[Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (reply to Chris G)
peter klappert
koatimundi100 at gmail.com
Mon Aug 5 19:56:17 EDT 2024
Stan’s team did a good job installing the Air Head, but I should br honest
and say it’s never actually been used. I’ve only been a day sailer and
everyone has been comfortable waiting til we get back to the dock. The Air
Head is taller than a marine toilet, but you just open the hatch above it
and enjoy the view. Or that’s the theory.
*>>>>>>>>> *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*
*Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*
On Mon, Aug 5, 2024 at 7:20 PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org> wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Todd Tavares)
> 2. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> 3. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Todd Tavares)
> 4. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
> 5. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Scott Andrews)
> 6. Re: head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4576), Issue
> 1 (Chris Geankoplis)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 19:21:55 -0400
> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID:
> <
> CAB-twMPpC4-xdU3yf5OKRusieTxhdR_7e8BbALctARw-kEoXhw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Mike,
>
> Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the lower
> shroud chainplates.
> He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting the
> chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out without
> cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
>
> You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Roger and Todd,
> >
> > Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
> > the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> > anything.
> >
> > The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> > the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws. To remove the old
> > chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner. In Todd's
> case,
> > he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate. Roger, did you need
> to
> > do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >
> > In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> > there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >
> > A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening. A
> > backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
> > cabin sidewall. The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> > Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> > inspection port.
> >
> > Is the above description correct?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > ROGER
> > PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> > liner. This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate. Remove
> > the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> > goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof) and thru bolt it thru the
> > outer cabin wall. Then, install the Beckson inspection plate. Easy
> peasy,
> > it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate. You can easily do all 4
> > inner chainplates in an afternoon. Other than two round head machine
> > screws
> > + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> > inspection plates in the cabin, the installation will look stock. But,
> > you
> > will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> > want.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978 Sanford, MI
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates? Did you have to open
> > up
> > the cabin liner?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > ROGER
> > PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> > the four lower chainplates. There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> > lower chainplates. Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> > plywood core, causing it to rot. This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> > Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner. With these
> > inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> > the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish. I do not
> > trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> > especially not when the fix is so easy. Just bite the bullet and do this
> > upgrade. You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978 Sanford, MI
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Graham
> > Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> > a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> > picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section
> of
> > the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create
> a
> > large hole.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Rhodes 22
> > Agile, 1976
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Hi Rhodies,
> >
> > I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >
> > It is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > inside.
> >
> > Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >
> > Thank you!
> >
> > Mike McKay
> > S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > Allatoona Lake, GA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael McKay
> > (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 89771 bytes
> > Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > URL:
> > <
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or
> >
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> > <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.or%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >
> >
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> > http://r
> >
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > .jpe>>
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 01:40:28 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID:
> <
> MN2PR10MB428849A47AE19B9611EA4C7380BD2 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Todd,
>
> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment. Doesn?t that work anymore? If
> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Mike,
> >
> > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> lower
> > shroud chainplates.
> > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> the
> > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> without
> > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> >
> > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Roger and Todd,
> >>
> >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>
> >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> inside
> >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws. To remove the old
> >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner. In Todd's
> case,
> >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate. Roger, did you
> need to
> >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>
> >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> Was
> >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>
> >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening. A
> >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >> cabin sidewall. The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> plate.
> >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> an
> >> inspection port.
> >>
> >> Is the above description correct?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >> liner. This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof) and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >> outer cabin wall. Then, install the Beckson inspection plate. Easy
> peasy,
> >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate. You can easily do all
> 4
> >> inner chainplates in an afternoon. Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> Beckson
> >> inspection plates in the cabin, the installation will look stock. But,
> >> you
> >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> you
> >> want.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978 Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates? Did you have to
> open
> >> up
> >> the cabin liner?
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >> PIHLAJA
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> were
> >> the four lower chainplates. There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >> lower chainplates. Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> the
> >> plywood core, causing it to rot. This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner. With these
> >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish. I do
> not
> >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> component,
> >> especially not when the fix is so easy. Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >> upgrade. You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978 Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> with
> >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section of
> >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create a
> >> large hole.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Rhodes 22
> >> Agile, 1976
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>
> >> Hi Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>
> >> It is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>
> >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Mike McKay
> >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Michael McKay
> >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 89771 bytes
> >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >> URL:
> >> <
> >> http://rhodes22.or/
> >>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> >>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >> http://r
> >>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >> .jpe>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2024 23:15:59 -0400
> From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID:
> <CAB-twMO5ugs4A=
> 0yap0yvZWFBgPAy9O_2WqS00uZRg48ocy5_Q at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Roger,
>
> Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> tried to download but stalled.
