From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  1 01:23:21 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 05:23:21 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure question
In-Reply-To: <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42886130FE69ED5014698D7680B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

On my pop top enclosure, there are privacy screens on the inside that roll down like the clear vinyl windows on the outside.  Those straps you are asking about are for securing the privacy screens in the up position.  I think the privacy screens were an extra cost option at one point and your pop top does not have them.  A good boat canvas shop should be able to make you a set and install them on your pop top.  We find them very useful, especially when staying overnight in a crowded marina.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2024, at 10:13?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?
> Hi All  On my pop top enclosure there are six plastic strips with button fasteners on the ends.  They hang down from the inside ceiling with two by each window and two more in front of the door.  With the door unzipped and rolled up the two strips loop around the door and snap into matching buttons on the top of the enclosure on the companion way hatch.  This keeps the door nicely out of the way, and is how I think these strips were designed to be used.  But what of strips by the windows?  What are they intended for?  At first glance I assumed they were to be used, like the door, to hold the windows open to allow the breeze into the cabin, but they are on the inside and the screens are sewn shut.  So what purpose do they serve?    Does anyone have this same configuration on their pop top enclosure?  What do you do with there strips?
> Thanks,Peter
> -------------- next part --------------
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  1 10:37:58 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 14:37:58 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure question
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42886130FE69ED5014698D7680B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886130FE69ED5014698D7680B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42888119F456D12A1D43987580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

If you are going to have a boat canvas shop install privacy screens on your pop top enclosure; then, you should also have them install Velcro strips on the outside vinyl windows.  The vinyl windows overlap the sides of the pop top enclosure.  The overlap functions as a sort of storm flap.  However, if you get a strong wind driven rain from the bow or the stern, the vinyl windows will lift up.  You will get a pretty big leak around the windows.  Since the port side window is right above my berth, this leak was a pretty big deal!  A few strips of Velcro on the edge of the windows will stop the leaks.  The Velcro will also stop wind driven flapping and make the pop top enclosure quieter.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2024, at 1:23?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Peter,
>
> On my pop top enclosure, there are privacy screens on the inside that roll down like the clear vinyl windows on the outside.  Those straps you are asking about are for securing the privacy screens in the up position.  I think the privacy screens were an extra cost option at one point and your pop top does not have them.  A good boat canvas shop should be able to make you a set and install them on your pop top.  We find them very useful, especially when staying overnight in a crowded marina.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 31, 2024, at 10:13?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Hi All  On my pop top enclosure there are six plastic strips with button fasteners on the ends.  They hang down from the inside ceiling with two by each window and two more in front of the door.  With the door unzipped and rolled up the two strips loop around the door and snap into matching buttons on the top of the enclosure on the companion way hatch.  This keeps the door nicely out of the way, and is how I think these strips were designed to be used.  But what of strips by the windows?  What are they intended for?  At first glance I assumed they were to be used, like the door, to hold the windows open to allow the breeze into the cabin, but they are on the inside and the screens are sewn shut.  So what purpose do they serve?    Does anyone have this same configuration on their pop top enclosure?  What do you do with there strips?
>> Thanks,Peter
>> -------------- next part --------------
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From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 12:00:15 2024
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 12:00:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject)
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>


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From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 12:21:50 2024
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 12:21:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd:
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 12:00?PM
Subject: UNKNOWN PART
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>


This one is for owners of the more vintage Rhodes 22. Mine is an 86.
This piece sits attached to the transum where the motor is raised and
lowered.  Also attached to this piece is one of Stan's small camcletes.
This could be a custom made piece from GBs. I am sure it is no longer made
because Stan moved on from this system.
Is there a name for this thing? It is used to keep the line for hauling the
motor from rubbing the gelcoat. The bar broke off and wint into the drink.
If it IS a part it may not be made for boats. If it has a name maybe I can
researsh it on line.  This may be something I have to build.
Any and all info. and or suggestions will be most helpful.

Thanks
Cary
S/V Whisper 86
Claytor Lake Va.
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  1 12:40:42 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 16:40:42 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd:
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42886862272F246F7F6F8F9B80B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Cary,

That part does not look familiar.  But, if you are trying to prevent the outboard motor uphaul from chafing on the gel coat, couldn?t you just install a few SS rubbing strakes? See West Marine (Taco Marine 3/4? X 8?, M/N: S11-170OP8, C/N: 110215, $20.99 Each + S&H).  That?s what rubbing strakes are for.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2024, at 12:22?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 12:00?PM
> Subject: UNKNOWN PART
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>
>
> This one is for owners of the more vintage Rhodes 22. Mine is an 86.
> This piece sits attached to the transum where the motor is raised and
> lowered.  Also attached to this piece is one of Stan's small camcletes.
> This could be a custom made piece from GBs. I am sure it is no longer made
> because Stan moved on from this system.
> Is there a name for this thing? It is used to keep the line for hauling the
> motor from rubbing the gelcoat. The bar broke off and wint into the drink.
> If it IS a part it may not be made for boats. If it has a name maybe I can
> researsh it on line.  This may be something I have to build.
> Any and all info. and or suggestions will be most helpful.
>
> Thanks
> Cary
> S/V Whisper 86
> Claytor Lake Va.
> -------------- next part --------------
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From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Aug  1 12:58:35 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 12:58:35 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd:
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001001dae434$0cd551f0$267ff5d0$@ebsmed.com>

Hi Cary,

I have the same 6:1 motor mount on my '91. The tubing is actually 1/2" copper pipe on mine. The cam cleat is used to secure the engine in the up position. It looks like nylon or maybe starboard, although it is mounted on the port side. The image should be at the bottom of this post.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Cary Tolbert
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 12:22 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd:

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 12:00?PM
Subject: UNKNOWN PART
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>


This one is for owners of the more vintage Rhodes 22. Mine is an 86.
This piece sits attached to the transum where the motor is raised and lowered.  Also attached to this piece is one of Stan's small camcletes.
This could be a custom made piece from GBs. I am sure it is no longer made because Stan moved on from this system.
Is there a name for this thing? It is used to keep the line for hauling the motor from rubbing the gelcoat. The bar broke off and wint into the drink.
If it IS a part it may not be made for boats. If it has a name maybe I can researsh it on line.  This may be something I have to build.
Any and all info. and or suggestions will be most helpful.

Thanks
Cary
S/V Whisper 86
Claytor Lake Va.
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From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Aug  1 13:14:15 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 13:14:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <001001dae434$0cd551f0$267ff5d0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>
 <001001dae434$0cd551f0$267ff5d0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <A8409FA4-1465-4A84-A603-E7536F393A1F@stottarchitecture.com>

Motor mount control line - 
Yep - same for me and my ?84 - Dadventure. 
It is Delrin (Starboard) 
It is there to keep the line from chafing on the rub rail and give  a better lead coming off the turning blocks under the FG housing. 
That Cam cleat is one of those British made ones. 
I have the spec and MFG somewhere and  have purchased them before, but I replace my block with a Harken  Micro cam cleat on a new piece off Delrin taht I bought from McMaster-Carr. 
Have fun 
Ric 
Dadventure 

 
 
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Aug 1, 2024, at 12:58 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Cary,
> 
> I have the same 6:1 motor mount on my '91. The tubing is actually 1/2" copper pipe on mine. The cam cleat is used to secure the engine in the up position. It looks like nylon or maybe starboard, although it is mounted on the port side. The image should be at the bottom of this post.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Cary Tolbert
> Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 12:22 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd:
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 12:00?PM
> Subject: UNKNOWN PART
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> 
> 
> This one is for owners of the more vintage Rhodes 22. Mine is an 86.
> This piece sits attached to the transum where the motor is raised and lowered.  Also attached to this piece is one of Stan's small camcletes.
> This could be a custom made piece from GBs. I am sure it is no longer made because Stan moved on from this system.
> Is there a name for this thing? It is used to keep the line for hauling the motor from rubbing the gelcoat. The bar broke off and wint into the drink.
> If it IS a part it may not be made for boats. If it has a name maybe I can researsh it on line.  This may be something I have to build.
> Any and all info. and or suggestions will be most helpful.
> 
> Thanks
> Cary
> S/V Whisper 86
> Claytor Lake Va.
> -------------- next part --------------
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  1 14:01:15 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 18:01:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure question
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42888119F456D12A1D43987580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886130FE69ED5014698D7680B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888119F456D12A1D43987580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <349826601.2177818.1722535275313@mail.yahoo.com>

 Thanks Roger,? ?My windows already have Velcro all the way around.
Peter?


    On Thursday, August 1, 2024 at 10:38:01 AM EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:  
 
 Hi Peter,

If you are going to have a boat canvas shop install privacy screens on your pop top enclosure; then, you should also have them install Velcro strips on the outside vinyl windows.? The vinyl windows overlap the sides of the pop top enclosure.? The overlap functions as a sort of storm flap.? However, if you get a strong wind driven rain from the bow or the stern, the vinyl windows will lift up.? You will get a pretty big leak around the windows.? Since the port side window is right above my berth, this leak was a pretty big deal!? A few strips of Velcro on the edge of the windows will stop the leaks.? The Velcro will also stop wind driven flapping and make the pop top enclosure quieter.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2024, at 1:23?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Peter,
>
> On my pop top enclosure, there are privacy screens on the inside that roll down like the clear vinyl windows on the outside.? Those straps you are asking about are for securing the privacy screens in the up position.? I think the privacy screens were an extra cost option at one point and your pop top does not have them.? A good boat canvas shop should be able to make you a set and install them on your pop top.? We find them very useful, especially when staying overnight in a crowded marina.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 31, 2024, at 10:13?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Hi All? On my pop top enclosure there are six plastic strips with button fasteners on the ends.? They hang down from the inside ceiling with two by each window and two more in front of the door.? With the door unzipped and rolled up the two strips loop around the door and snap into matching buttons on the top of the enclosure on the companion way hatch.? This keeps the door nicely out of the way, and is how I think these strips were designed to be used.? But what of strips by the windows?? What are they intended for?? At first glance I assumed they were to be used, like the door, to hold the windows open to allow the breeze into the cabin, but they are on the inside and the screens are sewn shut.? So what purpose do they serve?? ? Does anyone have this same configuration on their pop top enclosure?? What do you do with there strips?
>> Thanks,Peter
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: door rolled-up pop top.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 150361 bytes
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From Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  1 14:22:35 2024
From: Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 18:22:35 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure question
In-Reply-To: <349826601.2177818.1722535275313@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886130FE69ED5014698D7680B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888119F456D12A1D43987580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <349826601.2177818.1722535275313@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42882C5ABFB6C0E961FB8EB580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

My clear vinyl side windows have straps and snaps to hold them in a rolled up state.  My front windows don?t open.  The clear vinyl front windows are fixed.  However, they do have interior privacy screens with straps and snaps to hold them open.  I can unzip the zipper in the front of the pop top enclosure canvas to allow for some flow thru ventilation.  Of course, doing that compromises the bug proof integrity of the pop top enclosure.  If I could change anything about the pop top enclosure, I would make the front windows like the side windows with screens, roll up clear vinyl windows, and roll up interior privacy screens.

Yes, I always thought the interior privacy screens were a strange thing to make optional.  If you?ve ever cruised overnight on the boat, you won?t consider them optional.  In a crowded marina, with bigger boats docked all around and looking down into your cabin, you?ll feel like you?re in a fish bowl without them!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978.  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 1, 2024, at 2:01?PM, peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com> wrote:

?
Thanks Roger,
   My windows already have Velcro all the way around.

Peter



On Thursday, August 1, 2024 at 10:38:01 AM EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:


Hi Peter,

If you are going to have a boat canvas shop install privacy screens on your pop top enclosure; then, you should also have them install Velcro strips on the outside vinyl windows.  The vinyl windows overlap the sides of the pop top enclosure.  The overlap functions as a sort of storm flap.  However, if you get a strong wind driven rain from the bow or the stern, the vinyl windows will lift up.  You will get a pretty big leak around the windows.  Since the port side window is right above my berth, this leak was a pretty big deal!  A few strips of Velcro on the edge of the windows will stop the leaks.  The Velcro will also stop wind driven flapping and make the pop top enclosure quieter.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2024, at 1:23?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com<mailto:roger_pihlaja at msn.com>> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Peter,
>
> On my pop top enclosure, there are privacy screens on the inside that roll down like the clear vinyl windows on the outside.  Those straps you are asking about are for securing the privacy screens in the up position.  I think the privacy screens were an extra cost option at one point and your pop top does not have them.  A good boat canvas shop should be able to make you a set and install them on your pop top.  We find them very useful, especially when staying overnight in a crowded marina.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 31, 2024, at 10:13?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Hi All  On my pop top enclosure there are six plastic strips with button fasteners on the ends.  They hang down from the inside ceiling with two by each window and two more in front of the door.  With the door unzipped and rolled up the two strips loop around the door and snap into matching buttons on the top of the enclosure on the companion way hatch.  This keeps the door nicely out of the way, and is how I think these strips were designed to be used.  But what of strips by the windows?  What are they intended for?  At first glance I assumed they were to be used, like the door, to hold the windows open to allow the breeze into the cabin, but they are on the inside and the screens are sewn shut.  So what purpose do they serve?    Does anyone have this same configuration on their pop top enclosure?  What do you do with there strips?
>> Thanks,Peter
>> -------------- next part --------------
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 16:07:51 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 16:07:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01c901dae44e$7d2e2890$778a79b0$@gmail.com>

Thank you Roger and Todd!  I am always grateful for the support of my fellow
Rhodies--This list has been a wonderful "value add" to my Rhodes 22.

Mike McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)
Allatoona Lake
Acworth, GA



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd
Tavares
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:14 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Michael,

Upon reviewing old photos, I replaced mine in the same manner as Slim,
going on Stan's advice.
I am attaching pics which Slim sent me, as well as a quick sketch showing
the construction layout of the cabin roof and why removing the chainplate
would be difficult. But at least you can see what it looks like inside.

Todd T

On Tue, Jul 30, 2024, 11:45 AM Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 16:10:43 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 16:10:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <A8409FA4-1465-4A84-A603-E7536F393A1F@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <CAPQvPRpS1vmkNCQc=9f+J+WZ6N5wnyTtFhWjnz518yWjeZRcgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPQvPRomF=Gf1U9WeTveoNi1GAHki83X2H2UR3NfTv3-69V0_g@mail.gmail.com>
 <001001dae434$0cd551f0$267ff5d0$@ebsmed.com>
 <A8409FA4-1465-4A84-A603-E7536F393A1F@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+BNP5aKwC8OVsVj2eHEqFNik_WY3c2=R6mBZUd7pYnZsg@mail.gmail.com>

I have one from 1989 that is about to fall apart too.  I might try a piece
of PVC plywood that I have from lowes that is much much cheaper.
McMasterCarr indicates that Delrin is not for outdoor use but their HDPE
they say is aka Starboard and is OK for outdoors of course.  When I visited
Stan around 2008-9 I stayed at the "Hilton" and laying on the coffee table
was a manufacturing trade magazine that had an article about Stan selecting
Torlon for use in his sailboat furling system bearings.  My Mast slider
that suffered similar weathering on the outside seemed to have the same
material inside and outside, so maybe he was using torlon for a while.  It
is crazy expensive and also not for outdoors (but it is "slippery")

Patrick

On Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 1:20?PM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:

> Motor mount control line -
> Yep - same for me and my ?84 - Dadventure.
> It is Delrin (Starboard)
> It is there to keep the line from chafing on the rub rail and give  a
> better lead coming off the turning blocks under the FG housing.
> That Cam cleat is one of those British made ones.
> I have the spec and MFG somewhere and  have purchased them before, but I
> replace my block with a Harken  Micro cam cleat on a new piece off Delrin
> taht I bought from McMaster-Carr.
> Have fun
> Ric
> Dadventure
>
>
>
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
>
>
>
> > On Aug 1, 2024, at 12:58 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Cary,
> >
> > I have the same 6:1 motor mount on my '91. The tubing is actually 1/2"
> copper pipe on mine. The cam cleat is used to secure the engine in the up
> position. It looks like nylon or maybe starboard, although it is mounted on
> the port side. The image should be at the bottom of this post.
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> > I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Cary Tolbert
> > Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 12:22 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd:
> >
> > ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> > From: Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> > Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 12:00?PM
> > Subject: UNKNOWN PART
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >
> >
> > This one is for owners of the more vintage Rhodes 22. Mine is an 86.
> > This piece sits attached to the transum where the motor is raised and
> lowered.  Also attached to this piece is one of Stan's small camcletes.
> > This could be a custom made piece from GBs. I am sure it is no longer
> made because Stan moved on from this system.
> > Is there a name for this thing? It is used to keep the line for hauling
> the motor from rubbing the gelcoat. The bar broke off and wint into the
> drink.
> > If it IS a part it may not be made for boats. If it has a name maybe I
> can researsh it on line.  This may be something I have to build.
> > Any and all info. and or suggestions will be most helpful.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Cary
> > S/V Whisper 86
> > Claytor Lake Va.
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> > Size: 2421342 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240801/6c57f4fe/attachment.jpg
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
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> >
>
>

From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 16:17:02 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 16:17:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <01cd01dae44f$c5d74620$5185d260$@gmail.com>

Thank you Graham!

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Graham
Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
large hole.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi Rhodies,

I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.

It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.

Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?

Thank you!

Mike McKay
S/V Liber 2006/2108
Allatoona Lake, GA




Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 16:49:24 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 16:49:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01db01dae454$4ad77170$e0865450$@gmail.com>

Todd, the picture you attached to your previous email came through as a
".bin" file, which I can't open.  Can you resend that as a .jpg?  

Did you leave the old chainplates in place?

Thanks again,

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd
Tavares
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:14 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Michael,

Upon reviewing old photos, I replaced mine in the same manner as Slim,
going on Stan's advice.
I am attaching pics which Slim sent me, as well as a quick sketch showing
the construction layout of the cabin roof and why removing the chainplate
would be difficult. But at least you can see what it looks like inside.

Todd T

On Tue, Jul 30, 2024, 11:45 AM Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Aug  1 17:38:36 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 17:38:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <01db01dae454$4ad77170$e0865450$@gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
 <01db01dae454$4ad77170$e0865450$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003b01dae45b$2b2b0f10$81812d30$@ebsmed.com>

It was a high resolution (HEIC) file. Here it is as a .jpg (at bottom of
post).

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I'd rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 4:49 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Todd, the picture you attached to your previous email came through as a
".bin" file, which I can't open.  Can you resend that as a .jpg?  

Did you leave the old chainplates in place?

Thanks again,

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd
Tavares
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:14 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Michael,

Upon reviewing old photos, I replaced mine in the same manner as Slim, going
on Stan's advice.
I am attaching pics which Slim sent me, as well as a quick sketch showing
the construction layout of the cabin roof and why removing the chainplate
would be difficult. But at least you can see what it looks like inside.

Todd T

On Tue, Jul 30, 2024, 11:45 AM Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer 
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the 
> inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  1 18:15:30 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2024 18:15:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <003b01dae45b$2b2b0f10$81812d30$@ebsmed.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
 <01db01dae454$4ad77170$e0865450$@gmail.com>
 <003b01dae45b$2b2b0f10$81812d30$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CACo3U6OGLwoA43nGcA9aLAPAOs7O22BOC-_hh=txAb=1GvV-BQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Mike.

Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)


On Thu, Aug 1, 2024 at 5:45?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> It was a high resolution (HEIC) file. Here it is as a .jpg (at bottom of
> post).
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I'd rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 4:49 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Todd, the picture you attached to your previous email came through as a
> ".bin" file, which I can't open.  Can you resend that as a .jpg?
>
> Did you leave the old chainplates in place?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd
> Tavares
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 5:14 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Michael,
>
> Upon reviewing old photos, I replaced mine in the same manner as Slim,
> going
> on Stan's advice.
> I am attaching pics which Slim sent me, as well as a quick sketch showing
> the construction layout of the cabin roof and why removing the chainplate
> would be difficult. But at least you can see what it looks like inside.
>
> Todd T
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024, 11:45 AM Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Rhodies,
> >
> > I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >
> > It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > inside.
> >
> > Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >
> > Thank you!
> >
> > Mike McKay
> > S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > Allatoona Lake, GA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael McKay
> > (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> Size: 78768 bytes
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> <
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> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
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> <
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> >
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> >
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  2 00:21:12 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 04:21:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure question
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42882C5ABFB6C0E961FB8EB580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1852078356.1956611.1722478389923@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886130FE69ED5014698D7680B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888119F456D12A1D43987580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <349826601.2177818.1722535275313@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42882C5ABFB6C0E961FB8EB580B22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2001069324.2364538.1722572472823@mail.yahoo.com>

 I haven't yet cruised in my Rhodes, but have done some on? larger boats.? I can easily imagine the fish bowl feeling you describe.? I'll talk to my Taylor about privacy screens.? I may try to find an automotive pop up windshield sun blocker for the big front window and have the sides sewn on.? Might Be easier and cheaper.
Thanks for your help?Peter?
    On Thursday, August 1, 2024 at 02:22:38 PM EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:  
 
 Peter,
My clear vinyl side windows have straps and snaps to hold them in a rolled up state. ?My front windows don?t open. ?The clear vinyl front windows are fixed. ?However, they do have interior privacy screens with straps and snaps to hold them open. ?I can unzip the zipper in the front of the pop top enclosure canvas to allow for some flow thru ventilation. ?Of course, doing that compromises the bug proof integrity of the pop top enclosure. ?If I could change anything about the pop top enclosure, I would make the front windows like the side windows with screens, roll up clear vinyl windows, and roll up interior privacy screens.
Yes, I always thought the interior privacy screens were a strange thing to make optional. ?If you?ve ever cruised overnight on the boat, you won?t consider them optional. ?In a crowded marina, with bigger boats docked all around and looking down into your cabin, you?ll feel like you?re in a fish bowl without them!
Roger Pihlaja?S/V Dynamic Equilibrium?1978. ?Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 1, 2024, at 2:01?PM, peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com> wrote:



?Thanks Roger,? ?My windows already have Velcro all the way around.
Peter?


On Thursday, August 1, 2024 at 10:38:01 AM EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

Hi Peter,

If you are going to have a boat canvas shop install privacy screens on your pop top enclosure; then, you should also have them install Velcro strips on the outside vinyl windows.? The vinyl windows overlap the sides of the pop top enclosure.? The overlap functions as a sort of storm flap.? However, if you get a strong wind driven rain from the bow or the stern, the vinyl windows will lift up.? You will get a pretty big leak around the windows.? Since the port side window is right above my berth, this leak was a pretty big deal!? A few strips of Velcro on the edge of the windows will stop the leaks.? The Velcro will also stop wind driven flapping and make the pop top enclosure quieter.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2024, at 1:23?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Peter,
>
> On my pop top enclosure, there are privacy screens on the inside that roll down like the clear vinyl windows on the outside.? Those straps you are asking about are for securing the privacy screens in the up position.? I think the privacy screens were an extra cost option at one point and your pop top does not have them.? A good boat canvas shop should be able to make you a set and install them on your pop top.? We find them very useful, especially when staying overnight in a crowded marina.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 31, 2024, at 10:13?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Hi All? On my pop top enclosure there are six plastic strips with button fasteners on the ends.? They hang down from the inside ceiling with two by each window and two more in front of the door.? With the door unzipped and rolled up the two strips loop around the door and snap into matching buttons on the top of the enclosure on the companion way hatch.? This keeps the door nicely out of the way, and is how I think these strips were designed to be used.? But what of strips by the windows?? What are they intended for?? At first glance I assumed they were to be used, like the door, to hold the windows open to allow the breeze into the cabin, but they are on the inside and the screens are sewn shut.? So what purpose do they serve?? ? Does anyone have this same configuration on their pop top enclosure?? What do you do with there strips?
>> Thanks,Peter
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From boon_doggy at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  2 08:25:36 2024
From: boon_doggy at yahoo.com (Mike)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 12:25:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts Questions
References: <481728414.2422495.1722601536536.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <481728414.2422495.1722601536536@mail.yahoo.com>

Having gotten all of the parts out of (a very long) storage on boat and set to work to put it all back together, there's a few things that have been damaged over the years. I need a new IMF outhaul car, tiller handle, and solar panels to start.I saw Charles is handling GB's parts stock, but didn't see a way to get in touch. The panels are very, very old and I don't know if that model is even manufactured anymore. The tiller handle manufacturer's stamp is illegible, so that's no help (and I only saw a glass handle on the Parts site). Getting a shop to mill a new car is complicated by the fact that forward attach.point is sheared off.Any help on sourcing these would be appreciated as I've been given a deadline to get the boat in the water or forced to sale it by my better half.
Mike Blaggboon_doggy at yahoo.com?209-872-2321 (text before call)

From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 12:40:56 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 12:40:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>

Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open up
the cabin liner?

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
PIHLAJA
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi All,

One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham
Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
large hole.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi Rhodies,

I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.

It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.

Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?

Thank you!

Mike McKay
S/V Liber 2006/2108
Allatoona Lake, GA




Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone
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.jpe>>


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Aug  2 12:46:00 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 16:46:00 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts Questions
In-Reply-To: <481728414.2422495.1722601536536@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <481728414.2422495.1722601536536.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <481728414.2422495.1722601536536@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288B8B1588DCBC80AF8DBDC80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Mike,

I'm not sure what you mean by "tiller handle"?  The tiller is the thing the helmsman hangs onto in order to operate the rudder when he is sitting down in the cockpit.   Assuming you want a wooden replacement tiller vs the GBI fiberglass tiller, try West Marine (M/N: 6841308, WMTIL#: 2200, Price: $164.99 + S&H).  This tiller is intended for a Catalina 22 or Hunter 25.  But, it will work just fine on your Rhodes 22.  You will have to drill a couple of holes in order to bolt this tiller onto the brackets on top of your rudder.

If, by "tiller handle", you meant the thing the helmsman hangs onto in order operate the rudder when he is sitting up on the gunnel; then, the proper term is "tiller extension".  Try West Marine Forespar Twist-Lock (Size Small, 19"-32", C/N: 111922, FORSP#: 104016, Price: $99.99 + S&H).

