From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Jun  1 09:07:03 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2024 09:07:03 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
Message-ID: <E1sDORr-0000000E98u-2mcG@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

As part of preparing to go sailing in a few weeks, I put up my mast yesterday, and discovered that I was wrong.  My boom topping lift is routed aft of the spreader.  

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-26, at 21:04:53 EDT, Peter Nyberg wrote:
>
> Graham,
> 
> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top of the 
> mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had the mast down, 
> and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal. 
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of the cabin 
> top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down to the deck 
> forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block is further aft, 
> and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to figure out which path 
> is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to reroute the line one way or the 
> other with a boat hook. 
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> 



From gramille at tds.net  Sat Jun  1 09:31:14 2024
From: gramille at tds.net (Graham Parker)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 09:31:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <E1sDORr-0000000E98u-2mcG@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sDORr-0000000E98u-2mcG@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <EF060C47-31B6-4E14-B438-C388A6D4F6FB@tds.net>

Thanks Peter,
I routed mine that way and had a nice sail yesterday!
Cheers
Graham

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2024, at 9:07?AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?As part of preparing to go sailing in a few weeks, I put up my mast yesterday, and discovered that I was wrong.  My boom topping lift is routed aft of the spreader.  
> 
> --Peter
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-05-26, at 21:04:53 EDT, Peter Nyberg wrote:
>> 
>> Graham,
>> 
>> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top of the
>> mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had the mast down,
>> and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.
>> 
>> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of the cabin
>> top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down to the deck
>> forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block is further aft,
>> and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to figure out which path
>> is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to reroute the line one way or the
>> other with a boat hook.
>> 
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>> 
> 
> 


From gramille at tds.net  Sat Jun  1 10:57:38 2024
From: gramille at tds.net (Graham Parker)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 10:57:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
Message-ID: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>

What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the correct tension is reached?
 I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time consuming.
I bet some of you have much better solutions?
Cheers
Graham Parker
sv ?00Sailin'

From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Sat Jun  1 11:23:15 2024
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 11:23:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
In-Reply-To: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
References: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRqaBh9_LRmPBnjMQ41zwTiG2DNhMFWqni5UPHoLLOo_0g@mail.gmail.com>

Graham, I have found using stainless steel safety wire (used in aircraft)
works well. It comes in small rolls. I cut about 3 inches or 75 mm  and
feed it through the hole in the turnbuckle bolts and around the  turnbuckle
body then three twists. Then snip off the excess and bend it to the inside.
Cheap and holds well but if you need to adjust later , just snipe it off
and adjust and re apply. I got the idea from working on naval
aircraft's electronic gear many many years ago. Try it, you will like it.
Cary Tolbert
S/V Whisper
Claytor Lake, VA

On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 10:57?AM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:

> What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the
> correct tension is reached?
>  I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time
> consuming.
> I bet some of you have much better solutions?
> Cheers
> Graham Parker
> sv ?00Sailin'

From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Sat Jun  1 11:30:35 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 08:30:35 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
In-Reply-To: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
References: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuO5DqeR0C4Xznw05sDj9XvHhvnt9u6F5a3e49yQ-1ZKSw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi:

I use velcro fast pins. Available from Amazon and Defender. I haven't
bought them in a while, but I think  the smallest size is what I purchased.

Cheers,

Shawn
s/v Sweet Baboo (1986/2010)


On Sat, Jun 1, 2024, 7:57?AM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:

> What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the
> correct tension is reached?
>  I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time
> consuming.
> I bet some of you have much better solutions?
> Cheers
> Graham Parker
> sv ?00Sailin'

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Sat Jun  1 12:18:42 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 12:18:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRqaBh9_LRmPBnjMQ41zwTiG2DNhMFWqni5UPHoLLOo_0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
 <CAPQvPRqaBh9_LRmPBnjMQ41zwTiG2DNhMFWqni5UPHoLLOo_0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBDzNMKneVihKFLr9ZD-aLUYPPF-yAXyBD4mAqZVFAL2aA@mail.gmail.com>

Cary,
What gauge stainless steel safety wire did you use?
Thanks

Bob Garrant
S/V Sail la Vie
Kent Island, Maryland


On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 11:23?AM Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:

> Graham, I have found using stainless steel safety wire (used in aircraft)
> works well. It comes in small rolls. I cut about 3 inches or 75 mm  and
> feed it through the hole in the turnbuckle bolts and around the  turnbuckle
> body then three twists. Then snip off the excess and bend it to the inside.
> Cheap and holds well but if you need to adjust later , just snipe it off
> and adjust and re apply. I got the idea from working on naval
> aircraft's electronic gear many many years ago. Try it, you will like it.
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper
> Claytor Lake, VA
>
> On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 10:57?AM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:
>
> > What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the
> > correct tension is reached?
> >  I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time
> > consuming.
> > I bet some of you have much better solutions?
> > Cheers
> > Graham Parker
> > sv ?00Sailin'
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Jun  1 12:31:15 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2024 12:31:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
Message-ID: <E1sDRdT-0000000H0IU-3Pop@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I use jamb nuts.  One right-hand threaded and one left-hand threaded per turnbuckle.  McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com) is one source for left-handed nuts.

I've never had one loosen up on its own.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-01, at 10:57:38 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
>
> What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the correct 
> tension is reached? 
>  I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time consuming. 
> I bet some of you have much better solutions? 
> Cheers
> Graham Parker
> sv ?00Sailin'
> 



From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Sat Jun  1 12:36:36 2024
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 12:36:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBDzNMKneVihKFLr9ZD-aLUYPPF-yAXyBD4mAqZVFAL2aA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
 <CAPQvPRqaBh9_LRmPBnjMQ41zwTiG2DNhMFWqni5UPHoLLOo_0g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPi3tBDzNMKneVihKFLr9ZD-aLUYPPF-yAXyBD4mAqZVFAL2aA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRo_rn-k=F=sWi5OmGmB-xizKHfh=S4cBsEYAgay5L4ozA@mail.gmail.com>

Bob , I think it is .032 dia. I believe you can get 100 ft rolls on Amazon.
It ranges from $10 to $15 per roll.
I went traditional the first year with my boat but soon was frustrated with
the difficulty and expense plus the difficulty of getting the carter pins
in stainless steel.  Also being of Scottish genes I knew weather was a
better way. The last 11 years I have used the safety wire system and still
have 75% of the roll in my tool box on the boat..

Cary Tolbert
S/V Whisper
Claytor Lake, VA



On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 12:18?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:

> Cary,
> What gauge stainless steel safety wire did you use?
> Thanks
>
> Bob Garrant
> S/V Sail la Vie
> Kent Island, Maryland
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 11:23?AM Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Graham, I have found using stainless steel safety wire (used in aircraft)
> > works well. It comes in small rolls. I cut about 3 inches or 75 mm  and
> > feed it through the hole in the turnbuckle bolts and around the
> turnbuckle
> > body then three twists. Then snip off the excess and bend it to the
> inside.
> > Cheap and holds well but if you need to adjust later , just snipe it off
> > and adjust and re apply. I got the idea from working on naval
> > aircraft's electronic gear many many years ago. Try it, you will like it.
> > Cary Tolbert
> > S/V Whisper
> > Claytor Lake, VA
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 10:57?AM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:
> >
> > > What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the
> > > correct tension is reached?
> > >  I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time
> > > consuming.
> > > I bet some of you have much better solutions?
> > > Cheers
> > > Graham Parker
> > > sv ?00Sailin'
> >
>

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Sat Jun  1 12:57:34 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2024 12:57:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stay tightening
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRo_rn-k=F=sWi5OmGmB-xizKHfh=S4cBsEYAgay5L4ozA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30DD0723-2C4F-407B-AB71-D2C35A750E0E@tds.net>
 <CAPQvPRqaBh9_LRmPBnjMQ41zwTiG2DNhMFWqni5UPHoLLOo_0g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPi3tBDzNMKneVihKFLr9ZD-aLUYPPF-yAXyBD4mAqZVFAL2aA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPQvPRo_rn-k=F=sWi5OmGmB-xizKHfh=S4cBsEYAgay5L4ozA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBC35VzJbAi7_18_Jzvd8+xk2JxOrfqjn_F-BP7=Nkn1_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Cary
It seems like a much more efficient way to go.
I launch my boat in the spring and haul it out in the late fall. The most
consuming part of the exercise is installing or removing the cotter rings
from the turnbuckles.
I?ll install some this week

Bob


On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 12:36?PM Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob , I think it is .032 dia. I believe you can get 100 ft rolls on Amazon.
> It ranges from $10 to $15 per roll.
> I went traditional the first year with my boat but soon was frustrated with
> the difficulty and expense plus the difficulty of getting the carter pins
> in stainless steel.  Also being of Scottish genes I knew weather was a
> better way. The last 11 years I have used the safety wire system and still
> have 75% of the roll in my tool box on the boat..
>
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper
> Claytor Lake, VA
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 12:18?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Cary,
> > What gauge stainless steel safety wire did you use?
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bob Garrant
> > S/V Sail la Vie
> > Kent Island, Maryland
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 11:23?AM Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Graham, I have found using stainless steel safety wire (used in
> aircraft)
> > > works well. It comes in small rolls. I cut about 3 inches or 75 mm  and
> > > feed it through the hole in the turnbuckle bolts and around the
> > turnbuckle
> > > body then three twists. Then snip off the excess and bend it to the
> > inside.
> > > Cheap and holds well but if you need to adjust later , just snipe it
> off
> > > and adjust and re apply. I got the idea from working on naval
> > > aircraft's electronic gear many many years ago. Try it, you will like
> it.
> > > Cary Tolbert
> > > S/V Whisper
> > > Claytor Lake, VA
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 1, 2024 at 10:57?AM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > What are people's preferred method of the locking the stays once the
> > > > correct tension is reached?
> > > >  I find the cotter rings/split rings to be extremely fiddly and time
> > > > consuming.
> > > > I bet some of you have much better solutions?
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Graham Parker
> > > > sv ?00Sailin'
> > >
> >
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Jun  6 13:05:56 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2024 13:05:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>

Roger, et. al.,

Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil dripping
from carb intake and smoking some.
I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything under
the hood is pristine clean.

Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained out
also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil and my
wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
culprit.

I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in some
oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year old
tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are probably
not an issue.

So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be fixed
already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I have
the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case it
is still stuck.

Patrick










On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
>
> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter will
> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of PBR
> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>
> Thanks Roger,
> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it might
> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester with
> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years ago
> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am guessing I
> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester in
> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
>
> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
>
> Patrick
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Patrick,
> >
> > I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out the
> > carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
> > level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
> > carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> > contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
> would
> > get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> > resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> > consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> > disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
> dry.
> > I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston rings.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Hi Patrick,
> > >
> > > I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
> > my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> > determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> > compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> > compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> > valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
> engine
> > oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.
> > If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If
> > the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
> >  The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> > However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
> > rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
> > crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> > Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently crank
> it
> > over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the
> > engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and
> > change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't
> > have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
> > rings.
> > >
> > > My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> > atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
> > cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
> > engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed
> to
> > get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
> > there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
> However, I
> > suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
> clogged.
> > So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify
> > that the plumbing is free and clear.
> > >
> > > Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> > >
> > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > > 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> > > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> > >
> > > Patrick,
> > >
> > > I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would
> > know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine
> > probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> > >
> > > My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> > Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of
> the
> > crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air
> > filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
> become
> > saturated with oil.
> > >
> > > Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
> > dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck)
> > piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> > combustion path.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > > Nissequogue River, NY
> > > I?d rather be sailing :~)
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> > PBR
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> > >
> > > Hello all.
> > >
> > > I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
> years.
> > > It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> > untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
> > expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> > started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
> > with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> > first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
> > thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> > > Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
> > but not constant at all speeds.
> > >
> > > Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
> (clean
> > golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog*
> or
> > something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
> > but runs pretty good)
> > >
> > > This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate
> to
> > scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
> than
> > a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> > solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
> cowling
> > so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> > >
> > > The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> > sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> > >
> > > My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> > running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure
> of
> > any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> > >
> > > Patrick
> > >
> >
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Jun  6 13:29:01 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2024 13:29:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] GB tiller-motor link geometry problem
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+Chc6FN_djYT5TTmKf_CnJxDdGqVRww0p6rhWakr8235Q@mail.gmail.com>

On this new to me 89 recycled 2012 I have issues with the tiller link.  On
my first boat I made a link that worked pretty well.  I recall at higher
speed it wanted to just go straight (which was fine).

This one is really squirrelly.  If you start to turn it seems unstable and
just wants to go full into a hard turn.  From these pics. at center, turned
max port, and max starboard - you can see that the motor is turning much
faster than the rudder and it actually stops the rudder from turning as
much as I would like to cruise into dock.  It also kind of binds up as the
max angle resists turning back from the stops.

On my home built I tried to get the distance from the rudder rotation point
to the connecting bar, and the distance from the motor rotation point to
the attach point on it to be about the same radius.  In this GB setup, the
rudder pin to connection pivot point  is about 16 inches whereas on the
motor it is only about 5 inches.  I think this is the problem and I
probably need to build an extension to move the attach point on the motor
top out further behind it.

Thoughts?

I sort of need this linkage for maneuvering in shallow water where my
rudder might get kicked up.  If I leave the motor straight I could have
prop. impact.

Patrick
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Jun  6 14:58:37 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2024 14:58:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] GB tiller-motor link geometry problem
Message-ID: <E1sFIJp-0000000DhwZ-1WUE@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Patrick,

I think your diagnosis of the geometry issue is correct.  On my boat, the distance from link attachment point to pivot point is about the same for both rudder and outboard (roughly 14" I guesstimated).  This way, the rudder and outboard are always pointed in about the same direction.  

I also noticed that my outboard has stops that prevent it from pivoting more than about 45 degrees.