>
> I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> other...especially better than my way.
>
> When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment. Doesn?t that work anymore? If
> > you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Mike,
> > >
> > > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> > lower
> > > shroud chainplates.
> > > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> > the
> > > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> > without
> > > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> > >
> > > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Roger and Todd,
> > >>
> > >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> > understand
> > >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> > >> anything.
> > >>
> > >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> > inside
> > >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws. To remove the
> old
> > >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner. In Todd's
> > case,
> > >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate. Roger, did you
> > need to
> > >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> > >>
> > >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> > Was
> > >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling
> liner?
> > >>
> > >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening. A
> > >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> > the
> > >> cabin sidewall. The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> > plate.
> > >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin
> as
> > an
> > >> inspection port.
> > >>
> > >> Is the above description correct?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Mike
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the
> cabin
> > >> liner. This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> > Remove
> > >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> > >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof) and thru bolt it thru
> > the
> > >> outer cabin wall. Then, install the Beckson inspection plate. Easy
> > peasy,
> > >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate. You can easily do
> all
> > 4
> > >> inner chainplates in an afternoon. Other than two round head machine
> > >> screws
> > >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> > Beckson
> > >> inspection plates in the cabin, the installation will look stock.
> But,
> > >> you
> > >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates
> whenever
> > you
> > >> want.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978 Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates? Did you have to
> > open
> > >> up
> > >> the cabin liner?
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> > were
> > >> the four lower chainplates. There is no way to inspect the factory
> OEM
> > >> lower chainplates. Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> > the
> > >> plywood core, causing it to rot. This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> > Defender
> > >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner. With
> these
> > >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> > thru
> > >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish. I do
> > not
> > >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> > component,
> > >> especially not when the fix is so easy. Just bite the bullet and do
> > this
> > >> upgrade. You'll never have to worry about it again.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978 Sanford, MI
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Graham
> > >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> > with
> > >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached a
> > >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> > section of
> > >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> > create a
> > >> large hole.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Graham Stewart
> > >> Rhodes 22
> > >> Agile, 1976
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi Rhodies,
> > >>
> > >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> > >>
> > >> It is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > >> inside.
> > >>
> > >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> > >>
> > >> Thank you!
> > >>
> > >> Mike McKay
> > >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Michael McKay
> > >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 89771 bytes
> > >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> URL:
> > >> <
> > >> http://rhodes22.or/
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> > >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> > >> http://r
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > >> .jpe>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 12:27:53 -0400
> From: <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID: <005601dae68b$41aab4c0$c5001e40$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thank you again Todd and Roger for helping me plan this project. I will
> take pictures and do a write up to consolidate all this advice into a
> single document.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Todd Tavares
> Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 11:16 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Roger,
>
> Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> tried to download but stalled.
>
> I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> other...especially better than my way.
>
> When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment. Doesn?t that work anymore? If
> > you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Mike,
> > >
> > > Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> > lower
> > > shroud chainplates.
> > > He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> > the
> > > chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> > > removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> > without
> > > cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> > >
> > > You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> > > reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Roger and Todd,
> > >>
> > >> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> > understand
> > >> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> > >> anything.
> > >>
> > >> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> > inside
> > >> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws. To remove the
> old
> > >> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner. In Todd's
> > case,
> > >> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> > >> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate. Roger, did you
> > need to
> > >> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> > >>
> > >> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> > Was
> > >> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling
> liner?
> > >>
> > >> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> > >> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening. A
> > >> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> > the
> > >> cabin sidewall. The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> > plate.
> > >> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin
> as
> > an
> > >> inspection port.
> > >>
> > >> Is the above description correct?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Mike
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the
> cabin
> > >> liner. This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> > Remove
> > >> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> > >> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> > >> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof) and thru bolt it thru
> > the
> > >> outer cabin wall. Then, install the Beckson inspection plate. Easy
> > peasy,
> > >> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate. You can easily do
> all
> > 4
> > >> inner chainplates in an afternoon. Other than two round head machine
> > >> screws
> > >> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> > Beckson
> > >> inspection plates in the cabin, the installation will look stock.
> But,
> > >> you
> > >> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates
> whenever
> > you
> > >> want.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978 Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> > >> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates? Did you have to
> > open
> > >> up
> > >> the cabin liner?