Hopefully, one of these items is what you need.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Mike via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 8:25 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts Questions

Having gotten all of the parts out of (a very long) storage on boat and set to work to put it all back together, there's a few things that have been damaged over the years. I need a new IMF outhaul car, tiller handle, and solar panels to start.I saw Charles is handling GB's parts stock, but didn't see a way to get in touch. The panels are very, very old and I don't know if that model is even manufactured anymore. The tiller handle manufacturer's stamp is illegible, so that's no help (and I only saw a glass handle on the Parts site). Getting a shop to mill a new car is complicated by the fact that forward attach.point is sheared off.Any help on sourcing these would be appreciated as I've been given a deadline to get the boat in the water or forced to sale it by my better half.
Mike Blaggboon_doggy at yahoo.com 209-872-2321 (text before call)

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Aug  2 12:58:30 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 16:58:30 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy, it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4 inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine screws + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But, you will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you want.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

Roger Pihlaja

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open up
the cabin liner?

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
PIHLAJA
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi All,

One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham
Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
large hole.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi Rhodies,

I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.

It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.

Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?

Thank you!

Mike McKay
S/V Liber 2006/2108
Allatoona Lake, GA




Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone
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hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
.jpe>>


From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 16:45:47 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 16:45:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>

Roger and Todd,

Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding anything.  

The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood inside
the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's case,
he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need to
do that also, or did you use a different approach?  

In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.  Was
there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?

A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing plate.
Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as an
inspection port.

Is the above description correct?  

Thanks,

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
PIHLAJA
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy,
it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine screws
+ fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson
inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But, you
will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you
want.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

Roger Pihlaja

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open up
the cabin liner?

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
PIHLAJA
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi All,

One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham
Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
large hole.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi Rhodies,

I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.

It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.

Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?

Thank you!

Mike McKay
S/V Liber 2006/2108
Allatoona Lake, GA




Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone
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.jpe>>



From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Aug  2 16:53:50 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 20:53:50 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,

If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the Beckson inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!   From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old chain plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar stock and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.  The new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
>
> ?Roger and Todd,
>
> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding anything.
>
> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood inside
> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's case,
> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need to
> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>
> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.  Was
> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>
> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing plate.
> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as an
> inspection port.
>
> Is the above description correct?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy,
> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine screws
> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson
> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But, you
> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you
> want.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Roger Pihlaja
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open up
> the cabin liner?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi All,
>
> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham
> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
> large hole.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 89771 bytes
> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> URL:
> <http://rhodes22.or/
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
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> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<http://r
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> .jpe>>
>
>

From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 17:02:58 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:02:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>

Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?

Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)


On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the Beckson
> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
>  From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old chain
> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar stock
> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.  The
> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger and Todd,
> >
> > Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
> > the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> anything.
> >
> > The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> > the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> > chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> case,
> > he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need
> to
> > do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >
> > In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> > there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >
> > A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> > backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
> > cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> > Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> > inspection port.
> >
> > Is the above description correct?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> ROGER
> > PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> > liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
> > the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> > goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
> > outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> peasy,
> > it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
> > inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> screws
> > + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> > inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
> you
> > will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> > want.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> open up
> > the cabin liner?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> ROGER
> > PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> > the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> > lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> > plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> > Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> > inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> > the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> > trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> > especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> > upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Graham
> > Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> > a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> > picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section
> of
> > the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create
> a
> > large hole.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Rhodes 22
> > Agile, 1976
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Hi Rhodies,
> >
> > I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >
> > It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
> >
> > Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >
> > Thank you!
> >
> > Mike McKay
> > S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > Allatoona Lake, GA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael McKay
> > (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 89771 bytes
> > Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > URL:
> > <http://rhodes22.or/
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> http://r
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > .jpe>>
> >
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Aug  2 17:30:04 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 21:30:04 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,

After you free the chainplate from the plywood, you will be able to pull it out backwards thru the inspection hole.  If the part above the roof is so bent that you can?t straighten it enough to fit thru the hole; then, cut it off.
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:03?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?
>
> Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>
>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the Beckson
>> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
>> From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old chain
>> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar stock
>> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.  The
>> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Roger and Todd,
>>>
>>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
>>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
>> anything.
>>>
>>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
>> inside
>>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
>>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
>> case,
>>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
>>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need
>> to
>>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>>>
>>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
>> Was
>>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>>>
>>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
>>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
>>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
>>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
>> plate.
>>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
>> an
>>> inspection port.
>>>
>>> Is the above description correct?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> ROGER
>>> PIHLAJA
>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
>>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
>>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
>>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
>>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
>>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
>> peasy,
>>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
>>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
>> screws
>>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
>> Beckson
>>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
>> you
>>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
>> you
>>> want.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
>> open up
>>> the cabin liner?
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> ROGER
>>> PIHLAJA
>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
>> were
>>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
>>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
>> the
>>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
>>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
>>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
>>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
>>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
>>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
>> component,
>>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
>>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Graham
>>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>> with
>>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
>>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section
>> of
>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create
>> a
>>> large hole.
>>>
>>>
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Rhodes 22
>>> Agile, 1976
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> Hi Rhodies,
>>>
>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>>
>>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
>> inside.
>>>
>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>> Mike McKay
>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael McKay
>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 89771 bytes
>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>>> URL:
>>> <http://rhodes22.or/
>>>
>> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
>>>
>> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
>>>
>> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
>>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
>>>
>> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>>>
>> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>>>
>> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
>>>
>> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
>>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
>> http://r
>>>
>> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
>>> .jpe>>
>>>
>>>
>>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 17:31:27 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:31:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNnxHo7QXXe=B8r4XoWbrPoQetL8BmekNHsxXzbJi-FWQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,


You are going to have to cut a rectangular hole in the side wall of the
inner cabin liner to mount your reinforcing plate, and which you will bolt
the new chainplate tang to.

You can use a die grinder and a cut-off wheel to cut the old chainplate in
half. If you have a die grinder, you can find an arbor/mandrel and 3"
cutting wheels at an auto parts store or home improvement store..a Dremmel
tool won't have a large enough diameter cutting wheel. My local Advanced
Auto had a set which had the mandrel and three- 3" cut off wheels for less
than $20.
Then cut the chain just inboard of the bend. Pull the tab down from inside.
Go slow annd do not push too hard. Wear a face shield and respirator
See my crude sketch attached.

Todd T.



On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 1:30 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open
> up
> the cabin liner?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi All,
>
> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Graham
> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
> large hole.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 89771 bytes
> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> URL:
> <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or
>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj>
>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> http://r
>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> .jpe>>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 17:31:56 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:31:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACo3U6OXQE0fcvqQp4mv8nP-=UXZgMCPm12JFduc8XtWjkP77g@mail.gmail.com>

I thought the screw and plywood are overhead-is the screw accessible?

Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)


On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:30?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> After you free the chainplate from the plywood, you will be able to pull
> it out backwards thru the inspection hole.  If the part above the roof is
> so bent that you can?t straighten it enough to fit thru the hole; then, cut
> it off.
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:03?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?
> >
> > Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mike,
> >>
> >> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the
> Beckson
> >> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
> >> From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old
> chain
> >> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar
> stock
> >> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.
> The
> >> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Roger and Todd,
> >>>
> >>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>>
> >>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> >> inside
> >>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> >>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> >> case,
> >>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need
> >> to
> >>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>>
> >>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> >> Was
> >>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>>
> >>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> >> plate.
> >>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> >> an
> >>> inspection port.
> >>>
> >>> Is the above description correct?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> >>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> >> peasy,
> >>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all 4
> >>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> >> Beckson
> >>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> >> you
> >>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> >> you
> >>> want.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> >> open up
> >>> the cabin liner?
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi All,
> >>>
> >>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were
> >>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> >> the
> >>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> >>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> >> component,
> >>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with
> >>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
> a
> >>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section
> >> of
> >>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create
> >> a
> >>> large hole.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Graham Stewart
> >>> Rhodes 22
> >>> Agile, 1976
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>>
> >>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>>
> >>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you!
> >>>
> >>> Mike McKay
> >>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >>> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Michael McKay
> >>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>> Size: 89771 bytes
> >>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> URL:
> >>> <http://rhodes22.or/
> >>>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >>>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >>> .jpe>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Aug  2 17:38:16 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 21:38:16 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CACo3U6OXQE0fcvqQp4mv8nP-=UXZgMCPm12JFduc8XtWjkP77g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6OXQE0fcvqQp4mv8nP-=UXZgMCPm12JFduc8XtWjkP77g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288D75C0D8685C07EB96F2E80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Once you cut the hole for the inspection port, you will be able to access everything you need to get at to remove the chain plate.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:32?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?I thought the screw and plywood are overhead-is the screw accessible?
>
> Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>
>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:30?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> After you free the chainplate from the plywood, you will be able to pull
>> it out backwards thru the inspection hole.  If the part above the roof is
>> so bent that you can?t straighten it enough to fit thru the hole; then, cut
>> it off.
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:03?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?
>>>
>>> Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Mike,
>>>>
>>>> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the
>> Beckson
>>>> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
>>>> From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old
>> chain
>>>> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar
>> stock
>>>> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.
>> The
>>>> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
>>>>
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> ?Roger and Todd,
>>>>>
>>>>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
>> understand
>>>>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
>>>> anything.
>>>>>
>>>>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
>>>> inside
>>>>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
>> old
>>>>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
>>>> case,
>>>>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
>>>>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
>> need
>>>> to
>>>>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>>>>>
>>>>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
>>>> Was
>>>>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>>>>>
>>>>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
>>>>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
>>>>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
>> the
>>>>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
>>>> plate.
>>>>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
>>>> an
>>>>> inspection port.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is the above description correct?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>>> ROGER
>>>>> PIHLAJA
>>>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>>>
>>>>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
>>>>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
>> Remove
>>>>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
>>>>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
>> chainplate
>>>>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
>> the
>>>>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
>>>> peasy,
>>>>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
>> all 4
>>>>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
>>>> screws
>>>>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
>>>> Beckson
>>>>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
>> But,
>>>> you
>>>>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
>>>> you
>>>>> want.
>>>>>
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>
>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>>>
>>>>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
>>>> open up
>>>>> the cabin liner?
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>>> ROGER
>>>>> PIHLAJA
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi All,
>>>>>
>>>>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
>>>> were
>>>>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
>>>>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
>>>> the
>>>>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
>>>>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
>> Defender
>>>>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
>> these
>>>>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
>> thru
>>>>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
>> not
>>>>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
>>>> component,
>>>>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
>> this
>>>>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> Graham
>>>>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>>>
>>>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>>>> with
>>>>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
>> a
>>>>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>>>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
>> section
>>>> of
>>>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
>> create
>>>> a
>>>>> large hole.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>> Rhodes 22
>>>>> Agile, 1976
>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Rhodies,
>>>>>
>>>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>>>>
>>>>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>>>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
>>>> inside.
>>>>>
>>>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you!
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike McKay
>>>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>>>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Michael McKay
>>>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>>> Size: 89771 bytes
>>>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>>>>> URL:
>>>>> <http://rhodes22.or/
>>>>>
>>>>
>> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
>>>>>
>>>>
>> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
>>>>>
>>>>
>> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
>>>>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
>>>>>
>>>>
>> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>>>>>
>>>>
>> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>>>>>
>>>>
>> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
>>>>>
>>>>
>> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
>>>>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
>>>> http://r
>>>>>
>>>>
>> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
>>>>> .jpe>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 17:39:08 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:39:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMMqDxHk5_DHX1e4yvr=59fnke_pyf54KO5g-V0dNnN9hw@mail.gmail.com>

Let me try this again.

This seems like the least destructive method. I wish I thought about it
first.








On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 1:30 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open
> up
> the cabin liner?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi All,
>
> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Graham
> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
> large hole.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 89771 bytes
> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> URL:
> <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or
>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj>
>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> http://r
>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> .jpe>>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Aug  2 21:02:48 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 21:02:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CACo3U6OGLwoA43nGcA9aLAPAOs7O22BOC-_hh=txAb=1GvV-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
 <01db01dae454$4ad77170$e0865450$@gmail.com>
 <003b01dae45b$2b2b0f10$81812d30$@ebsmed.com>
 <CACo3U6OGLwoA43nGcA9aLAPAOs7O22BOC-_hh=txAb=1GvV-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <15F7CFEB-B881-4A30-8875-B9406D277100@sunnybeeches.com>

I think there has been some bad information introduced into this thread that has lead Mike astray.

There was a hand drawn diagram that indicated that the chainplates for the lower shrouds are embedded in the cabin top.  Though I have not (yet) had to replace my lower shroud chainplates, I can nonetheless say with a great deal of confidence that this notion is incorrect.  The lower shroud chainplates are embedded in the cabin side walls.

I hope that clarifies things.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  2 22:57:36 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2024 22:57:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <15F7CFEB-B881-4A30-8875-B9406D277100@sunnybeeches.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNSTajbMOv4KLZWHC+Wkp1Ew++ORXWe+93syLUxq6mdYw@mail.gmail.com>
 <01db01dae454$4ad77170$e0865450$@gmail.com>
 <003b01dae45b$2b2b0f10$81812d30$@ebsmed.com>
 <CACo3U6OGLwoA43nGcA9aLAPAOs7O22BOC-_hh=txAb=1GvV-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <15F7CFEB-B881-4A30-8875-B9406D277100@sunnybeeches.com>
Message-ID: <CACo3U6N0jBPQm4y1BHpieZVS0JqHYCGNx=SbVD_DRmQeH09P6A@mail.gmail.com>

Peter?you are the guru. I suppose it?s possible that detail changed over
the years. I will document my findings carefully!  Thanks.

Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)


On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 9:10?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> I think there has been some bad information introduced into this thread
> that has lead Mike astray.
>
> There was a hand drawn diagram that indicated that the chainplates for the
> lower shrouds are embedded in the cabin top.  Though I have not (yet) had
> to replace my lower shroud chainplates, I can nonetheless say with a great
> deal of confidence that this notion is incorrect.  The lower shroud
> chainplates are embedded in the cabin side walls.
>
> I hope that clarifies things.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  3 10:37:32 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 10:37:32 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMOsFVX9TNxv6BEuLS8N4JCOrVJ-c-3KiqVvJK1KfG4VEw@mail.gmail.com>

Roger,
I wish I had asked you before I attempted replacing mine.

In my frustration to pull the bent tangs out, it never occurred to me to
simply cut off the top part that sticks out above.

Your explanation is Rhodes list gold.


Todd T.

On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 8:15 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> After you free the chainplate from the plywood, you will be able to pull
> it out backwards thru the inspection hole.  If the part above the roof is
> so bent that you can?t straighten it enough to fit thru the hole; then, cut
> it off.
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:03?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?
> >
> > Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mike,
> >>
> >> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the
> Beckson
> >> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
> >> From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old
> chain
> >> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar
> stock
> >> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.
> The
> >> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Roger and Todd,
> >>>
> >>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>>
> >>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> >> inside
> >>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> >>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> >> case,
> >>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need
> >> to
> >>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>>
> >>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> >> Was
> >>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>>
> >>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> >> plate.
> >>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> >> an
> >>> inspection port.
> >>>
> >>> Is the above description correct?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> >>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> >> peasy,
> >>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all 4
> >>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> >> Beckson
> >>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> >> you
> >>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> >> you
> >>> want.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> >> open up
> >>> the cabin liner?
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi All,
> >>>
> >>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were
> >>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> >> the
> >>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> >>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> >> component,
> >>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with
> >>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
> a
> >>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section
> >> of
> >>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create
> >> a
> >>> large hole.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Graham Stewart
> >>> Rhodes 22
> >>> Agile, 1976
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>>
> >>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>>
> >>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you!
> >>>
> >>> Mike McKay
> >>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >>> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Michael McKay
> >>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>> Size: 89771 bytes
> >>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> URL:
> >>> <http://rhodes22.or/
> >>>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >>>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >>> .jpe>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
>

From koatimundi100 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  3 13:51:31 2024
From: koatimundi100 at gmail.com (peter klappert)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 13:51:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest,
	Vol 4576), Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <CAEZbNGBRQ+jL0XbCksraLtA2c=SboJTQ0H+m+aBeSnS32B4LgQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2283.1722365923.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
 <CAEZbNGBRQ+jL0XbCksraLtA2c=SboJTQ0H+m+aBeSnS32B4LgQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEZbNGCDPE3aegBn-7wRv4BcDM233cA0r0y1YUcrSMC4VuqNVw@mail.gmail.com>

I sent this at the end of July but haven?t seen it. In case I screwed up
when sending (I frequently screw up things digital), here it is again .

On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 4:25?PM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
wrote:

>
> I was the first?possibly the only?Rhodie who substituted an Airhead
> composting head for the marine toilet and holding tank. (My R22 is kept on
> a lift at my dock: I didn?t want to have to find a pump out station.) It
> has a vent tube with a small computer fan, tho I doubt that affords much
> head ventilation.
>       But I also had Stan install a solar fan (rechargeable batteries) in
> the deck over the v-berth, way up in the bow. It pushes a great deal of air
> through the whole cabin. With the sliding panel between the v-berth and
> head pushed open (ie to port) it keeps the head well-ventilated and
>
indeed, it ventilates the whole cabin).
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *>>>>>>>>>  *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*
>
> *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:58?PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org>
> wrote:
>
>> Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
>>         rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>         http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>         rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>         rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>    1. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
>>    2. Re: Head ventilation (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>>    3. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Michael McKay)
>>    4. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
>>    5. Re: Boom Rigging Question (PBR)
>>    6. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Mike)
>>    7. Re: Head ventilation (Mary Lou Troy)
>>    8. Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Michael McKay)
>>    9. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Todd Tavares)
>>   10. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Graham Stewart)
>>   11. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>>   12. Re: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Frank Goldsmith)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 18:05:22 -0400
>> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>> Message-ID: <216AD1F0-4896-4812-9618-48135BA84B45 at verizon.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: image0.jpeg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 110591 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>> >
>> -------------- next part --------------
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>> rebuilt the
>> > interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>> bilge
>> > pumps. More headroom would be nice
>> >
>> >> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <Mweisner at ebsmed.com
>> >
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> >> Nissequogue River, NY
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>> >>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
>> want
>> >> to
>> >>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some stuff
>> >> I'm
>> >>> really jealous of!
>> >>>
>> >>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but they're
>> all
>> >>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a hatch
>> >>> over
>> >>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches that
>> >> are
>> >>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>> worried
>> >>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>> >>>
>> >>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can be
>> >>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
>> >> better
>> >>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give you
>> some
>> >>> headroom! Thanks!
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 22:23:10 +0000
>> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>> Message-ID:
>>         <
>> MN2PR10MB42886A2EAACCF5F9D2A2AC1C80B62 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
>> >
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would like
>> to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
>> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together represent a
>> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
>> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be cut
>> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce the
>> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in any
>> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this issue
>> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I advise
>> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix if
>> you weaken it too much.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> >
>> > ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> > Name: image0.jpeg
>> > Type: image/jpeg
>> > Size: 110591 bytes
>> > Desc: not available
>> > URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>> >
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>> rebuilt the
>> >> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>> bilge
>> >> pumps. More headroom would be nice
>> >>
>> >>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
>> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>> >>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>> >>>
>> >>> Mike
>> >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> >>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>> >>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
>> want
>> >>> to
>> >>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>> stuff
>> >>> I'm
>> >>>> really jealous of!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but they're
>> all
>> >>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>> hatch
>> >>>> over
>> >>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
>> that
>> >>> are
>> >>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>> worried
>> >>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can be
>> >>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
>> >>> better
>> >>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give you
>> some
>> >>>> headroom! Thanks!
>> >>>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 23:11:15 -0400
>> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>> Message-ID: <3E65320C-991D-4057-B001-D79B5C544C06 at gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>
>> Mike, on my boat the topping lift runs down outside the mast to a block
>> on the port cabin top near the hand rail and then back through a cam cleat
>> at the cockpit, similar to the jib furling line.
>>
>>
>> Michael McKay
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 7:35?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > ?Mike,
>> >
>> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so complex.
>> On my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
>> masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and attached it
>> to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to adjust
>> the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This is at
>> least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter with
>> less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble and
>> effort to rebuild the factory setup.
>> >
>> > Roger Pihlaja
>> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> > 1978. Sanford, MI
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> ?Hello everyone!
>> >>
>> >> My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
>> Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of that
>> time.
>> >> I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last, two-year
>> delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler, and
>> then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
>> >> I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the boom
>> lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't make
>> any sense.
>> >> I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
>> just rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat because it
>> was Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
>> >> Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes. It's
>> an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
>> >> The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at the
>> top of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
>> manual. However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the IMF
>> rotating shaft.
>> >> I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can visualize
>> it.
>> >> Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and it's
>> been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black lines on
>> the bottom of the boom.
>> >> At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
>> still order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and is
>> routed thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure things
>> out.
>> >> Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would make
>> sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight. "Seems..."
>> >> Any help would be much appreciated.
>> >>
>> >> Mike Blagg
>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> >> Name: sail rigging.jpg
>> >> Type: image/jpeg
>> >> Size: 69185 bytes
>> >> Desc: not available
>> >> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
>> >
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:21:20 -0400
>> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
>> To: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>> Message-ID: <8602DCF2-A4C3-4B30-AAD8-21C7857737E0 at verizon.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>
>> Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
>> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the hatches.
>> Scott A.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > ?Hi All,
>> >
>> > Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
>> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
>> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together represent a
>> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
>> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be cut
>> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce the
>> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in any
>> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this issue
>> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I advise
>> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix if
>> you weaken it too much.
>> >
>> > Roger Pihlaja
>> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> > 1978. Sanford, MI
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> >> Name: image0.jpeg
>> >> Type: image/jpeg
>> >> Size: 110591 bytes
>> >> Desc: not available
>> >> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>> >
>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>> >>
>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>
>> >>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>> rebuilt the
>> >>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>> bilge
>> >>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
>> >>>
>> >>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
>> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>> >>>> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Mike
>> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>> >>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
>> want
>> >>>> to
>> >>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>> stuff
>> >>>> I'm
>> >>>>> really jealous of!
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
>> they're all
>> >>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>> hatch
>> >>>>> over
>> >>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
>> that
>> >>>> are
>> >>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>> worried
>> >>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can be
>> >>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
>> >>>> better
>> >>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
>> you some
>> >>>>> headroom! Thanks!
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 08:22:36 -0400
>> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>> Message-ID:
>>         <
>> CAJGJx+BF3gK+n0Q1_dWqC21aAq4RY+pCt+aZ1DHXGor6YFvrvA at mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Mike,
>> I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go anywhere
>> near the boom carriage.  I have experience with two boats and it just runs
>> from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
>> cabin
>> top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 28, 2024 at 5:15?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Mike,
>> >
>> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so complex.
>> On
>> > my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
>> > masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and attached
>> it
>> > to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to
>> adjust
>> > the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This
>> is at
>> > least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter with
>> > less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble and
>> > effort to rebuild the factory setup.
>> >
>> > Roger Pihlaja
>> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> > 1978. Sanford, MI
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> > > On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
>> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > ?Hello everyone!
>> > >
>> > > My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
>> > Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
>> that
>> > time.
>> > > I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last, two-year
>> > delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler, and
>> > then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
>> > > I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the boom
>> > lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
>> make
>> > any sense.
>> > > I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
>> just
>> > rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat because it
>> was
>> > Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
>> > > Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes. It's
>> > an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
>> > > The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at the
>> top
>> > of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the manual.
>> > However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the IMF
>> rotating
>> > shaft.
>> > > I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can visualize
>> > it.
>> > > Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and it's
>> > been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black lines
>> on
>> > the bottom of the boom.
>> > > At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
>> still
>> > order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and is routed
>> > thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure things
>> out.
>> > > Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would make
>> > sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight. "Seems..."
>> > > Any help would be much appreciated.
>> > >
>> > > Mike Blagg
>> > > -------------- next part --------------
>> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> > > Name: sail rigging.jpg
>> > > Type: image/jpeg
>> > > Size: 69185 bytes
>> > > Desc: not available
>> > > URL: <
>> >
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
>> > >
>> >
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 12:28:50 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: Mike <boon_doggy at yahoo.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>> Message-ID: <1962400431.850453.1722256130953 at mail.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> It didn't make any sense to me either and the more I thought about it,
>> the more I think the shop just rigged it wrong.The forward (black) line on
>> the boom car would make more sense running through the holes in the furler
>> in the mast, but I've got to order a new car before I can mess with it.
>>
>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>>
>>   On Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 8:22 AM, PBR<pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>  Mike,
>> I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go anywhere
>> near the boom carriage.? I have experience with two boats and it just runs
>> from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
>> cabin
>> top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 11:05:44 -0400
>> From: Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>> Message-ID: <bbf164be-7ee0-4fa7-997a-09d0476d2bbd at atlanticbb.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>>
>> Just a note here that there are a number of different configurations of
>> R22s. I believe that most were built with a compression post. On ours it
>> was built into the structure of the semi-enclosed head. When we bought
>> the boat (a 1991) to be refurbished in 1998 it did not have overhead
>> hatches so we asked Stan about putting a single hatch over the head
>> area. He said there was no structural problem doing it so that is what
>> we had done.
>>
>> Mary Lou
>> ex 1991 R22 (refurbished 1998)
>> now Rosborough RF-246?? Tara
>> Rock Hall, MD
>>
>> On 7/29/2024 7:21 AM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote:
>> > Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
>> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the hatches.
>> > Scott A.
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> ?Hi All,
>> >>
>> >> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
>> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
>> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together represent a
>> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
>> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be cut
>> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce the
>> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in any
>> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this issue
>> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I advise
>> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix if
>> you weaken it too much.
>> >>
>> >> Roger Pihlaja
>> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> >>
>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>
>> >>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>> >>> -------------- next part --------------
>> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> >>> Name: image0.jpeg
>> >>> Type: image/jpeg
>> >>> Size: 110591 bytes
>> >>> Desc: not available
>> >>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>> >
>> >>> -------------- next part --------------
>> >>>
>> >>> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>>
>> >>>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>> rebuilt the
>> >>>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>> bilge
>> >>>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
>> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>> >>>>> wrote:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Mike
>> >>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> >>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>> >>>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that
>> I want
>> >>>>> to
>> >>>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>> stuff
>> >>>>> I'm
>> >>>>>> really jealous of!
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
>> they're all
>> >>>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>> hatch
>> >>>>>> over
>> >>>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
>> that
>> >>>>> are
>> >>>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>> worried
>> >>>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
>> be
>> >>>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
>> >>>>> better
>> >>>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
>> you some
>> >>>>>> headroom! Thanks!
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 12:16:08 -0400
>> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>> Message-ID:
>>         <
>> CACo3U6M2gL2t6TKjntHnxkpiJ2BGN6jcq1c7RFz2PMTNHchc3g at mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> I had read this previously, but it just appeared again today in my inbox.
>> Pure Stan!
>>
>> Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>> From: from Small Craft Advisor <smallcraftadvisor at substack.com>
>> Date: Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 12:11?PM
>> Subject: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>> To: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>
>>
>> Owner of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>> ?   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ?
>> Forwarded this email? Subscribe here
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc3Vic2NyaWJlP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLXN1YnNjcmliZSZyPTFzNmp4eSZuZXh0PWh0dHBzJTNBJTJGJTJGc21hbGxjcmFmdGFkdmlzb3Iuc3Vic3RhY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRmEtY29udmVyc2F0aW9uLXdpdGgtc3Rhbi1zcGl0emVyIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.R81PwxA4yCPzs2tmiaSxzlACHktUDqnvKmpwnh-pwO8
>> ?>
>> for more
>> <
>> https://substack.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.OpEjPcVnjeqvS5QlU9SwpGVYiXnSglXUcvQATrinqbM
>> ?>
>> A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>> <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=post-email-title&utm_campaign=email-post-title&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>> >Owner
>> of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>>
>> Jul 29
>>
>> <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
>> >
>> <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>> >
>> <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&utm_campaign=email-share&action=share&triggerShare=true&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>> >
>> <
>> https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>> >
>>
>> READ IN APP
>> <
>> https://open.substack.com/pub/smallcraftadvisor/p/a-conversation-with-stan-spitzer?utm_source=email&redirect=app-store
>> >
>>
>>
>> *I had the opportunity to talk with Stan Spitzer, owner of General Boats
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/d0f0c2f7-6dad-47c3-a2cb-29bc4ab00f28?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>> >,
>> in January of 2016 at his General Boats Plant in Edenton, North Carolina.
>> General Boats has been in the sailboat business since 1959 and is best
>> known for the Rhodes 22. Stan is 90 years old and continues to manage the
>> day to day operations of General Boats.?Jerry Thompson*
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/990e10b3-29d0-430d-948b-222a780777c4?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>> >
>>
>> *Why and when did you break into the sailboat business?*
>>
>> I enjoyed sailing and it seemed like a good business to get into. I
>> started
>> by thinking about names. I thought an Atom line of sailboats would be
>> nice?Atom, 20, Atom 25 etc. In those days, the late 40s, the bomb had been
>> dropped and atomic energy was a big deal. Sometime later I bumped into a
>> friend from high school who had served in France during the war. He told
>> me
>> that they were doing great things with sailboats in France and why don?t
>> we
>> import some? I said sure, what have I got to lose? We kept our jobs and
>> formed a company called Nordica Corporation. He flew to France and made
>> arrangements to bring back a sailboat. The first we imported was a
>> Corsaire
>> designed by Herbulot, a famous French designer. It sailed well, but did
>> not
>> hold up. It was made of plywood and the French were behind the United
>> States in technology. I took one to the New York Boat Show which at the
>> time was the only boat show going. And it was gigantic. I was in
>> advertising so I wrote the copy and made up a brochure. Time magazine came
>> by our booth and wrote us up. The show was mostly motorboats with very few
>> sailboats?sailboats where just not that big at the time. My partners had a
>> meeting after the show and told me that I was out. Something about me and
>> my style didn?t sit well with them so they returned my initial $6,000
>> investment and I was out of Nordica Corporation. Years later I ran into
>> one
>> of my old partners and he told me to not feel bad about being thrown out
>> as
>> they went out of business shortly after kicking me out and lost all their
>> investment.
>>
>> *How did you move on from that disappointing start?*
>>
>> Well, I was hooked after that first boat show. But I had to start from
>> scratch. The graphic artist I worked with at the agency said he liked
>> sailboats, so together we formed General Boats in 1959 keeping our day
>> jobs
>> of course. This was way before Hunter and Catalina and we even beat O?Day
>> into the business. About this time sailing was starting to take off so our
>> timing was good.
>>
>> *How did you decide on the name General Boats?*
>>
>> I always thought big. So I looked around and said I?ll take the best name
>> I
>> can find. There was General Motors, General Electric, General Dynamics so
>> I
>> thought I would try General Boats. I was afraid somebody already had it,
>> but they didn?t. It was free so we had our name.
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/e79f0a65-04fa-4e18-a533-f91a45c96834?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>> >
>>
>> *What was your first boat?*
>>
>> I sought out a naval architect I had heard of, Nils Lucander. Nils did not
>> have a name in those days as he was just starting out. So I asked him to
>> design a sailboat and he said sure I?ll do it and he did it for
>> practically
>> nothing. And so we came out with the Picnic 17. I wrote the copy for a
>> brochure. The graphic artist I worked with did the artwork and it was a
>> beautiful brochure. But the boat wasn?t so hot. From my point of view I
>> wanted it to do everything to appeal to a broad market. We headlined it as
>> a sailboat, motorboat, ski boat, fishing boat. And I found out people who
>> came to the show didn?t know what to buy so they brought their experts
>> with
>> them who were sailors. And they would say it cannot be all those things; a
>> sailboat is a sailboat and a motorboat is a motorboat. I was claiming too
>> much.
>>
>> *Did you produce the Picnic 17?*
>>
>> No, producing as that was the last thing I wanted to do. I was smart
>> enough
>> to know not to get involved with building the boat, let somebody else do
>> that. I was approached by Lofland Sail-Craft out of Wichita, Kansas. They
>> sought me out and said they would like to build the Picnic 17 for me.
>> Francis Lofland was a lovely guy and began producing the Picnic 17 for me.
>> But I couldn?t get enough out of him. He had his own business building the
>> Snipe and other boats, so I was at the bottom of the list. So I went to
>> another company. I went to Ray Greene who was building the Rebel 16 and a
>> line of boats. He started building the Picnic 17 for me, but the same
>> thing
>> happened: I couldn?t get enough. Ray Greene didn?t turn out a good boat.
>> His own boats were okay, but I was not his priority. It was hard to get
>> them to put their heart and soul into a product that wasn?t theirs. I went
>> to another company in Nova Scotia, Industrial Shipping Company Limited,
>> and
>> they were wonderful. They got into building the Picnic 17 and built them
>> fast and very well. But then the guy I was dealing with there, George
>> McGovern, who was a very nice guy, died, ending my deal with that company
>> as he was the guy who wanted to build the Picnic for me. It was one thing
>> after another. So I decided at that point if I was going to stay in this
>> business I have got to make a boat that has a reputation behind it. Nils
>> Lucander would become a big name eventually, but at that point customers
>> would ask who the Picnic was designed by and I would tell them Nils
>> Lucander, but they never heard of him. So I had to get a name behind me.
>>
>> *How many Picnic 17s did you sell?*
>>
>> We ended up selling 350 which encouraged us to stay in the business, but
>> we
>> needed a name. Roger McGregor saw the Picnic 17 at a show and told me he
>> liked the notion of a sailboat/motorboat. This was before he was building
>> sailboats, but he put that idea back in his mind and eventually produced
>> his own line of motorsailors. We became very good friends over the years.
>> He was a very smart guy, top in his class at Stanford.
>>
>> *What came after the Picnic 17?*
>>
>> I needed something new. The naval architects in those days didn?t charge
>> based upon their reputations but by the size of the boat they were
>> designing. At that time the number one reputation belonged to Phillip
>> Rhodes. So I decided that?s easy, you start at the top and when he says no
>> you work your way down. His office was on Lexington Avenue also in New
>> York
>> City where I was living. So I made up some sketches and went and knocked
>> on
>> his door and he answered. There were lots of people working there, it was
>> a
>> big firm, but he answered the door. He looked down on me and said ?What do
>> you want?? I said I would like you to design a boat for me. I showed him
>> the sketches. At that time he would get a call from the Rockefellers
>> saying
>> hey Phil I need a 55-foot yacht, and he would design it for them. But
>> there
>> I was with sketches of a 22-foot boat and here is this guy a very well
>> known, famous naval architect. And he said, ?You know what, I have not
>> designed a smaller boat in a long time, I think I want to do this.? I
>> almost fell over. And I worked with him a year in his office and I learned
>> a lot about designing. Of course he would turn it over to somebody else
>> and
>> he would walk around like a school teacher making suggestions, changes and
>> corrections.
>>
>> *Was it expensive to have the top naval architect of the time design your
>> boat?*
>>
>> There were two ways you could work with Phillip Rhodes. You could say it
>> was your product and pay a royalty on each hull produced, or you could say
>> I?ll commission you and pay you a flat fee and it is my product. I said
>> I?d
>> rather own it outright and he said fine.
>>
>> *The Rhodes 22 has a very unique hull flare. Was that your idea or
>> Phillip?s?*
>>
>> I was always looking at other boats and one was an Olympic racing boat,
>> the
>> 505. It had what was called an upside down wineglass shape to the hull.
>> And
>> so I wondered about that flare and started thinking about it from an
>> engineering point of view. And it began to dawn on me it had a lot of
>> advantages. First, it had a built in hiking seat. You could sit out on the
>> flare beyond the hull itself, you could carry more sail and keep the boat
>> flat, I liked that idea. Then I thought it also makes a very dry hull. In
>> a
>> regular sailboat the waves break over the side and into the cockpit, a
>> wave
>> hits the flare and goes out away from the cockpit?very dry. I looked at it
>> more and recognized that because it was a compound curve instead of a
>> simple curve, it would be very strong. So using the same fiberglass the
>> other guys use I would have a much stronger hull. The sketches I gave to
>> Phil had the flare and he told me he liked what I was doing, but he didn?t
>> like the flare, ?That?s a motorboat, doesn?t look like a sailboat.? He
>> didn?t like it, but I insisted and he said it was my money so I could go
>> for it. After working on it a while Phil said the flare was growing on
>> him.
>> By the time he finished he said he liked it.
>>
>> *I have heard the boat referred to as the Rhodes Continental.*
>>
>> When I was first thinking about names the Lincoln Continental was a very
>> popular automobile, so I tried Rhodes Continental, two big names. But I
>> changed that not too long after to the Rhodes 22.
>>
>> *How was the Rhodes 22 received by the public?*
>>
>> I had a model made and brought it to the New York boat show, and when
>> people saw it they either didn?t like it because it looked like a
>> motorboat
>> or they loved it; it was extremes. I didn?t need the whole market, I just
>> needed a piece. It came out for $2,500. I put a big red ribbon around it.
>> You got the boat, the sails, the cushions, the lines, everything. With all
>> other sailboats everything was extra, the price sheet on sailboats in
>> those
>> days was pages. I came out with a price for the whole package and that
>> worked. I started taking orders.
>>
>> *What year was that?*
>>
>> Phil designed the boat in 1968 and we began having them produced in 1970.
>>
>> *What do you most enjoy about the sailboat business?*
>>
>> The customers. My customers have all been wonderful. Well, once there was
>> a
>> guy who was a pain in the neck. He came to my office and I sat him down
>> and
>> got out my checkbook and started writing. He said what are you doing? I
>> said I?m giving you your money back. He said I don?t want the money; I
>> want
>> your boat. So I told him to stop being such a pain in the neck and he
>> agreed. And there was one other guy who liked the boat and bought it, but
>> came back and said his family didn?t take to it and asked if I would take
>> it back. I said yes I?ll give you all of your money back. He said you?ll
>> give all my money back? I said sure. I don?t want anybody sailing the boat
>> who isn?t happy with it. I always tell my customers that they are our
>> sales
>> force. We don?t sell through dealers. So you?ve got to be happy with the
>> boat. If you are not happy, I?m not going to let you keep it.
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/b60057d0-8eb7-4aa2-a1b5-0b8cc1130f1b?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>> >
>>
>> *How many Rhodes 22s have been built?*
>>
>> 2,500. That is not an exact number as through the years we lost track of a
>> few, but at least 2,500.
>>
>> *Tell me about your recycled boats?*
>>
>> As the sales of new boats dropped off I started thinking of ways to make
>> up
>> for it. So I came up with the recycled boat program. We would purchase
>> older hulls, go completely over them, and sell them for much less than a
>> new boat. And they look and perform like new boats. I have a boat out in
>> the yard now that is 30 years old and a customer the other day thought it
>> was new. The recycled boats kept us in business. But it was a double-edged
>> sword as it hurt further the new boat business. But, we are still in
>> business.
>>
>> *Are you the only builder that has a recycle program?*
>>
>> To my knowledge, yes. The reason it worked is that we sold direct. It
>> would
>> not work if you sold through dealers, which most builders do.
>>
>> *Did you go to Annapolis this year?*
>>
>> Yes, we were at the first show in1970 and have not missed a single show.
>>
>> *You have shown at every Annapolis Boat Show?*
>>
>> Yes, we?ve worked our way up from being way in the rear end of the show to
>> what I call the prime corner location. We have shown at 45 shows and hope
>> to make 50. *?SCA?*
>>
>> *Stan Spitzer and the Rhodes 22 have a very strong following of owners,
>> known as Rhodies, who are fiercely loyal to Stan and the Rhodes 22. Stan
>> is
>> still selling new and recycled Rhodes 22s at his plant in Edenton, North
>> Carolina. *
>>
>> *Jerry Thompson is an Information Systems professional who works and lives
>> in eastern North Carolina. He learned to sail over 25 years ago at the
>> Armed Forces Recreation Center, Lake Chiemsee, Germany. North Carolina?s
>> milder winters keep Jerry on the water year round.*
>>
>> First appeared in issue #109
>>
>> Invite your friends and earn rewards
>> If you enjoy Small Craft Advisor , share it with your friends and earn
>> rewards when they subscribe.
>>
>> Invite Friends
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vbGVhZGVyYm9hcmQ_PSZyZWZlcnJlcl90b2tlbj0xczZqeHkmcj0xczZqeHkmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLWxlYWRlcmJvYXJkIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.b-Ke62-3VrQg0bM2ECD962IdHabpbEmxB2vbqqRmLv8?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=postcta
>> >
>>
>> Like
>> <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
>> >
>> Comment
>> <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>> >
>> Restack
>> <
>> https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>> >
>>
>>
>> ? 2024 Joshua Colvin
>> PO Box 8958, Moscow, ID 83843
>> Unsubscribe
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vYWN0aW9uL2Rpc2FibGVfZW1haWw_dG9rZW49ZXlKMWMyVnlYMmxrSWpveE1EYzRNREV5TURZc0luQnZjM1JmYVdRaU9qRTBOekV6TURVeU9Dd2lhV0YwSWpveE56SXlNalk1TkRVNExDSmxlSEFpT2pFM05UTTRNRFUwTlRnc0ltbHpjeUk2SW5CMVlpMHhNRGN4TlRRNUlpd2ljM1ZpSWpvaVpHbHpZV0pzWlY5bGJXRnBiQ0o5LnQxUUxuWkxaeUk5UFZpZVdMT3pFYzk3MEx3Ui1wRVpzS3NsbjdybjdGZ3MiLCJwIjoxNDcxMzA1MjgsInMiOjEwNzE1NDksImYiOmZhbHNlLCJ1IjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsImlhdCI6MTcyMjI2OTQ1OCwiZXhwIjoxNzI0ODYxNDU4LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.deYcProfJ5Cv5s7Dvh9c_ldlRjU0n-EvOF6ptm-oLC4
>> ?>
>>
>> [image: Start writing]
>> <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc2lnbnVwP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9c3Vic3RhY2smdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1mb290ZXImdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWF1dG9maWxsZWQtZm9vdGVyJmZyZWVTaWdudXBFbWFpbD1tbS5iaXpsaXN0MUBnbWFpbC5jb20mcj0xczZqeHkiLCJwIjoxNDcxMzA1MjgsInMiOjEwNzE1NDksImYiOmZhbHNlLCJ1IjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsImlhdCI6MTcyMjI2OTQ1OCwiZXhwIjoxNzI0ODYxNDU4LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.vxyEt77C3j1e38EjCDWWdG_swz3LdnEB3R6zvjOAXWU
>> ?>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 9
>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 17:05:34 -0400
>> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
>> To: Mike <boon_doggy at yahoo.com>,  The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>> Message-ID:
>>         <
>> CAB-twMOXo8A2NnK5tEJ7EuTAc5BeGgmx2O0hfad_cBx8B_0oMQ at mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Perhaps the previous owner tucked the loose end into the goose neck
>> fitting, so it was not flapping loose during transport?
>>
>> Todd T.
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 29, 2024, 2:25 PM Mike via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> > It didn't make any sense to me either and the more I thought about it,
>> the
>> > more I think the shop just rigged it wrong.The forward (black) line on
>> the
>> > boom car would make more sense running through the holes in the furler
>> in
>> > the mast, but I've got to order a new car before I can mess with it.
>> >
>> > Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>> >
>> >   On Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 8:22 AM, PBR<pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >  Mike,
>> > I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
>> anywhere
>> > near the boom carriage.  I have experience with two boats and it just
>> runs
>> > from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
>> cabin
>> > top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
>> > Patrick
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 10
>> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:16:18 +0000
>> From: Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>> Message-ID:
>>         <
>> SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02 at SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM
>> >
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>> with a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
>> a picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
>> large hole.
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Rhodes 22
>> Agile, 1976
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> Hi Rhodies,
>>
>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>
>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.
>>
>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Mike McKay
>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael McKay
>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 89771 bytes
>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment.jpe
>> >
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 11
>> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 15:47:01 +0000
>> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>> Message-ID:
>>         <
>> MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
>> >
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
>> were the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory
>> OEM lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
>> the plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>> with a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
>> a picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
>> large hole.
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Rhodes 22
>> Agile, 1976
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> Hi Rhodies,
>>
>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>
>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.
>>
>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Mike McKay
>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael McKay
>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 89771 bytes
>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>> URL: <
>> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0
>> <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment.jpe
>> >>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 12
>> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:58:29 -0400
>> From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>> Message-ID: <504CE75E-0E2C-4599-A9E1-BCB7C09CB1F5 at gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8
>>
>> Thanks for this ? a joy to read again.  Vintage Stan ? you can just hear
>> him speaking.
>>
>> Frank
>>
>>
>> > On Jul 29, 2024, at 12:16?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > I had read this previously, but it just appeared again today in my
>> inbox.
>> > Pure Stan!
>> >
>> > Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>> >
>> >
>> > ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>> > From: from Small Craft Advisor <smallcraftadvisor at substack.com>
>> > Date: Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 12:11?PM
>> > Subject: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>> > To: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> >
>> >
>> > Owner of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>> > ?   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>> ??
>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>> ??
>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>> ??
>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>> ??
>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>> ??
>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>> ??
>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ?
>> > Forwarded this email? Subscribe here
>> > <
>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc3Vic2NyaWJlP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLXN1YnNjcmliZSZyPTFzNmp4eSZuZXh0PWh0dHBzJTNBJTJGJTJGc21hbGxjcmFmdGFkdmlzb3Iuc3Vic3RhY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRmEtY29udmVyc2F0aW9uLXdpdGgtc3Rhbi1zcGl0emVyIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.R81PwxA4yCPzs2tmiaSxzlACHktUDqnvKmpwnh-pwO8
>> ?>
>> > for more
>> > <
>> https://substack.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.OpEjPcVnjeqvS5QlU9SwpGVYiXnSglXUcvQATrinqbM
>> ?>
>> > A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>> > <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=post-email-title&utm_campaign=email-post-title&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>> >Owner
>> > of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>> >
>> > Jul 29
>> >
>> > <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
>> >
>> > <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>> >
>> > <
>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&utm_campaign=email-share&action=share&triggerShare=true&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>> >
>> > <
>> <https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email>
>
>

From Mweisner at ebsmed.com  Sat Aug  3 15:36:43 2024
From: Mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 15:36:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest,
 Vol 4576), Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <CAEZbNGCDPE3aegBn-7wRv4BcDM233cA0r0y1YUcrSMC4VuqNVw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2283.1722365923.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
 <CAEZbNGBRQ+jL0XbCksraLtA2c=SboJTQ0H+m+aBeSnS32B4LgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEZbNGCDPE3aegBn-7wRv4BcDM233cA0r0y1YUcrSMC4VuqNVw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c4f61ee454092dee3db58de4dd5de84f.squirrel@emailmg.netfirms.com>

It appears in the archives at:
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2024-July/092728.html

Did you have a specific question?