In addition to trying to figure out a way to move the outboard attachment point aft, you could perhaps shift the rudder attachment point forward.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)



[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-06, at 13:29:01 EDT, Patrick Riley wrote:
>
> On this new to me 89 recycled 2012 I have issues with the tiller link.  On my 
> first boat I made a link that worked pretty well.  I recall at higher speed it 
> wanted to just go straight (which was fine). 
> 
> This one is really squirrelly.  If you start to turn it seems unstable and just 
> wants to go full into a hard turn.  From these pics. at center, turned max port, 
> and max starboard - you can see that the motor is turning much faster than the 
> rudder and it actually stops the rudder from turning as much as I would like to 
> cruise into dock.  It also kind of binds up as the max angle resists turning 
> back from the stops. 
> 
> On my home built I tried to get the distance from the rudder rotation point to 
> the connecting bar, and the distance from the motor rotation point to the attach 
> point on it to be about the same radius.  In this GB setup, the rudder pin to 
> connection pivot point  is about 16 inches whereas on the motor it is only about 
> 5 inches.  I think this is the problem and I probably need to build an extension 
> to move the attach point on the motor top out further behind it. 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> I sort of need this linkage for maneuvering in shallow water where my rudder 
> might get kicked up.  If I leave the motor straight I could have prop. impact. 
> 
> Patrick



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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Jun  6 17:04:36 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2024 21:04:36 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] GB tiller-motor link geometry problem
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+Chc6FN_djYT5TTmKf_CnJxDdGqVRww0p6rhWakr8235Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+Chc6FN_djYT5TTmKf_CnJxDdGqVRww0p6rhWakr8235Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288E7AC6D1ECCF4FF99E4E080FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Patrick,

Using your straight overhead photo, I estimate the ratio of the [Rudder Pivot R] / [Motor Pivot R] ~ 3.2 .  This is an example of a type of mechanical amplifier.  ie, The motor would turn about 3.2 X as many degrees as the rudder turns.  There is also about that much torque amplification.  However, mechanical amplifiers like this have a very limited range of linear operation.  It has to do with the linkage geometry and the nonlinear behavior of trig functions.  Outside of this range, the linkage behavior becomes very nonlinear.  If you moved the rudder pivot forward so that the above ratio is < ~ 2, you will find the linear range is increased and there will still be sufficient torque multiplication such that the tiller will not be too hard to move.  I?m afraid if you shorten the [Rudder Pivot R] too much and approach a ratio ~ 1.0; that, the tiller will take a lot of force to operate and you will lose ?rudder feel? , especially under sail.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:29?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?On this new to me 89 recycled 2012 I have issues with the tiller link.  On
> my first boat I made a link that worked pretty well.  I recall at higher
> speed it wanted to just go straight (which was fine).
>
> This one is really squirrelly.  If you start to turn it seems unstable and
> just wants to go full into a hard turn.  From these pics. at center, turned
> max port, and max starboard - you can see that the motor is turning much
> faster than the rudder and it actually stops the rudder from turning as
> much as I would like to cruise into dock.  It also kind of binds up as the
> max angle resists turning back from the stops.
>
> On my home built I tried to get the distance from the rudder rotation point
> to the connecting bar, and the distance from the motor rotation point to
> the attach point on it to be about the same radius.  In this GB setup, the
> rudder pin to connection pivot point  is about 16 inches whereas on the
> motor it is only about 5 inches.  I think this is the problem and I
> probably need to build an extension to move the attach point on the motor
> top out further behind it.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> I sort of need this linkage for maneuvering in shallow water where my
> rudder might get kicked up.  If I leave the motor straight I could have
> prop. impact.
>
> Patrick
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Jun  6 18:17:06 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2024 22:17:06 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Patrick,

Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out with minimal disassembly:

Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move the float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.

Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the needle valve.

Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off any residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the needle valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the fuel line inlet.

Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.

Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.

A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.  But, the engine should still run.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Roger, et. al.,
> 
> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil dripping
> from carb intake and smoking some.
> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything under
> the hood is pristine clean.
> 
> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained out
> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil and my
> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
> culprit.
> 
> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in some
> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year old
> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are probably
> not an issue.
> 
> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be fixed
> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I have
> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case it
> is still stuck.
> 
> Patrick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Patrick,
>> 
>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter will
>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of PBR
>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>> 
>> Thanks Roger,
>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it might
>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester with
>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years ago
>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am guessing I
>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester in
>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
>> 
>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
>> 
>> Patrick
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi Patrick,
>>> 
>>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out the
>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
>> would
>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
>> dry.
>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston rings.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Hi Patrick,
>>>> 
>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
>> engine
>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.
>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If
>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently crank
>> it
>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the
>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and
>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't
>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
>>> rings.
>>>> 
>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed
>> to
>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
>> However, I
>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
>> clogged.
>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify
>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
>>>> 
>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>> 
>>>> Patrick,
>>>> 
>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would
>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine
>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>>>> 
>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of
>> the
>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air
>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
>> become
>>> saturated with oil.
>>>> 
>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck)
>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
>>> combustion path.
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>> PBR
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>> 
>>>> Hello all.
>>>> 
>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
>> years.
>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
>>> but not constant at all speeds.
>>>> 
>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
>> (clean
>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog*
>> or
>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
>>> but runs pretty good)
>>>> 
>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate
>> to
>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
>> than
>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
>> cowling
>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>>>> 
>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
>>>> 
>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure
>> of
>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>>>> 
>>>> Patrick
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Fri Jun  7 15:29:10 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2024 14:29:10 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
Message-ID: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi everyone,

I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on mooring to a
buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.

Much appreciated,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN

From lgioia at yahoo.com  Fri Jun  7 15:36:46 2024
From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2024 19:36:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>

 I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each end to the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a separate line that goes to the mooring.?
And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
Larry
    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Hi everyone,

I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.? Any advice on mooring to a
buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.

Much appreciated,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN
  

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Jun  7 15:54:37 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2024 19:54:37 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Larry,

Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the boat onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used to be?  What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going to have to do to repair ?

Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the mooring line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring buoy.  You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t ride too far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the 2nd line.  I presume this will be temporary?

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each end to the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a separate line that goes to the mooring. 
> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> Larry
>    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:  
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on mooring to a
> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> 
> Much appreciated,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
> 

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Jun  8 12:54:31 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2024 11:54:31 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry everyone,

I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we had
folks out for a stunning sunset sail.



Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was attached
to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust. I  use
a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly sheltered but
when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so there
can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds at
times.

Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?

Thanks so much,
Matt Wilson
HornblowerII
White Bear Lake, MN

On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Larry,
>
> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the boat
> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used to be?
> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going to have
> to do to repair ?
>
> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the mooring
> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring buoy.
> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t ride too
> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the 2nd
> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each end to
> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a separate
> line that goes to the mooring.
> > And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> > Larry
> >    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on mooring
> to a
> > buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> >
> > Much appreciated,
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake, MN
> >
>

From sea20 at verizon.net  Sat Jun  8 15:45:57 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (sea20 at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2024 19:45:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Head stay
References: <1109937308.1959763.1717875957653.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1109937308.1959763.1717875957653@mail.yahoo.com>

Greetings all, I hope everyone is well and enjoying the water. I broke my head stay in a recent storm. Thanks to Roger for the excellent video on the subject. As I was cleaning the furler I found the cup with the seven bead like bearings. It was unsecured and I wondered if there was any sailors the could refer me to information regarding its assembly. I am unsure of the manufacturer.
Many thanks,? ?Scott Andrews

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sat Jun  8 16:41:37 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2024 16:41:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>

Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If so, you
run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber for
shock reduction.

Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Sorry everyone,
>
> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we had
> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>
>
>
> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was attached
> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust. I  use
> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly sheltered but
> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so there
> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds at
> times.
>
> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>
> Thanks so much,
> Matt Wilson
> HornblowerII
> White Bear Lake, MN
>
> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Larry,
> >
> > Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the boat
> > onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used to
> be?
> > What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going to
> have
> > to do to repair ?
> >
> > Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the mooring
> > line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring buoy.
> > You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t ride
> too
> > far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the 2nd
> > line.  I presume this will be temporary?
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each end
> to
> > the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a separate
> > line that goes to the mooring.
> > > And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> > > Larry
> > >    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> > mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on mooring
> > to a
> > > buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> > >
> > > Much appreciated,
> > > Matt Wilson
> > > Hornblower II
> > > White Bear Lake, MN
> > >
> >
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Jun  8 17:04:56 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2024 16:04:56 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Stewart,

I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
size and type of line would you recommend?

Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake MN

On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If so, you
> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber for
> shock reduction.
>
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Sorry everyone,
> >
> > I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we had
> > folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
> >
> >
> >
> > Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
> attached
> > to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust. I
> use
> > a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly sheltered
> but
> > when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
> there
> > can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds at
> > times.
> >
> > Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
> > thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
> >
> > Thanks so much,
> > Matt Wilson
> > HornblowerII
> > White Bear Lake, MN
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Larry,
> > >
> > > Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
> boat
> > > onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used to
> > be?
> > > What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going to
> > have
> > > to do to repair ?
> > >
> > > Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
> mooring
> > > line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
> buoy.
> > > You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t ride
> > too
> > > far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the 2nd
> > > line.  I presume this will be temporary?
> > >
> > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >
> > > > On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each end
> > to
> > > the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
> separate
> > > line that goes to the mooring.
> > > > And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> > > > Larry
> > > >    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> > > mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi everyone,
> > > >
> > > > I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
> mooring
> > > to a
> > > > buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> > > >
> > > > Much appreciated,
> > > > Matt Wilson
> > > > Hornblower II
> > > > White Bear Lake, MN
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun  8 20:04:05 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 00:04:05 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288CB8A4915F4AEAE31299F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

The bow eye on my boat is a continuous piece of round bar stock bent into a U shape and welded to a base plate.  If the bar stock sheared off clean above the base plate; then, there is a good chance the fiberglass is OK.  However, if the base plate is bent, or there is a gap between the base plate and the bow, or there is gouging or cracking in the bow fiberglass; then, you need to remove whatever is left of the old bow eye.  Inspect the inside and outside of the hull for cracking or other signs of damage.  That bow eye is such a stout fitting; that, I?d be very surprised if it could be broken off without damaging the fiberglass substrate underneath.

When you say the bow eye fitting failed due to fatigue, how do you know that?  Does the failure show signs of rusting or pitting near the surface and a clean fracture thru the center?  If the failure is clean all the way thru, that indicates the fitting was just overloaded in a single event.

It?s considered good practice to use a heavy line from the mooring buoy to the boat.  Of course, you have to keep an eye on it for UV damage or chafe.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 8, 2024, at 5:05?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thank you Stewart,
> 
> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
> size and type of line would you recommend?
> 
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake MN
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If so, you
>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber for
>> shock reduction.
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Sorry everyone,
>>> 
>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we had
>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>> attached
>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust. I
>> use
>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly sheltered
>> but
>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
>> there
>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds at
>>> times.
>>> 
>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>> 
>>> Thanks so much,
>>> Matt Wilson
>>> HornblowerII
>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>> 
>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
>> boat
>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used to
>>> be?
>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going to
>>> have
>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>> 
>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>> mooring
>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
>> buoy.
>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t ride
>>> too
>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the 2nd
>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each end
>>> to
>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>> separate
>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>> Larry
>>>>>   On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>> mooring
>>>> to a
>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sat Jun  8 20:55:44 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2024 20:55:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>

I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the chocks
to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you Stewart,
>
> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
> size and type of line would you recommend?
>
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake MN
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If so,
> you
> > run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
> > connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber for
> > shock reduction.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Sorry everyone,
> > >
> > > I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we had
> > > folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
> > attached
> > > to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust. I
> > use
> > > a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly sheltered
> > but
> > > when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
> > there
> > > can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds at
> > > times.
> > >
> > > Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
> > > thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
> > >
> > > Thanks so much,
> > > Matt Wilson
> > > HornblowerII
> > > White Bear Lake, MN
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Larry,
> > > >
> > > > Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
> > boat
> > > > onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used
> to
> > > be?
> > > > What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going
> to
> > > have
> > > > to do to repair ?
> > > >
> > > > Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
> > mooring
> > > > line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
> > buoy.
> > > > You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
> ride
> > > too
> > > > far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the 2nd
> > > > line.  I presume this will be temporary?
> > > >
> > > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > > > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > > >
> > > > Sent from my iPhone
> > > >
> > > > > On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> > > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each
> end
> > > to
> > > > the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
> > separate
> > > > line that goes to the mooring.
> > > > > And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> > > > > Larry
> > > > >    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> > > > mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi everyone,
> > > > >
> > > > > I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
> > mooring
> > > > to a
> > > > > buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> > > > >
> > > > > Much appreciated,
> > > > > Matt Wilson
> > > > > Hornblower II
> > > > > White Bear Lake, MN
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Jun  8 21:09:10 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2024 21:09:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Head stay
Message-ID: <E1sG73W-0000000E4YS-15Wi@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Scott,

Your description isn't ringing any bells with me.  Perhaps a picture would help.  It might at least identify the brand of furler.

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-08, at 15:45:57 EDT, sea20 at verizon.net wrote:
>
> Greetings all, I hope everyone is well and enjoying the water. I broke my head 
> stay in a recent storm. Thanks to Roger for the excellent video on the subject. 
> As I was cleaning the furler I found the cup with the seven bead like bearings. 
> It was unsecured and I wondered if there was any sailors the could refer me to 
> information regarding its assembly. I am unsure of the manufacturer. 
> Many thanks,&nbsp; &nbsp;Scott Andrews
> 



From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Jun  8 23:20:48 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2024 22:20:48 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks guys,

What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring ball. A
metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?

The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring but
one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present the
backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no metal
plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust about
40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the warning on
the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see anything
as I was installing the new one.