> > >>
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > >> ROGER
> > >> PIHLAJA
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> > were
> > >> the four lower chainplates. There is no way to inspect the factory
> OEM
> > >> lower chainplates. Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> > the
> > >> plywood core, causing it to rot. This is easily fixed by installing 4
> > >> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> > Defender
> > >> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner. With
> these
> > >> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> > thru
> > >> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish. I do
> > not
> > >> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> > component,
> > >> especially not when the fix is so easy. Just bite the bullet and do
> > this
> > >> upgrade. You'll never have to worry about it again.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978 Sanford, MI
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Graham
> > >> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> > with
> > >> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached a
> > >> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> > >> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> > section of
> > >> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> > create a
> > >> large hole.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Graham Stewart
> > >> Rhodes 22
> > >> Agile, 1976
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > >> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> > >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> > >>
> > >> Hi Rhodies,
> > >>
> > >> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> > >>
> > >> It is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> > >> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> > >> inside.
> > >>
> > >> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> > >>
> > >> Thank you!
> > >>
> > >> Mike McKay
> > >> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> > >> Allatoona Lake, GA
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Michael McKay
> > >> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 89771 bytes
> > >> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> > >> URL:
> > >> <
> > >> http://rhodes22.or/
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> > >> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> > >> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> > >> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> > >> http://r
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> > >> .jpe>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2024 15:31:33 -0400
> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> Message-ID: <2A3BAC3F-7EE8-434E-BA53-DC74CB663407 at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Great information! I continue to be amazed by the wonderful sharing among
> owners. Thanks to all.
> Scott & Rebecca
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 4, 2024, at 12:27?PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > ?Thank you again Todd and Roger for helping me plan this project. I
> will take pictures and do a write up to consolidate all this advice into a
> single document.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Todd Tavares
> > Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2024 11:16 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >
> > Roger,
> >
> > Eventually two pictures came through. There was also another link that
> > tried to download but stalled.
> >
> > I just wanted to stress to Michael that your way was far better than any
> > other...especially better than my way.
> >
> > When you wrote about cutting the chainplate off that protrudes above the
> > cabin roof, it was face palm moment. Why didn't I think of that.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> >> On Sat, Aug 3, 2024, 10:05 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Todd,
> >>
> >> I sent the photos as a .pdf attachment. Doesn?t that work anymore? If
> >> you give me your email address, I?ll resend the photos to you.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 3, 2024, at 7:22?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Mike,
> >>>
> >>> Roger has come up with the best way of repairing and or replacing the
> >> lower
> >>> shroud chainplates.
> >>> He posted pictures, but they did not come through on my end. By cutting
> >> the
> >>> chainplate off flush where it comes out through the cabin top, thus
> >>> removing most of the bend, you should be able to fish the piece out
> >> without
> >>> cutting down the side, or using the die grinder.
> >>>
> >>> You will however have to cut rectangular hole lower in the side to
> >>> reinforce the side outer cabin wall and mount the new chainplates.
> >>>
> >>> Todd T.
> >>>
> >>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024, 4:45 PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger and Todd,
> >>>>
> >>>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> >> understand
> >>>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >>>> anything.
> >>>>
> >>>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> >> inside
> >>>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws. To remove the
> old
> >>>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner. In Todd's
> >> case,
> >>>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >>>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate. Roger, did you
> >> need to
> >>>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>>>
> >>>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> >> Was
> >>>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling
> liner?
> >>>>
> >>>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >>>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening. A
> >>>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> >> the
> >>>> cabin sidewall. The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> >> plate.
> >>>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin
> as
> >> an
> >>>> inspection port.
> >>>>
> >>>> Is the above description correct?
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >>>> ROGER
> >>>> PIHLAJA
> >>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the
> cabin
> >>>> liner. This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> >> Remove
> >>>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >>>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> >>>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof) and thru bolt it thru
> >> the
> >>>> outer cabin wall. Then, install the Beckson inspection plate. Easy
> >> peasy,
> >>>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate. You can easily do
> all
> >> 4
> >>>> inner chainplates in an afternoon. Other than two round head machine
> >>>> screws
> >>>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> >> Beckson
> >>>> inspection plates in the cabin, the installation will look stock.
> But,
> >>>> you
> >>>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates
> whenever
> >> you
> >>>> want.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978 Sanford, MI
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates? Did you have to
> >> open
> >>>> up
> >>>> the cabin liner?