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY

On Sat, August 3, 2024 1:51 pm, peter klappert wrote:
> I sent this at the end of July but haven???t seen it. In case I screwed up
> when sending (I frequently screw up things digital), here it is again .
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 4:25???PM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I was the first???possibly the only???Rhodie who substituted an Airhead
>> composting head for the marine toilet and holding tank. (My R22 is kept
>> on
>> a lift at my dock: I didn???t want to have to find a pump out station.)
>> It
>> has a vent tube with a small computer fan, tho I doubt that affords much
>> head ventilation.
>>       But I also had Stan install a solar fan (rechargeable batteries)
>> in
>> the deck over the v-berth, way up in the bow. It pushes a great deal of
>> air
>> through the whole cabin. With the sliding panel between the v-berth and
>> head pushed open (ie to port) it keeps the head well-ventilated and
>>
> indeed, it ventilates the whole cabin).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *>>>>>>>>>  *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*
>>
>> *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:58???PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
>>>         rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>
>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>         http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>         rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
>>>
>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>         rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
>>>
>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
>>>
>>>
>>> Today's Topics:
>>>
>>>    1. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
>>>    2. Re: Head ventilation (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>>>    3. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Michael McKay)
>>>    4. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
>>>    5. Re: Boom Rigging Question (PBR)
>>>    6. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Mike)
>>>    7. Re: Head ventilation (Mary Lou Troy)
>>>    8. Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Michael McKay)
>>>    9. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Todd Tavares)
>>>   10. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Graham Stewart)
>>>   11. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>>>   12. Re: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Frank Goldsmith)
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 18:05:22 -0400
>>> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>>> Message-ID: <216AD1F0-4896-4812-9618-48135BA84B45 at verizon.net>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: image0.jpeg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 110591 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>>> >
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>>> rebuilt the
>>> > interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>>> bilge
>>> > pumps. More headroom would be nice
>>> >
>>> >> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner
>>> <Mweisner at ebsmed.com
>>> >
>>> >> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>>> >>
>>> >> Mike
>>> >> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>> >> Nissequogue River, NY
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>>> >>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
>>> want
>>> >> to
>>> >>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>>> stuff
>>> >> I'm
>>> >>> really jealous of!
>>> >>>
>>> >>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
>>> they're
>>> all
>>> >>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>>> hatch
>>> >>> over
>>> >>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
>>> that
>>> >> are
>>> >>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>>> worried
>>> >>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
>>> be
>>> >>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
>>> >> better
>>> >>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
>>> you
>>> some
>>> >>> headroom! Thanks!
>>> >>>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 22:23:10 +0000
>>> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>>> Message-ID:
>>>         <
>>> MN2PR10MB42886A2EAACCF5F9D2A2AC1C80B62 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
>>> >
>>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
>>> like
>>> to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
>>> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
>>> represent a
>>> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
>>> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be
>>> cut
>>> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
>>> the
>>> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
>>> any
>>> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this
>>> issue
>>> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I
>>> advise
>>> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
>>> if
>>> you weaken it too much.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>>> > -------------- next part --------------
>>> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> > Name: image0.jpeg
>>> > Type: image/jpeg
>>> > Size: 110591 bytes
>>> > Desc: not available
>>> > URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>>> >
>>> > -------------- next part --------------
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>>> rebuilt the
>>> >> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>>> bilge
>>> >> pumps. More headroom would be nice
>>> >>
>>> >>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
>>> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>> >>> wrote:
>>> >>>
>>> >>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Mike
>>> >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>> >>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>>> >>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that
>>> I
>>> want
>>> >>> to
>>> >>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>>> stuff
>>> >>> I'm
>>> >>>> really jealous of!
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
>>> they're
>>> all
>>> >>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>>> hatch
>>> >>>> over
>>> >>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
>>> that
>>> >>> are
>>> >>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>>> worried
>>> >>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
>>> be
>>> >>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
>>> be
>>> >>> better
>>> >>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
>>> you
>>> some
>>> >>>> headroom! Thanks!
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 3
>>> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 23:11:15 -0400
>>> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>>> Message-ID: <3E65320C-991D-4057-B001-D79B5C544C06 at gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>
>>> Mike, on my boat the topping lift runs down outside the mast to a block
>>> on the port cabin top near the hand rail and then back through a cam
>>> cleat
>>> at the cockpit, similar to the jib furling line.
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael McKay
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 7:35?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > ?Mike,
>>> >
>>> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so complex.
>>> On my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
>>> masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and attached
>>> it
>>> to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to
>>> adjust
>>> the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This
>>> is at
>>> least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter
>>> with
>>> less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble and
>>> effort to rebuild the factory setup.
>>> >
>>> > Roger Pihlaja
>>> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> > 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> ?Hello everyone!
>>> >>
>>> >> My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
>>> Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
>>> that
>>> time.
>>> >> I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last,
>>> two-year
>>> delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler,
>>> and
>>> then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
>>> >> I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the boom
>>> lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
>>> make
>>> any sense.
>>> >> I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
>>> just rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat
>>> because it
>>> was Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
>>> >> Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes.
>>> It's
>>> an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
>>> >> The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at the
>>> top of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
>>> manual. However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the
>>> IMF
>>> rotating shaft.
>>> >> I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can
>>> visualize
>>> it.
>>> >> Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and it's
>>> been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black lines
>>> on
>>> the bottom of the boom.
>>> >> At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
>>> still order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and is
>>> routed thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure
>>> things
>>> out.
>>> >> Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would
>>> make
>>> sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight. "Seems..."
>>> >> Any help would be much appreciated.
>>> >>
>>> >> Mike Blagg
>>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>>> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> >> Name: sail rigging.jpg
>>> >> Type: image/jpeg
>>> >> Size: 69185 bytes
>>> >> Desc: not available
>>> >> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 4
>>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:21:20 -0400
>>> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
>>> To: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>>> Message-ID: <8602DCF2-A4C3-4B30-AAD8-21C7857737E0 at verizon.net>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>
>>> Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
>>> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the hatches.
>>> Scott A.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > ?Hi All,
>>> >
>>> > Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
>>> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
>>> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
>>> represent a
>>> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
>>> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be
>>> cut
>>> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
>>> the
>>> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
>>> any
>>> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this
>>> issue
>>> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I
>>> advise
>>> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
>>> if
>>> you weaken it too much.
>>> >
>>> > Roger Pihlaja
>>> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> > 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>>> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> >> Name: image0.jpeg
>>> >> Type: image/jpeg
>>> >> Size: 110591 bytes
>>> >> Desc: not available
>>> >> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>>> >
>>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>>> >>
>>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>>> >>
>>> >>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >>>
>>> >>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>>> rebuilt the
>>> >>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
>>> bilge
>>> >>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
>>> >>>
>>> >>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
>>> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>> >>>> wrote:
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> Mike
>>> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>>> >>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that
>>> I
>>> want
>>> >>>> to
>>> >>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>>> stuff
>>> >>>> I'm
>>> >>>>> really jealous of!
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
>>> they're all
>>> >>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>>> hatch
>>> >>>>> over
>>> >>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
>>> that
>>> >>>> are
>>> >>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>>> worried
>>> >>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
>>> be
>>> >>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
>>> be
>>> >>>> better
>>> >>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
>>> you some
>>> >>>>> headroom! Thanks!
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 5
>>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 08:22:36 -0400
>>> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>>> Message-ID:
>>>         <
>>> CAJGJx+BF3gK+n0Q1_dWqC21aAq4RY+pCt+aZ1DHXGor6YFvrvA at mail.gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>> I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
>>> anywhere
>>> near the boom carriage.  I have experience with two boats and it just
>>> runs
>>> from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
>>> cabin
>>> top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 28, 2024 at 5:15?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Mike,
>>> >
>>> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so complex.
>>> On
>>> > my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
>>> > masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and
>>> attached
>>> it
>>> > to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to
>>> adjust
>>> > the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This
>>> is at
>>> > least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter
>>> with
>>> > less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble
>>> and
>>> > effort to rebuild the factory setup.
>>> >
>>> > Roger Pihlaja
>>> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> > 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> > > On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
>>> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> > >
>>> > > ?Hello everyone!
>>> > >
>>> > > My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
>>> > Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
>>> that
>>> > time.
>>> > > I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last,
>>> two-year
>>> > delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler,
>>> and
>>> > then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
>>> > > I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the
>>> boom
>>> > lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
>>> make
>>> > any sense.
>>> > > I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
>>> just
>>> > rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat because
>>> it
>>> was
>>> > Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
>>> > > Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes.
>>> It's
>>> > an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
>>> > > The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at
>>> the
>>> top
>>> > of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
>>> manual.
>>> > However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the IMF
>>> rotating
>>> > shaft.
>>> > > I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can
>>> visualize
>>> > it.
>>> > > Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and
>>> it's
>>> > been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black
>>> lines
>>> on
>>> > the bottom of the boom.
>>> > > At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
>>> still
>>> > order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and is
>>> routed
>>> > thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure things
>>> out.
>>> > > Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would
>>> make
>>> > sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight.
>>> "Seems..."
>>> > > Any help would be much appreciated.
>>> > >
>>> > > Mike Blagg
>>> > > -------------- next part --------------
>>> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> > > Name: sail rigging.jpg
>>> > > Type: image/jpeg
>>> > > Size: 69185 bytes
>>> > > Desc: not available
>>> > > URL: <
>>> >
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
>>> > >
>>> >
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 6
>>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 12:28:50 +0000 (UTC)
>>> From: Mike <boon_doggy at yahoo.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>>> Message-ID: <1962400431.850453.1722256130953 at mail.yahoo.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> It didn't make any sense to me either and the more I thought about it,
>>> the more I think the shop just rigged it wrong.The forward (black) line
>>> on
>>> the boom car would make more sense running through the holes in the
>>> furler
>>> in the mast, but I've got to order a new car before I can mess with it.
>>>
>>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>>>
>>>   On Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 8:22 AM, PBR<pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>  Mike,
>>> I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
>>> anywhere
>>> near the boom carriage.? I have experience with two boats and it just
>>> runs
>>> from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
>>> cabin
>>> top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 7
>>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 11:05:44 -0400
>>> From: Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
>>> Message-ID: <bbf164be-7ee0-4fa7-997a-09d0476d2bbd at atlanticbb.net>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>>>
>>> Just a note here that there are a number of different configurations of
>>> R22s. I believe that most were built with a compression post. On ours
>>> it
>>> was built into the structure of the semi-enclosed head. When we bought
>>> the boat (a 1991) to be refurbished in 1998 it did not have overhead
>>> hatches so we asked Stan about putting a single hatch over the head
>>> area. He said there was no structural problem doing it so that is what
>>> we had done.
>>>
>>> Mary Lou
>>> ex 1991 R22 (refurbished 1998)
>>> now Rosborough RF-246?? Tara
>>> Rock Hall, MD
>>>
>>> On 7/29/2024 7:21 AM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote:
>>> > Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
>>> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the hatches.
>>> > Scott A.
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> ?Hi All,
>>> >>
>>> >> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
>>> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
>>> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
>>> represent a
>>> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
>>> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be
>>> cut
>>> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
>>> the
>>> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
>>> any
>>> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this
>>> issue
>>> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I
>>> advise
>>> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
>>> if
>>> you weaken it too much.
>>> >>
>>> >> Roger Pihlaja
>>> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> >>
>>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>>> >>
>>> >>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> >>>
>>> >>> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
>>> >>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> >>> Name: image0.jpeg
>>> >>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> >>> Size: 110591 bytes
>>> >>> Desc: not available
>>> >>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
>>> >
>>> >>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> >>>
>>> >>>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >>>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
>>> rebuilt the
>>> >>>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have
>>> multiple
>>> bilge
>>> >>>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
>>> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>> >>>>> wrote:
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Mike
>>> >>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>> >>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
>>> >>>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods
>>> that
>>> I want
>>> >>>>> to
>>> >>>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
>>> stuff
>>> >>>>> I'm
>>> >>>>>> really jealous of!
>>> >>>>>>
>>> >>>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
>>> they're all
>>> >>>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
>>> hatch
>>> >>>>>> over
>>> >>>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find
>>> hatches
>>> that
>>> >>>>> are
>>> >>>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
>>> worried
>>> >>>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
>>> >>>>>>
>>> >>>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they
>>> can
>>> be
>>> >>>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
>>> be
>>> >>>>> better
>>> >>>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
>>> you some
>>> >>>>>> headroom! Thanks!
>>> >>>>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 8
>>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 12:16:08 -0400
>>> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>>> Message-ID:
>>>         <
>>> CACo3U6M2gL2t6TKjntHnxkpiJ2BGN6jcq1c7RFz2PMTNHchc3g at mail.gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> I had read this previously, but it just appeared again today in my
>>> inbox.
>>> Pure Stan!
>>>
>>> Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>>> From: from Small Craft Advisor <smallcraftadvisor at substack.com>
>>> Date: Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 12:11?PM
>>> Subject: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>>> To: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> Owner of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>>> ?   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
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>>> ??
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>>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ?
>>> Forwarded this email? Subscribe here
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc3Vic2NyaWJlP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLXN1YnNjcmliZSZyPTFzNmp4eSZuZXh0PWh0dHBzJTNBJTJGJTJGc21hbGxjcmFmdGFkdmlzb3Iuc3Vic3RhY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRmEtY29udmVyc2F0aW9uLXdpdGgtc3Rhbi1zcGl0emVyIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.R81PwxA4yCPzs2tmiaSxzlACHktUDqnvKmpwnh-pwO8
>>> ?>
>>> for more
>>> <
>>> https://substack.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.OpEjPcVnjeqvS5QlU9SwpGVYiXnSglXUcvQATrinqbM
>>> ?>
>>> A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=post-email-title&utm_campaign=email-post-title&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>>> >Owner
>>> of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>>>
>>> Jul 29
>>>
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
>>> >
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>>> >
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&utm_campaign=email-share&action=share&triggerShare=true&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>>> >
>>> <
>>> https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>>> >
>>>
>>> READ IN APP
>>> <
>>> https://open.substack.com/pub/smallcraftadvisor/p/a-conversation-with-stan-spitzer?utm_source=email&redirect=app-store
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> *I had the opportunity to talk with Stan Spitzer, owner of General
>>> Boats
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/d0f0c2f7-6dad-47c3-a2cb-29bc4ab00f28?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>>> >,
>>> in January of 2016 at his General Boats Plant in Edenton, North
>>> Carolina.
>>> General Boats has been in the sailboat business since 1959 and is best
>>> known for the Rhodes 22. Stan is 90 years old and continues to manage
>>> the
>>> day to day operations of General Boats.?Jerry Thompson*
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/990e10b3-29d0-430d-948b-222a780777c4?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>>> >
>>>
>>> *Why and when did you break into the sailboat business?*
>>>
>>> I enjoyed sailing and it seemed like a good business to get into. I
>>> started
>>> by thinking about names. I thought an Atom line of sailboats would be
>>> nice?Atom, 20, Atom 25 etc. In those days, the late 40s, the bomb had
>>> been
>>> dropped and atomic energy was a big deal. Sometime later I bumped into
>>> a
>>> friend from high school who had served in France during the war. He
>>> told
>>> me
>>> that they were doing great things with sailboats in France and why
>>> don?t
>>> we
>>> import some? I said sure, what have I got to lose? We kept our jobs and
>>> formed a company called Nordica Corporation. He flew to France and made
>>> arrangements to bring back a sailboat. The first we imported was a
>>> Corsaire
>>> designed by Herbulot, a famous French designer. It sailed well, but did
>>> not
>>> hold up. It was made of plywood and the French were behind the United
>>> States in technology. I took one to the New York Boat Show which at the
>>> time was the only boat show going. And it was gigantic. I was in
>>> advertising so I wrote the copy and made up a brochure. Time magazine
>>> came
>>> by our booth and wrote us up. The show was mostly motorboats with very
>>> few
>>> sailboats?sailboats where just not that big at the time. My partners
>>> had a
>>> meeting after the show and told me that I was out. Something about me
>>> and
>>> my style didn?t sit well with them so they returned my initial $6,000
>>> investment and I was out of Nordica Corporation. Years later I ran into
>>> one
>>> of my old partners and he told me to not feel bad about being thrown
>>> out
>>> as
>>> they went out of business shortly after kicking me out and lost all
>>> their
>>> investment.
>>>
>>> *How did you move on from that disappointing start?*
>>>
>>> Well, I was hooked after that first boat show. But I had to start from
>>> scratch. The graphic artist I worked with at the agency said he liked
>>> sailboats, so together we formed General Boats in 1959 keeping our day
>>> jobs
>>> of course. This was way before Hunter and Catalina and we even beat
>>> O?Day
>>> into the business. About this time sailing was starting to take off so
>>> our
>>> timing was good.
>>>
>>> *How did you decide on the name General Boats?*
>>>
>>> I always thought big. So I looked around and said I?ll take the best
>>> name
>>> I
>>> can find. There was General Motors, General Electric, General Dynamics
>>> so
>>> I
>>> thought I would try General Boats. I was afraid somebody already had
>>> it,
>>> but they didn?t. It was free so we had our name.
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/e79f0a65-04fa-4e18-a533-f91a45c96834?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>>> >
>>>
>>> *What was your first boat?*
>>>
>>> I sought out a naval architect I had heard of, Nils Lucander. Nils did
>>> not
>>> have a name in those days as he was just starting out. So I asked him
>>> to
>>> design a sailboat and he said sure I?ll do it and he did it for
>>> practically
>>> nothing. And so we came out with the Picnic 17. I wrote the copy for a
>>> brochure. The graphic artist I worked with did the artwork and it was a
>>> beautiful brochure. But the boat wasn?t so hot. From my point of view I
>>> wanted it to do everything to appeal to a broad market. We headlined it
>>> as
>>> a sailboat, motorboat, ski boat, fishing boat. And I found out people
>>> who
>>> came to the show didn?t know what to buy so they brought their experts
>>> with
>>> them who were sailors. And they would say it cannot be all those
>>> things; a
>>> sailboat is a sailboat and a motorboat is a motorboat. I was claiming
>>> too
>>> much.
>>>
>>> *Did you produce the Picnic 17?*
>>>
>>> No, producing as that was the last thing I wanted to do. I was smart
>>> enough
>>> to know not to get involved with building the boat, let somebody else
>>> do
>>> that. I was approached by Lofland Sail-Craft out of Wichita, Kansas.
>>> They
>>> sought me out and said they would like to build the Picnic 17 for me.
>>> Francis Lofland was a lovely guy and began producing the Picnic 17 for
>>> me.
>>> But I couldn?t get enough out of him. He had his own business building
>>> the
>>> Snipe and other boats, so I was at the bottom of the list. So I went to
>>> another company. I went to Ray Greene who was building the Rebel 16 and
>>> a
>>> line of boats. He started building the Picnic 17 for me, but the same
>>> thing
>>> happened: I couldn?t get enough. Ray Greene didn?t turn out a good
>>> boat.
>>> His own boats were okay, but I was not his priority. It was hard to get
>>> them to put their heart and soul into a product that wasn?t theirs. I
>>> went
>>> to another company in Nova Scotia, Industrial Shipping Company Limited,
>>> and
>>> they were wonderful. They got into building the Picnic 17 and built
>>> them
>>> fast and very well. But then the guy I was dealing with there, George
>>> McGovern, who was a very nice guy, died, ending my deal with that
>>> company
>>> as he was the guy who wanted to build the Picnic for me. It was one
>>> thing
>>> after another. So I decided at that point if I was going to stay in
>>> this
>>> business I have got to make a boat that has a reputation behind it.
>>> Nils
>>> Lucander would become a big name eventually, but at that point
>>> customers
>>> would ask who the Picnic was designed by and I would tell them Nils
>>> Lucander, but they never heard of him. So I had to get a name behind
>>> me.
>>>
>>> *How many Picnic 17s did you sell?*
>>>
>>> We ended up selling 350 which encouraged us to stay in the business,
>>> but
>>> we
>>> needed a name. Roger McGregor saw the Picnic 17 at a show and told me
>>> he
>>> liked the notion of a sailboat/motorboat. This was before he was
>>> building
>>> sailboats, but he put that idea back in his mind and eventually
>>> produced
>>> his own line of motorsailors. We became very good friends over the
>>> years.
>>> He was a very smart guy, top in his class at Stanford.
>>>
>>> *What came after the Picnic 17?*
>>>
>>> I needed something new. The naval architects in those days didn?t
>>> charge
>>> based upon their reputations but by the size of the boat they were
>>> designing. At that time the number one reputation belonged to Phillip
>>> Rhodes. So I decided that?s easy, you start at the top and when he says
>>> no
>>> you work your way down. His office was on Lexington Avenue also in New
>>> York
>>> City where I was living. So I made up some sketches and went and
>>> knocked
>>> on
>>> his door and he answered. There were lots of people working there, it
>>> was
>>> a
>>> big firm, but he answered the door. He looked down on me and said ?What
>>> do
>>> you want?? I said I would like you to design a boat for me. I showed
>>> him
>>> the sketches. At that time he would get a call from the Rockefellers
>>> saying
>>> hey Phil I need a 55-foot yacht, and he would design it for them. But
>>> there
>>> I was with sketches of a 22-foot boat and here is this guy a very well
>>> known, famous naval architect. And he said, ?You know what, I have not
>>> designed a smaller boat in a long time, I think I want to do this.? I
>>> almost fell over. And I worked with him a year in his office and I
>>> learned
>>> a lot about designing. Of course he would turn it over to somebody else
>>> and
>>> he would walk around like a school teacher making suggestions, changes
>>> and
>>> corrections.
>>>
>>> *Was it expensive to have the top naval architect of the time design
>>> your
>>> boat?*
>>>
>>> There were two ways you could work with Phillip Rhodes. You could say
>>> it
>>> was your product and pay a royalty on each hull produced, or you could
>>> say
>>> I?ll commission you and pay you a flat fee and it is my product. I said
>>> I?d
>>> rather own it outright and he said fine.
>>>
>>> *The Rhodes 22 has a very unique hull flare. Was that your idea or
>>> Phillip?s?*
>>>
>>> I was always looking at other boats and one was an Olympic racing boat,
>>> the
>>> 505. It had what was called an upside down wineglass shape to the hull.
>>> And
>>> so I wondered about that flare and started thinking about it from an
>>> engineering point of view. And it began to dawn on me it had a lot of
>>> advantages. First, it had a built in hiking seat. You could sit out on
>>> the
>>> flare beyond the hull itself, you could carry more sail and keep the
>>> boat
>>> flat, I liked that idea. Then I thought it also makes a very dry hull.
>>> In
>>> a
>>> regular sailboat the waves break over the side and into the cockpit, a
>>> wave
>>> hits the flare and goes out away from the cockpit?very dry. I looked at
>>> it
>>> more and recognized that because it was a compound curve instead of a
>>> simple curve, it would be very strong. So using the same fiberglass the
>>> other guys use I would have a much stronger hull. The sketches I gave
>>> to
>>> Phil had the flare and he told me he liked what I was doing, but he
>>> didn?t
>>> like the flare, ?That?s a motorboat, doesn?t look like a sailboat.? He
>>> didn?t like it, but I insisted and he said it was my money so I could
>>> go
>>> for it. After working on it a while Phil said the flare was growing on
>>> him.
>>> By the time he finished he said he liked it.
>>>
>>> *I have heard the boat referred to as the Rhodes Continental.*
>>>
>>> When I was first thinking about names the Lincoln Continental was a
>>> very
>>> popular automobile, so I tried Rhodes Continental, two big names. But I
>>> changed that not too long after to the Rhodes 22.
>>>
>>> *How was the Rhodes 22 received by the public?*
>>>
>>> I had a model made and brought it to the New York boat show, and when
>>> people saw it they either didn?t like it because it looked like a
>>> motorboat
>>> or they loved it; it was extremes. I didn?t need the whole market, I
>>> just
>>> needed a piece. It came out for $2,500. I put a big red ribbon around
>>> it.
>>> You got the boat, the sails, the cushions, the lines, everything. With
>>> all
>>> other sailboats everything was extra, the price sheet on sailboats in
>>> those
>>> days was pages. I came out with a price for the whole package and that
>>> worked. I started taking orders.
>>>
>>> *What year was that?*
>>>
>>> Phil designed the boat in 1968 and we began having them produced in
>>> 1970.
>>>
>>> *What do you most enjoy about the sailboat business?*
>>>
>>> The customers. My customers have all been wonderful. Well, once there
>>> was
>>> a
>>> guy who was a pain in the neck. He came to my office and I sat him down
>>> and
>>> got out my checkbook and started writing. He said what are you doing? I
>>> said I?m giving you your money back. He said I don?t want the money; I
>>> want
>>> your boat. So I told him to stop being such a pain in the neck and he
>>> agreed. And there was one other guy who liked the boat and bought it,
>>> but
>>> came back and said his family didn?t take to it and asked if I would
>>> take
>>> it back. I said yes I?ll give you all of your money back. He said
>>> you?ll
>>> give all my money back? I said sure. I don?t want anybody sailing the
>>> boat
>>> who isn?t happy with it. I always tell my customers that they are our
>>> sales
>>> force. We don?t sell through dealers. So you?ve got to be happy with
>>> the
>>> boat. If you are not happy, I?m not going to let you keep it.
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/b60057d0-8eb7-4aa2-a1b5-0b8cc1130f1b?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
>>> >
>>>
>>> *How many Rhodes 22s have been built?*
>>>
>>> 2,500. That is not an exact number as through the years we lost track
>>> of a
>>> few, but at least 2,500.
>>>
>>> *Tell me about your recycled boats?*
>>>
>>> As the sales of new boats dropped off I started thinking of ways to
>>> make
>>> up
>>> for it. So I came up with the recycled boat program. We would purchase
>>> older hulls, go completely over them, and sell them for much less than
>>> a
>>> new boat. And they look and perform like new boats. I have a boat out
>>> in
>>> the yard now that is 30 years old and a customer the other day thought
>>> it
>>> was new. The recycled boats kept us in business. But it was a
>>> double-edged
>>> sword as it hurt further the new boat business. But, we are still in
>>> business.
>>>
>>> *Are you the only builder that has a recycle program?*
>>>
>>> To my knowledge, yes. The reason it worked is that we sold direct. It
>>> would
>>> not work if you sold through dealers, which most builders do.
>>>
>>> *Did you go to Annapolis this year?*
>>>
>>> Yes, we were at the first show in1970 and have not missed a single
>>> show.
>>>
>>> *You have shown at every Annapolis Boat Show?*
>>>
>>> Yes, we?ve worked our way up from being way in the rear end of the show
>>> to
>>> what I call the prime corner location. We have shown at 45 shows and
>>> hope
>>> to make 50. *?SCA?*
>>>
>>> *Stan Spitzer and the Rhodes 22 have a very strong following of owners,
>>> known as Rhodies, who are fiercely loyal to Stan and the Rhodes 22.
>>> Stan
>>> is
>>> still selling new and recycled Rhodes 22s at his plant in Edenton,
>>> North
>>> Carolina. *
>>>
>>> *Jerry Thompson is an Information Systems professional who works and
>>> lives
>>> in eastern North Carolina. He learned to sail over 25 years ago at the
>>> Armed Forces Recreation Center, Lake Chiemsee, Germany. North
>>> Carolina?s
>>> milder winters keep Jerry on the water year round.*
>>>
>>> First appeared in issue #109
>>>
>>> Invite your friends and earn rewards
>>> If you enjoy Small Craft Advisor , share it with your friends and earn
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>>>
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>>> <
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>>> Like
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
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>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>>> >
>>> Restack
>>> <
>>> https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> ? 2024 Joshua Colvin
>>> PO Box 8958, Moscow, ID 83843
>>> Unsubscribe
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vYWN0aW9uL2Rpc2FibGVfZW1haWw_dG9rZW49ZXlKMWMyVnlYMmxrSWpveE1EYzRNREV5TURZc0luQnZjM1JmYVdRaU9qRTBOekV6TURVeU9Dd2lhV0YwSWpveE56SXlNalk1TkRVNExDSmxlSEFpT2pFM05UTTRNRFUwTlRnc0ltbHpjeUk2SW5CMVlpMHhNRGN4TlRRNUlpd2ljM1ZpSWpvaVpHbHpZV0pzWlY5bGJXRnBiQ0o5LnQxUUxuWkxaeUk5UFZpZVdMT3pFYzk3MEx3Ui1wRVpzS3NsbjdybjdGZ3MiLCJwIjoxNDcxMzA1MjgsInMiOjEwNzE1NDksImYiOmZhbHNlLCJ1IjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsImlhdCI6MTcyMjI2OTQ1OCwiZXhwIjoxNzI0ODYxNDU4LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.deYcProfJ5Cv5s7Dvh9c_ldlRjU0n-EvOF6ptm-oLC4
>>> ?>
>>>
>>> [image: Start writing]
>>> <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc2lnbnVwP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9c3Vic3RhY2smdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1mb290ZXImdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWF1dG9maWxsZWQtZm9vdGVyJmZyZWVTaWdudXBFbWFpbD1tbS5iaXpsaXN0MUBnbWFpbC5jb20mcj0xczZqeHkiLCJwIjoxNDcxMzA1MjgsInMiOjEwNzE1NDksImYiOmZhbHNlLCJ1IjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsImlhdCI6MTcyMjI2OTQ1OCwiZXhwIjoxNzI0ODYxNDU4LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.vxyEt77C3j1e38EjCDWWdG_swz3LdnEB3R6zvjOAXWU
>>> ?>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 9
>>> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 17:05:34 -0400
>>> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
>>> To: Mike <boon_doggy at yahoo.com>,  The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
>>> Message-ID:
>>>         <
>>> CAB-twMOXo8A2NnK5tEJ7EuTAc5BeGgmx2O0hfad_cBx8B_0oMQ at mail.gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Perhaps the previous owner tucked the loose end into the goose neck
>>> fitting, so it was not flapping loose during transport?
>>>
>>> Todd T.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 29, 2024, 2:25 PM Mike via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>
>>> > It didn't make any sense to me either and the more I thought about
>>> it,
>>> the
>>> > more I think the shop just rigged it wrong.The forward (black) line
>>> on
>>> the
>>> > boom car would make more sense running through the holes in the
>>> furler
>>> in
>>> > the mast, but I've got to order a new car before I can mess with it.
>>> >
>>> > Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>>> >
>>> >   On Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 8:22 AM, PBR<pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> >  Mike,
>>> > I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
>>> anywhere
>>> > near the boom carriage.  I have experience with two boats and it just
>>> runs
>>> > from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
>>> cabin
>>> > top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
>>> > Patrick
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 10
>>> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:16:18 +0000
>>> From: Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>> Message-ID:
>>>         <
>>> SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02 at SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM
>>> >
>>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>>> with a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
>>> attached
>>> a picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
>>> section of
>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
>>> create a
>>> large hole.
>>>
>>>
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Rhodes 22
>>> Agile, 1976
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> Hi Rhodies,
>>>
>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>>
>>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
>>> inside.
>>>
>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>> Mike McKay
>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael McKay
>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 89771 bytes
>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment.jpe
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 11
>>> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 15:47:01 +0000
>>> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>> Message-ID:
>>>         <
>>> MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
>>> >
>>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
>>> were the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the
>>> factory
>>> OEM lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate
>>> into
>>> the plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by
>>> installing 4
>>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
>>> Defender
>>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
>>> these
>>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
>>> thru
>>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
>>> not
>>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
>>> component,
>>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
>>> this
>>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>>> with a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
>>> attached
>>> a picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
>>> section of
>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
>>> create a
>>> large hole.
>>>
>>>
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Rhodes 22
>>> Agile, 1976
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>
>>> Hi Rhodies,
>>>
>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>>
>>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
>>> inside.
>>>
>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>> Mike McKay
>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael McKay
>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 89771 bytes
>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>>> URL: <
>>> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0
>>> <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment.jpe
>>> >>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 12
>>> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:58:29 -0400
>>> From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>>> Message-ID: <504CE75E-0E2C-4599-A9E1-BCB7C09CB1F5 at gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8
>>>
>>> Thanks for this ? a joy to read again.  Vintage Stan ? you can just
>>> hear
>>> him speaking.
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>>
>>> > On Jul 29, 2024, at 12:16?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > I had read this previously, but it just appeared again today in my
>>> inbox.
>>> > Pure Stan!
>>> >
>>> > Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>>> > From: from Small Craft Advisor <smallcraftadvisor at substack.com>
>>> > Date: Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 12:11?PM
>>> > Subject: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>>> > To: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Owner of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>>> > ?   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ?
>>> ??
>>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ?
>>> ??
>>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ?
>>> ??
>>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ?
>>> ??
>>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ?
>>> ??
>>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> > ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
>>> ??
>>> > ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
>>> ?
>>> ??
>>> >  ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ?
>>> > Forwarded this email? Subscribe here
>>> > <
>>> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc3Vic2NyaWJlP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLXN1YnNjcmliZSZyPTFzNmp4eSZuZXh0PWh0dHBzJTNBJTJGJTJGc21hbGxjcmFmdGFkdmlzb3Iuc3Vic3RhY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRmEtY29udmVyc2F0aW9uLXdpdGgtc3Rhbi1zcGl0emVyIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.R81PwxA4yCPzs2tmiaSxzlACHktUDqnvKmpwnh-pwO8
>>> ?>
>>> > for more
>>> > <
>>> https://substack.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.OpEjPcVnjeqvS5QlU9SwpGVYiXnSglXUcvQATrinqbM
>>> ?>
>>> > A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
>>> > <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=post-email-title&utm_campaign=email-post-title&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>>> >Owner
>>> > of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
>>> >
>>> > Jul 29
>>> >
>>> > <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
>>> >
>>> > <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
>>> >
>>> > <
>>> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&utm_campaign=email-share&action=share&triggerShare=true&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
>>> >
>>> > <
>>> <https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email>
>>
>>
>



From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Aug  3 16:13:08 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 20:13:08 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMOsFVX9TNxv6BEuLS8N4JCOrVJ-c-3KiqVvJK1KfG4VEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMOsFVX9TNxv6BEuLS8N4JCOrVJ-c-3KiqVvJK1KfG4VEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428824A86CD160EC125D578780BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Todd,

The attached file has 3 annotated pictures.  They illustrate my lower chainplate repair.  The pictures are of the front port side lower chainplate.  But, all 4 lower chainplates are similar.  Note that I used snap-in plastic caps for the interior.  If I had it to do over again, I would have used the 4-1/2" Beckson deck inspection plates that I recomended in my recent posts on this subject.  Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos of the project in progress.  Hopefully, these images of the finished project will make things clearer for you.  Keep in mind you are looking at the current state of the chainplate repair originally done in 1988.  So, these chainplates have ~36 seasons of sailing on them.  I think they've held up pretty well, certainly better than the OEM chainplates.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI


________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 10:37 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Roger,
I wish I had asked you before I attempted replacing mine.