On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the chocks
> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thank you Stewart,
> >
> > I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
> > size and type of line would you recommend?
> >
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake MN
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If so,
> > you
> > > run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
> > > connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber
> for
> > > shock reduction.
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Sorry everyone,
> > > >
> > > > I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
> had
> > > > folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
> > > attached
> > > > to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust.
> I
> > > use
> > > > a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
> sheltered
> > > but
> > > > when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
> > > there
> > > > can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds
> at
> > > > times.
> > > >
> > > > Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
> > > > thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks so much,
> > > > Matt Wilson
> > > > HornblowerII
> > > > White Bear Lake, MN
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Larry,
> > > > >
> > > > > Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
> > > boat
> > > > > onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used
> > to
> > > > be?
> > > > > What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going
> > to
> > > > have
> > > > > to do to repair ?
> > > > >
> > > > > Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
> > > mooring
> > > > > line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
> > > buoy.
> > > > > You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
> > ride
> > > > too
> > > > > far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
> 2nd
> > > > > line.  I presume this will be temporary?
> > > > >
> > > > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > > > > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > > > >
> > > > > Sent from my iPhone
> > > > >
> > > > > > On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> > > > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each
> > end
> > > > to
> > > > > the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
> > > separate
> > > > > line that goes to the mooring.
> > > > > > And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> > > > > > Larry
> > > > > >    On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> > > > > mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi everyone,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
> > > mooring
> > > > > to a
> > > > > > buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Much appreciated,
> > > > > > Matt Wilson
> > > > > > Hornblower II
> > > > > > White Bear Lake, MN
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Jun  9 07:17:18 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 11:17:18 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,
So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the anchor?  I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring ball.  It it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to put it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and replace it relatively easily.

I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own rigging guidelines.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks guys,
> 
> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring ball. A
> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
> 
> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring but
> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present the
> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no metal
> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust about
> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the warning on
> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see anything
> as I was installing the new one.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the chocks
>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>> Graham Stewart
>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>> 
>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>> 
>>> Matt Wilson
>>> Hornblower II
>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>> 
>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If so,
>>> you
>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber
>> for
>>>> shock reduction.
>>>> 
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>> had
>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>> attached
>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust.
>> I
>>>> use
>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>> sheltered
>>>> but
>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
>>>> there
>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds
>> at
>>>>> times.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
>>>> boat
>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used
>>> to
>>>>> be?
>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going
>>> to
>>>>> have
>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>> mooring
>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
>>>> buoy.
>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>> ride
>>>>> too
>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>> 2nd
>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each
>>> end
>>>>> to
>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>> separate
>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>   On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>> mooring
>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Jun  9 07:26:02 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 11:26:02 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Head stay
In-Reply-To: <E1sG73W-0000000E4YS-15Wi@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sG73W-0000000E4YS-15Wi@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288FF2CA0B9B1DA02EF38C780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Scott,

My OEM roller furler had plastic bushings for bearings (Torlon I think).  So, no ball bearings.  My current Harken Unit 0 roller furler has 3 sets of ball bearings in the lower unit.  But, all of them have more than 7 balls.  So, I have no idea what you?ve got.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 8, 2024, at 9:09?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Scott,
> 
> Your description isn't ringing any bells with me.  Perhaps a picture would help.  It might at least identify the brand of furler.
> 
> --Peter
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-08, at 15:45:57 EDT, sea20 at verizon.net wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings all, I hope everyone is well and enjoying the water. I broke my head
>> stay in a recent storm. Thanks to Roger for the excellent video on the subject.
>> As I was cleaning the furler I found the cup with the seven bead like bearings.
>> It was unsecured and I wondered if there was any sailors the could refer me to
>> information regarding its assembly. I am unsure of the manufacturer.
>> Many thanks,&nbsp; &nbsp;Scott Andrews
>> 
> 
> 

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sun Jun  9 07:57:00 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 06:57:00 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,

Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a shackle
directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
 ??

The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.

Matt

On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Matt,
> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the anchor?
> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring ball.  It
> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to put
> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
> replace it relatively easily.
>
> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
> rigging guidelines.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Thanks guys,
> >
> > What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring ball. A
> > metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
> >
> > The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
> but
> > one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present the
> > backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no metal
> > plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust about
> > 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the warning
> on
> > the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
> anything
> > as I was installing the new one.
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
> chocks
> >> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Thank you Stewart,
> >>>
> >>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
> >>> size and type of line would you recommend?
> >>>
> >>> Matt Wilson
> >>> Hornblower II
> >>> White Bear Lake MN
> >>>
> >>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
> so,
> >>> you
> >>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
> >>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber
> >> for
> >>>> shock reduction.
> >>>>
> >>>> Graham Stewart
> >>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Sorry everyone,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
> >> had
> >>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
> >>>> attached
> >>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust.
> >> I
> >>>> use
> >>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
> >> sheltered
> >>>> but
> >>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
> >>>> there
> >>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds
> >> at
> >>>>> times.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
> >>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks so much,
> >>>>> Matt Wilson
> >>>>> HornblowerII
> >>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Hi Larry,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
> >>>> boat
> >>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used
> >>> to
> >>>>> be?
> >>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going
> >>> to
> >>>>> have
> >>>>>> to do to repair ?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
> >>>> mooring
> >>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
> >>>> buoy.
> >>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
> >>> ride
> >>>>> too
> >>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
> >> 2nd
> >>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> >>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each
> >>> end
> >>>>> to
> >>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
> >>>> separate
> >>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
> >>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> >>>>>>> Larry
> >>>>>>>   On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> >>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Hi everyone,
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
> >>>> mooring
> >>>>>> to a
> >>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Much appreciated,
> >>>>>>> Matt Wilson
> >>>>>>> Hornblower II
> >>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Jun  9 08:25:53 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 12:25:53 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Roger,
> 
> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a shackle
> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
> ??
> 
> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
> 
> Matt
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Matt,
>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the anchor?
>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring ball.  It
>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to put
>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>> replace it relatively easily.
>> 
>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>> rigging guidelines.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>> 
>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring ball. A
>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>> 
>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>> but
>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present the
>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no metal
>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust about
>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the warning
>> on
>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>> anything
>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>> chocks
>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>> so,
>>>>> you
>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber
>>>> for
>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>> had
>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust.
>>>> I
>>>>>> use
>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>> sheltered
>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
>>>>>> there
>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds
>>>> at
>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used
>>>>> to
>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going
>>>>> to
>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>> ride
>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each
>>>>> end
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>  On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Jun  9 08:42:00 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 12:42:00 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
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 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
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 <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428859EB47A55FBAB96FE41F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Matt,

On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Matt,
> 
> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hi Roger,
>> 
>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a shackle
>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>> ??
>> 
>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>> 
>> Matt
>> 
>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Matt,
>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the anchor?
>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring ball.  It
>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to put
>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>> 
>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>> rigging guidelines.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>> 
>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring ball. A
>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>> 
>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>> but
>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present the
>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no metal
>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust about
>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the warning
>>> on
>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>> anything
>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>> chocks
>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help. What
>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>> so,
>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain. The
>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a snuber
>>>>> for
>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>> had
>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained gust.
>>>>> I
>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water so
>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph winds
>>>>> at
>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?  Any
>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch the
>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring used
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you going
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the mooring
>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at each
>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>> 

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sun Jun  9 09:42:48 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 08:42:48 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428859EB47A55FBAB96FE41F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428859EB47A55FBAB96FE41F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCugj=VV=XKkASyH9swtU9=bps0VqvkquxQfnh2aQy3QwQ@mail.gmail.com>

That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?

If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?

Thanks for your help,

Matt

On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Matt,
> >
> > I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?Hi Roger,
> >>
> >> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
> >> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
> shackle
> >> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
> >> ??
> >>
> >> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
> >> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
> >>
> >> Matt
> >>
> >>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hi Matt,
> >>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
> anchor?
> >>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
> ball.  It
> >>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
> put
> >>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
> >>> replace it relatively easily.
> >>>
> >>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
> >>> rigging guidelines.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> ?Thanks guys,
> >>>>
> >>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
> ball. A
> >>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
> >>>>
> >>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
> >>> but
> >>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
> the
> >>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
> metal
> >>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
> about
> >>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
> warning
> >>> on
> >>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
> >>> anything
> >>>> as I was installing the new one.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> >
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
> >>> chocks
> >>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
> >>>>> Graham Stewart
> >>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
> What
> >>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Matt Wilson
> >>>>>> Hornblower II
> >>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
> >>> so,
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
> The
> >>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
> snuber
> >>>>> for
> >>>>>>> shock reduction.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Graham Stewart
> >>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
> >
> >>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
> >>>>> had
> >>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
> >>>>>>> attached
> >>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
> gust.
> >>>>> I
> >>>>>>> use
> >>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
> >>>>> sheltered
> >>>>>>> but
> >>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
> so
> >>>>>>> there
> >>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
> winds
> >>>>> at
> >>>>>>>> times.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
> Any
> >>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
> >>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
> >>>>>>>> HornblowerII
> >>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
> the
> >>>>>>> boat
> >>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
> used
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>>>> be?
> >>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
> going
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>>>> have
> >>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
> >>>>>>> mooring
> >>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
> mooring
> >>>>>>> buoy.
> >>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
> >>>>>> ride
> >>>>>>>> too
> >>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
> >>>>> 2nd
> >>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> >>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
> each
> >>>>>> end
> >>>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
> >>>>>>> separate
> >>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
> >>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
> >>>>>>>>>> Larry
> >>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
> >>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
> >>>>>>> mooring
> >>>>>>>>> to a
> >>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
> >>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
> >>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
> >>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>
>

From sea20 at verizon.net  Sun Jun  9 10:07:02 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (sea20 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 14:07:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Furler
References: <1871151386.2024472.1717942022175.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1871151386.2024472.1717942022175@mail.yahoo.com>

Peter, here is a photo. I think it's a Harken. Now that I look at it, it looks like the attached cable would hold the spool against the cap with the bearings in it. There was a lot of wear and I was wondering if that cap that been originally threaded onto the end of the furler.?Many thanks,Scott Andrews?
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Jun  9 10:16:15 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 14:16:15 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCugj=VV=XKkASyH9swtU9=bps0VqvkquxQfnh2aQy3QwQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428859EB47A55FBAB96FE41F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCugj=VV=XKkASyH9swtU9=bps0VqvkquxQfnh2aQy3QwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288EEE12BAD076575B5EED680C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Matt,

So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.  Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.  With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.  But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
> top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
> strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
> 
> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Matt
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Matt,
>> 
>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>> 
>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
>> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>> 
>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>> shackle
>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>> ??
>>>> 
>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>> 
>>>> Matt
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>> anchor?
>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>> ball.  It
>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>> put
>>>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>> ball. A
>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>>>> but
>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>> the
>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>> metal
>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>> about
>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>> warning
>>>>> on
>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>> anything
>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>> What
>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>> The
>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
>> snuber
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>> gust.
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>> so
>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>> winds
>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>> Any
>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>> the
>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>> used
>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
>> going
>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>> mooring
>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>> each
>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>> 

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sun Jun  9 10:25:00 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2024 10:25:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Furler
Message-ID: <E1sGJTg-00000005y6M-0RsT@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Scott,

I've never seen a Harken up close, but that looks a lot like my CDI (Cruising Design International http://www.sailcdi.com ). There's a manual in the 'Documents' section of Rhodes22.org (http://www.rhodes22.org/document.html?documents/CDI-FlexibleFurlerModel2-Manual.pdf)

--Peter   


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-09, at 10:07:02 EDT, sea20 at verizon.net wrote:
>
> Peter, here is a photo. I think it's a Harken. Now that I look at it, it looks 
> like the attached cable would hold the spool against the cap with the bearings 
> in it. There was a lot of wear and I was wondering if that cap that been 
> originally threaded onto the end of the furler.&nbsp;Many thanks,Scott Andrews 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240609/858287e6/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">Furler 1.jpg</a> 
> 



From sea20 at verizon.net  Sun Jun  9 11:16:54 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2024 11:16:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Furler
In-Reply-To: <E1sGJTg-00000005y6M-0RsT@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sGJTg-00000005y6M-0RsT@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <807143E7-DD11-48A4-8506-2DB07A315A4E@verizon.net>

Awesome, thanks Peter!
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2024, at 10:25?AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Scott,
> 
> I've never seen a Harken up close, but that looks a lot like my CDI (Cruising Design International http://www.sailcdi.com ). There's a manual in the 'Documents' section of Rhodes22.org (http://www.rhodes22.org/document.html?documents/CDI-FlexibleFurlerModel2-Manual.pdf)
> 
> --Peter   
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-09, at 10:07:02 EDT, sea20 at verizon.net wrote:
>> 
>> Peter, here is a photo. I think it's a Harken. Now that I look at it, it looks
>> like the attached cable would hold the spool against the cap with the bearings
>> in it. There was a lot of wear and I was wondering if that cap that been
>> originally threaded onto the end of the furler.&nbsp;Many thanks,Scott Andrews
>> 
>> <a
>> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240609/858287e6/attachment.jpg"
>> target="_blank">Furler 1.jpg</a>
>> 
> 
> 


From a_czerwonky at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 10 10:47:37 2024
From: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com (Art Czerwonky)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 14:47:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288EEE12BAD076575B5EED680C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B1282C16495E3C326E5780C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCsqkNDj1vGq2oyJVA0TneOuSkpdPHHwC+U=0BaenyGsTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428859EB47A55FBAB96FE41F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCugj=VV=XKkASyH9swtU9=bps0VqvkquxQfnh2aQy3QwQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288EEE12BAD076575B5EED680C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2130768136.4025012.1718030857504@mail.yahoo.com>

Roger,
Would you give a call at 404 295-7777 when convenient. I am going to sell Mary Jane soon and would appreciate your advise.
Appreciate your posts.
Art Czerwonky?