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >>>> ROGER
> >>>> PIHLAJA
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi All,
> >>>>
> >>>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were
> >>>> the four lower chainplates. There is no way to inspect the factory
> OEM
> >>>> lower chainplates. Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> >> the
> >>>> plywood core, causing it to rot. This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >>>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> >> Defender
> >>>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner. With
> these
> >>>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> >> thru
> >>>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish. I do
> >> not
> >>>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> >> component,
> >>>> especially not when the fix is so easy. Just bite the bullet and do
> >> this
> >>>> upgrade. You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978 Sanford, MI
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> Graham
> >>>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with
> >>>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have
> attached a
> >>>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >>>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> >> section of
> >>>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> >> create a
> >>>> large hole.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Graham Stewart
> >>>> Rhodes 22
> >>>> Agile, 1976
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi Rhodies,
> >>>>
> >>>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>>>
> >>>> It is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >>>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >>>> inside.
> >>>>
> >>>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>>>
> >>>> Thank you!
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike McKay
> >>>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >>>> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Michael McKay
> >>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>>> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> >>>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>>> Size: 89771 bytes
> >>>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >>>> URL:
> >>>> <
> >>>> http://rhodes22.or/
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> %2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ca7967458efd14c4dfe5208dcb311e4b4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb43
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> 5aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638582136698053942%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiM
> >>>> <http://rhodes22.or/>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> C4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata
> >>>> =HFyik%2FmRwx69hWRMx5DoANJs6BFU28nstLPKXS2SNCc%3D&reserved=0
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> g%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240730%2F05e2d6ca%2Fattachme
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> nt.jpe&data=05%7C02%7C%7C00aa48bcb418480360ad08dcb0a2310f%7C84df9e7fe9f640af
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> b435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638579458073076816%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIj
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> oiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sd
> >>>> ata=%2FLnNro58IDe1WwpfkGbccN3v%2BccS0DNfMm%2BIOWMHbeg%3D&reserved=0<
> >>>> http://r
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >>>> .jpe>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2024 19:12:00 -0400
> From: Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] head ventilation (Rhodes22-list Digest,
> Vol 4576), Issue 1
> Message-ID:
> <
> CADNTwiWDCm44Kd8LgKCe+kFvKAzzRuiqMhGj15_xSE4jPTL12A at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Got it Peter! I saw the installation, very neat.
>
> On Sun, Aug 4, 2024 at 1:40?AM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I sent this at the end of July but haven?t seen it. In case I screwed up
> > when sending (I frequently screw up things digital), here it is again .
> >
> > On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 4:25?PM peter klappert <koatimundi100 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I was the first?possibly the only?Rhodie who substituted an Airhead
> > > composting head for the marine toilet and holding tank. (My R22 is kept
> > on
> > > a lift at my dock: I didn?t want to have to find a pump out station.)
> It
> > > has a vent tube with a small computer fan, tho I doubt that affords
> much
> > > head ventilation.
> > > But I also had Stan install a solar fan (rechargeable batteries)
> in
> > > the deck over the v-berth, way up in the bow. It pushes a great deal of
> > air
> > > through the whole cabin. With the sliding panel between the v-berth and
> > > head pushed open (ie to port) it keeps the head well-ventilated and
> > >
> > indeed, it ventilates the whole cabin).
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > *>>>>>>>>> *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*
> > >
> > > *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:58?PM <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > >>
> > >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > >> http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> > >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > >> rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
> > >>
> > >> You can reach the person managing the list at
> > >> rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
> > >>
> > >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > >> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Today's Topics:
> > >>
> > >> 1. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
> > >> 2. Re: Head ventilation (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> > >> 3. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Michael McKay)
> > >> 4. Re: Head ventilation (Scott Andrews)
> > >> 5. Re: Boom Rigging Question (PBR)
> > >> 6. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Mike)
> > >> 7. Re: Head ventilation (Mary Lou Troy)
> > >> 8. Fwd: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Michael McKay)
> > >> 9. Re: Boom Rigging Question (Todd Tavares)
> > >> 10. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (Graham Stewart)
> > >> 11. Re: How to replace forward lower chainplates? (ROGER PIHLAJA)
> > >> 12. Re: A Conversation with Stan Spitzer (Frank Goldsmith)
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 1
> > >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 18:05:22 -0400
> > >> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> > >> Message-ID: <216AD1F0-4896-4812-9618-48135BA84B45 at verizon.net>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >>
> > >> Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 110591 bytes
> > >> Desc: not available
> > >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> > >> >
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> > >> rebuilt the
> > >> > interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> > >> bilge
> > >> > pumps. More headroom would be nice
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> > Mweisner at ebsmed.com
> > >> >
> > >> >> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Mike
> > >> >> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >> >> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> > >> >>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods that I
> > >> want
> > >> >> to
> > >> >>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> > stuff
> > >> >> I'm
> > >> >>> really jealous of!