In my frustration to pull the bent tangs out, it never occurred to me to
simply cut off the top part that sticks out above.

Your explanation is Rhodes list gold.


Todd T.

On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 8:15 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> After you free the chainplate from the plywood, you will be able to pull
> it out backwards thru the inspection hole.  If the part above the roof is
> so bent that you can?t straighten it enough to fit thru the hole; then, cut
> it off.
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:03?PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?
> >
> > Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mike,
> >>
> >> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the
> Beckson
> >> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
> >> From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old
> chain
> >> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar
> stock
> >> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.
> The
> >> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Roger and Todd,
> >>>
> >>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>>
> >>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> >> inside
> >>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> >>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> >> case,
> >>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need
> >> to
> >>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>>
> >>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> >> Was
> >>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>>
> >>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> >> plate.
> >>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> >> an
> >>> inspection port.
> >>>
> >>> Is the above description correct?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> >>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> >> peasy,
> >>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all 4
> >>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> >> Beckson
> >>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> >> you
> >>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> >> you
> >>> want.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> >> open up
> >>> the cabin liner?
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi All,
> >>>
> >>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were
> >>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> >> the
> >>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> >>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> >> component,
> >>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with
> >>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
> a
> >>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section
> >> of
> >>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create
> >> a
> >>> large hole.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Graham Stewart
> >>> Rhodes 22
> >>> Agile, 1976
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>>
> >>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>>
> >>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you!
> >>>
> >>> Mike McKay
> >>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >>> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Michael McKay
> >>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>> Size: 89771 bytes
> >>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> URL:
> >>> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cf9f3c1f9ecdc42b40eec08dcb3c9d7df%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582926725136686%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=1%2FgnuW%2FuPnbPf9ZQdUMM%2BmlUiEeT%2BY2q3B9U%2FEh%2FYm8%3D&reserved=0
> >>>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >>>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >>> .jpe>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
>
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Aug  3 17:27:01 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 17:27:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428824A86CD160EC125D578780BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMOsFVX9TNxv6BEuLS8N4JCOrVJ-c-3KiqVvJK1KfG4VEw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428824A86CD160EC125D578780BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <EEF27DDF-34ED-41DB-BE8F-D0129A862296@sunnybeeches.com>

Roger (or anyone else with an opinion),

Can you think of a downside to mounting the new chainplate to the outside of the cabin wall rather than inside?  The existing holes would have to be filled in, but once you?ve done that, there would be fewer holes in the boat.

Thanks,

--Peter


> On Aug 3, 2024, at 4:13?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Todd,
> 
> The attached file has 3 annotated pictures.  They illustrate my lower chainplate repair.  The pictures are of the front port side lower chainplate.  But, all 4 lower chainplates are similar.  Note that I used snap-in plastic caps for the interior.  If I had it to do over again, I would have used the 4-1/2" Beckson deck inspection plates that I recomended in my recent posts on this subject.  Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos of the project in progress.  Hopefully, these images of the finished project will make things clearer for you.  Keep in mind you are looking at the current state of the chainplate repair originally done in 1988.  So, these chainplates have ~36 seasons of sailing on them.  I think they've held up pretty well, certainly better than the OEM chainplates.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> 


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Aug  3 17:35:24 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 17:35:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Posting to the list from Rhodes22.net is broken
Message-ID: <AA5EE94F-C5F2-4EF3-BE4D-E8591915C7BC@sunnybeeches.com>

It has apparently been broken for about a month.  Fortunately, Peter Beckerman and I were the only people really using it.

Behind the scenes, the code uses the PHP ?mail()? function.  No error code is being returned, but the mail does not go through. 

?Peter

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Aug  3 18:17:48 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 22:17:48 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <EEF27DDF-34ED-41DB-BE8F-D0129A862296@sunnybeeches.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMOsFVX9TNxv6BEuLS8N4JCOrVJ-c-3KiqVvJK1KfG4VEw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428824A86CD160EC125D578780BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <EEF27DDF-34ED-41DB-BE8F-D0129A862296@sunnybeeches.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42889087F80693C7E1C57E3280BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

The outer cabin wall is much stronger vs the inner cabin wall.  Also, if you look at the pictures I sent you, the OEM slots for the inner chainplates in the cabin roof line up with the outer cabin wall much better vs the inner cabin wall.  Thru bolting the chainplates thru the outer cabin wall will load the thru bolts in nearly pure shear, which is the strongest load path for the bolts.  Mine have lasted 36 seasons without leaking.  Besides, on the side of the cabin roof, it?s not like these thru bolts are below the waterline.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2024, at 5:27?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Roger (or anyone else with an opinion),
> 
> Can you think of a downside to mounting the new chainplate to the outside of the cabin wall rather than inside?  The existing holes would have to be filled in, but once you?ve done that, there would be fewer holes in the boat.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --Peter
> 
> 
>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 4:13?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Todd,
>> 
>> The attached file has 3 annotated pictures.  They illustrate my lower chainplate repair.  The pictures are of the front port side lower chainplate.  But, all 4 lower chainplates are similar.  Note that I used snap-in plastic caps for the interior.  If I had it to do over again, I would have used the 4-1/2" Beckson deck inspection plates that I recomended in my recent posts on this subject.  Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos of the project in progress.  Hopefully, these images of the finished project will make things clearer for you.  Keep in mind you are looking at the current state of the chainplate repair originally done in 1988.  So, these chainplates have ~36 seasons of sailing on them.  I think they've held up pretty well, certainly better than the OEM chainplates.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>> 
> 

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Aug  3 18:40:45 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 18:40:45 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
Message-ID: <ED69E6FC-ED17-4FA3-BE8E-DEE2E4471847@sunnybeeches.com>

?
I should have been clearer. I meant outside the outer wall, not outside the inner wall.  In other words, you would be able to see the entire chainplate while standing on the dock.

?Peter

> On Aug 3, 2024, at 6:18?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Peter,
> 
> The outer cabin wall is much stronger vs the inner cabin wall.  Also, if you look at the pictures I sent you, the OEM slots for the inner chainplates in the cabin roof line up with the outer cabin wall much better vs the inner cabin wall.  Thru bolting the chainplates thru the outer cabin wall will load the thru bolts in nearly pure shear, which is the strongest load path for the bolts.  Mine have lasted 36 seasons without leaking.  Besides, on the side of the cabin roof, it?s not like these thru bolts are below the waterline.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 5:27?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> ?Roger (or anyone else with an opinion),
>> Can you think of a downside to mounting the new chainplate to the outside of the cabin wall rather than inside?  The existing holes would have to be filled in, but once you?ve done that, there would be fewer holes in the boat.
>> Thanks,
>> --Peter
>>>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 4:13?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> Hi Todd,
>>> The attached file has 3 annotated pictures.  They illustrate my lower chainplate repair.  The pictures are of the front port side lower chainplate.  But, all 4 lower chainplates are similar.  Note that I used snap-in plastic caps for the interior.  If I had it to do over again, I would have used the 4-1/2" Beckson deck inspection plates that I recomended in my recent posts on this subject.  Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos of the project in progress.  Hopefully, these images of the finished project will make things clearer for you.  Keep in mind you are looking at the current state of the chainplate repair originally done in 1988.  So, these chainplates have ~36 seasons of sailing on them.  I think they've held up pretty well, certainly better than the OEM chainplates.
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Aug  3 18:56:35 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 22:56:35 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42889087F80693C7E1C57E3280BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BDB11B2B9D3BBA0723BA80B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACo3U6MES5yd8BYBeR5pvH9xX7=5kU6nh-sB-xBj4CRhvZ0twg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288708EBF3DD44ADF9AF60980B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMOsFVX9TNxv6BEuLS8N4JCOrVJ-c-3KiqVvJK1KfG4VEw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428824A86CD160EC125D578780BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <EEF27DDF-34ED-41DB-BE8F-D0129A862296@sunnybeeches.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42889087F80693C7E1C57E3280BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428886444AB2029E5BEC4CF780BC2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

I misunderstood your question.  If you want to mount your chainplates by thru bolting on the outside of the cabin wall; then, structurally that should be sound.  Be careful not to create an edge with the new chainplates and thru bolts that will snag sails and sheets.  You might need to bevel the edges of the chainplates to fair them.  &, of course you will have to fill in the OEM holes thru the cabin roof.  As you can see from the photos, my repair method made use of the OEM cabin roof holes, doesn?t leave anything outside the cabin walls to foul sails or sheets, is very strong, and easily inspected.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2024, at 6:17?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Peter,
> 
> The outer cabin wall is much stronger vs the inner cabin wall.  Also, if you look at the pictures I sent you, the OEM slots for the inner chainplates in the cabin roof line up with the outer cabin wall much better vs the inner cabin wall.  Thru bolting the chainplates thru the outer cabin wall will load the thru bolts in nearly pure shear, which is the strongest load path for the bolts.  Mine have lasted 36 seasons without leaking.  Besides, on the side of the cabin roof, it?s not like these thru bolts are below the waterline.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 5:27?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Roger (or anyone else with an opinion),
>> 
>> Can you think of a downside to mounting the new chainplate to the outside of the cabin wall rather than inside?  The existing holes would have to be filled in, but once you?ve done that, there would be fewer holes in the boat.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> --Peter
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 4:13?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Todd,
>>> 
>>> The attached file has 3 annotated pictures.  They illustrate my lower chainplate repair.  The pictures are of the front port side lower chainplate.  But, all 4 lower chainplates are similar.  Note that I used snap-in plastic caps for the interior.  If I had it to do over again, I would have used the 4-1/2" Beckson deck inspection plates that I recomended in my recent posts on this subject.  Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos of the project in progress.  Hopefully, these images of the finished project will make things clearer for you.  Keep in mind you are looking at the current state of the chainplate repair originally done in 1988.  So, these chainplates have ~36 seasons of sailing on them.  I think they've held up pretty well, certainly better than the OEM chainplates.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>> 
>> 

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  3 19:21:55 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 19:21:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the lower
shroud chainplates.
He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting the
chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out without
cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.

You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.

Todd T.

On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger and Todd,
>
> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> anything.
>
> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood inside
> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's case,
> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need to
> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>
> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.  Was
> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>
> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing plate.
> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as an
> inspection port.
>
> Is the above description correct?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy,
> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> screws
> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson
> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
> you
> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you
> want.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Roger Pihlaja
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open
> up
> the cabin liner?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi All,
>
> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Graham
> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
> large hole.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL:
> <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or
>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM>
>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> http://r
>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> .jpe>>
>
>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Aug  3 21:40:28 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 01:40:28 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428849A47AE19B9611EA4C7380BD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Todd,

I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Mike,
>
> Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the lower
> shroud chainplates.
> He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting the
> chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out without
> cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
>
> You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
>
> Todd T.
>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Roger and Todd,
>>
>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
>> anything.
>>
>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood inside
>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's case,
>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need to
>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>>
>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.  Was
>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>>
>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing plate.
>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as an
>> inspection port.
>>
>> Is the above description correct?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> ROGER
>> PIHLAJA
>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy,
>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
>> screws
>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson
>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
>> you
>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you
>> want.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open
>> up
>> the cabin liner?
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> ROGER
>> PIHLAJA
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Graham
>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
>> large hole.
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Rhodes 22
>> Agile, 1976
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>
>> Hi Rhodies,
>>
>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>
>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
>> inside.
>>
>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Mike McKay
>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael McKay
>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 89771 bytes
>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>> URL:
>> <
>> http://rhodes22.or/
>>
>> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
>>
>> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
>> <http://rhodes22.or/>
>>
>> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
>>
>> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>>
>> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>>
>> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
>>
>> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
>> http://r
>>
>> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
>> .jpe>>
>>
>>
>>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  3 23:15:59 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 23:15:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428849A47AE19B9611EA4C7380BD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428849A47AE19B9611EA4C7380BD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMO5ugs4A=0yap0yvZWFBgPAy9O_2WqS00uZRg48ocy5_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Roger,

Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
tried to download but stalled.

I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
other...especially better than my way.

When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.

Todd T.

On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Todd,
>
> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Mike,
> >
> > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> lower
> > shroud chainplates.
> > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> the
> > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> without
> > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> >
> > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Roger and Todd,
> >>
> >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>
> >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> case,
> >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need to
> >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>
> >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>
> >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> >> inspection port.
> >>
> >> Is the above description correct?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> peasy,
> >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all
> 4
> >> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> >> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
> >> you
> >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> >> want.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> open
> >> up
> >> the cabin liner?
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> >> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> >> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> >> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section of
> >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create a
> >> large hole.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Rhodes 22
> >> Agile, 1976
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>
> >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>
> >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Mike McKay
> >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 89771 bytes
> >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >> URL:
> >> <
> >> http://rhodes22.or/
> >>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> >>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >> .jpe>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>

From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  4 12:27:53 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 12:27:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMO5ugs4A=0yap0yvZWFBgPAy9O_2WqS00uZRg48ocy5_Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <02af01dae51c$f421c5f0$dc6551d0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428849A47AE19B9611EA4C7380BD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMO5ugs4A=0yap0yvZWFBgPAy9O_2WqS00uZRg48ocy5_Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005601dae68b$41aab4c0$c5001e40$@gmail.com>

Thank you again Todd and Roger for helping me plan this project.  I will take pictures and do a write up to consolidate all this advice into a single document.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd Tavares
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 11:16 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Roger,

Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
tried to download but stalled.

I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
other...especially better than my way.

When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.

Todd T.

On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Todd,
>
> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Mike,
> >
> > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> lower
> > shroud chainplates.
> > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> the
> > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> without
> > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> >
> > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Roger and Todd,
> >>
> >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>
> >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> case,
> >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need to
> >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>
> >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>
> >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> >> inspection port.
> >>
> >> Is the above description correct?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> peasy,
> >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all
> 4
> >> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> >> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
> >> you
> >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> >> want.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> open
> >> up
> >> the cabin liner?
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> >> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> >> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> >> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section of
> >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create a
> >> large hole.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Rhodes 22
> >> Agile, 1976
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>
> >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>
> >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Mike McKay
> >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 89771 bytes
> >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >> URL:
> >> <
> >> http://rhodes22.or/
> >>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> >>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >> .jpe>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>


From sea20 at verizon.net  Sun Aug  4 15:31:33 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews)
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 15:31:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <005601dae68b$41aab4c0$c5001e40$@gmail.com>
References: <005601dae68b$41aab4c0$c5001e40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2A3BAC3F-7EE8-434E-BA53-DC74CB663407@verizon.net>

Great information! I continue to be amazed by the wonderful sharing among owners. Thanks to all.
Scott & Rebecca 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 4, 2024, at 12:27?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> 
> ?Thank you again Todd and Roger for helping me plan this project.  I will take pictures and do a write up to consolidate all this advice into a single document.
> 
> Mike
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd Tavares
> Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 11:16 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> 
> Roger,
> 
> Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> tried to download but stalled.
> 
> I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> other...especially better than my way.
> 
> When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
> 
> Todd T.
> 
>> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Todd,
>> 
>> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
>> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Mike,
>>> 
>>> Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
>> lower
>>> shroud chainplates.
>>> He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
>> the
>>> chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
>>> removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
>> without
>>> cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
>>> 
>>> You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
>>> reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
>>> 
>>> Todd T.
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Roger and Todd,
>>>> 
>>>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
>> understand
>>>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
>>>> anything.
>>>> 
>>>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
>> inside
>>>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
>>>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
>> case,
>>>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
>>>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
>> need to
>>>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>>>> 
>>>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
>> Was
>>>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>>>> 
>>>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
>>>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
>>>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
>> the
>>>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
>> plate.
>>>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
>> an
>>>> inspection port.
>>>> 
>>>> Is the above description correct?
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>>> ROGER
>>>> PIHLAJA
>>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>> 
>>>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
>>>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
>> Remove
>>>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
>>>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
>>>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
>> the
>>>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
>> peasy,
>>>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all
>> 4
>>>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
>>>> screws
>>>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
>> Beckson
>>>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
>>>> you
>>>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
>> you
>>>> want.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> 
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>> 
>>>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
>> open
>>>> up
>>>> the cabin liner?
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>>> ROGER
>>>> PIHLAJA
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>> 
>>>> Hi All,
>>>> 
>>>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
>> were
>>>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
>>>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
>> the
>>>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
>>>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
>> Defender
>>>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
>>>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
>> thru
>>>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
>> not
>>>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
>> component,
>>>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
>> this
>>>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> Graham
>>>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>> 
>>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
>> with
>>>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
>>>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
>>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
>> section of
>>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
>> create a
>>>> large hole.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> Rhodes 22
>>>> Agile, 1976
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>>>> 
>>>> Hi Rhodies,
>>>> 
>>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>>>> 
>>>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
>>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
>>>> inside.
>>>> 
>>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>>>> 
>>>> Thank you!
>>>> 
>>>> Mike McKay
>>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
>>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Michael McKay
>>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 89771 bytes
>>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
>>>> URL:
>>>> <
>>>> http://rhodes22.or/
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
>>>> <http://rhodes22.or/>
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
>>>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
>>>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
>>>> http://r
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
>>>> .jpe>>
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
> 


From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Aug  5 19:12:00 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2024 19:12:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest,
 Vol 4576), Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <CAEZbNGCDPE3aegBn-7wRv4BcDM233cA0r0y1YUcrSMC4VuqNVw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2283.1722365923.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
 <CAEZbNGBRQ+jL0XbCksraLtA2c=SboJTQ0H+m+aBeSnS32B4LgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEZbNGCDPE3aegBn-7wRv4BcDM233cA0r0y1YUcrSMC4VuqNVw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiWDCm44Kd8LgKCe+kFvKAzzRuiqMhGj15_xSE4jPTL12A@mail.gmail.com>

Got it Peter!  I saw the installation, very neat.