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
 
  On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 10:16 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA<roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:   Matt,

So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.? Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.? With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.? But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?That is the one thing the? city specified is that they want the pennant
> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
> top ring.? If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.? Is it
> strong enough?? Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
> 
> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Matt
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Matt,
>> 
>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>> of the ball from top to bottom.? The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>> at the bottom.? The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>> of the ball.? The steel rod connects everything together.? With the mooring
>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.? It is just
>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.? If
>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.? Otherwise, the
>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.? Polypropylene line is not
>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.? How was your mooring setup?
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>> 
>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>> shackle at the mooring ball.? Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>> reduce chafe.? But, keep an eye on it anyway.? A properly done eye splice
>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.? Don?t
>> forget to safety wire your shackles.? I like to run the mooring line thru
>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>> cleat.? Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>> reducing the loads.? But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>> 
>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>> shackle
>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>> ??
>>>> 
>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.? ? They have
>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>> 
>>>> Matt
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>> anchor?
>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>> ball.? It
>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>> put
>>>>> it.? I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>> ball. A
>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.? I never found the U ring
>>>>> but
>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>> the
>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>> metal
>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>> about
>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>> warning
>>>>> on
>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>> anything
>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)? that goes through the
>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>> What
>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>> The
>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should? always use lines. You can add a
>> snuber
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>> gust.
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly? large MN lake.? It?s mostly
>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>> so
>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>> winds
>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>> Any
>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>> the
>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?? Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>> used
>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?? What are you
>> going
>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?? If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>> mooring
>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.? But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.? I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>> line.? I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>> each
>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.? Any advice on
>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>> 
  

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Mon Jun 10 17:12:02 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 17:12:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
Message-ID: <00A4865F-8398-4046-A317-65E12533923B@gmail.com>

The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.  

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC



From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Jun 10 18:24:49 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 18:24:49 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
Message-ID: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT 
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>
> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock with the 
> owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses and electric cords 
> that extend down to the dock, although I think they were using a gas-powered 
> washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems it would save a lot of elbow grease, 
> although of course one has to be careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on 
> the power washer. 
> 
> Frank
> 
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
> 
> 
> 



From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Mon Jun 10 18:28:43 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 18:28:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <A9A38A9F-DF7F-4AFA-8C11-871EB86C1095@gmail.com>

Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?

Frank



> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT 
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>> 
>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock with the 
>> owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses and electric cords 
>> that extend down to the dock, although I think they were using a gas-powered 
>> washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems it would save a lot of elbow grease, 
>> although of course one has to be careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on 
>> the power washer. 
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>> Fairview, NC
>> Lake Keowee, SC
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 


From thyatt at mica.edu  Mon Jun 10 18:29:12 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 18:29:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2LeziUSZsia9Yw5n9L7rusnJOpYonNpOK1-cixqz9nQ7A@mail.gmail.com>

I just finished power washing my '78. It took off all the crud and green
patina that had built up over the winter. I agree with Peter. Expect water
inside if you spray near the hatches. Watch out for decals and striping and
lettering on your boat. Power washing will eat them up.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane 1978
Middle River, Maryland

On Mon, Jun 10, 2024 at 6:24?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you
> spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
> >
> > The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock with
> the
> > owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses and electric
> cords
> > that extend down to the dock, although I think they were using a
> gas-powered
> > washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems it would save a lot of elbow
> grease,
> > although of course one has to be careful to use an appropriate nozzle
> setting on
> > the power washer.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > Frank Goldsmith
> > S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> > Fairview, NC
> > Lake Keowee, SC
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

From a_czerwonky at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 10 18:32:30 2024
From: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com (Art Czerwonky)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 22:32:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <00A4865F-8398-4046-A317-65E12533923B@gmail.com>
References: <00A4865F-8398-4046-A317-65E12533923B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1547796496.4268443.1718058750327@mail.yahoo.com>

Frank,I'm a neighbor on Hartwell and would like to reach you by cell, either email or phone. My # is 404 295-7777.?Art Czerwonky?S/V Mary Jane '86

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
 
  On Mon, Jun 10, 2024 at 5:12 PM, Frank Goldsmith<goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:   The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think they were using a gas-powered washer).? Anyone else try that?? Seems it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.? 

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


  

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Mon Jun 10 18:37:11 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 18:37:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2LeziUSZsia9Yw5n9L7rusnJOpYonNpOK1-cixqz9nQ7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CAEhtY2LeziUSZsia9Yw5n9L7rusnJOpYonNpOK1-cixqz9nQ7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9550C38E-F863-4535-9D0D-846A1DF7D13C@gmail.com>

Good points ? thanks.


> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:29?PM, Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I just finished power washing my '78. It took off all the crud and green
> patina that had built up over the winter. I agree with Peter. Expect water
> inside if you spray near the hatches. Watch out for decals and striping and
> lettering on your boat. Power washing will eat them up.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane 1978
> Middle River, Maryland
> 
> On Mon, Jun 10, 2024 at 6:24?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you
>> spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>> 
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>> 
>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock with
>> the
>>> owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses and electric
>> cords
>>> that extend down to the dock, although I think they were using a
>> gas-powered
>>> washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems it would save a lot of elbow
>> grease,
>>> although of course one has to be careful to use an appropriate nozzle
>> setting on
>>> the power washer.
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>> Fairview, NC
>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Jun 10 18:48:44 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 18:48:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
Message-ID: <E1sGnoi-0000000B3od-2JyV@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I just use straight water.

?Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-10, at 18:28:43 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>
> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you 
> use any kind of cleanser in the power washer? 
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
> 
> 



From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Mon Jun 10 19:40:29 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 18:40:29 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428843F3121447DD89AE5D0080EF2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D3A0CE005142B8895DE380E32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAEqJHY6f95-_tYETv8D6WgCKWccKGkko8UnPtzm+mJzZdYGn_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEqJHY7VWXFgb7EP6YLjkf+HA9KiUFm2YutcGaM_LT3cWyjzHg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F3121447DD89AE5D0080EF2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY6S0yf7sQN5phmc2vx9W6Kk_P0FBc_pw8G-vsMxtkSg4A@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry to hear that Rodger,  It really only needs the two 4" welds and some
wrench turning to add to any existing lift frame. It's really a nice setup.

Considering any offers, else I'm going to fashion a shed frame with the
parts.

Best,
Tom

On Sat, May 18, 2024, 5:35 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom,
>
> It sounds like much more project than I am prepared to take on at the
> moment.  Good luck!
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 18, 2024, at 5:49?PM, Tom Van Heule <
> tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger, this photo is inside a 16ft trailer.  I had no problem using a
> > truckbed to move it all.  I took it from northern MN to WI that way.  It
> > could probably go on a roof rack if an suv.  No pice is a "team lift".
> >
> > Thanks again,
> > Tom
> >
> >> On Sat, May 18, 2024, 4:43 PM Tom Van Heule <
> >> tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Roger.
> >> I attached photos of the welds, and the current storage situation, I was
> >> not home at the moment.
> >>
> >> I do not have the " lift base", this would attach to a.standard lift.
> >> pics is of what I have.  So most of the following questions I can't help
> >> with. I do not know who made it other than it was an employee of the
> >> previous owner.
> >>
> >> Maybe I should call it a custom cradle for the r22 rather a lift.
> >>
> >> Let me know,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Tom
> >>
> >>> On Tue, May 14, 2024, 7:26 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hi Tom,
> >>>
> >>> I have several questions:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>  1.
> >>> The welding you refer to is on aluminum tubing?  Have these spots been
> >>> previously welded?  If they've been previously welded, can you supply a
> >>> photo of the previously welded spots?
> >>>  2.
> >>> Are the legs adjustable for water depth & how deep water can it handle?
> >>>  3.
> >>> None of the pictures illustrate the foot pads.  What style are they;
> i.e.
> >>> screw auger, mud pad, etc?
> >>>  4.
> >>> Manual or electric hoist?  If electric, what voltage and current
> circuit
> >>> is required?
> >>>  5.
> >>> In the pictures, the hoist is on the port side, can it be switched to
> the
> >>> starboard side?
> >>>  6.
> >>> Approximately, what does the lift weigh fully assembled?
> >>>  7.
> >>> Who built it originally, just in case I would need to order longer legs
> >>> &/or different style foot pads?
> >>>  8.
> >>> Disassembled, what are the dimensions of the longest component?
> >>>  9.
> >>> How much are you asking for it?
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com>
> >>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2024 12:44 PM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
> >>>
> >>> Hello everyone! Hope we're all well.
> >>>
> >>> As we since parted with our beloved Octopian and the new owners did not
> >>> want, I have a lift with no boat.
> >>>
> >>> Everything has been stored inside my enclosed trailer since pickup.
> >>> All the wood is fresh, the carpets are clean, the aluminum is straight.
> >>> There are two spots that need welding during assembly (else transport
> is
> >>> unfeasible).
> >>>
> >>> See photos, make offer. Located in Waukesha WI.  Else I will scrap
> >>> together
> >>> the frame of a small shed, lol. However as this is custom made for the
> >>> rarest best boat, I want to offer it here.  I also have all the
> hardware
> >>> and brackets too.
> >>>
> >>> Best,
> >>> Tom
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
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> >>>
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> >>> <
> >>>
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> >>>>>
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> >>> <
> >>>
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> >>> <
> >>>
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> >>>>>
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> >>> <
> >>>
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> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>
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> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Jun 10 19:53:26 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 23:53:26 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <E1sGnoi-0000000B3od-2JyV@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sGnoi-0000000B3od-2JyV@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288604C1C7CB062B7A61CC780C62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>


Hi Frank,

I have a gasoline powered pressure washer.  You regulate the pressure by changing nozzles.  The lowest pressure nozzle does a good job of cleaning everything but rust stains.  For that I use lemon juice diluted 4:1 and a Mr Clean Magic Eraser pad and don?t scrub too hard.  It?s better to let the lemon juice work on the stain for a few hours, scrub, then spray and repeat as necessary.  Be careful spraying around stripes and decals.  The spray will chew them up faster than you can say, ?HOLY SHIT!?.  I just spray with water, no detergent.  I consider a good pressure washer an essential boat owner?s tool.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:48?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I just use straight water.
> 
> ?Peter
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-10, at 18:28:43 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you
>> use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Jun 10 20:27:17 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 00:27:17 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <2130768136.4025012.1718030857504@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CANbEFCtsirKoBxZhnYT+OWrNPsdwg+mWUzZLhcKn2C=OgikF8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <680551099.3281426.1717789006566@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428843F655FEAEF691D87FB480FB2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv6zt5NRy+jy5t_xvyD_oSWFkBK=7UrYMyHZEcAtC2veQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6cwnK-b-LQxV5GPMNZkNF+qr43jO2P2gJV4zrO2H79ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuNBSrjOp+wqg2KcqE_dumK4tLRy0EZmpppcZ=TKEuujA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT4SvESk-uBEmi9=S5fXuONG1hsf2b5gmEs5TR=oiO5pHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurfWyw7aPu5CjeGAbB8XZyKw_uYyzHF+DtkfAL88FOtQ@mail.gmail.com>
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 <MN2PR10MB42881998FCAED14A34740E9F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428859EB47A55FBAB96FE41F80C52@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
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 <2130768136.4025012.1718030857504@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Art,

I?m in the hospital getting a hip replacement.  I?m supposed to be discharged tomorrow afternoon.  I will try to call you then.

Roger Pihlaja 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:47?AM, Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Roger,
> Would you give a call at 404 295-7777 when convenient. I am going to sell Mary Jane soon and would appreciate your advise.
> Appreciate your posts.
> Art Czerwonky 
> 
> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
> 
>  On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 10:16 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA<roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:   Matt,
> 
> So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.  Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.  With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.  But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
>> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
>> top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
>> strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
>> 
>> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
>> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
>> 
>> Thanks for your help,
>> 
>> Matt
>> 
>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Matt,
>>> 
>>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>>> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>>> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>>> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
>>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
>>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
>>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
>>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
>>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford MI
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>>> 
>>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>>> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>>> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
>>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
>>> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
>>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>>> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>>> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>>> shackle
>>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>>> ??
>>>>> 
>>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Matt
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>>> anchor?
>>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>>> ball.  It
>>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>>> put
>>>>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>>> ball. A
>>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>>> the
>>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>>> metal
>>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>>> about
>>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>>> warning
>>>>>> on
>>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>>> anything
>>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>>> What
>>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>>> The
>>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
>>> snuber
>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>>> gust.
>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>>> so
>>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>>> winds
>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>>> Any
>>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>>> used
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
>>> going
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>>> each
>>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>> 
> 

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Mon Jun 10 20:54:33 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 20:54:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Navigation Electronics
In-Reply-To: <D06B5FD5-657D-4B97-9205-928427D8DA8C@gmail.com>
References: <65761648.050a0220.51b2a.a697@mx.google.com>
 <D06B5FD5-657D-4B97-9205-928427D8DA8C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+CTJzYwXQUNKceX6qnGH6cEaVfq+-6UbKyusQU8DkYNKA@mail.gmail.com>

Joe,
Waking up this thread because I find myself with a new in box, but
purchased in 2018,  echomap 94 SD with a long transom mount transducer that
just doesn't fit on the transom anywhere due to the rudder, motor mount,
and swim ladder.

When you put bed of 3m clear silicon in the laz did you make it deep enough
to try to "level" the transducer with the waterline?
Also, did you attach the hinge bracket to the bulkhead with goop or screws?