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> they're
> > >> all
> > >> >>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> > hatch
> > >> >>> over
> > >> >>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> > that
> > >> >> are
> > >> >>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> > >> worried
> > >> >>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> be
> > >> >>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> be
> > >> >> better
> > >> >>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> you
> > >> some
> > >> >>> headroom! Thanks!
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 2
> > >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 22:23:10 +0000
> > >> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > >> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> > >> Message-ID:
> > >> <
> > >>
> >
> MN2PR10MB42886A2EAACCF5F9D2A2AC1C80B62 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask. I would
> > like
> > >> to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when GBI
> > >> implemented those 2 opening hatches. Those 2 hatches together
> > represent a
> > >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the
> mast.
> > >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can
> be
> > cut
> > >> into it without compromising the structure? If Stan had to reinforce
> > the
> > >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> > any
> > >> advertisement that I saw. I wish there was someone to ask re this
> issue
> > >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?. Scott, I
> advise
> > >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> > if
> > >> you weaken it too much.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> > >> > -------------- next part --------------
> > >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> > Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> > Type: image/jpeg
> > >> > Size: 110591 bytes
> > >> > Desc: not available
> > >> > URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> > >> >
> > >> > -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> > >> rebuilt the
> > >> >> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have multiple
> > >> bilge
> > >> >> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> > >> >>
> > >> >>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> > >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > >> >>> wrote:
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> Mike
> > >> >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >> >>> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> > >> >>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods
> that I
> > >> want
> > >> >>> to
> > >> >>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> > >> stuff
> > >> >>> I'm
> > >> >>>> really jealous of!
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> > they're
> > >> all
> > >> >>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> > >> hatch
> > >> >>>> over
> > >> >>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find hatches
> > >> that
> > >> >>> are
> > >> >>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> > >> worried
> > >> >>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they can
> > be
> > >> >>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> be
> > >> >>> better
> > >> >>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> > you
> > >> some
> > >> >>>> headroom! Thanks!
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 3
> > >> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2024 23:11:15 -0400
> > >> From: Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Rigging Question
> > >> Message-ID: <3E65320C-991D-4057-B001-D79B5C544C06 at gmail.com>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > >>
> > >> Mike, on my boat the topping lift runs down outside the mast to a
> block
> > >> on the port cabin top near the hand rail and then back through a cam
> > cleat
> > >> at the cockpit, similar to the jib furling line.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Michael McKay
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 7:35?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Mike,
> > >> >
> > >> > I?ve never understood why Stan made the boom topping lift so
> complex.
> > >> On my Rhodes 22, I just attached a 1/4? piece of double braid to the
> > >> masthead. I ran this line directly to the end of the boom and
> attached
> > it
> > >> to a cam cleat mounted on the end of the boom. Now, if you want to
> > adjust
> > >> the topping lift, it?s located right above the helmsman?s head. This
> > is at
> > >> least as convenient and ergonomic as the GBI setup and it?s lighter
> with
> > >> less windage too. Think about it before you go to a lot of trouble
> and
> > >> effort to rebuild the factory setup.
> > >> >
> > >> > Roger Pihlaja
> > >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 4:30?PM, Mike via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> ?Hello everyone!
> > >> >>
> > >> >> My name is Mike and I've had my Rhodes 22 for almost 9 years now.
> > >> Unfortunately, circumstances kept it in storage for almost of all of
> > that
> > >> time.
> > >> >> I was finally able to get it out this Summer after the last,
> two-year
> > >> delay waiting for sails, then having to replace the headsail furler,
> and
> > >> then having to have the sails redone (long story, not the point).
> > >> >> I've figured most of the rigging out, with the exception of the
> boom
> > >> lift. I read the previous comments, but the way mine is done doesn't
> > make
> > >> any sense.
> > >> >> I don't know if the shop messed something up (probably) or if it's
> > >> just rigged weird. There's a lot of peculiarities with this boat
> > because it
> > >> was Stan's rental until I bought it in 2015.
> > >> >> Many of you have probably sailed on it before buying your Rhodes.
> > It's
> > >> an older Rhodes with some modern additions and kind of a one-off.