On Sun, Aug 4, 2024 at 1:40?AM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I sent this at the end of July but haven?t seen it. In case I screwed up
> when sending (I frequently screw up things digital), here it is again .
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 4:25?PM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> > I was the first?possibly the only?Rhodie who substituted an Airhead
> > composting head for the marine toilet and holding tank. (My R22 is kept
> on
> > a lift at my dock: I didn?t want to have to find a pump out station.) It
> > has a vent tube with a small computer fan, tho I doubt that affords much
> > head ventilation.
> >       But I also had Stan install a solar fan (rechargeable batteries) in
> > the deck over the v-berth, way up in the bow. It pushes a great deal of
> air
> > through the whole cabin. With the sliding panel between the v-berth and
> > head pushed open (ie to port) it keeps the head well-ventilated and
> >
> indeed, it ventilates the whole cabin).
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > *>>>>>>>>>  *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*
> >
> > *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:58?PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
> >>         rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> >>
> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >>         http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >>         rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
> >>
> >> You can reach the person managing the list at
> >>         rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
> >>
> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
> >>
> >>
> >> Today's Topics:
> >>
> >>    1. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
> >>    2. Re: Head ventilation (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> >>    3. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Michael McKay)
> >>    4. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
> >>    5. Re: Boom Rigging Question (PBR)
> >>    6. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Mike)
> >>    7. Re: Head ventilation (Mary Lou Troy)
> >>    8. Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Michael McKay)
> >>    9. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Todd Tavares)
> >>   10. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Graham Stewart)
> >>   11. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> >>   12. Re: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Frank Goldsmith)
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 1
> >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 18:05:22 -0400
> >> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> >> Message-ID: <216AD1F0-4896-4812-9618-48135BA84B45 at verizon.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: image0.jpeg
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 110591 bytes
> >> Desc: not available
> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> >> >
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> >> rebuilt the
> >> > interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> >> bilge
> >> > pumps. More headroom would be nice
> >> >
> >> >> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> Mweisner at ebsmed.com
> >> >
> >> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> >> >>
> >> >> Mike
> >> >> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >> >> Nissequogue River, NY
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> >> >>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
> >> want
> >> >> to
> >> >>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> stuff
> >> >> I'm
> >> >>> really jealous of!
> >> >>>
> >> >>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but they're
> >> all
> >> >>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> hatch
> >> >>> over
> >> >>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> that
> >> >> are
> >> >>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> >> worried
> >> >>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can be
> >> >>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
> >> >> better
> >> >>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give you
> >> some
> >> >>> headroom! Thanks!
> >> >>>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 2
> >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 22:23:10 +0000
> >> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> >>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> >> Message-ID:
> >>         <
> >>
> MN2PR10MB42886A2EAACCF5F9D2A2AC1C80B62 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> >> >
> >>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
> like
> >> to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
> >> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
> represent a
> >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
> >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be
> cut
> >> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
> the
> >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> any
> >> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this issue
> >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I advise
> >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> if
> >> you weaken it too much.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> >> > -------------- next part --------------
> >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> > Name: image0.jpeg
> >> > Type: image/jpeg
> >> > Size: 110591 bytes
> >> > Desc: not available
> >> > URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> >> >
> >> > -------------- next part --------------
> >> >
> >> > Sent from my iPhone
> >> >
> >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> >> rebuilt the
> >> >> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> >> bilge
> >> >> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> >> >>
> >> >>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >> >>> wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Mike
> >> >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >> >>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> >> >>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
> >> want
> >> >>> to
> >> >>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> >> stuff
> >> >>> I'm
> >> >>>> really jealous of!
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> they're
> >> all
> >> >>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> >> hatch
> >> >>>> over
> >> >>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> >> that
> >> >>> are
> >> >>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> >> worried
> >> >>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> be
> >> >>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would be
> >> >>> better
> >> >>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> you
> >> some
> >> >>>> headroom! Thanks!
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 3
> >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 23:11:15 -0400
> >> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
> >> Message-ID: <3E65320C-991D-4057-B001-D79B5C544C06 at gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >>
> >> Mike, on my boat the topping lift runs down outside the mast to a block
> >> on the port cabin top near the hand rail and then back through a cam
> cleat
> >> at the cockpit, similar to the jib furling line.
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 7:35?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > ?Mike,
> >> >
> >> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so complex.
> >> On my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
> >> masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and attached
> it
> >> to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to
> adjust
> >> the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This
> is at
> >> least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter with
> >> less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble and
> >> effort to rebuild the factory setup.
> >> >
> >> > Roger Pihlaja
> >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> >
> >> > Sent from my iPhone
> >> >
> >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> ?Hello everyone!
> >> >>
> >> >> My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
> >> Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
> that
> >> time.
> >> >> I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last, two-year
> >> delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler, and
> >> then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
> >> >> I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the boom
> >> lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
> make
> >> any sense.
> >> >> I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
> >> just rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat
> because it
> >> was Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
> >> >> Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes.
> It's
> >> an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
> >> >> The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at the
> >> top of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
> >> manual. However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the
> IMF
> >> rotating shaft.
> >> >> I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can
> visualize
> >> it.
> >> >> Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and it's
> >> been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black lines
> on
> >> the bottom of the boom.
> >> >> At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
> >> still order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and is
> >> routed thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure
> things
> >> out.
> >> >> Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would
> make
> >> sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight. "Seems..."
> >> >> Any help would be much appreciated.
> >> >>
> >> >> Mike Blagg
> >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> >> Name: sail rigging.jpg
> >> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> >> Size: 69185 bytes
> >> >> Desc: not available
> >> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 4
> >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:21:20 -0400
> >> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> >> To: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> >> Message-ID: <8602DCF2-A4C3-4B30-AAD8-21C7857737E0 at verizon.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >>
> >> Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
> >> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the hatches.
> >> Scott A.
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > ?Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
> >> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
> >> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
> represent a
> >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
> >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be
> cut
> >> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
> the
> >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> any
> >> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this issue
> >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I advise
> >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> if
> >> you weaken it too much.
> >> >
> >> > Roger Pihlaja
> >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> >
> >> > Sent from my iPhone
> >> >
> >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> >> Name: image0.jpeg
> >> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> >> Size: 110591 bytes
> >> >> Desc: not available
> >> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> >> >
> >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> >>
> >> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> >>
> >> >>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> >> rebuilt the
> >> >>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> >> bilge
> >> >>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> >> >>>
> >> >>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >> >>>> wrote:
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> Mike
> >> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> >> >>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that
> I
> >> want
> >> >>>> to
> >> >>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> >> stuff
> >> >>>> I'm
> >> >>>>> really jealous of!
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> >> they're all
> >> >>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> >> hatch
> >> >>>>> over
> >> >>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> >> that
> >> >>>> are
> >> >>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> >> worried
> >> >>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> be
> >> >>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> be
> >> >>>> better
> >> >>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> >> you some
> >> >>>>> headroom! Thanks!
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 5
> >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 08:22:36 -0400
> >> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
> >> Message-ID:
> >>         <
> >> CAJGJx+BF3gK+n0Q1_dWqC21aAq4RY+pCt+aZ1DHXGor6YFvrvA at mail.gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> Mike,
> >> I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
> anywhere
> >> near the boom carriage.  I have experience with two boats and it just
> runs
> >> from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
> >> cabin
> >> top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
> >> Patrick
> >>
> >> On Sun, Jul 28, 2024 at 5:15?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Mike,
> >> >
> >> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so complex.
> >> On
> >> > my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
> >> > masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and
> attached
> >> it
> >> > to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to
> >> adjust
> >> > the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This
> >> is at
> >> > least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter
> with
> >> > less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble
> and
> >> > effort to rebuild the factory setup.
> >> >
> >> > Roger Pihlaja
> >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> >
> >> > Sent from my iPhone
> >> >
> >> > > On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
> >> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > ?Hello everyone!
> >> > >
> >> > > My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
> >> > Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
> >> that
> >> > time.
> >> > > I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last,
> two-year
> >> > delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler,
> and
> >> > then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
> >> > > I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the boom
> >> > lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
> >> make
> >> > any sense.
> >> > > I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
> >> just
> >> > rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat because it
> >> was
> >> > Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
> >> > > Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes.
> It's
> >> > an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
> >> > > The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at the
> >> top
> >> > of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
> manual.
> >> > However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the IMF
> >> rotating
> >> > shaft.
> >> > > I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can
> visualize
> >> > it.
> >> > > Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and it's
> >> > been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black
> lines
> >> on
> >> > the bottom of the boom.
> >> > > At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
> >> still
> >> > order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and is
> routed
> >> > thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure things
> >> out.
> >> > > Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would
> make
> >> > sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight.
> "Seems..."
> >> > > Any help would be much appreciated.
> >> > >
> >> > > Mike Blagg
> >> > > -------------- next part --------------
> >> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> > > Name: sail rigging.jpg
> >> > > Type: image/jpeg
> >> > > Size: 69185 bytes
> >> > > Desc: not available
> >> > > URL: <
> >> >
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
> >> > >
> >> >
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 6
> >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 12:28:50 +0000 (UTC)
> >> From: Mike <boon_doggy at yahoo.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
> >> Message-ID: <1962400431.850453.1722256130953 at mail.yahoo.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> It didn't make any sense to me either and the more I thought about it,
> >> the more I think the shop just rigged it wrong.The forward (black) line
> on
> >> the boom car would make more sense running through the holes in the
> furler
> >> in the mast, but I've got to order a new car before I can mess with it.
> >>
> >> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
> >>
> >>   On Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 8:22 AM, PBR<pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>  Mike,
> >> I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
> anywhere
> >> near the boom carriage.? I have experience with two boats and it just
> runs
> >> from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
> >> cabin
> >> top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
> >> Patrick
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 7
> >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 11:05:44 -0400
> >> From: Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> >> Message-ID: <bbf164be-7ee0-4fa7-997a-09d0476d2bbd at atlanticbb.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> >>
> >> Just a note here that there are a number of different configurations of
> >> R22s. I believe that most were built with a compression post. On ours it
> >> was built into the structure of the semi-enclosed head. When we bought
> >> the boat (a 1991) to be refurbished in 1998 it did not have overhead
> >> hatches so we asked Stan about putting a single hatch over the head
> >> area. He said there was no structural problem doing it so that is what
> >> we had done.
> >>
> >> Mary Lou
> >> ex 1991 R22 (refurbished 1998)
> >> now Rosborough RF-246?? Tara
> >> Rock Hall, MD
> >>
> >> On 7/29/2024 7:21 AM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> >> > Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
> >> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the hatches.
> >> > Scott A.
> >> > Sent from my iPhone
> >> >
> >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> ?Hi All,
> >> >>
> >> >> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
> >> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
> >> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
> represent a
> >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the mast.
> >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can be
> cut
> >> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
> the
> >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> any
> >> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this issue
> >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I advise
> >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> if
> >> you weaken it too much.
> >> >>
> >> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> >>
> >> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> >>
> >> >>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> >> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> >>> Name: image0.jpeg
> >> >>> Type: image/jpeg
> >> >>> Size: 110591 bytes
> >> >>> Desc: not available
> >> >>> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> >> >
> >> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >> >>>
> >> >>>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> >>>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> >> rebuilt the
> >> >>>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> >> bilge
> >> >>>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >> >>>>> wrote:
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> Mike
> >> >>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >> >>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> >> >>>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that
> >> I want
> >> >>>>> to
> >> >>>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> >> stuff
> >> >>>>> I'm
> >> >>>>>> really jealous of!
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> >> they're all
> >> >>>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> >> hatch
> >> >>>>>> over
> >> >>>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> >> that
> >> >>>>> are
> >> >>>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> >> worried
> >> >>>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> >> be
> >> >>>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> be
> >> >>>>> better
> >> >>>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> >> you some
> >> >>>>>> headroom! Thanks!
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 8
> >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 12:16:08 -0400
> >> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
> >> Message-ID:
> >>         <
> >> CACo3U6M2gL2t6TKjntHnxkpiJ2BGN6jcq1c7RFz2PMTNHchc3g at mail.gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> I had read this previously, but it just appeared again today in my
> inbox.
> >> Pure Stan!
> >>
> >> Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
> >>
> >>
> >> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> >> From: from Small Craft Advisor <smallcraftadvisor at substack.com>
> >> Date: Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 12:11?PM
> >> Subject: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
> >> To: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>
> >>
> >> Owner of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
> >> ?   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
> ??
> >>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
> ??
> >>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
> ??
> >>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
> ??
> >>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
> ??
> >>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??
> >> ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ?
> ??
> >>   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ??   ? ?
> >> Forwarded this email? Subscribe here
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc3Vic2NyaWJlP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLXN1YnNjcmliZSZyPTFzNmp4eSZuZXh0PWh0dHBzJTNBJTJGJTJGc21hbGxjcmFmdGFkdmlzb3Iuc3Vic3RhY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRmEtY29udmVyc2F0aW9uLXdpdGgtc3Rhbi1zcGl0emVyIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.R81PwxA4yCPzs2tmiaSxzlACHktUDqnvKmpwnh-pwO8
> >> ?>
> >> for more
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.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.OpEjPcVnjeqvS5QlU9SwpGVYiXnSglXUcvQATrinqbM
> >> ?>
> >> A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=post-email-title&utm_campaign=email-post-title&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
> >> >Owner
> >> of General Boats (Rhodes 22)
> >>
> >> Jul 29
> >>
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
> >> >
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
> >> >
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&utm_campaign=email-share&action=share&triggerShare=true&isFreemail=false&r=1s6jxy&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg
> >> >
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
> >> >
> >>
> >> READ IN APP
> >> <
> >>
> https://open.substack.com/pub/smallcraftadvisor/p/a-conversation-with-stan-spitzer?utm_source=email&redirect=app-store
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> *I had the opportunity to talk with Stan Spitzer, owner of General Boats
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/d0f0c2f7-6dad-47c3-a2cb-29bc4ab00f28?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
> >> >,
> >> in January of 2016 at his General Boats Plant in Edenton, North
> Carolina.
> >> General Boats has been in the sailboat business since 1959 and is best
> >> known for the Rhodes 22. Stan is 90 years old and continues to manage
> the
> >> day to day operations of General Boats.?Jerry Thompson*
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/990e10b3-29d0-430d-948b-222a780777c4?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
> >> >
> >>
> >> *Why and when did you break into the sailboat business?*
> >>
> >> I enjoyed sailing and it seemed like a good business to get into. I
> >> started
> >> by thinking about names. I thought an Atom line of sailboats would be
> >> nice?Atom, 20, Atom 25 etc. In those days, the late 40s, the bomb had
> been
> >> dropped and atomic energy was a big deal. Sometime later I bumped into a
> >> friend from high school who had served in France during the war. He told
> >> me
> >> that they were doing great things with sailboats in France and why don?t
> >> we
> >> import some? I said sure, what have I got to lose? We kept our jobs and
> >> formed a company called Nordica Corporation. He flew to France and made
> >> arrangements to bring back a sailboat. The first we imported was a
> >> Corsaire
> >> designed by Herbulot, a famous French designer. It sailed well, but did
> >> not
> >> hold up. It was made of plywood and the French were behind the United
> >> States in technology. I took one to the New York Boat Show which at the
> >> time was the only boat show going. And it was gigantic. I was in
> >> advertising so I wrote the copy and made up a brochure. Time magazine
> came
> >> by our booth and wrote us up. The show was mostly motorboats with very
> few
> >> sailboats?sailboats where just not that big at the time. My partners
> had a
> >> meeting after the show and told me that I was out. Something about me
> and
> >> my style didn?t sit well with them so they returned my initial $6,000
> >> investment and I was out of Nordica Corporation. Years later I ran into
> >> one
> >> of my old partners and he told me to not feel bad about being thrown out
> >> as
> >> they went out of business shortly after kicking me out and lost all
> their
> >> investment.
> >>
> >> *How did you move on from that disappointing start?*
> >>
> >> Well, I was hooked after that first boat show. But I had to start from
> >> scratch. The graphic artist I worked with at the agency said he liked
> >> sailboats, so together we formed General Boats in 1959 keeping our day
> >> jobs
> >> of course. This was way before Hunter and Catalina and we even beat
> O?Day
> >> into the business. About this time sailing was starting to take off so
> our
> >> timing was good.
> >>
> >> *How did you decide on the name General Boats?*
> >>
> >> I always thought big. So I looked around and said I?ll take the best
> name
> >> I
> >> can find. There was General Motors, General Electric, General Dynamics
> so
> >> I
> >> thought I would try General Boats. I was afraid somebody already had it,
> >> but they didn?t. It was free so we had our name.
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/e79f0a65-04fa-4e18-a533-f91a45c96834?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
> >> >
> >>
> >> *What was your first boat?*
> >>
> >> I sought out a naval architect I had heard of, Nils Lucander. Nils did
> not
> >> have a name in those days as he was just starting out. So I asked him to
> >> design a sailboat and he said sure I?ll do it and he did it for
> >> practically
> >> nothing. And so we came out with the Picnic 17. I wrote the copy for a
> >> brochure. The graphic artist I worked with did the artwork and it was a
> >> beautiful brochure. But the boat wasn?t so hot. From my point of view I
> >> wanted it to do everything to appeal to a broad market. We headlined it
> as
> >> a sailboat, motorboat, ski boat, fishing boat. And I found out people
> who
> >> came to the show didn?t know what to buy so they brought their experts
> >> with
> >> them who were sailors. And they would say it cannot be all those
> things; a
> >> sailboat is a sailboat and a motorboat is a motorboat. I was claiming
> too
> >> much.
> >>
> >> *Did you produce the Picnic 17?*
> >>
> >> No, producing as that was the last thing I wanted to do. I was smart
> >> enough
> >> to know not to get involved with building the boat, let somebody else do
> >> that. I was approached by Lofland Sail-Craft out of Wichita, Kansas.
> They
> >> sought me out and said they would like to build the Picnic 17 for me.
> >> Francis Lofland was a lovely guy and began producing the Picnic 17 for
> me.
> >> But I couldn?t get enough out of him. He had his own business building
> the
> >> Snipe and other boats, so I was at the bottom of the list. So I went to
> >> another company. I went to Ray Greene who was building the Rebel 16 and
> a
> >> line of boats. He started building the Picnic 17 for me, but the same
> >> thing
> >> happened: I couldn?t get enough. Ray Greene didn?t turn out a good boat.
> >> His own boats were okay, but I was not his priority. It was hard to get
> >> them to put their heart and soul into a product that wasn?t theirs. I
> went
> >> to another company in Nova Scotia, Industrial Shipping Company Limited,
> >> and
> >> they were wonderful. They got into building the Picnic 17 and built them
> >> fast and very well. But then the guy I was dealing with there, George
> >> McGovern, who was a very nice guy, died, ending my deal with that
> company
> >> as he was the guy who wanted to build the Picnic for me. It was one
> thing
> >> after another. So I decided at that point if I was going to stay in this
> >> business I have got to make a boat that has a reputation behind it. Nils
> >> Lucander would become a big name eventually, but at that point customers
> >> would ask who the Picnic was designed by and I would tell them Nils
> >> Lucander, but they never heard of him. So I had to get a name behind me.
> >>
> >> *How many Picnic 17s did you sell?*
> >>
> >> We ended up selling 350 which encouraged us to stay in the business, but
> >> we
> >> needed a name. Roger McGregor saw the Picnic 17 at a show and told me he
> >> liked the notion of a sailboat/motorboat. This was before he was
> building
> >> sailboats, but he put that idea back in his mind and eventually produced
> >> his own line of motorsailors. We became very good friends over the
> years.
> >> He was a very smart guy, top in his class at Stanford.
> >>
> >> *What came after the Picnic 17?*
> >>
> >> I needed something new. The naval architects in those days didn?t charge
> >> based upon their reputations but by the size of the boat they were
> >> designing. At that time the number one reputation belonged to Phillip
> >> Rhodes. So I decided that?s easy, you start at the top and when he says
> no
> >> you work your way down. His office was on Lexington Avenue also in New
> >> York
> >> City where I was living. So I made up some sketches and went and knocked
> >> on
> >> his door and he answered. There were lots of people working there, it
> was
> >> a
> >> big firm, but he answered the door. He looked down on me and said ?What
> do
> >> you want?? I said I would like you to design a boat for me. I showed him
> >> the sketches. At that time he would get a call from the Rockefellers
> >> saying
> >> hey Phil I need a 55-foot yacht, and he would design it for them. But
> >> there
> >> I was with sketches of a 22-foot boat and here is this guy a very well
> >> known, famous naval architect. And he said, ?You know what, I have not
> >> designed a smaller boat in a long time, I think I want to do this.? I
> >> almost fell over. And I worked with him a year in his office and I
> learned
> >> a lot about designing. Of course he would turn it over to somebody else
> >> and
> >> he would walk around like a school teacher making suggestions, changes
> and
> >> corrections.
> >>
> >> *Was it expensive to have the top naval architect of the time design
> your
> >> boat?*
> >>
> >> There were two ways you could work with Phillip Rhodes. You could say it
> >> was your product and pay a royalty on each hull produced, or you could
> say
> >> I?ll commission you and pay you a flat fee and it is my product. I said
> >> I?d
> >> rather own it outright and he said fine.
> >>
> >> *The Rhodes 22 has a very unique hull flare. Was that your idea or
> >> Phillip?s?*
> >>
> >> I was always looking at other boats and one was an Olympic racing boat,
> >> the
> >> 505. It had what was called an upside down wineglass shape to the hull.
> >> And
> >> so I wondered about that flare and started thinking about it from an
> >> engineering point of view. And it began to dawn on me it had a lot of
> >> advantages. First, it had a built in hiking seat. You could sit out on
> the
> >> flare beyond the hull itself, you could carry more sail and keep the
> boat
> >> flat, I liked that idea. Then I thought it also makes a very dry hull.
> In
> >> a
> >> regular sailboat the waves break over the side and into the cockpit, a
> >> wave
> >> hits the flare and goes out away from the cockpit?very dry. I looked at
> it
> >> more and recognized that because it was a compound curve instead of a
> >> simple curve, it would be very strong. So using the same fiberglass the
> >> other guys use I would have a much stronger hull. The sketches I gave to
> >> Phil had the flare and he told me he liked what I was doing, but he
> didn?t
> >> like the flare, ?That?s a motorboat, doesn?t look like a sailboat.? He
> >> didn?t like it, but I insisted and he said it was my money so I could go
> >> for it. After working on it a while Phil said the flare was growing on
> >> him.
> >> By the time he finished he said he liked it.
> >>
> >> *I have heard the boat referred to as the Rhodes Continental.*
> >>
> >> When I was first thinking about names the Lincoln Continental was a very
> >> popular automobile, so I tried Rhodes Continental, two big names. But I
> >> changed that not too long after to the Rhodes 22.
> >>
> >> *How was the Rhodes 22 received by the public?*
> >>
> >> I had a model made and brought it to the New York boat show, and when
> >> people saw it they either didn?t like it because it looked like a
> >> motorboat
> >> or they loved it; it was extremes. I didn?t need the whole market, I
> just
> >> needed a piece. It came out for $2,500. I put a big red ribbon around
> it.
> >> You got the boat, the sails, the cushions, the lines, everything. With
> all
> >> other sailboats everything was extra, the price sheet on sailboats in
> >> those
> >> days was pages. I came out with a price for the whole package and that
> >> worked. I started taking orders.
> >>
> >> *What year was that?*
> >>
> >> Phil designed the boat in 1968 and we began having them produced in
> 1970.
> >>
> >> *What do you most enjoy about the sailboat business?*
> >>
> >> The customers. My customers have all been wonderful. Well, once there
> was
> >> a
> >> guy who was a pain in the neck. He came to my office and I sat him down
> >> and
> >> got out my checkbook and started writing. He said what are you doing? I
> >> said I?m giving you your money back. He said I don?t want the money; I
> >> want
> >> your boat. So I told him to stop being such a pain in the neck and he
> >> agreed. And there was one other guy who liked the boat and bought it,
> but
> >> came back and said his family didn?t take to it and asked if I would
> take
> >> it back. I said yes I?ll give you all of your money back. He said you?ll
> >> give all my money back? I said sure. I don?t want anybody sailing the
> boat
> >> who isn?t happy with it. I always tell my customers that they are our
> >> sales
> >> force. We don?t sell through dealers. So you?ve got to be happy with the
> >> boat. If you are not happy, I?m not going to let you keep it.
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/b60057d0-8eb7-4aa2-a1b5-0b8cc1130f1b?j=eyJ1IjoiMXM2anh5In0.idUYEqiG8vYXmLoHe42WspKQfXHbopl4fq_FzkMXn20
> >> >
> >>
> >> *How many Rhodes 22s have been built?*
> >>
> >> 2,500. That is not an exact number as through the years we lost track
> of a
> >> few, but at least 2,500.
> >>
> >> *Tell me about your recycled boats?*
> >>
> >> As the sales of new boats dropped off I started thinking of ways to make
> >> up
> >> for it. So I came up with the recycled boat program. We would purchase
> >> older hulls, go completely over them, and sell them for much less than a
> >> new boat. And they look and perform like new boats. I have a boat out in
> >> the yard now that is 30 years old and a customer the other day thought
> it
> >> was new. The recycled boats kept us in business. But it was a
> double-edged
> >> sword as it hurt further the new boat business. But, we are still in
> >> business.
> >>
> >> *Are you the only builder that has a recycle program?*
> >>
> >> To my knowledge, yes. The reason it worked is that we sold direct. It
> >> would
> >> not work if you sold through dealers, which most builders do.
> >>
> >> *Did you go to Annapolis this year?*
> >>
> >> Yes, we were at the first show in1970 and have not missed a single show.
> >>
> >> *You have shown at every Annapolis Boat Show?*
> >>
> >> Yes, we?ve worked our way up from being way in the rear end of the show
> to
> >> what I call the prime corner location. We have shown at 45 shows and
> hope
> >> to make 50. *?SCA?*
> >>
> >> *Stan Spitzer and the Rhodes 22 have a very strong following of owners,
> >> known as Rhodies, who are fiercely loyal to Stan and the Rhodes 22. Stan
> >> is
> >> still selling new and recycled Rhodes 22s at his plant in Edenton, North
> >> Carolina. *
> >>
> >> *Jerry Thompson is an Information Systems professional who works and
> lives
> >> in eastern North Carolina. He learned to sail over 25 years ago at the
> >> Armed Forces Recreation Center, Lake Chiemsee, Germany. North Carolina?s
> >> milder winters keep Jerry on the water year round.*
> >>
> >> First appeared in issue #109
> >>
> >> Invite your friends and earn rewards
> >> If you enjoy Small Craft Advisor , share it with your friends and earn
> >> rewards when they subscribe.
> >>
> >> Invite Friends
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vbGVhZGVyYm9hcmQ_PSZyZWZlcnJlcl90b2tlbj0xczZqeHkmcj0xczZqeHkmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLWxlYWRlcmJvYXJkIiwicCI6MTQ3MTMwNTI4LCJzIjoxMDcxNTQ5LCJmIjpmYWxzZSwidSI6MTA3ODAxMjA2LCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.b-Ke62-3VrQg0bM2ECD962IdHabpbEmxB2vbqqRmLv8?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=postcta
> >> >
> >>
> >> Like
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&isFreemail=false&submitLike=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3MjIyNjk0NTgsImV4cCI6MTcyNDg2MTQ1OCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTEwNzE1NDkiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.c7R0hFQb9tVY9Tau6tBKUUupCKVSkyksSSesGpUuYks&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email-reaction&r=1s6jxy
> >> >
> >> Comment
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_id=1071549&post_id=147130528&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&isFreemail=false&comments=true&token=eyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsInBvc3RfaWQiOjE0NzEzMDUyOCwiaWF0IjoxNzIyMjY5NDU4LCJleHAiOjE3MjQ4NjE0NTgsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xMDcxNTQ5Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.RzPSfTkZ0qVeWN1uqzuaskskqBTcILWsKnBH9DfExUg&r=1s6jxy&utm_campaign=email-half-magic-comments&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
> >> >
> >> Restack
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.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.x2M6j7Ar8TyP7U0CczDNbT--wpEhhMTIKxbxyB0rs5E?&utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> ? 2024 Joshua Colvin
> >> PO Box 8958, Moscow, ID 83843
> >> Unsubscribe
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zbWFsbGNyYWZ0YWR2aXNvci5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vYWN0aW9uL2Rpc2FibGVfZW1haWw_dG9rZW49ZXlKMWMyVnlYMmxrSWpveE1EYzRNREV5TURZc0luQnZjM1JmYVdRaU9qRTBOekV6TURVeU9Dd2lhV0YwSWpveE56SXlNalk1TkRVNExDSmxlSEFpT2pFM05UTTRNRFUwTlRnc0ltbHpjeUk2SW5CMVlpMHhNRGN4TlRRNUlpd2ljM1ZpSWpvaVpHbHpZV0pzWlY5bGJXRnBiQ0o5LnQxUUxuWkxaeUk5UFZpZVdMT3pFYzk3MEx3Ui1wRVpzS3NsbjdybjdGZ3MiLCJwIjoxNDcxMzA1MjgsInMiOjEwNzE1NDksImYiOmZhbHNlLCJ1IjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsImlhdCI6MTcyMjI2OTQ1OCwiZXhwIjoxNzI0ODYxNDU4LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.deYcProfJ5Cv5s7Dvh9c_ldlRjU0n-EvOF6ptm-oLC4
> >> ?>
> >>
> >> [image: Start writing]
> >> <
> >>
> https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zdWJzdGFjay5jb20vc2lnbnVwP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9c3Vic3RhY2smdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1mb290ZXImdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWF1dG9maWxsZWQtZm9vdGVyJmZyZWVTaWdudXBFbWFpbD1tbS5iaXpsaXN0MUBnbWFpbC5jb20mcj0xczZqeHkiLCJwIjoxNDcxMzA1MjgsInMiOjEwNzE1NDksImYiOmZhbHNlLCJ1IjoxMDc4MDEyMDYsImlhdCI6MTcyMjI2OTQ1OCwiZXhwIjoxNzI0ODYxNDU4LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.vxyEt77C3j1e38EjCDWWdG_swz3LdnEB3R6zvjOAXWU
> >> ?>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 9
> >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 17:05:34 -0400
> >> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> >> To: Mike <boon_doggy at yahoo.com>,  The Rhodes 22 Email List
> >>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
> >> Message-ID:
> >>         <
> >> CAB-twMOXo8A2NnK5tEJ7EuTAc5BeGgmx2O0hfad_cBx8B_0oMQ at mail.gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >>
> >> Perhaps the previous owner tucked the loose end into the goose neck
> >> fitting, so it was not flapping loose during transport?
> >>
> >> Todd T.
> >>
> >> On Mon, Jul 29, 2024, 2:25 PM Mike via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> > It didn't make any sense to me either and the more I thought about it,
> >> the
> >> > more I think the shop just rigged it wrong.The forward (black) line on
> >> the
> >> > boom car would make more sense running through the holes in the furler
> >> in
> >> > the mast, but I've got to order a new car before I can mess with it.
> >> >
> >> > Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
> >> >
> >> >   On Mon, Jul 29, 2024 at 8:22 AM, PBR<pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >  Mike,
> >> > I don't think there is any reason why the topping lift should go
> >> anywhere
> >> > near the boom carriage.  I have experience with two boats and it just
> >> runs
> >> > from the boom end to top of mast, back down to a turning block on the
> >> cabin
> >> > top, then to a cam cleat near the back edge of the cabin top.
> >> > Patrick
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 10
> >> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:16:18 +0000
> >> From: Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >> Message-ID:
> >>         <
> >>
> SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02 at SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM
> >> >
> >>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >>
> >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached
> >> a picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section of
> >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create a
> >> large hole.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Rhodes 22
> >> Agile, 1976
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>
> >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
> >>
> >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Mike McKay
> >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 89771 bytes
> >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment.jpe
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 11
> >> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 15:47:01 +0000
> >> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >> Message-ID:
> >>         <
> >>
> MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> >> >
> >>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory
> >> OEM lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate
> into
> >> the plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by
> installing 4
> >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> >> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached
> >> a picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section of
> >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create a
> >> large hole.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Rhodes 22
> >> Agile, 1976
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>
> >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> inside.
> >>
> >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Mike McKay
> >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 89771 bytes
> >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >> URL: <
> >>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0
> >> <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment.jpe
> >> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 12
> >> Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:58:29 -0400
> >> From: Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Conversation with Stan Spitzer
> >> Message-ID: <504CE75E-0E2C-4599-A9E1-BCB7C09CB1F5 at gma
> <504CE75E-0E2C-4599-A9E1-BCB7C09CB1F5 at gmail.com>

From koatimundi100 at gmail.com  Mon Aug  5 19:56:17 2024
From: koatimundi100 at gmail.com (peter klappert)
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2024 19:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (reply to Chris G)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2296.1722899536.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
References: <mailman.2296.1722899536.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Message-ID: <CAEZbNGC_KNFFTCU8uBEz5QBHJzmkh941SGx2OAtWW-_YDY9jeQ@mail.gmail.com>

Stan?s team did a good job installing the Air Head, but I should br honest
and say it?s never actually been used. I?ve only been a day sailer and
everyone has been comfortable waiting til we get back to the dock. The Air
Head is taller than a marine toilet, but you just open the hatch above it
and enjoy the view. Or that?s the theory.