Thanks
Patrick



On Sun, Dec 10, 2023 at 3:10?PM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Yes, I tried that first but it failed after one year. Maybe I hadn?t used
> enough silicone
> Reuben Mezrich
> Cell:410-499-8922
> Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay in Boston
>
> > On Dec 10, 2023, at 2:49?PM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?My Garmin 74sd came with a transom mount transducer. I mounted it in
> the lazarette by squeezing out a bed of 3M clear silicone just after of the
> cockpit bulkhead on the centerline. Just left the stainless hinge bracket
> on it. Worked fine for 6 years and counting. Saved alot of money not having
> to buy the internal mount X-ducer.Joe DempseyFormer Rhodes 22Trojan 42
> MYDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S23 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
> > -------- Original message --------From: Reuben Mezrich <
> reuben.mezrich at gmail.com> Date: 12/10/23  1:13 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re:
> [Rhodes22-list] Navigation Electronics Turns out the images are too
> large....how do I send them to the list?--ReubenReuben Mezrichcell:
> 410-499-8922Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Back Bay, BostonOn Sun, Dec 10,
> 2023 at 1:01?PM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>wrote:> I
> mounted a Garmin Echomap UHD 73sv on a swing out mount. the mount (made>
> from RAM components) is just inside the companionway on the starboard side>
> and swings into the companionway when underway. It comes with a transducer>
> but it doesn't have a flat bottom so a purchased a "hockey puck" design>
> ultrasound transducer from Amazon that had the same pinouts and epoxied it>
> to the bottom of the lazerette floor. The Echomap has its own internal GPS>
> to give speed, position and heading. I've included images of my setup that>
> been using for years now>> Reuben Mezrich> cell: 410-499-8922> Pelican Cove
> in Sarasota and Back Bay, Boston>>> On Sat, Dec 9, 2023 at 11:28?PM Michael
> McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>> wrote:>>> Tom,>>>> I have dedicated depth
> finder and speed log instruments on my R22. Depth>> is the most useful of
> those. For navigation, I use an iPad with internal>> GPS, although an
> Android tablet with GPS would be fine.  I have a simple>> removable surface
> mount on my cabin bulkhead for the tablet.>>>> I used Navionics on the
> eastern seaboard navigating from Maine to North>> Carolina on an Island
> Packet 35, and also on three charters in the Virgin>> Islands.  It is an
> excellent app.>>>> I also like the Aqua Map app for some unique features.
> It integrates USCG>> Light List and Local Notices To Mariners into the
> chart data which can be>> important.  There are several other tablet nav
> apps that I haven?t used.>>>> Regardless, if you plan to extensively cruise
> your wonderful local waters>> or beyond, it is well worth studying coastal
> navigation for a better>> understanding of the underlying concepts?an nav
> app is not sufficient.>> Cruising guides and physical charts are
> indispensable.  NOAA has a free>> tool that lets you create your own custom
> charts.>>>> Since you are in Maryland, I highly recommend the Maryland
> School of>> Sailing and Seamanship in Rock Hall. Captain Tursi wrote the
> book for the>> ASA 105 Coastal Navigation course and all their courses are
> very rigorous.>> Check out their excellent library of YouTube videos as
> well.>>>> Michael McKay>> ASA instructor/USCG captain>> S/V Liber,
> 2006/2018>> Allatoona Lake, GA>>>>>>>> (630) 209-2054 (m)>>>> Sent from my
> iPhone>>>> > On Dec 9, 2023, at 7:53?PM, Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <>>
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:>> >>> > ?I have a general question for
> Rhodes owners.>> >>> > What sort of navigation equipment (chart plotters,
> depth instruments,>> wind>> > instruments, etc) do owners have installed on
> their boats?  Where do you>> > have them placed?>> >>> > Are there phone
> apps that are replacing installed electronics?>> >>> > What recommendations
> would you have for someone equipping a Rhodes that>> > currently has no
> navigation technology (except a VHS Radio - newly>> > installed).>> >>> >
> Thanks for your help.>> >>> > Tom Hyatt>> > S/V Eliza Jane, 1978>> > Middle
> River, MD.>>>
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Mon Jun 10 22:34:22 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 22:34:22 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288604C1C7CB062B7A61CC780C62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1sGnoi-0000000B3od-2JyV@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288604C1C7CB062B7A61CC780C62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <01DF7077-9EE6-451E-8E01-9234ADD04A42@gmail.com>

Thanks, Roger.  I?m familiar with the nozzles, as my gasoline-powered washer has them (red for the strongest, orange for medium, yellow for mildest ? plus a black ?turbo-nozzle? for really high pressure, which I?ve never had to use.  I had not thought about the lemon juice idea and magic eraser ? thanks.  I?m sure things like stripes and decals (like my boat registration) would be very vulnerable.  

I appreciate all the answers on this thread. 

Frank


> On Jun 10, 2024, at 7:53?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Frank,
> 
> I have a gasoline powered pressure washer.  You regulate the pressure by changing nozzles.  The lowest pressure nozzle does a good job of cleaning everything but rust stains.  For that I use lemon juice diluted 4:1 and a Mr Clean Magic Eraser pad and don?t scrub too hard.  It?s better to let the lemon juice work on the stain for a few hours, scrub, then spray and repeat as necessary.  Be careful spraying around stripes and decals.  The spray will chew them up faster than you can say, ?HOLY SHIT!?.  I just spray with water, no detergent.  I consider a good pressure washer an essential boat owner?s tool.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:48?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?I just use straight water.
>> 
>> ?Peter
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>>> On 2024-06-10, at 18:28:43 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you
>>> use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Mon Jun 10 22:54:11 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2024 22:54:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <E4158BFD-18C4-4D32-958D-B0F85F3A1D25@stottarchitecture.com>

Hi Roger 
I had both my hips replaced in 2007. 
Had a revision to the left one due to metalosis. I had a Birmingham hip because I was an athlete and wanted full range of motion with no chance of a dislocation. 
Anyway, they have been great since.All my best to you for a speedy recovery. Pain free is a whole new outlook. 
Enjoy it. 
Ric
Sv Dadventure. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2024, at 8:27?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Art,
> 
> I?m in the hospital getting a hip replacement.  I?m supposed to be discharged tomorrow afternoon.  I will try to call you then.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:47?AM, Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Roger,
>> Would you give a call at 404 295-7777 when convenient. I am going to sell Mary Jane soon and would appreciate your advise.
>> Appreciate your posts.
>> Art Czerwonky
>> 
>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>> 
>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 10:16 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA<roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:   Matt,
>> 
>> So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.  Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.  With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.  But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
>>> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
>>> top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
>>> strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
>>> 
>>> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
>>> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
>>> 
>>> Thanks for your help,
>>> 
>>> Matt
>>> 
>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Matt,
>>>> 
>>>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>>>> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>>>> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>>>> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
>>>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
>>>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
>>>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>>>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
>>>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
>>>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>>>> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>>>> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
>>>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
>>>> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
>>>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>>>> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>>>> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>>>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>>>> shackle
>>>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>>>> ??
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>>>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Matt
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>>>> anchor?
>>>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>>>> ball.  It
>>>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>>>> put
>>>>>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>>>> ball. A
>>>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>>>> the
>>>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>>>> metal
>>>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>>>> about
>>>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>>>> warning
>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>>>> anything
>>>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>>>> What
>>>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>>>> The
>>>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
>>>> snuber
>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>>>> gust.
>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>>>> so
>>>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>>>> winds
>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>>>> Any
>>>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>>>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>>>> used
>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
>>>> going
>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>>>> each
>>>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Jun 11 10:28:17 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 14:28:17 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <E4158BFD-18C4-4D32-958D-B0F85F3A1D25@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <E4158BFD-18C4-4D32-958D-B0F85F3A1D25@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42886FB080F023E7CBE8731380C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Ric,

So far, I?ve had both knees, my right hip, a pacemaker (A-Fib), and cataract surgery on both eyes.  I?m slowly going bionic!  So far, the results of all this parts replacement have been good.

I just got back from my second PT session.  Besides walking with a walker about 400 ft, I learned how to use stairs, a ramp, and getting into/out of of a car.  I?m a little sore; but, it?s much easier than the knees were!

I had an interesting experience with my pacemaker the first time I tried to scuba dive with it.  It turns out the ?controllers? for breathing rate and heart rate are both located in the same part of the brain in the medulla.  But, they apparently don?t talk to each other.  Both controllers receive the same signal from the body to increase/decrease oxygen supply.  So, one controller causes the heart rate to go up and the other controller causes the breathing rate to increase.  In many mass transfer devices, like the lungs, there are often two rate limiting factors.  In the case of the lungs, the rate of blood flow controls how much oxygen/carbon dioxide can be transferred from the blood across the avioli membrane into/out of  the air sacs.  But, the breathing rate controls how fast that gas can be transferred in and out of the lungs.  Normally, the two controllers ramp up and down together; but, one is not influenced by the other.  They just get the same input signal from the body and each does their thing.  But, when you get a pacemaker, the default max heart rate is set to 95 bpm.  So now, underwater the body is calling for more oxygen.  The breathing rate goes up, but the heart rate is limited by the pacemaker.  Slow blood flow in the lungs prevents enough gas exchange to satisfy the body?s need.  The body keeps calling for more oxygen and the breathing rate keeps going up to supply it.  But, the heart rate just keeps plodding along, limited to 95 bpm.  On land, this would be no big deal.  You would just get out of breath and stop.  But, underwater, you go thru a tank of air VERY quickly.  In my case, I used up my air and had to buddy breathe from my diving partner?s tank to safely get back to the surface.  This included a decompression stop to prevent the bends.  This was the first time I?ve ever had to buddy breathe except in training exercises.

To solve this issue, my cardiologist laid a plastic disk on my chest.  The antenna in the disk linked with the implanted pacemaker.  They remotely reprogrammed my pacemaker and reset the max heart rate to 190 bpm.  I haven?t had any issues scuba diving since then.  What a marvelous age we live in!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:54?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Roger
> I had both my hips replaced in 2007.
> Had a revision to the left one due to metalosis. I had a Birmingham hip because I was an athlete and wanted full range of motion with no chance of a dislocation.
> Anyway, they have been great since.All my best to you for a speedy recovery. Pain free is a whole new outlook.
> Enjoy it.
> Ric
> Sv Dadventure.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 8:27?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hi Art,
>> 
>> I?m in the hospital getting a hip replacement.  I?m supposed to be discharged tomorrow afternoon.  I will try to call you then.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:47?AM, Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Roger,
>>> Would you give a call at 404 295-7777 when convenient. I am going to sell Mary Jane soon and would appreciate your advise.
>>> Appreciate your posts.
>>> Art Czerwonky
>>> 
>>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 10:16 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA<roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:   Matt,
>>> 
>>> So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.  Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.  With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.  But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
>>>> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
>>>> top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
>>>> strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
>>>> 
>>>> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
>>>> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks for your help,
>>>> 
>>>> Matt
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Matt,
>>>>> 
>>>>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>>>>> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>>>>> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>>>>> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
>>>>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
>>>>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
>>>>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>>>>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
>>>>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
>>>>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978. Sanford MI
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>>>>> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>>>>> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
>>>>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
>>>>> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
>>>>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>>>>> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>>>>> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>>>>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>>>>> shackle
>>>>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>>>>> ??
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>>>>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Matt
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>>>>> anchor?
>>>>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>>>>> ball.  It
>>>>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>>>>> put
>>>>>>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>>>>> ball. A
>>>>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>>>>> about
>>>>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>>>>> warning
>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>>>>> anything
>>>>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>>>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>>>>> What
>>>>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>>>>> The
>>>>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
>>>>> snuber
>>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>>>>> gust.
>>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>>>>> so
>>>>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>>>>> winds
>>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>>>>> Any
>>>>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>>>>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>>>>> used
>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
>>>>> going
>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>>>>> each
>>>>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>> 

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Jun 11 11:31:08 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 11:31:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42886FB080F023E7CBE8731380C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <E4158BFD-18C4-4D32-958D-B0F85F3A1D25@stottarchitecture.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886FB080F023E7CBE8731380C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <88E8E4D0-6782-420C-B3A4-008263E0BEAD@stottarchitecture.com>

Kind of Off-subject for the list, but - - - 
We share more than one could imagine. I had A-fib as well and it was cured,  in 2008 with a Cardiac Ablation.
That process, a modern medical miracle  worked well until I got the Flue that year. Then it set off  an Atrial Flutter, which was really, really bad. 
Another ablation cured that problem -  no further A-fib or mis-beats. 
Got a new right knee last November, and thought I needed the left knee done as well, but the left side is feeling better enough that I put off that replacement for the time being. 
You are so right, it sounds like neither one of us would be here with medical intervention. 
But we both are able to keep doing the things we love. 
What amazing  times we  live in. 
Be well 
Ric 
SV Dadventure ?84
Hampton Bays, NY 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 11, 2024, at 10:28 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Ric,
> 
> So far, I?ve had both knees, my right hip, a pacemaker (A-Fib), and cataract surgery on both eyes.  I?m slowly going bionic!  So far, the results of all this parts replacement have been good.
> 
> I just got back from my second PT session.  Besides walking with a walker about 400 ft, I learned how to use stairs, a ramp, and getting into/out of of a car.  I?m a little sore; but, it?s much easier than the knees were!
> 
> I had an interesting experience with my pacemaker the first time I tried to scuba dive with it.  It turns out the ?controllers? for breathing rate and heart rate are both located in the same part of the brain in the medulla.  But, they apparently don?t talk to each other.  Both controllers receive the same signal from the body to increase/decrease oxygen supply.  So, one controller causes the heart rate to go up and the other controller causes the breathing rate to increase.  In many mass transfer devices, like the lungs, there are often two rate limiting factors.  In the case of the lungs, the rate of blood flow controls how much oxygen/carbon dioxide can be transferred from the blood across the avioli membrane into/out of  the air sacs.  But, the breathing rate controls how fast that gas can be transferred in and out of the lungs.  Normally, the two controllers ramp up and down together; but, one is not influenced by the other.  They just get the same input signal from the body and each does their thing.  But, when you get a pacemaker, the default max heart rate is set to 95 bpm.  So now, underwater the body is calling for more oxygen.  The breathing rate goes up, but the heart rate is limited by the pacemaker.  Slow blood flow in the lungs prevents enough gas exchange to satisfy the body?s need.  The body keeps calling for more oxygen and the breathing rate keeps going up to supply it.  But, the heart rate just keeps plodding along, limited to 95 bpm.  On land, this would be no big deal.  You would just get out of breath and stop.  But, underwater, you go thru a tank of air VERY quickly.  In my case, I used up my air and had to buddy breathe from my diving partner?s tank to safely get back to the surface.  This included a decompression stop to prevent the bends.  This was the first time I?ve ever had to buddy breathe except in training exercises.
> 
> To solve this issue, my cardiologist laid a plastic disk on my chest.  The antenna in the disk linked with the implanted pacemaker.  They remotely reprogrammed my pacemaker and reset the max heart rate to 190 bpm.  I haven?t had any issues scuba diving since then.  What a marvelous age we live in!
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:54?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hi Roger
>> I had both my hips replaced in 2007.
>> Had a revision to the left one due to metalosis. I had a Birmingham hip because I was an athlete and wanted full range of motion with no chance of a dislocation.
>> Anyway, they have been great since.All my best to you for a speedy recovery. Pain free is a whole new outlook.
>> Enjoy it.
>> Ric
>> Sv Dadventure.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 8:27?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hi Art,
>>> 
>>> I?m in the hospital getting a hip replacement.  I?m supposed to be discharged tomorrow afternoon.  I will try to call you then.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:47?AM, Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Roger,
>>>> Would you give a call at 404 295-7777 when convenient. I am going to sell Mary Jane soon and would appreciate your advise.
>>>> Appreciate your posts.
>>>> Art Czerwonky
>>>> 
>>>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 10:16 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA<roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:   Matt,
>>>> 
>>>> So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.  Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.  With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.  But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
>>>>> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
>>>>> top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
>>>>> strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
>>>>> 
>>>>> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
>>>>> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks for your help,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Matt
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Matt,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>>>>>> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>>>>>> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>>>>>> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
>>>>>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
>>>>>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
>>>>>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>>>>>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
>>>>>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
>>>>>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978. Sanford MI
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>>>>>> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>>>>>> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
>>>>>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
>>>>>> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
>>>>>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>>>>>> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>>>>>> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>>>>>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>>>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>>>>>> shackle
>>>>>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>>>>>> ??
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>>>>>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Matt
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>>>>>> anchor?
>>>>>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>>>>>> ball.  It
>>>>>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>>>>>> put
>>>>>>>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>>>>>> ball. A
>>>>>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>>>>>> about
>>>>>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>>>>>> warning
>>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>>>>>> anything
>>>>>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>>>>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>>>>>> What
>>>>>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>>>>>> The
>>>>>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
>>>>>> snuber
>>>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>>>>>> gust.
>>>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>>>>>> so
>>>>>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>>>>>> winds
>>>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>>>>>> Any
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>>>>>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>>>>>> used
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
>>>>>> going
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>>>>>> each
>>>>>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>> 


From davidmberg at mac.com  Tue Jun 11 14:13:54 2024
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 13:13:54 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <A9A38A9F-DF7F-4AFA-8C11-871EB86C1095@gmail.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <A9A38A9F-DF7F-4AFA-8C11-871EB86C1095@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007501dabc2b$1f9a9150$5ecfb3f0$@mac.com>

Frank,

I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.