> > >> >> The line from the end of the boom runs up through the sheaves at
> the
> > >> top of the mast and back down the outside of it, as described in the
> > >> manual. However, the line then goes through the boom-carriage into the
> > IMF
> > >> rotating shaft.
> > >> >> I am attaching a poorly-drawn representation so that you can
> > visualize
> > >> it.
> > >> >> Furling and unfurling the mainsail, if I remember correctly and
> it's
> > >> been a long time, used to be accomplished with the blue and black
> lines
> > on
> > >> the bottom of the boom.
> > >> >> At some point, part of the boom-carriage broke (hoping that I can
> > >> still order parts?) and so the front, black line goes to nothing and
> is
> > >> routed thru nothing, currently... which complicates trying to figure
> > things
> > >> out.
> > >> >> Routing that line through the IMF shaft and to the carriage would
> > make
> > >> sense, but the line seems a bit short and space seems tight.
> "Seems..."
> > >> >> Any help would be much appreciated.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Mike Blagg
> > >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> >> Name: sail rigging.jpg
> > >> >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> >> Size: 69185 bytes
> > >> >> Desc: not available
> > >> >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/af2109cf/attachment.jpg
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Message: 4
> > >> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:21:20 -0400
> > >> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> > >> To: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Head ventilation
> > >> Message-ID: <8602DCF2-A4C3-4B30-AAD8-21C7857737E0 at verizon.net>
> > >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > >>
> > >> Greetings all, Roger is quite right about the load on the cabin and a
> > >> compression post had to be added to the boat pictured with the
> hatches.
> > >> Scott A.
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >> > On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:23?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > ?Hi All,
> > >> >
> > >> > Unfortunately, we don?t have Stan available anymore to ask. I would
> > >> like to ask him if he did anything to reinforce the cabin roof when
> GBI
> > >> implemented those 2 opening hatches. Those 2 hatches together
> > represent a
> > >> lot of cabin roof structure removed around the area loaded by the
> mast.
> > >> Was the cabin roof so over designed initially; that, 2 big holes can
> be
> > cut
> > >> into it without compromising the structure? If Stan had to reinforce
> > the
> > >> cabin roof with something like C fiber; then, he never mentioned it in
> > any
> > >> advertisement that I saw. I wish there was someone to ask re this
> issue
> > >> because my ?calibrated engineer?s eye? says ?too weak?. Scott, I
> advise
> > >> you to proceed cautiously, because the cabin roof would be hard to fix
> > if
> > >> you weaken it too much.
> > >> >
> > >> > Roger Pihlaja
> > >> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >
> > >> >> On Jul 28, 2024, at 6:05?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >> ?Here?s my friend Don?s hatches
> > >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> >> Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> >> Size: 110591 bytes
> > >> >> Desc: not available
> > >> >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240728/9b752101/attachment.jpeg
> > >> >
> > >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >> >>
> > >> >>>> On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:56?AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> ?Stand up head sounds nice! I lowered my head floor by 1" when I
> > >> rebuilt the
> > >> >>> interior but I didn't go as low as silver heels cuz I have
> multiple
> > >> bilge
> > >> >>> pumps. More headroom would be nice
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>>> On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 10:00?PM Michael D. Weisner <
> > >> Mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > >> >>>> wrote:
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> It's known as a "stand up head" for just that reason.
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>> Mike
> > >> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>>
> > >> >>>>>> On Sat, July 27, 2024 9:32 pm, Kenwood _ wrote:
> > >> >>>>>> Hey all! As I'm starting to attack the quality of life mods
> that
> > I
> > >> want
> > >> >>>> to
> > >> >>>>> do in my boat I'm noticing that your more modern boats have some
> > >> stuff
> > >> >>>> I'm
> > >> >>>>> really jealous of!
> > >> >>>>>
> > >> >>>>> I'm looking at a lot of ventilation options for the head but
> > >> they're all
> > >> >>>>> kind of undersized or made for RVs. The new boats seem to have a
> > >> hatch
> > >> >>>>> over
> > >> >>>>> the head! That's really awesome, but I can't seem to find
> hatches
> > >> that
> > >> >>>> are
> > >> >>>>> that small it's not a very large space to put in a hatch and I'm
> > >> worried
> > >> >>>>> about cutting away too much of the roof.
> > >> >>>>>
> > >> >>>>> Does anybody have hatch dimensions or perhaps know where they
> can
> > be
> > >> >>>>> sourced? A hatch that could be opened Right above the head would
> > be
> > >> >>>> better
> > >> >>>>> than any RV fan ventilator I can think of and it might even give
> > >> you so
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