*>>>>>>>>>  *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*

*Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*





On Mon, Aug 5, 2024 at 7:20?PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
>         rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Todd Tavares)
>    2. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>    3. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Todd Tavares)
>    4. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>       (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
>    5. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Scott Andrews)
>    6. Re: head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4576), Issue
>       1 (Chris Geankoplis)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 19:21:55 -0400
> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Mike,
>
> Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the lower
> shroud chainplates.
> He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting the
> chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out without
> cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
>
> You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Roger and Todd,
> >
> > Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
> > the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> > anything.
> >
> > The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> > the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> > chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> case,
> > he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need
> to
> > do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >
> > In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> > there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >
> > A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> > backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
> > cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> > Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> > inspection port.
> >
> > Is the above description correct?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > ROGER
> > PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> > liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
> > the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> > goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
> > outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> peasy,
> > it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
> > inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> > screws
> > + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> > inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
> > you
> > will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> > want.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open
> > up
> > the cabin liner?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > ROGER
> > PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> > the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> > lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> > plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> > Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> > inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> > the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> > trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> > especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> > upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Graham
> > Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> > a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> > picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section
> of
> > the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create
> a
> > large hole.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Rhodes 22
> > Agile, 1976
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Hi Rhodies,
> >
> > I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >
> > It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > inside.
> >
> > Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >
> > Thank you!
> >
> > Mike McKay
> > S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > Allatoona Lake, GA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael McKay
> > (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 89771 bytes
> > Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > URL:
> > <
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or
> >
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> > <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >
> >
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> > http://r
> >
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > .jpe>>
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 01:40:28 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID:
>         <
> MN2PR10MB428849A47AE19B9611EA4C7380BD2 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Todd,
>
> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Mike,
> >
> > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> lower
> > shroud chainplates.
> > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> the
> > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> without
> > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> >
> > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Roger and Todd,
> >>
> >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>
> >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> case,
> >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need to
> >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>
> >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>
> >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> >> inspection port.
> >>
> >> Is the above description correct?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> peasy,
> >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all
> 4
> >> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> >> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But,
> >> you
> >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> >> want.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> open
> >> up
> >> the cabin liner?
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> >> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> >> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> >> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section of
> >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create a
> >> large hole.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Rhodes 22
> >> Agile, 1976
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>
> >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>
> >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Mike McKay
> >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 89771 bytes
> >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >> URL:
> >> <
> >> http://rhodes22.or/
> >>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> >>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >> .jpe>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 23:15:59 -0400
> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID:
>         <CAB-twMO5ugs4A=
> 0yap0yvZWFBgPAy9O_2WqS00uZRg48ocy5_Q at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Roger,
>
> Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> tried to download but stalled.
>
> I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> other...especially better than my way.
>
> When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
> > you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Mike,
> > >
> > > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> > lower
> > > shroud chainplates.
> > > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> > the
> > > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> > without
> > > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> > >
> > > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Roger and Todd,
> > >>
> > >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> > understand
> > >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> > >> anything.
> > >>
> > >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> > inside
> > >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> > >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> > case,
> > >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> > need to
> > >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> > >>
> > >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> > Was
> > >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling
> liner?
> > >>
> > >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> > >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> > the
> > >> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> > plate.
> > >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin
> as
> > an
> > >> inspection port.
> > >>
> > >> Is the above description correct?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Mike
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the
> cabin
> > >> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> > Remove
> > >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> > >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> > the
> > >> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> > peasy,
> > >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all
> > 4
> > >> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> > >> screws
> > >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> > Beckson
> > >> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> > >> you
> > >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates
> whenever
> > you
> > >> want.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> > open
> > >> up
> > >> the cabin liner?
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> > were
> > >> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory
> OEM
> > >> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> > the
> > >> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> > Defender
> > >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> > >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> > thru
> > >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> > not
> > >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> > component,
> > >> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> > this
> > >> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Graham
> > >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> > with
> > >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached a
> > >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> > section of
> > >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> > create a
> > >> large hole.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Graham Stewart
> > >> Rhodes 22
> > >> Agile, 1976
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi Rhodies,
> > >>
> > >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> > >>
> > >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > >> inside.
> > >>
> > >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> > >>
> > >> Thank you!
> > >>
> > >> Mike McKay
> > >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Michael McKay
> > >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 89771 bytes
> > >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> URL:
> > >> <
> > >> http://rhodes22.or/
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> > >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> > >> http://r
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > >> .jpe>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 12:27:53 -0400
> From: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID: <005601dae68b$41aab4c0$c5001e40$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="utf-8"
>
> Thank you again Todd and Roger for helping me plan this project.  I will
> take pictures and do a write up to consolidate all this advice into a
> single document.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Todd Tavares
> Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 11:16 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Roger,
>
> Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> tried to download but stalled.
>
> I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> other...especially better than my way.
>
> When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
> > you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Mike,
> > >
> > > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> > lower
> > > shroud chainplates.
> > > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> > the
> > > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> > without
> > > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> > >
> > > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Roger and Todd,
> > >>
> > >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> > understand
> > >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> > >> anything.
> > >>
> > >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> > inside
> > >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> > >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> > case,
> > >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> > need to
> > >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> > >>
> > >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> > Was
> > >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling
> liner?
> > >>
> > >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> > >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> > the
> > >> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> > plate.
> > >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin
> as
> > an
> > >> inspection port.
> > >>
> > >> Is the above description correct?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Mike
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the
> cabin
> > >> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> > Remove
> > >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> > >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> > the
> > >> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> > peasy,
> > >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all
> > 4
> > >> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> > >> screws
> > >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> > Beckson
> > >> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> > >> you
> > >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates
> whenever
> > you
> > >> want.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> > open
> > >> up
> > >> the cabin liner?
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> > were
> > >> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory
> OEM
> > >> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> > the
> > >> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> > Defender
> > >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> > >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> > thru
> > >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> > not
> > >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> > component,
> > >> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> > this
> > >> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Graham
> > >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> > with
> > >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached a
> > >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> > section of
> > >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> > create a
> > >> large hole.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Graham Stewart
> > >> Rhodes 22
> > >> Agile, 1976
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi Rhodies,
> > >>
> > >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> > >>
> > >> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > >> inside.
> > >>
> > >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> > >>
> > >> Thank you!
> > >>
> > >> Mike McKay
> > >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Michael McKay
> > >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 89771 bytes
> > >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> URL:
> > >> <
> > >> http://rhodes22.or/
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> > >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> > >> http://r
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > >> .jpe>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 15:31:33 -0400
> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID: <2A3BAC3F-7EE8-434E-BA53-DC74CB663407 at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Great information! I continue to be amazed by the wonderful sharing among
> owners. Thanks to all.
> Scott & Rebecca
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 4, 2024, at 12:27?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > ?Thank you again Todd and Roger for helping me plan this project.  I
> will take pictures and do a write up to consolidate all this advice into a
> single document.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Todd Tavares
> > Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 11:16 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Roger,
> >
> > Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> > tried to download but stalled.
> >
> > I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> > other...especially better than my way.
> >
> > When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> > cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> >> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Todd,
> >>
> >> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment.  Doesn?t that work anymore?  If
> >> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Mike,
> >>>
> >>> Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> >> lower
> >>> shroud chainplates.
> >>> He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> >> the
> >>> chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> >>> removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> >> without
> >>> cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> >>>
> >>> You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> >>> reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> >>>
> >>> Todd T.
> >>>
> >>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger and Todd,
> >>>>
> >>>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> >> understand
> >>>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >>>> anything.
> >>>>
> >>>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> >> inside
> >>>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> >>>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> >> case,
> >>>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >>>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> >> need to
> >>>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>>>
> >>>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> >> Was
> >>>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling
> liner?
> >>>>
> >>>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >>>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >>>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> >> the
> >>>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> >> plate.
> >>>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin
> as
> >> an
> >>>> inspection port.
> >>>>
> >>>> Is the above description correct?
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >>>> ROGER
> >>>> PIHLAJA
> >>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the
> cabin
> >>>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> >> Remove
> >>>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >>>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> >>>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> >> the
> >>>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> >> peasy,
> >>>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all
> >> 4
> >>>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >>>> screws
> >>>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> >> Beckson
> >>>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> >>>> you
> >>>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates
> whenever
> >> you
> >>>> want.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> >> open
> >>>> up
> >>>> the cabin liner?
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >>>> ROGER
> >>>> PIHLAJA
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi All,
> >>>>
> >>>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were
> >>>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory
> OEM
> >>>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> >> the
> >>>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >>>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> >> Defender
> >>>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> >>>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> >> thru
> >>>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> >> not
> >>>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> >> component,
> >>>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> >> this
> >>>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> Graham
> >>>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with
> >>>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached a
> >>>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> >> section of
> >>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> >> create a
> >>>> large hole.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Graham Stewart
> >>>> Rhodes 22
> >>>> Agile, 1976
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi Rhodies,
> >>>>
> >>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>>>
> >>>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >>>> inside.
> >>>>
> >>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>>>
> >>>> Thank you!
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike McKay
> >>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Michael McKay
> >>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >>>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>>> Size: 89771 bytes
> >>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >>>> URL:
> >>>> <
> >>>> http://rhodes22.or/
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >>>> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >>>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >>>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >>>> http://r
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >>>> .jpe>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2024 19:12:00 -0400
> From: Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest,
>         Vol 4576), Issue 1
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CADNTwiWDCm44Kd8LgKCe+kFvKAzzRuiqMhGj15_xSE4jPTL12A at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Got it Peter!  I saw the installation, very neat.
>
> On Sun, Aug 4, 2024 at 1:40?AM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I sent this at the end of July but haven?t seen it. In case I screwed up
> > when sending (I frequently screw up things digital), here it is again .
> >
> > On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 4:25?PM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I was the first?possibly the only?Rhodie who substituted an Airhead
> > > composting head for the marine toilet and holding tank. (My R22 is kept
> > on
> > > a lift at my dock: I didn?t want to have to find a pump out station.)
> It
> > > has a vent tube with a small computer fan, tho I doubt that affords
> much
> > > head ventilation.
> > >       But I also had Stan install a solar fan (rechargeable batteries)
> in
> > > the deck over the v-berth, way up in the bow. It pushes a great deal of
> > air
> > > through the whole cabin. With the sliding panel between the v-berth and
> > > head pushed open (ie to port) it keeps the head well-ventilated and
> > >
> > indeed, it ventilates the whole cabin).
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > *>>>>>>>>>  *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*
> > >
> > > *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:58?PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
> > >>         rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > >>
> > >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > >>         http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> > >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > >>         rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
> > >>
> > >> You can reach the person managing the list at
> > >>         rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
> > >>
> > >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > >> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Today's Topics:
> > >>
> > >>    1. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
> > >>    2. Re: Head ventilation (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> > >>    3. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Michael McKay)
> > >>    4. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
> > >>    5. Re: Boom Rigging Question (PBR)
> > >>    6. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Mike)
> > >>    7. Re: Head ventilation (Mary Lou Troy)
> > >>    8. Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Michael McKay)
> > >>    9. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Todd Tavares)
> > >>   10. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Graham Stewart)
> > >>   11. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> > >>   12. Re: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Frank Goldsmith)
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 1
> > >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 18:05:22 -0400
> > >> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> > >> Message-ID: <216AD1F0-4896-4812-9618-48135BA84B45 at verizon.net>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >>
> > >> Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 110591 bytes
> > >> Desc: not available
> > >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> > >> >
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> > >> rebuilt the
> > >> > interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> > >> bilge
> > >> > pumps. More headroom would be nice
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> > Mweisner at ebsmed.com
> > >> >
> > >> >> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Mike
> > >> >> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >> >> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> > >> >>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
> > >> want
> > >> >> to
> > >> >>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> > stuff
> > >> >> I'm
> > >> >>> really jealous of!
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> they're
> > >> all
> > >> >>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> > hatch
> > >> >>> over
> > >> >>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> > that
> > >> >> are
> > >> >>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> > >> worried
> > >> >>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> be
> > >> >>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> be
> > >> >> better
> > >> >>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> you
> > >> some
> > >> >>> headroom! Thanks!
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 2
> > >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 22:23:10 +0000
> > >> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > >>         <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> > >> Message-ID:
> > >>         <
> > >>
> >
> MN2PR10MB42886A2EAACCF5F9D2A2AC1C80B62 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
> > like
> > >> to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
> > >> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
> > represent a
> > >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the
> mast.
> > >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can
> be
> > cut
> > >> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
> > the
> > >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> > any
> > >> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this
> issue
> > >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I
> advise
> > >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> > if
> > >> you weaken it too much.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> > >> > -------------- next part --------------
> > >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> > Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> > Type: image/jpeg
> > >> > Size: 110591 bytes
> > >> > Desc: not available
> > >> > URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> > >> >
> > >> > -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> > >> rebuilt the
> > >> >> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> > >> bilge
> > >> >> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> > >> >>
> > >> >>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> > >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > >> >>> wrote:
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> Mike
> > >> >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >> >>> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> > >> >>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods
> that I
> > >> want
> > >> >>> to
> > >> >>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> > >> stuff
> > >> >>> I'm
> > >> >>>> really jealous of!
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> > they're
> > >> all
> > >> >>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> > >> hatch
> > >> >>>> over
> > >> >>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> > >> that
> > >> >>> are
> > >> >>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> > >> worried
> > >> >>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> > be
> > >> >>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> be
> > >> >>> better
> > >> >>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> > you
> > >> some
> > >> >>>> headroom! Thanks!
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 3
> > >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 23:11:15 -0400
> > >> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
> > >> Message-ID: <3E65320C-991D-4057-B001-D79B5C544C06 at gmail.com>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > >>
> > >> Mike, on my boat the topping lift runs down outside the mast to a
> block
> > >> on the port cabin top near the hand rail and then back through a cam
> > cleat
> > >> at the cockpit, similar to the jib furling line.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Michael McKay
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 7:35?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Mike,
> > >> >
> > >> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so
> complex.
> > >> On my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
> > >> masthead.  I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and
> attached
> > it
> > >> to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom.  Now, if you want to
> > adjust
> > >> the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head.  This
> > is at
> > >> least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter
> with
> > >> less windage too.  Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble
> and
> > >> effort to rebuild the factory setup.
> > >> >
> > >> > Roger Pihlaja
> > >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> ?Hello everyone!
> > >> >>
> > >> >> My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
> > >> Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
> > that
> > >> time.
> > >> >> I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last,
> two-year
> > >> delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler,
> and
> > >> then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
> > >> >> I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the
> boom
> > >> lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
> > make
> > >> any sense.
> > >> >> I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
> > >> just rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat
> > because it
> > >> was Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
> > >> >> Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes.
> > It's
> > >> an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
> > >> >> The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at
> the
> > >> top of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
> > >> manual. However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the
> > IMF
> > >> rotating shaft.
> > >> >> I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can
> > visualize
> > >> it.
> > >> >> Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and
> it's
> > >> been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black
> lines
> > on
> > >> the bottom of the boom.
> > >> >> At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
> > >> still order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and
> is
> > >> routed thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure
> > things
> > >> out.
> > >> >> Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would
> > make
> > >> sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight.
> "Seems..."
> > >> >> Any help would be much appreciated.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Mike Blagg
> > >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> >> Name: sail rigging.jpg
> > >> >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> >> Size: 69185 bytes
> > >> >> Desc: not available
> > >> >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 4
> > >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:21:20 -0400
> > >> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> > >> To: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> > >> Message-ID: <8602DCF2-A4C3-4B30-AAD8-21C7857737E0 at verizon.net>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > >>
> > >> Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
> > >> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the
> hatches.
> > >> Scott A.
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Hi All,
> > >> >
> > >> > Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask.  I would
> > >> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when
> GBI
> > >> implemented those 2 opening hatches.  Those 2 hatches together
> > represent a
> > >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the
> mast.
> > >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can
> be
> > cut
> > >> into it without compromising the structure?  If Stan had to reinforce
> > the
> > >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> > any
> > >> advertisement that I saw.  I wish there was someone to ask re this
> issue
> > >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?.  Scott, I
> advise
> > >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> > if
> > >> you weaken it too much.
> > >> >
> > >> > Roger Pihlaja
> > >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> > >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> >> Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> >> Size: 110591 bytes
> > >> >> Desc: not available
> > >> >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> > >> >
> > >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >>
> > >> >>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> > >> rebuilt the
> > >> >>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have
> multiple
> > >> bilge
> > >> >>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> > >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > >> >>>> wrote:
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> Mike
> > >> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> > >> >>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods
> that
> > I
> > >> want
> > >> >>>> to
> > >> >>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> > >> stuff
> > >> >>>> I'm
> > >> >>>>> really jealous of!
> > >> >>>>>
> > >> >>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> > >> they're all
> > >> >>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> > >> hatch
> > >> >>>>> over
> > >> >>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find
> hatches
> > >> that
> > >> >>>> are
> > >> >>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> > >> worried
> > >> >>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> > >> >>>>>
> > >> >>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they
> can
> > be
> > >> >>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> > be
> > >> >>>> better
> > >> >>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> > >> you so

From colealexander at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 14 13:47:21 2024
From: colealexander at hotmail.com (Alexander Cole)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2024 17:47:21 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
Message-ID: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

For the first time nothing broke after a week cruising on Erie.  So  instead  I bent up the gooseneck of my IMF and broke the bolt attaching it to the plastic sled Sunday on a reservoir Sunday.    I?ve not had a response from the parts website and the number is dead.    
I think the failure relates to a vang I added to the pivot bolt.   It was light wind with strong random gusts, so the boom was in the lower position and the vang did not form a 45 45 90 triangle.   There must have been significant occasional  stresses.   
I can heat and rebend the metal but fear loss of strength.    I need post general boat solutions.    I think Stan modified a Ronstan racing dinghy gooseneck  that is out of production.   Holt Allan has a sliding gooseneck that looks interesting if it could be made to work.   Anybody have insight?

Alex Cole
SV Lark

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Wed Aug 14 18:46:39 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2024 18:46:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVj-ewYx4Agf3k_SRS-1S+rygxzxMdHk4VHNONZw6rN7A@mail.gmail.com>

Hang in there Alex. I can?t answer your question but you can bet on some
knowledgeable answers soon.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 1:47?PM Alexander Cole <colealexander at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> For the first time nothing broke after a week cruising on Erie.  So
> instead  I bent up the gooseneck of my IMF and broke the bolt attaching it
> to the plastic sled Sunday on a reservoir Sunday.    I?ve not had a
> response from the parts website and the number is dead.
> I think the failure relates to a vang I added to the pivot bolt.   It was
> light wind with strong random gusts, so the boom was in the lower position
> and the vang did not form a 45 45 90 triangle.   There must have been
> significant occasional  stresses.
> I can heat and rebend the metal but fear loss of strength.    I need post
> general boat solutions.    I think Stan modified a Ronstan racing dinghy
> gooseneck  that is out of production.   Holt Allan has a sliding gooseneck
> that looks interesting if it could be made to work.   Anybody have insight?
>
> Alex Cole
> SV Lark

From melrothbard at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 14 23:28:53 2024
From: melrothbard at yahoo.com (Melvyn Rothbard)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2024 03:28:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiVj-ewYx4Agf3k_SRS-1S+rygxzxMdHk4VHNONZw6rN7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
 <CADNTwiVj-ewYx4Agf3k_SRS-1S+rygxzxMdHk4VHNONZw6rN7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <88168998.7993535.1723692533507@mail.yahoo.com>

AlexIf it is the gooseneck, I broke mine a couple of years ago.? Peter Nyberg posted a short video a while back on how to disassemble and reassemble the gooseneck.? After viewing the video I contacted Dwyer , the company that produces the IFM mast for Stan.? Their parts guy was really helpful in supplying the parts I needed to rebuild the gooseneck.
Mel RothbardPaperclipper?Long Beach Island, NJ

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
 
  On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 11:01 PM, Chris Geankoplis<chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:   Hang in there Alex. I can?t answer your question but you can bet on some
knowledgeable answers soon.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 1:47?PM Alexander Cole <colealexander at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> For the first time nothing broke after a week cruising on Erie.? So
> instead? I bent up the gooseneck of my IMF and broke the bolt attaching it
> to the plastic sled Sunday on a reservoir Sunday.? ? I?ve not had a
> response from the parts website and the number is dead.
> I think the failure relates to a vang I added to the pivot bolt.? It was
> light wind with strong random gusts, so the boom was in the lower position
> and the vang did not form a 45 45 90 triangle.? There must have been
> significant occasional? stresses.
> I can heat and rebend the metal but fear loss of strength.? ? I need post
> general boat solutions.? ? I think Stan modified a Ronstan racing dinghy
> gooseneck? that is out of production.? Holt Allan has a sliding gooseneck
> that looks interesting if it could be made to work.? Anybody have insight?
>
> Alex Cole
> SV Lark
  

From colealexander at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 15 13:19:03 2024
From: colealexander at hotmail.com (Alexander Cole)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2024 17:19:03 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re Support and gooseneck
Message-ID: <BY5PR02MB6259D649946471DFE3ECFB13A6802@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks.   Charles did get a hold of me and will have parts on hand.  Meanwhile I spent a couple hours with a torch and hammer yesterday, reforming the metal as a temporary repair, so I avoided down time.

Alex



From davidmberg at mac.com  Thu Aug 15 16:39:43 2024
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2024 15:39:43 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
In-Reply-To: <88168998.7993535.1723692533507@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
 <CADNTwiVj-ewYx4Agf3k_SRS-1S+rygxzxMdHk4VHNONZw6rN7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <88168998.7993535.1723692533507@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <010001daef53$43871060$ca953120$@mac.com>

I'm +1 on wanting to replace my gooseneck parts. The original is undersized and weak, and mine is all bent up but still functioning. If someone has part numbers for stronger Dwyer replacement parts, I'd like the list of parts.

David Berg
Blue Loon 
1996/2003
Minneapolis

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Melvyn Rothbard via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2024 10:29 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck

AlexIf it is the gooseneck, I broke mine a couple of years ago.  Peter Nyberg posted a short video a while back on how to disassemble and reassemble the gooseneck.  After viewing the video I contacted Dwyer , the company that produces the IFM mast for Stan.  Their parts guy was really helpful in supplying the parts I needed to rebuild the gooseneck.
Mel RothbardPaperclipper Long Beach Island, NJ

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
 
  On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 11:01 PM, Chris Geankoplis<chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:   Hang in there Alex. I can?t answer your question but you can bet on some
knowledgeable answers soon.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 1:47?PM Alexander Cole <colealexander at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> For the first time nothing broke after a week cruising on Erie.  So 
> instead  I bent up the gooseneck of my IMF and broke the bolt 
> attaching it to the plastic sled Sunday on a reservoir Sunday.    I?ve 
> not had a response from the parts website and the number is dead.
> I think the failure relates to a vang I added to the pivot bolt.  It 
> was light wind with strong random gusts, so the boom was in the lower 
> position and the vang did not form a 45 45 90 triangle.  There must 
> have been significant occasional  stresses.
> I can heat and rebend the metal but fear loss of strength.    I need 
> post general boat solutions.    I think Stan modified a Ronstan racing 
> dinghy gooseneck  that is out of production.  Holt Allan has a sliding 
> gooseneck that looks interesting if it could be made to work.  Anybody have insight?
>
> Alex Cole
> SV Lark
  


From davidmberg at mac.com  Fri Aug 16 15:59:02 2024
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2024 14:59:02 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
In-Reply-To: <F2F90F8A-25F3-4033-8365-6FEB78C1867A@icloud.com>
References: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
 <CADNTwiVj-ewYx4Agf3k_SRS-1S+rygxzxMdHk4VHNONZw6rN7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <88168998.7993535.1723692533507@mail.yahoo.com>
 <010001daef53$43871060$ca953120$@mac.com>
 <F2F90F8A-25F3-4033-8365-6FEB78C1867A@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <E5FFD81C-7606-4B3F-9FE9-10B875A9F829@mac.com>

Great! Thanks for that!