David Berg
Minneapolis, MN
s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat

Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?

Frank



> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>> 
>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock 
>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses 
>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think 
>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems 
>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be 
>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>> Fairview, NC
>> Lake Keowee, SC
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 



From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Tue Jun 11 14:32:01 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 14:32:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <007501dabc2b$1f9a9150$5ecfb3f0$@mac.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <A9A38A9F-DF7F-4AFA-8C11-871EB86C1095@gmail.com>
 <007501dabc2b$1f9a9150$5ecfb3f0$@mac.com>
Message-ID: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>

Thanks, David.  

> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Frank,
> 
> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
> 
> David Berg
> Minneapolis, MN
> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
> 
> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>> 
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>> 
>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock 
>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses 
>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think 
>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems 
>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be 
>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>> Fairview, NC
>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Jun 11 16:21:08 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 16:21:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <A9A38A9F-DF7F-4AFA-8C11-871EB86C1095@gmail.com>
 <007501dabc2b$1f9a9150$5ecfb3f0$@mac.com>
 <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3FA3CDF1-2B84-4FD7-AEF7-BBF049B1152D@stottarchitecture.com>

I keep my boat on a mooring with no access to fresh water.  I found a battery operated small power washer that works great.
I fill a bucket with water from my wattage and bring it on deck. A 4? house goes in the bucket and the pressure washer has enough power to wash the deck down and reach toe top of the mast. 
I?m thrilled with it. 
Ric 
SV Dadventure 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32 PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks, David.  
> 
>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Frank,
>> 
>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
>> 
>> David Berg
>> Minneapolis, MN
>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
>> 
>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>>> 
>>> Peter Nyberg
>>> Coventry, CT
>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>> 
>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock 
>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses 
>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think 
>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems 
>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be 
>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>>> 
>>>> Frank
>>>> 
>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>>> Fairview, NC
>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 


From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Tue Jun 11 16:35:57 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 16:35:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <3FA3CDF1-2B84-4FD7-AEF7-BBF049B1152D@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <E1sGnRZ-0000000Aexx-13Fp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <A9A38A9F-DF7F-4AFA-8C11-871EB86C1095@gmail.com>
 <007501dabc2b$1f9a9150$5ecfb3f0$@mac.com>
 <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
 <3FA3CDF1-2B84-4FD7-AEF7-BBF049B1152D@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <6851B984-7764-4F67-A7C2-A366332ED48A@gmail.com>

Interesting ? do you mind sharing what model of power washer you have?  My boat is in a slip in a fresh-water lake, so access to fresh water is not a problem for me.

Frank


> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:21?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
> 
> I keep my boat on a mooring with no access to fresh water.  I found a battery operated small power washer that works great.
> I fill a bucket with water from my wattage and bring it on deck. A 4? house goes in the bucket and the pressure washer has enough power to wash the deck down and reach toe top of the mast. 
> I?m thrilled with it. 
> Ric 
> SV Dadventure 
> 
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32 PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks, David.  
>> 
>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Frank,
>>> 
>>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
>>> 
>>> David Berg
>>> Minneapolis, MN
>>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
>>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>>>> 
>>>> Peter Nyberg
>>>> Coventry, CT
>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>> 
>>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock 
>>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses 
>>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think 
>>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems 
>>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be 
>>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Frank
>>>>> 
>>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>>>> Fairview, NC
>>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 


From lgioia at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 11 16:36:10 2024
From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 16:36:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
References: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>

I got a relatively cheap Westinghouse electric pressure washer on Amazon early this year for my Rhodes near Tampa, wow does it work well.  I use the wider spray nozzle for lower pressure. Take heed of Peter?s comment and don?t spray close to hatches - I got some spray inside, I?ll be more careful next time. Worked so well I brought it up to Lake George for my other Rhodes. That one reaalllyyyy needed it. 
  
Larry
  
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> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks, David.  
> 
>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Frank,
>> 
>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
>> 
>> David Berg
>> Minneapolis, MN
>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
>> 
>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>>> 
>>> Peter Nyberg
>>> Coventry, CT
>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>> 
>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock
>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses
>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think
>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems
>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be
>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>>> 
>>>> Frank
>>>> 
>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>>> Fairview, NC
>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Jun 11 16:51:22 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 16:51:22 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>
References: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
 <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9F793746-65E9-40D3-B444-A279A5ED98D8@stottarchitecture.com>

I bought a cheap one from China which is on the boat so I don?t know the name of it, but here is a link to a comparison of the best. 
Dewalt and Ryobi are very good, so if you have those batteries, it might be the best choice.
I was suckered in on an Instagram add and bought it before I realized there are many better options - I think I paid well under $100 for it and it wrks pretty well.  
Mine is a rechargeable unit so I?ll have to charge it on the boat with my 12v DC 
Best 
Ric 
https://www.bestproductsreviews.com/battery-operated-pressure-washers?targetid=&matchtype=&device=c&campaignid=18760692132&creative=&adgroupid=&feeditemid=&loc_physical_ms=9004570&loc_interest_ms=&network=x&devicemodel=&placement=&keyword=$&target=&aceid=&adposition=&trackid=us_all_top_1_1&mId=407-132-4411&trackOld=true&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw65-zBhBkEiwAjrqRMNCKHTjAPnpZg_RqVTG3FX-I3lRT-RN1sSV915xALvLUrXJ79_l7RhoC8rIQAvD_BwE?
Our 10 Best Battery Operated Pressure Washers in the US - June 2024
bestproductsreviews.com

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:36 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I got a relatively cheap Westinghouse electric pressure washer on Amazon early this year for my Rhodes near Tampa, wow does it work well.  I use the wider spray nozzle for lower pressure. Take heed of Peter?s comment and don?t spray close to hatches - I got some spray inside, I?ll be more careful next time. Worked so well I brought it up to Lake George for my other Rhodes. That one reaalllyyyy needed it. 
> 
> Larry
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> -------------- next part --------------
> 
>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Thanks, David.  
>> 
>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Frank,
>>> 
>>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
>>> 
>>> David Berg
>>> Minneapolis, MN
>>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
>>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>>>> 
>>>> Peter Nyberg
>>>> Coventry, CT
>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>> 
>>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock
>>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses
>>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think
>>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems
>>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be
>>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Frank
>>>>> 
>>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>>>> Fairview, NC
>>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 

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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue Jun 11 17:19:16 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 17:19:16 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
Message-ID: <E1sH8tg-00000009nTP-1D3R@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I actually don't totally avoid spraying close to hatches as that would leave too much area unsprayed.  I try to be careful about the direction I'm spraying, and then I expect to have to sponge up some water after the spraying is done.  

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-11, at 16:36:10 EDT, Larry Gioia wrote:
>
> ... Take heed of Peter?s comment and don?t spray close to hatches ...
> 



From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Tue Jun 11 18:15:51 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2024 18:15:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <9F793746-65E9-40D3-B444-A279A5ED98D8@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
 <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>
 <9F793746-65E9-40D3-B444-A279A5ED98D8@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <6BD79E62-6539-407F-A078-01C07E0EF2A5@gmail.com>

Thanks for this. I have Ego batteries for other electric power tools, but I?ll check these out.  I don?t know if Ego makes a battery-powered power washer (easy enough for me to research).

Frank


> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
> 
> I bought a cheap one from China which is on the boat so I don?t know the name of it, but here is a link to a comparison of the best. 
> Dewalt and Ryobi are very good, so if you have those batteries, it might be the best choice.
> I was suckered in on an Instagram add and bought it before I realized there are many better options - I think I paid well under $100 for it and it wrks pretty well.  
> Mine is a rechargeable unit so I?ll have to charge it on the boat with my 12v DC 
> Best 
> Ric 
> https://www.bestproductsreviews.com/battery-operated-pressure-washers?targetid=&matchtype=&device=c&campaignid=18760692132&creative=&adgroupid=&feeditemid=&loc_physical_ms=9004570&loc_interest_ms=&network=x&devicemodel=&placement=&keyword=$&target=&aceid=&adposition=&trackid=us_all_top_1_1&mId=407-132-4411&trackOld=true&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw65-zBhBkEiwAjrqRMNCKHTjAPnpZg_RqVTG3FX-I3lRT-RN1sSV915xALvLUrXJ79_l7RhoC8rIQAvD_BwE?
> Our 10 Best Battery Operated Pressure Washers in the US - June 2024
> bestproductsreviews.com
> 
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:36 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I got a relatively cheap Westinghouse electric pressure washer on Amazon early this year for my Rhodes near Tampa, wow does it work well.  I use the wider spray nozzle for lower pressure. Take heed of Peter?s comment and don?t spray close to hatches - I got some spray inside, I?ll be more careful next time. Worked so well I brought it up to Lake George for my other Rhodes. That one reaalllyyyy needed it. 
>> 
>> Larry
>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> -------------- next part --------------
>> 
>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Thanks, David.  
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Frank,
>>>> 
>>>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
>>>> 
>>>> David Berg
>>>> Minneapolis, MN
>>>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Frank Goldsmith
>>>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>>>> 
>>>> Frank
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Peter Nyberg
>>>>> Coventry, CT
>>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock
>>>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses
>>>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think
>>>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems
>>>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to be
>>>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Frank
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>>>>> Fairview, NC
>>>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
> 
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From bgarrant at gmail.com  Wed Jun 12 05:13:28 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2024 05:13:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pipe Insulation in the Mast
In-Reply-To: <E1s3Ma2-00GBZS-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1s3Ma2-00GBZS-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBCRzW8iDtYsoB6c+k5Z7=yA8Gj+4UzfO65GHVcKzq6kwg@mail.gmail.com>

Peter
I need to do the same thing.
Thanks very much for the detailed explanation.
Very helpful

Bob Garrant
sv Sail la Vie
Kent. Island. Md


On Sat, May 4, 2024 at 5:06?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> So, I ran my new 3-conductor wire up the mast, encased in foam pipe
> insulation, and this is my report on that process.
>
> First, I want to say that when I pulled my old wires out of the mast I
> found that the zip-ties I used when I installed them to try to eliminate
> slapping were obviously too small and flimsy to do the job.  I took one
> look at them, shook my head, and said to myself ?what was I thinking??.
> Based on this finding, and reports from other boat owners, I?m perfectly
> willing to believe that the zip-tie solution to the wire slapping problem
> can work if properly implemented.  But, by the time of this discovery I was
> already committed to the the pipe insulation approach.
>
> To start at the beginning, when I arrived at the pipe insulation section
> of my local Home Depot, I  found that it comes in two sizes: 1/2? and
> 3/4?.  I chose 1/2?, which turned out to be correct.  It just fit into the
> channel in the IMF mast.  Four 3? sections come in a package, so 2 packages
> is about the perfect amount for the job.  I ended up using 12? of
> insulation above the spreaders, and about 11? 4? below.
>
> After getting the mast set up on a couple of saw-horses I did some
> disassembling. I removed the top plate, and the assembly that houses the
> sheaves for the halyards.  I also removed the spreader bases, and the
> through-bolt that attaches them to the mast.  And I removed any other
> hardware that had screws or bolts that projected into the mast?s wire
> channel.
>
> Next, I laid out the wire along side the mast, and made marks on the wire
> to help in positioning the insulation. The main focus here was that I
> wanted to leave a gap in the insulation at the spreaders so that it
> wouldn?t be in the way when it came time to reinsert the through-bolt.
>
> The installation approach was to insert at the bottom, and pull toward the
> top.  Sections of insulation would be zip-tied around the wire before
> insertion.  After a test run with one piece of insulation, it became clear
> that the biggest challenge was going to be keeping the insulation in a
> fixed position on the wire.
>
> The technique that ended up meeting the challenge had multiple steps:
>
>     1) select a spot on the wire about 6? below where the top end of the
> insulation section will be
>     2) take 6 - 8 wraps of electrical tape around the wire at this point,
> creating a ?bump?
>     3) place a small zip-tie around the wire _above_ the electrical tape;
> pull tight, clip off excess
>         (this creates another ?bump?)
>     4) position insulation section around wire
>     5) place a zip-tie around the insulation so that it is just  _above_
> the inner zip-tie and tape
>     6) place a second outer zip-tie 4-6? from the bottom of the section of
> insulation
>     7) pull both outer zip-ties as tight as you can (use pliers for a
> better grip); trim off excess
>     8) from the top of the mast, pull 3? of wire and insulation into the
> mast
>     9) repeat
>
> Note that ??top? and ?above? means closer to the top of the mast.
>
> Once I had the technique down, things went pretty quickly.  Now I just
> have to put the mast back together.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Wed Jun 12 11:00:41 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2024 11:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] GB tiller-motor link geometry problem
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288E7AC6D1ECCF4FF99E4E080FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJGJx+Chc6FN_djYT5TTmKf_CnJxDdGqVRww0p6rhWakr8235Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288E7AC6D1ECCF4FF99E4E080FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+CP7CxfdrMbxriMQ7sVtiiM_u0kUdH8ziV6gyRQVPBfnA@mail.gmail.com>

Update.  I did try relocating the rudder side link attach pivot point
closer to rudder pivot by drilling a new hole.  It improved the ratio a bit
but didn't fully resolve the problem.  New configuration began to bump the
linkage into swim ladder and still the extreme rotation of the motor head
leaves the geometry close to binding from the linkage to motor angle being
almost head-on at the end of travel.  Also, I see the wisdom of the left
curve of the mount on the tiller side, that allows the linkage arm to
swivel around and clamp against the tiller when not in use. That doesn't
work if the pivot is centered and closer to the stern.  This one size fits
all design apparently just not too good for this tohatsu motor as is. If I
get my honda 9.9 working (separate thread) I will use that most likely
anyway and it has more distance between pivot and rear of cowling.   If
not, I will try extending the linkage point on the motor side further out
behind the cowling for the tohatsu..


On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 5:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
>
> Using your straight overhead photo, I estimate the ratio of the [Rudder
> Pivot R] / [Motor Pivot R] ~ 3.2 .  This is an example of a type of
> mechanical amplifier.  ie, The motor would turn about 3.2 X as many degrees
> as the rudder turns.  There is also about that much torque amplification.
> However, mechanical amplifiers like this have a very limited range of
> linear operation.  It has to do with the linkage geometry and the nonlinear
> behavior of trig functions.  Outside of this range, the linkage behavior
> becomes very nonlinear.  If you moved the rudder pivot forward so that the
> above ratio is < ~ 2, you will find the linear range is increased and there
> will still be sufficient torque multiplication such that the tiller will
> not be too hard to move.  I?m afraid if you shorten the [Rudder Pivot R]
> too much and approach a ratio ~ 1.0; that, the tiller will take a lot of
> force to operate and you will lose ?rudder feel? , especially under sail.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:29?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?On this new to me 89 recycled 2012 I have issues with the tiller link.
> On
> > my first boat I made a link that worked pretty well.  I recall at higher
> > speed it wanted to just go straight (which was fine).
> >
> > This one is really squirrelly.  If you start to turn it seems unstable
> and
> > just wants to go full into a hard turn.  From these pics. at center,
> turned
> > max port, and max starboard - you can see that the motor is turning much
> > faster than the rudder and it actually stops the rudder from turning as
> > much as I would like to cruise into dock.  It also kind of binds up as
> the
> > max angle resists turning back from the stops.
> >
> > On my home built I tried to get the distance from the rudder rotation
> point
> > to the connecting bar, and the distance from the motor rotation point to
> > the attach point on it to be about the same radius.  In this GB setup,
> the
> > rudder pin to connection pivot point  is about 16 inches whereas on the
> > motor it is only about 5 inches.  I think this is the problem and I
> > probably need to build an extension to move the attach point on the motor
> > top out further behind it.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > I sort of need this linkage for maneuvering in shallow water where my
> > rudder might get kicked up.  If I leave the motor straight I could have
> > prop. impact.
> >
> > Patrick
> > -------------- next part --------------
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>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Wed Jun 12 11:03:42 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2024 11:03:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+D_mzuJyYcQH89kM520PoMPUQYvfYBV0jaE-y_XuXGraw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Roger,
Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean up
and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of weeks.
Patrick


On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
> with minimal disassembly:
>
> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move the
> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
>
> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb cleaner
> dripping out of the needle valve.
>
> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off any
> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the needle
> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the fuel
> line inlet.
>
> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
>
> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
>
> A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.  But, the engine should still
> run.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger, et. al.,
> >
> > Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
> dripping
> > from carb intake and smoking some.
> > I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
> under
> > the hood is pristine clean.
> >
> > Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
> > shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
> > dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
> out
> > also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil and
> my
> > wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
> > culprit.
> >
> > I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in some
> > oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
> old
> > tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are probably
> > not an issue.
> >
> > So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
> > with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be fixed
> > already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I have
> > the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
> > might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
> it
> > is still stuck.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Patrick,
> >>
> >> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
> >> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
> will
> >> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> PBR
> >> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>
> >> Thanks Roger,
> >> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
> might
> >> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
> >> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
> >> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
> >> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
> with
> >> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years
> ago
> >> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
> guessing I
> >> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
> in
> >> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
> >> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
> >>
> >> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
> >> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
> >>
> >> Patrick
> >>
> >>
> >> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>
> >>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
> the
> >>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
> >>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
> >>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> >>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
> >> would
> >>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> >>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> >>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> >>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
> >> dry.
> >>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
> rings.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> ?Hi Patrick,
> >>>>
> >>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
> >>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> >>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> >>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> >>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> >>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
> >> engine
> >>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
> compression.
> >>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
> If
> >>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
> >>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> >>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
> >>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
> >>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> >>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
> crank
> >> it
> >>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
> the
> >>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
> and
> >>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
> don't
> >>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
> >>> rings.
> >>>>
> >>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> >>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
> >>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
> >>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed
> >> to
> >>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
> >>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
> >> However, I
> >>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
> >> clogged.
> >>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
> verify
> >>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> >>>>
> >>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> >>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>
> >>>> Patrick,
> >>>>
> >>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
> would
> >>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
> engine
> >>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> >>>>
> >>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> >>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of
> >> the
> >>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
> air
> >>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
> >> become
> >>> saturated with oil.
> >>>>
> >>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
> >>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
> stuck)
> >>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> >>> combustion path.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >>> PBR
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> >>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>
> >>>> Hello all.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
> >> years.
> >>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> >>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
> always
> >>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> >>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
> bit
> >>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> >>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
> the
> >>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> >>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
> >>> but not constant at all speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
> >> (clean
> >>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog*
> >> or
> >>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
> valve?* (
> >>> but runs pretty good)
> >>>>
> >>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate
> >> to
> >>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
> >> than
> >>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> >>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
> >> cowling
> >>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> >>>>
> >>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> >>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> >>>>
> >>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> >>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
> sure
> >> of
> >>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> >>>>
> >>>> Patrick
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 12 11:12:56 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2024 15:12:56 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+D_mzuJyYcQH89kM520PoMPUQYvfYBV0jaE-y_XuXGraw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+D_mzuJyYcQH89kM520PoMPUQYvfYBV0jaE-y_XuXGraw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288F275C091063E967BD2A680C02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Patrick,

I?m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04?AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks Roger,
> Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
> like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean up
> and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of weeks.
> Patrick
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
>> with minimal disassembly:
>> 
>> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move the
>> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
>> 
>> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb cleaner
>> dripping out of the needle valve.
>> 
>> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
>> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off any
>> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the needle
>> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the fuel
>> line inlet.
>> 
>> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
>> 
>> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
>> 
>> A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.  But, the engine should still
>> run.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Roger, et. al.,
>>> 
>>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
>> dripping
>>> from carb intake and smoking some.
>>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
>> under
>>> the hood is pristine clean.
>>> 
>>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
>>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
>>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
>> out
>>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil and
>> my
>>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
>>> culprit.
>>> 
>>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in some
>>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
>> old
>>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are probably
>>> not an issue.
>>> 
>>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
>>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be fixed
>>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I have
>>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
>>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
>> it
>>> is still stuck.
>>> 
>>> Patrick
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>> 
>>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
>>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
>> will
>>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> PBR
>>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks Roger,
>>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
>> might
>>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
>>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
>>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
>>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
>> with
>>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years
>> ago
>>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
>> guessing I
>>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
>> in
>>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
>>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
>>>> 
>>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
>>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
>>>> 
>>>> Patrick
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
>> the
>>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
>>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
>>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
>>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
>>>> would
>>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
>>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
>>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
>>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
>>>> dry.
>>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
>> rings.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ?Hi Patrick,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
>>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
>>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
>>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
>>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
>>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
>>>> engine
>>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
>> compression.
>>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
>> If
>>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
>>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
>>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
>>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
>>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
>>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
>> crank
>>>> it
>>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
>> the
>>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
>> and
>>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
>> don't
>>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
>>>>> rings.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
>>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
>>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
>>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed
>>>> to
>>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
>>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
>>>> However, I
>>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
>>>> clogged.
>>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
>> verify
>>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
>>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Patrick,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
>> would
>>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
>> engine
>>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
>>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of
>>>> the
>>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
>> air
>>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
>>>> become
>>>>> saturated with oil.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
>>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
>> stuck)
>>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
>>>>> combustion path.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>>>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>>>> PBR
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
>>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hello all.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
>>>> years.
>>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
>>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
>> always
>>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
>>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
>> bit
>>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
>>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
>> the
>>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
>>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
>>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
>>>> (clean
>>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog*
>>>> or
>>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
>> valve?* (
>>>>> but runs pretty good)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate
>>>> to
>>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
>>>> than
>>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
>>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
>>>> cowling
>>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
>>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
>>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
>> sure
>>>> of
>>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Patrick
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Jun 13 08:23:18 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2024 12:23:18 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <88E8E4D0-6782-420C-B3A4-008263E0BEAD@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <E4158BFD-18C4-4D32-958D-B0F85F3A1D25@stottarchitecture.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886FB080F023E7CBE8731380C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <88E8E4D0-6782-420C-B3A4-008263E0BEAD@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288B303F4E3F22530F2C05D80C12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Ric,

Yes, I guess it's a little off topic; but, no one seems to mind.

In the two years leading up to my pacemaker implant, I had two cardiac ablations as well.  Now, there's a medical procedure that sounds something from science fiction!  Each one "cured" my A-Fib for awhile.  But, each one also left me with electrical burns and scarring inside my heart.  It took me several months of therapy to get any aerobic stamina back both times.  Except for the scuba diving incident, my pacemaker has been good to live with for 2+ years.  My A-Fib loading with the pacemaker is < 2%, which is considered excellent.

Apparently, my physical therapist at the Beaverton Therapy Center gave me a good rating after my two knee replacements.  They are going to trust me to do my PT on my own at home.  I have an appointment with my orthopedic surgeon in two weeks to evaluate my progress and take X-Rays to verify the implant is still in the proper position.  If I'm not making sufficient progress, they will assign me to formal PT and my therapist will "make me".  I suffered for two groups of sessions, three 1 hour sessions/week for six weeks each under her "kind, gentle care" with my knees and I don't want her to "make me".  So far, I've been doing my PT in bed 1st thing in the morning.

So, I'm back at home now.  The hip is very sore when I'm doing my PT or if I walk with my walker too much.  But, the pain goes away quickly as soon as I lay down and get the load off the hip.  Nothing to do now but heal and get stronger.

What's a good time to call you?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2024 11:31 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice

Kind of Off-subject for the list, but - - -
We share more than one could imagine. I had A-fib as well and it was cured,  in 2008 with a Cardiac Ablation.
That process, a modern medical miracle  worked well until I got the Flue that year. Then it set off  an Atrial Flutter, which was really, really bad.
Another ablation cured that problem -  no further A-fib or mis-beats.
Got a new right knee last November, and thought I needed the left knee done as well, but the left side is feeling better enough that I put off that replacement for the time being.
You are so right, it sounds like neither one of us would be here with medical intervention.
But we both are able to keep doing the things we love.
What amazing  times we  live in.
Be well
Ric
SV Dadventure ?84
Hampton Bays, NY