> On Aug 15, 2024, at 3:57 PM, Robert Allen <rca1000 at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
>       Here?s the info from Peter Nyberg on the parts plus he has a youtube video (Silverheels , Ep 38 on how to do it)  iv?ve  got my parts but waiting to derig first.  Good luck
> 
> 
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> 
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Parts
> Date: April 9, 2024 at 4:30:42?PM EDT
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'm pretty sure that 'gooseneck' is the correct technical term.
> 
> A few years ago, I also found my gooseneck parts all bent out of shape.  I managed to find parts to rebuild it stronger than before, and made a YouTube video about the process: https://youtu.be/z_pg6PVEZqI
> 
> I got the key parts from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company (https://www.dwyermast.com).  They are the original manufacturer of most Rhodes 22 standing rigging.  In the video I walk through how to find the parts on their website.  Unfortunately, since then the company was sold, and the website has changed, and it no longer has a break-down of gooseneck parts.  There have been reports that Dwyer people have been very helpful on the phone.
> 
> I also got a few bolts from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com).
> 
> A breakdown of the parts follows:
> 
> Dwyer      1  DH-334   Heavy Duty Universal
> Dwyer      2  DH-3143 Heavy Duty U-Bracket
> Dwyer      2  ?            Pins 
> McMaster  1  98164A306  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 1 1/2"
> McMaster  1  98164A317  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 2 1/2"
> Anywhere 1  3/8" nylock nut
> 
> Best of luck, and please let us know how things work out.
> 
> BTW, thanks for updating your profile on rhodes22.net, including boat information and an avatar!
> 
> --Peter
>> On Aug 15, 2024, at 4:39?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm +1 on wanting to replace my gooseneck parts. The original is undersized and weak, and mine is all bent up but still functioning. If someone has part numbers for stronger Dwyer replacement parts, I'd like the list of parts.
>> 
>> David Berg
>> Blue Loon 
>> 1996/2003
>> Minneapolis
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Melvyn Rothbard via Rhodes22-list
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2024 10:29 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
>> 
>> AlexIf it is the gooseneck, I broke mine a couple of years ago.  Peter Nyberg posted a short video a while back on how to disassemble and reassemble the gooseneck.  After viewing the video I contacted Dwyer , the company that produces the IFM mast for Stan.  Their parts guy was really helpful in supplying the parts I needed to rebuild the gooseneck.
>> Mel RothbardPaperclipper Long Beach Island, NJ
>> 
>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
>> 
>>  On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 11:01 PM, Chris Geankoplis<chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:   Hang in there Alex. I can?t answer your question but you can bet on some
>> knowledgeable answers soon.
>> 
>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 1:47?PM Alexander Cole <colealexander at hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> For the first time nothing broke after a week cruising on Erie.  So 
>>> instead  I bent up the gooseneck of my IMF and broke the bolt 
>>> attaching it to the plastic sled Sunday on a reservoir Sunday.    I?ve 
>>> not had a response from the parts website and the number is dead.
>>> I think the failure relates to a vang I added to the pivot bolt.  It 
>>> was light wind with strong random gusts, so the boom was in the lower 
>>> position and the vang did not form a 45 45 90 triangle.  There must 
>>> have been significant occasional  stresses.
>>> I can heat and rebend the metal but fear loss of strength.    I need 
>>> post general boat solutions.    I think Stan modified a Ronstan racing 
>>> dinghy gooseneck  that is out of production.  Holt Allan has a sliding 
>>> gooseneck that looks interesting if it could be made to work.  Anybody have insight?
>>> 
>>> Alex Cole
>>> SV Lark
>> 
>> 
> 


From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 17 11:31:06 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2024 11:31:06 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
In-Reply-To: <E5FFD81C-7606-4B3F-9FE9-10B875A9F829@mac.com>
References: <BY5PR02MB6259E9F16191CE2AF99AA251A6872@BY5PR02MB6259.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
 <CADNTwiVj-ewYx4Agf3k_SRS-1S+rygxzxMdHk4VHNONZw6rN7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <88168998.7993535.1723692533507@mail.yahoo.com>
 <010001daef53$43871060$ca953120$@mac.com>
 <F2F90F8A-25F3-4033-8365-6FEB78C1867A@icloud.com>
 <E5FFD81C-7606-4B3F-9FE9-10B875A9F829@mac.com>
Message-ID: <027e01daf0ba$7a2a3260$6e7e9720$@gmail.com>

Hi Dave,

I rebuilt my gooseneck recently using Peter's excellent video for guidance, and got the following parts from Dyer:

Qty	Part No	Description
2	DH3143	U Bracket, Heavy
1	DH334		Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", L
2	CR1		Ring, Rigging, 3/4" x .048"
2	CLP-4-0.984	Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/8"

I got the required stainless steel bolts from Ace:

1			2-1/2" x 3/8" hex bolt with 1" thread (no nut is required. I bought 1 extra for a spare)
1			1-1/2" x 5/16" button head bolt with 5/16" nylon lock nut

I didn't have the tools needed to accurately drill a 3/16" hole in the 2-1/2" hex bolt, so I had a local machinist do it for me.  If you currently have two through bolts holding the old gooseneck fork, you will actually only need one of them to secure the 2-1/2" bolt, which makes the process a bit easier.  (My boom only had one retaining bolt.)

Good luck with your project!


Mike McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)
Allatoona Lake
Acworth, GA




-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2024 3:59 PM
To: Rhodes22-list Rod Ellner via <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck

Great! Thanks for that!

> On Aug 15, 2024, at 3:57 PM, Robert Allen <rca1000 at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
>       Here?s the info from Peter Nyberg on the parts plus he has a youtube video (Silverheels , Ep 38 on how to do it)  iv?ve  got my parts but waiting to derig first.  Good luck
> 
> 
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> 
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Parts
> Date: April 9, 2024 at 4:30:42?PM EDT
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'm pretty sure that 'gooseneck' is the correct technical term.
> 
> A few years ago, I also found my gooseneck parts all bent out of shape.  I managed to find parts to rebuild it stronger than before, and made a YouTube video about the process: https://youtu.be/z_pg6PVEZqI
> 
> I got the key parts from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company (https://www.dwyermast.com).  They are the original manufacturer of most Rhodes 22 standing rigging.  In the video I walk through how to find the parts on their website.  Unfortunately, since then the company was sold, and the website has changed, and it no longer has a break-down of gooseneck parts.  There have been reports that Dwyer people have been very helpful on the phone.
> 
> I also got a few bolts from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com).
> 
> A breakdown of the parts follows:
> 
> Dwyer      1  DH-334   Heavy Duty Universal
> Dwyer      2  DH-3143 Heavy Duty U-Bracket
> Dwyer      2  ?            Pins 
> McMaster  1  98164A306  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 1 1/2"
> McMaster  1  98164A317  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 2 1/2"
> Anywhere 1  3/8" nylock nut
> 
> Best of luck, and please let us know how things work out.
> 
> BTW, thanks for updating your profile on rhodes22.net, including boat information and an avatar!
> 
> --Peter
>> On Aug 15, 2024, at 4:39?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm +1 on wanting to replace my gooseneck parts. The original is undersized and weak, and mine is all bent up but still functioning. If someone has part numbers for stronger Dwyer replacement parts, I'd like the list of parts.
>> 
>> David Berg
>> Blue Loon 
>> 1996/2003
>> Minneapolis
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Melvyn Rothbard via Rhodes22-list
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2024 10:29 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Support and gooseneck
>> 
>> AlexIf it is the gooseneck, I broke mine a couple of years ago.  Peter Nyberg posted a short video a while back on how to disassemble and reassemble the gooseneck.  After viewing the video I contacted Dwyer , the company that produces the IFM mast for Stan.  Their parts guy was really helpful in supplying the parts I needed to rebuild the gooseneck.
>> Mel RothbardPaperclipper Long Beach Island, NJ
>> 
>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
>> 
>>  On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 11:01 PM, Chris Geankoplis<chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:   Hang in there Alex. I can?t answer your question but you can bet on some
>> knowledgeable answers soon.
>> 
>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 1:47?PM Alexander Cole <colealexander at hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> For the first time nothing broke after a week cruising on Erie.  So 
>>> instead  I bent up the gooseneck of my IMF and broke the bolt 
>>> attaching it to the plastic sled Sunday on a reservoir Sunday.    I?ve 
>>> not had a response from the parts website and the number is dead.
>>> I think the failure relates to a vang I added to the pivot bolt.  It 
>>> was light wind with strong random gusts, so the boom was in the lower 
>>> position and the vang did not form a 45 45 90 triangle.  There must 
>>> have been significant occasional  stresses.
>>> I can heat and rebend the metal but fear loss of strength.    I need 
>>> post general boat solutions.    I think Stan modified a Ronstan racing 
>>> dinghy gooseneck  that is out of production.  Holt Allan has a sliding 
>>> gooseneck that looks interesting if it could be made to work.  Anybody have insight?
>>> 
>>> Alex Cole
>>> SV Lark
>> 
>> 
> 



From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 17 14:22:52 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2024 14:22:52 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3C1F1D38-B3A1-49D6-A6E7-A3CEE9A26193@gmail.com>
 <SA1P222MB11407E7E6406E1B6B860EAE2F5B02@SA1P222MB1140.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <MN2PR10MB4288347DE760F88DF97F00E780B02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <026b01dae4fa$bfab1c30$3f015490$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428899E2A46BDA157674D70780B32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <02a801daf0d2$7973c6c0$6c5b5440$@gmail.com>

Roger,

I was planning on epoxying a 1/4" thick G10 backing plate to the inside of
the outer wall of the cabin as a reinforcement for the chainplate.  Did you
do anything like that?

Thanks,


Mike McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)
Allatoona Lake
Acworth, GA



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
PIHLAJA
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy,
it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine screws
+ fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson
inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But, you
will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you
want.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

Roger Pihlaja

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open up
the cabin liner?

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
PIHLAJA
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi All,

One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham
Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
large hole.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi Rhodies,

I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.

It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.

Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?

Thank you!

Mike McKay
S/V Liber 2006/2108
Allatoona Lake, GA




Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone
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From brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 23 17:57:45 2024
From: brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com (Brian Ferguson)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2024 17:57:45 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Edenton Corral
Message-ID: <CAPD+wLHpwtN8TvyprYgatWAzKCEYHxf9xJJD6WR38P-_51qxHw@mail.gmail.com>

Back on June 20th Cindy Spitzer wrote that there were used Rhodes 22s at
the plant. Does anyone have a list of what is there? The March 2023 Google
street view has R22s and some other odds and ends. I think the C25
conversion was in the picture too. Aerial imagery shows more. Sometimes I
feel like I am putting lipstick on a pig with my 1976 instead of actually
sailing. I might be interested in a newer used model.

I remember when "Corral" was on the UsedRhodes22.com website.

Thanks,

Brian
NewIn76
South Carolina

From brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 23 17:57:53 2024
From: brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com (Brian Ferguson)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2024 17:57:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Backstay Attachment
Message-ID: <CAPD+wLHZi9C3+mt7WGTU2hA_YOiGipv+AQqYV_PrHzwOaQpkqA@mail.gmail.com>

This is another Traditional Mast question so the IMF crew can skip it. Can
someone send me a picture of how their backstay attaches to the masthead?
In a previous post, I explained that my backstays are actually not double,
but essentially a single wire with a thimble that creates a bight and is
attached to an adjuster. Not sure if this is how it originally came from
the factory or a previous owner's mod.

That leads to my next question. I've tried to contact Charles Gabriel via
the website and direct through gmail, but with no success. I want to order
a backstay assembly and the traveler, but my emails have gone unanswered.
My certificate of support doesn't seem to be paying off for me. I would
like to support GB if I can.

Thanks for any assistance on both matters.

Brian
NewIn76
South Carolina

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 23 20:09:44 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2024 20:09:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Backstay Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAPD+wLHZi9C3+mt7WGTU2hA_YOiGipv+AQqYV_PrHzwOaQpkqA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPD+wLHZi9C3+mt7WGTU2hA_YOiGipv+AQqYV_PrHzwOaQpkqA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNXedXpiRCyEQemJna_f4DH+Hz6Df7m1jZNhoqm=4n+-w@mail.gmail.com>

Brian,

The split backstay is actually a single piece of cable which loops through
a toggle, and  around the pin. That toggle goes over a cross pin in the
mast head fitting.
Attached are a few pics of an old mast I have out back.
I hope this helps.

On Fri, Aug 23, 2024, 5:56 PM Brian Ferguson <brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> This is another Traditional Mast question so the IMF crew can skip it. Can
> someone send me a picture of how their backstay attaches to the masthead?
> In a previous post, I explained that my backstays are actually not double,
> but essentially a single wire with a thimble that creates a bight and is
> attached to an adjuster. Not sure if this is how it originally came from
> the factory or a previous owner's mod.
>
> That leads to my next question. I've tried to contact Charles Gabriel via
> the website and direct through gmail, but with no success. I want to order
> a backstay assembly and the traveler, but my emails have gone unanswered.
> My certificate of support doesn't seem to be paying off for me. I would
> like to support GB if I can.
>
> Thanks for any assistance on both matters.
>
> Brian
> NewIn76
> South Carolina
>
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From jayf401 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 24 09:01:17 2024
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 09:01:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inboard Jib Sheeting
Message-ID: <5CC86F27-6696-4FF3-BAF4-2BC2BA5CE480@gmail.com>

This year especially we on the Jersey shore are blessed with higher than normal winds, often 15-18 kts. I am looking for a way to quickly go from an outward position to inboard as the wind kicks up. Pointing ability would greatly improve.
My ?97 has the traditional cam cleats on the cabin sides for 1st position inboard sheeting, but for me they are tough to release. I would rather go back to the cars in the forward position and drum/ clam cleat. At the dock, it?s a quick but underway, it?s a bit hairy, especially solo w/ tiller locked. 
I was thinking of large sister clips (https://www.ronstan.com/us/sister-clip-cast-stainless-steel.html) as the quickest way to go forward. What ideas can the group offer on this?

Jay Friedland
?97 S/V Wanderlust
Long Beach Island, NJ


Sent from my iPhone

From jayf401 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 24 09:08:02 2024
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 09:08:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inboard Jib Sheeting
Message-ID: <D7206C3C-66C9-41D7-A76C-68801F507656@gmail.com>

I should add that underway, I thread the loose jibsheet inboard, then tack and thread the other.

Jay Friedland
?97 S/V Wanderlust
Long Beach Island, NJ
Sent from my iPhone

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Sat Aug 24 09:16:08 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 09:16:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Backstay Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNXedXpiRCyEQemJna_f4DH+Hz6Df7m1jZNhoqm=4n+-w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB-twMNXedXpiRCyEQemJna_f4DH+Hz6Df7m1jZNhoqm=4n+-w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EED8B3EA-3A80-44BD-BB74-C1CA5D259EA2@stottarchitecture.com>

Here is a pic of the top of a spare mast I have (available for free) It?s a continental mast not IMF. 

Ric
Dadventure 
Hampton Bays NY. 

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Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 23, 2024, at 8:10?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Brian,
> 
> The split backstay is actually a single piece of cable which loops through
> a toggle, and  around the pin. That toggle goes over a cross pin in the
> mast head fitting.
> Attached are a few pics of an old mast I have out back.
> I hope this helps.
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 23, 2024, 5:56 PM Brian Ferguson <brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> This is another Traditional Mast question so the IMF crew can skip it. Can
>> someone send me a picture of how their backstay attaches to the masthead?
>> In a previous post, I explained that my backstays are actually not double,
>> but essentially a single wire with a thimble that creates a bight and is
>> attached to an adjuster. Not sure if this is how it originally came from
>> the factory or a previous owner's mod.
>> 
>> That leads to my next question. I've tried to contact Charles Gabriel via
>> the website and direct through gmail, but with no success. I want to order
>> a backstay assembly and the traveler, but my emails have gone unanswered.
>> My certificate of support doesn't seem to be paying off for me. I would
>> like to support GB if I can.
>> 
>> Thanks for any assistance on both matters.
>> 
>> Brian
>> NewIn76
>> South Carolina
>> 
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From markwynn at verizon.net  Sat Aug 24 14:10:15 2024
From: markwynn at verizon.net (Mark Wynn)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 18:10:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Broken Spacer for Rudder Downhaul Lines
References: <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674@mail.yahoo.com>

The small spacer block for the rudder downhaul lines broke, so my the lines have now jammed the rudder halfway down. I contacted Charles Gabriel, who told me that General Boats does not have any replacement parts. Does anyone know of someone who could make a replacement part, or some other solution? Thanks
Mark Wynns/v WindchimesMagothy River, Maryland
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From bgarrant at gmail.com  Sat Aug 24 20:02:30 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 20:02:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Broken Spacer for Rudder Downhaul Lines
In-Reply-To: <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBDiu8CSYEhONYa6iVWe7Trz21v0m9WbXdcC8rF-Ni3wmw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Mark
I live on Kent Island and sail in the Chester River.
The same thing happened to my rudder and the lines kept jamming.
I?m hoping to come up with a permanent solution after the Sailing season
ends and the boat is out of the water.
I came up with a short term solution that will enable me to sell for the
rest of the season.

Bob


On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 2:17?PM Mark Wynn via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> The small spacer block for the rudder downhaul lines broke, so my the
> lines have now jammed the rudder halfway down. I contacted Charles Gabriel,
> who told me that General Boats does not have any replacement parts. Does
> anyone know of someone who could make a replacement part, or some other
> solution? Thanks
> Mark Wynns/v WindchimesMagothy River, Maryland
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>

From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Sat Aug 24 21:05:31 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 18:05:31 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Broken Spacer for Rudder Downhaul Lines
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBDiu8CSYEhONYa6iVWe7Trz21v0m9WbXdcC8rF-Ni3wmw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPi3tBDiu8CSYEhONYa6iVWe7Trz21v0m9WbXdcC8rF-Ni3wmw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuNdpdWT0gOdbhh8FJH3EsJPo_OauXMO_5iZbBNe_y5ajA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Mark:

You should be able to have this replicated at any shop capable of machining
heavy duty plastic. I had a similar experience with a broken outhaul, and I
got 2 from a local fabricator for ~$150, including measurement/setup. They
thought it was a 'cute' project ?.

Good luck!

Shawn
S/V Sweet Baboo (86/10)



On Sat, Aug 24, 2024, 5:12?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Mark
> I live on Kent Island and sail in the Chester River.
> The same thing happened to my rudder and the lines kept jamming.
> I?m hoping to come up with a permanent solution after the Sailing season
> ends and the boat is out of the water.
> I came up with a short term solution that will enable me to sell for the
> rest of the season.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 2:17?PM Mark Wynn via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > The small spacer block for the rudder downhaul lines broke, so my the
> > lines have now jammed the rudder halfway down. I contacted Charles
> Gabriel,
> > who told me that General Boats does not have any replacement parts. Does
> > anyone know of someone who could make a replacement part, or some other
> > solution? Thanks
> > Mark Wynns/v WindchimesMagothy River, Maryland
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240824/cef9875d/attachment.jpeg
> > >
> >
>

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Sat Aug 24 21:14:50 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2024 21:14:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Broken Spacer for Rudder Downhaul Lines
In-Reply-To: <CAMzGxuNdpdWT0gOdbhh8FJH3EsJPo_OauXMO_5iZbBNe_y5ajA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1620242275.6253396.1724523015674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPi3tBDiu8CSYEhONYa6iVWe7Trz21v0m9WbXdcC8rF-Ni3wmw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuNdpdWT0gOdbhh8FJH3EsJPo_OauXMO_5iZbBNe_y5ajA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBBheSJA4xdZjQKPOXZHHT7aHAqfhrbqgt9ohq_Z8GF-1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Shawn,
Mine broke off completely so I didn?t have any remnants that I could use a
a model for someone to remake it. Do you have pictures of it?

Bob Garrant
Sail la Vie 2000/2017
Kent Island, MD


On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 9:12?PM Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Mark:
>
> You should be able to have this replicated at any shop capable of machining
> heavy duty plastic. I had a similar experience with a broken outhaul, and I
> got 2 from a local fabricator for ~$150, including measurement/setup. They
> thought it was a 'cute' project ?.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Shawn
> S/V Sweet Baboo (86/10)
>
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 24, 2024, 5:12?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Mark
> > I live on Kent Island and sail in the Chester River.
> > The same thing happened to my rudder and the lines kept jamming.
> > I?m hoping to come up with a permanent solution after the Sailing season
> > ends and the boat is out of the water.
> > I came up with a short term solution that will enable me to sell for the
> > rest of the season.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 2:17?PM Mark Wynn via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > > The small spacer block for the rudder downhaul lines broke, so my the
> > > lines have now jammed the rudder halfway down. I contacted Charles
> > Gabriel,
> > > who told me that General Boats does not have any replacement parts.
> Does
> > > anyone know of someone who could make a replacement part, or some other
> > > solution? Thanks
> > > Mark Wynns/v WindchimesMagothy River, Maryland
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 1987255 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240824/cef9875d/attachment.jpeg
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From mark at whipplefamily.com  Sun Aug 25 05:21:42 2024
From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple)
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2024 12:21:42 +0300
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Edenton Corral
In-Reply-To: <CAPD+wLHpwtN8TvyprYgatWAzKCEYHxf9xJJD6WR38P-_51qxHw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPD+wLHpwtN8TvyprYgatWAzKCEYHxf9xJJD6WR38P-_51qxHw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+WP5ASh23-C=M2_W_s87ZbLc5jtA=CqE94UBYRUEuKAum8qdQ@mail.gmail.com>

Brian,

I was at the plant several years ago. There were a number of used R22s
outside as well as a few (in better shape) inside. My recollection is that
all will need work, some more than others. I don't have a list. You might
reach out to Charles Gabriel on this list and see if he is able to help you
out. There's also been a number of folks selling newer R22s lately, both on
this list and on the R22 Facebook page. Hope that helps.

Mark

Boston,MA
2000 R22 *When and If*

On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 12:57?AM Brian Ferguson <
brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Back on June 20th Cindy Spitzer wrote that there were used Rhodes 22s at
> the plant. Does anyone have a list of what is there? The March 2023 Google
> street view has R22s and some other odds and ends. I think the C25
> conversion was in the picture too. Aerial imagery shows more. Sometimes I
> feel like I am putting lipstick on a pig with my 1976 instead of actually
> sailing. I might be interested in a newer used model.
>
> I remember when "Corral" was on the UsedRhodes22.com website.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
> NewIn76
> South Carolina
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Sun Aug 25 08:12:50 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2024 08:12:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Broken Spacer for Rudder Downhaul Lines
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBBheSJA4xdZjQKPOXZHHT7aHAqfhrbqgt9ohq_Z8GF-1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPi3tBBheSJA4xdZjQKPOXZHHT7aHAqfhrbqgt9ohq_Z8GF-1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F9639E5E-2689-466B-88C4-4393CE542604@stottarchitecture.com>

Actually, I never knew such a gizmo existed.  I run the up and down haul lines through the pintle receiver   It works fairly well and never gets stuck. 
I?ll take a phot later. 
If parts become available though, count me in. 
Ric
Dadventure. 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 24, 2024, at 9:15?PM, Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Shawn,
> Mine broke off completely so I didn?t have any remnants that I could use a
> a model for someone to remake it. Do you have pictures of it?
> 
> Bob Garrant
> Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> Kent Island, MD
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 9:12?PM Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Mark:
>> 
>> You should be able to have this replicated at any shop capable of machining
>> heavy duty plastic. I had a similar experience with a broken outhaul, and I
>> got 2 from a local fabricator for ~$150, including measurement/setup. They
>> thought it was a 'cute' project ?.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>> Shawn
>> S/V Sweet Baboo (86/10)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Aug 24, 2024, 5:12?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Mark
>>> I live on Kent Island and sail in the Chester River.
>>> The same thing happened to my rudder and the lines kept jamming.
>>> I?m hoping to come up with a permanent solution after the Sailing season
>>> ends and the boat is out of the water.
>>> I came up with a short term solution that will enable me to sell for the
>>> rest of the season.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sat, Aug 24, 2024 at 2:17?PM Mark Wynn via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> The small spacer block for the rudder downhaul lines broke, so my the
>>>> lines have now jammed the rudder halfway down. I contacted Charles
>>> Gabriel,
>>>> who told me that General Boats does not have any replacement parts.
>> Does
>>>> anyone know of someone who could make a replacement part, or some other
>>>> solution? Thanks
>>>> Mark Wynns/v WindchimesMagothy River, Maryland
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: IMG_5206.jpeg
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 1987255 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>>> 
>>> 
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240824/cef9875d/attachment.jpeg
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 

From liznray15 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 25 10:43:48 2024
From: liznray15 at gmail.com (Liz and Ray)
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2024 10:43:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Edenton Corral
In-Reply-To: <CAPD+wLHpwtN8TvyprYgatWAzKCEYHxf9xJJD6WR38P-_51qxHw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPD+wLHpwtN8TvyprYgatWAzKCEYHxf9xJJD6WR38P-_51qxHw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOQT4E_YHbfALqwjEse5FjpkPmmD=UNRtSb8qb8wVzH2LPi-cg@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 1995 Rhodes 22 that I will never sail again due health issues.

This boat is equipped for day sail and cruising. Send email for inventory
list and
cell phone for pictures.

She is on a trailer in my backyard.

Willing to sell below similar boat stated prices, she should be used by
someone who can appreciate and
enjoy her design.





On Fri, Aug 23, 2024 at 6:12?PM Brian Ferguson <brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Back on June 20th Cindy Spitzer wrote that there were used Rhodes 22s at
> the plant. Does anyone have a list of what is there? The March 2023 Google
> street view has R22s and some other odds and ends. I think the C25
> conversion was in the picture too. Aerial imagery shows more. Sometimes I
> feel like I am putting lipstick on a pig with my 1976 instead of actually
> sailing. I might be interested in a newer used model.
>
> I remember when "Corral" was on the UsedRhodes22.com website.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
> NewIn76
> South Carolina
>

From boon_doggy at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 25 19:54:52 2024
From: boon_doggy at yahoo.com (Mike)
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2024 23:54:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gauging interest in a sale
References: <1803565381.795486.1724630092349.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1803565381.795486.1724630092349@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello all!

I thought I'd start here before listing my Rhodes with a broker over the Winter. It's a 1989 (refurbished in 2014) and Stan's old rental boat from the factory. I've sailed it exactly three times in those ten years, which my wife has gotten pretty sick of. The boat's in great shape with a brand-new Genoa and Main; and a brand-new CDI FF4 furler up front. The trailer is a 2019 Triad dual-axle with under 1000 miles on it and zero dips into the water. I've got a 5HP Lehr outboard that has less than 10 hours with it. I just fired it up and ran it through it's paces for about an hour on a stand & can set-up just a few weeks ago and it was smooth. The motor's been kept in my garages and might as well be brand new. Zero rot on the hoses and seals (that I can visually check, externally).
The interior upholstery might as well be brand-new and I've got the cushions and supports to convert the cockpit, as well. Comes with the mast wench and mast cradle, as well.

There's some relatively minor (as I've been reading on here, they seem minor) problems; which is why I am selling it. I got it out of storage at the beginning of Summer when I finally got the new sails and furler after three years of waiting (long story). Since then, I've been working on various little things, which has been great. I'm a retired Coast Guard sailor and helicopter mechanic, so I've had a lot of fun. Too much fun. I realized that I like working on it a little bit each day more than the thought of taking it out and sailing it.

Boating season is ending here in October and I would really rather sell it to someone who will use it than do a DIY shrink-wrap and keep it in my drive-way or drop a grand to have it stored over the Central New York Winter. 

Happy to send pictures/videos, take measurements, do inspections if you've got questions. I recommend a proper marine-survey with any boat purchase (I had a 43' Wellcraft Portofino once-upon-a-time) and those surveys always go better when the surveyor has some honest information to start with. Just like a home-inspection.

I'm very pragmatic about the price. No broker; no markup. I'm not going to ask for what I paid for stuff I've already, bought even when it is practically like-new.
The idealist in me wants us both to walk away saying, "that was a good deal."

Mike Blagg
209-872-2321
mikeblagg at gmail.com -or- boon_doggy at yahoo.com