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 11, 2024, at 10:28 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Ric,
>
> So far, I?ve had both knees, my right hip, a pacemaker (A-Fib), and cataract surgery on both eyes.  I?m slowly going bionic!  So far, the results of all this parts replacement have been good.
>
> I just got back from my second PT session.  Besides walking with a walker about 400 ft, I learned how to use stairs, a ramp, and getting into/out of of a car.  I?m a little sore; but, it?s much easier than the knees were!
>
> I had an interesting experience with my pacemaker the first time I tried to scuba dive with it.  It turns out the ?controllers? for breathing rate and heart rate are both located in the same part of the brain in the medulla.  But, they apparently don?t talk to each other.  Both controllers receive the same signal from the body to increase/decrease oxygen supply.  So, one controller causes the heart rate to go up and the other controller causes the breathing rate to increase.  In many mass transfer devices, like the lungs, there are often two rate limiting factors.  In the case of the lungs, the rate of blood flow controls how much oxygen/carbon dioxide can be transferred from the blood across the avioli membrane into/out of  the air sacs.  But, the breathing rate controls how fast that gas can be transferred in and out of the lungs.  Normally, the two controllers ramp up and down together; but, one is not influenced by the other.  They just get the same input signal from the body and each does their thing.  But, when you get a pacemaker, the default max heart rate is set to 95 bpm.  So now, underwater the body is calling for more oxygen.  The breathing rate goes up, but the heart rate is limited by the pacemaker.  Slow blood flow in the lungs prevents enough gas exchange to satisfy the body?s need.  The body keeps calling for more oxygen and the breathing rate keeps going up to supply it.  But, the heart rate just keeps plodding along, limited to 95 bpm.  On land, this would be no big deal.  You would just get out of breath and stop.  But, underwater, you go thru a tank of air VERY quickly.  In my case, I used up my air and had to buddy breathe from my diving partner?s tank to safely get back to the surface.  This included a decompression stop to prevent the bends.  This was the first time I?ve ever had to buddy breathe except in training exercises.
>
> To solve this issue, my cardiologist laid a plastic disk on my chest.  The antenna in the disk linked with the implanted pacemaker.  They remotely reprogrammed my pacemaker and reset the max heart rate to 190 bpm.  I haven?t had any issues scuba diving since then.  What a marvelous age we live in!
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:54?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?Hi Roger
>> I had both my hips replaced in 2007.
>> Had a revision to the left one due to metalosis. I had a Birmingham hip because I was an athlete and wanted full range of motion with no chance of a dislocation.
>> Anyway, they have been great since.All my best to you for a speedy recovery. Pain free is a whole new outlook.
>> Enjoy it.
>> Ric
>> Sv Dadventure.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 8:27?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Hi Art,
>>>
>>> I?m in the hospital getting a hip replacement.  I?m supposed to be discharged tomorrow afternoon.  I will try to call you then.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 10:47?AM, Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ?Roger,
>>>> Would you give a call at 404 295-7777 when convenient. I am going to sell Mary Jane soon and would appreciate your advise.
>>>> Appreciate your posts.
>>>> Art Czerwonky
>>>>
>>>> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 10:16 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA<roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:   Matt,
>>>>
>>>> So attach the mooring line to the lower ring with an eye splice, thimble, and shackle.  Route the mooring line around the ball, thru the top ring, and to the boat.  With no knot or other attachment at the top ring, the load will be transferred to the lower ring.  But, the mooring line will still be easily grabbed with your boat hook.
>>>>
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 9:43?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> ?That is the one thing the  city specified is that they want the pennant
>>>>> attached to the bottom of the mooring though several of the boats use the
>>>>> top ring.  If I can get away with using the top, it is much simpler.  Is it
>>>>> strong enough?  Would two lines, one though both chocks be better?
>>>>>
>>>>> If I were to use a ?safety line? (second line) where would I attach it.
>>>>> Same place as the primary so it doesn?t twist when the boat swings?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for your help,
>>>>>
>>>>> Matt
>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 8:19?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Matt,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On mooring balls I?ve used, there is a steel rod running thru the center
>>>>>> of the ball from top to bottom.  The chain to the anchor attaches to a ring
>>>>>> at the bottom.  The mooring line to the boat attaches to a ring on the top
>>>>>> of the ball.  The steel rod connects everything together.  With the mooring
>>>>>> line attached to the top of the ball, it doesn?t need a float.  It is just
>>>>>> hanging off the top of the ball waiting to be snagged with a boat hook.  If
>>>>>> the mooring line is attached to the bottom of the mooring ball, you either
>>>>>> need to use floating line like polypropylene or a float.  Otherwise, the
>>>>>> line will be underwater and difficult to snag.  Polypropylene line is not
>>>>>> as strong as nylon and less UV resistant.  How was your mooring setup?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978. Sanford MI
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 8:26?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ?Hi Matt,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I would use 3/8? nylon double braid with an eye splice and a thimble and
>>>>>> shackle at the mooring ball.  Use of a thimble and shackle will greatly
>>>>>> reduce chafe.  But, keep an eye on it anyway.  A properly done eye splice
>>>>>> is nearly as strong as the line itself, much stronger than any knot.  Don?t
>>>>>> forget to safety wire your shackles.  I like to run the mooring line thru
>>>>>> the bow eye (the one you broke) and then up to the bow line chock and
>>>>>> cleat.  Using the bow eye lowers the point of attachment on the boat, thus
>>>>>> reducing the loads.  But, there are others on the Rhodes list that prefer
>>>>>> to just run the line up to the line chock and cleat.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>> S/C S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Jun 9, 2024, at 7:57?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Sorry for the confusion. How should I attach the nylon mooring line from
>>>>>>>> the boat? Currently my mooring line is a chain and is attached to a
>>>>>> shackle
>>>>>>>> directly underneath the mooring ball. Do I tie a knot to that shackle or
>>>>>>>> ??
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The owners of the mooring is the City of White Bear Lake.    They have
>>>>>>>> loose guidelines but do not specify mooring pennant material.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Matt
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2024 at 6:34?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi Matt,
>>>>>>>>> So the line from the bottom of the mooring ball is leading to the
>>>>>> anchor?
>>>>>>>>> I like to use all chain with a shackle and swivel at the mooring
>>>>>> ball.  It
>>>>>>>>> it somewhat controversial whether to use a swivel or not and where to
>>>>>> put
>>>>>>>>> it.  I like to put it at the mooring ball because I can inspect it and
>>>>>>>>> replace it relatively easily.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I?m surprised the owners of your mooring field don?t have their own
>>>>>>>>> rigging guidelines.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 8, 2024, at 11:21?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> ?Thanks guys,
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> What?s the best way to attach a line to the bottom of the mooring
>>>>>> ball. A
>>>>>>>>>> metal shackle and bowline? Anchor hitch?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> The fiberglass appears to be totally intact.  I never found the U ring
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>> one of the bolts was still in there broken cleanly some rust present
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> backing plate on my 1990 boat appears to be wood and there was no
>>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>>> plate present either on the outside or inside. We had a sudden gust
>>>>>> about
>>>>>>>>>> 40mph maybe a bit more on a windy but sunny day. Thanks for the
>>>>>> warning
>>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>>>> the glass. I?ll look again more closely tomorrow but I didn?t see
>>>>>>>>> anything
>>>>>>>>>> as I was installing the new one.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 7:56?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I would go with a double line (3/8 or larger)  that goes through the
>>>>>>>>> chocks
>>>>>>>>>>> to the bow cleat. I would not use the bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 5:05?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you Stewart,
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I know these are general boating questions so thanks for the help.
>>>>>> What
>>>>>>>>>>>> size and type of line would you recommend?
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 3:41?PM Graham Stewart <
>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you connecting the bow ring to the mooring with chain alone? If
>>>>>>>>> so,
>>>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>>>>> run the risk of wearing right through the metal hardware or chain.
>>>>>> The
>>>>>>>>>>>>> connection to the boat should  always use lines. You can add a
>>>>>> snuber
>>>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>>>>> shock reduction.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>>>>>>>>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2024 at 1:04 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sorry everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I spent a few hours putting in a new, heavier bow ring and then we
>>>>>>>>>>> had
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> folks out for a stunning sunset sail.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Yes the ring that attaches the boat to the trailer. That ring was
>>>>>>>>>>>>> attached
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to my mooring and broke from fatigue during a 40 mph sustained
>>>>>> gust.
>>>>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a chain on a mooring on a fairly  large MN lake.  It?s mostly
>>>>>>>>>>> sheltered
>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> when those SE breezes come up there is about 1.5 mi of open water
>>>>>> so
>>>>>>>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> can be a fair amount of wave action on top of sustained 20mph
>>>>>> winds
>>>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> times.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Should I be concerned that the boat fiberglass could be damaged?
>>>>>> Any
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thoughts on some kind of spring or a better set up?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks so much,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> HornblowerII
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2024 at 4:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>>>>>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Larry,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you referring to the ring on the bow which is used to winch
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the trailer?  Does the bow have a big hole where the ring
>>>>>> used
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> be?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of conditions did it take to do that?  What are you
>>>>>> going
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to do to repair ?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Does your boat have bow line chocks?  If yes, then just route the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line from the bow cleat thru the line chock and down to the
>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You could rig a bridle thru each line chock.  But, the boat won?t
>>>>>>>>>>>> ride
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> far off center with just one.  I wouldn?t bother with rigging the
>>>>>>>>>>> 2nd
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line.  I presume this will be temporary?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Jun 7, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ? I've seen setups where a yoke is created by a line tied at
>>>>>> each
>>>>>>>>>>>> end
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the 2 foredeck cleats and leading around the bow, connected to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> separate
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> line that goes to the mooring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> And I am curious about that sheared bow ring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Larry
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, June 7, 2024 at 03:29:27 PM EDT, Matt Wilson <
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just had a bow ring shear off during a storm.  Any advice on
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mooring
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buoy without one?just using the foredeck cleat.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Much appreciated,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hornblower II
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Jun 13 10:55:18 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2024 10:55:18 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mooring advice
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288B303F4E3F22530F2C05D80C12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428874FFF4D9468B20B90FBD80C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <E4158BFD-18C4-4D32-958D-B0F85F3A1D25@stottarchitecture.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886FB080F023E7CBE8731380C72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <88E8E4D0-6782-420C-B3A4-008263E0BEAD@stottarchitecture.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B303F4E3F22530F2C05D80C12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2F5E9F9E-D3A8-41F1-A897-E23C6D01192A@stottarchitecture.com>

Roger (and that goes for the rest of you Rhodies) 
You can call me any time in an emergency - but I'm still working full time and extra busy these days. 
Any time this weekend is ok except from 11:00 am to 2:00 pm Saturday. 
I?m likely to be on or near the Boat the rest of the time. 
Always use my cell#  
Heal fast!
R 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 13, 2024, at 8:23 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> procedure


From edmc18 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 11:35:27 2024
From: edmc18 at gmail.com (Ed McNamara)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 11:35:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <6BD79E62-6539-407F-A078-01C07E0EF2A5@gmail.com>
References: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
 <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>
 <9F793746-65E9-40D3-B444-A279A5ED98D8@stottarchitecture.com>
 <6BD79E62-6539-407F-A078-01C07E0EF2A5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-_suSqZocyX5Z9B4mU2F0iHWXhpuOgYVaXmcc_k_021e-dTw@mail.gmail.com>

I learned a new word recently. When I had my boat hull blisters repaired
and new bottom paint applied I was asked if I wanted to use Ablative paint.
When it was explained that the paint sheds layers in order to stay clean I
said "Hell no"! You see, that explained why twice a year, when I brought my
boat to the driveway for maintenance and cleaning, which included pressure
washing the hull, including the bottom paint, I had streams of blue paint
washing down the driveway. It probably also went a long way in explaining
why the bottom blistered! I now have a good strong bottom paint that will
not shed. As a lake sailor there is probably much less need for Ablative
paint anyway. My advice then is if you do have Ablative Bottom paint you
might want to avoid pressure washing that portion of your hull.

Eddie Mac
s/v Scholar (1988/2001)

On Tue, Jun 11, 2024 at 6:16?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks for this. I have Ego batteries for other electric power tools, but
> I?ll check these out.  I don?t know if Ego makes a battery-powered power
> washer (easy enough for me to research).
>
> Frank
>
>
> > On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > I bought a cheap one from China which is on the boat so I don?t know the
> name of it, but here is a link to a comparison of the best.
> > Dewalt and Ryobi are very good, so if you have those batteries, it might
> be the best choice.
> > I was suckered in on an Instagram add and bought it before I realized
> there are many better options - I think I paid well under $100 for it and
> it wrks pretty well.
> > Mine is a rechargeable unit so I?ll have to charge it on the boat with
> my 12v DC
> > Best
> > Ric
> >
> https://www.bestproductsreviews.com/battery-operated-pressure-washers?targetid=&matchtype=&device=c&campaignid=18760692132&creative=&adgroupid=&feeditemid=&loc_physical_ms=9004570&loc_interest_ms=&network=x&devicemodel=&placement=&keyword=$&target=&aceid=&adposition=&trackid=us_all_top_1_1&mId=407-132-4411&trackOld=true&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw65-zBhBkEiwAjrqRMNCKHTjAPnpZg_RqVTG3FX-I3lRT-RN1sSV915xALvLUrXJ79_l7RhoC8rIQAvD_BwE
> ?
> > Our 10 Best Battery Operated Pressure Washers in the US - June 2024
> > bestproductsreviews.com
> >
> > Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> > ric at stottarchitecture.com
> > O -631-283-1777
> > C- 516-965-3164
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:36 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> I got a relatively cheap Westinghouse electric pressure washer on
> Amazon early this year for my Rhodes near Tampa, wow does it work well.  I
> use the wider spray nozzle for lower pressure. Take heed of Peter?s comment
> and don?t spray close to hatches - I got some spray inside, I?ll be more
> careful next time. Worked so well I brought it up to Lake George for my
> other Rhodes. That one reaalllyyyy needed it.
> >>
> >> Larry
> >>
> >> -------------- next part --------------
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> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >>
> >>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Thanks, David.
> >>>
> >>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Frank,
> >>>>
> >>>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good
> for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some
> water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you
> used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
> >>>>
> >>>> David Berg
> >>>> Minneapolis, MN
> >>>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
> Of Frank Goldsmith
> >>>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the
> deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
> >>>>
> >>>> Frank
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If
> you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Peter Nyberg
> >>>>> Coventry, CT
> >>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock
> >>>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses
> >>>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think
> >>>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems
> >>>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to
> be
> >>>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Frank
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Frank Goldsmith
> >>>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> >>>>>> Fairview, NC
> >>>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
>

From mark at whipplefamily.com  Sat Jun 15 12:27:36 2024
From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 12:27:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <CAC-_suSqZocyX5Z9B4mU2F0iHWXhpuOgYVaXmcc_k_021e-dTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
 <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>
 <9F793746-65E9-40D3-B444-A279A5ED98D8@stottarchitecture.com>
 <6BD79E62-6539-407F-A078-01C07E0EF2A5@gmail.com>
 <CAC-_suSqZocyX5Z9B4mU2F0iHWXhpuOgYVaXmcc_k_021e-dTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+WP5ASz9XjNwz2w88Xj=T2=pqPx1htYW6ZUbHqdDS2qJqK4Xw@mail.gmail.com>

I have a mooring in Boston Harbor and I've used ablative paint for many
years. Depending on the type and amount of growth on the bottom when I haul
out, I might use a long brush, pressure from a garden hose, or a pressure
washer at distance. If there's lots of hard growth (barnacles etc) then
scraping might be the best option. The people who tend to use non-ablative
bottom paint at my boat club are power boaters who typically travel at
faster speeds than sailboats and racers who want the least resistance on
their hull and will sometimes clean their hull before a race.

When cleaning the deck, cockpit, cabin top etc. I try to keep the pressure
low because gel coat tends to become porous over time and I worry about
driving the dirt into the gel coat.

Mark


Boston, MA
2000 R22 *When and If*


On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 11:35?AM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I learned a new word recently. When I had my boat hull blisters repaired
> and new bottom paint applied I was asked if I wanted to use Ablative paint.
> When it was explained that the paint sheds layers in order to stay clean I
> said "Hell no"! You see, that explained why twice a year, when I brought my
> boat to the driveway for maintenance and cleaning, which included pressure
> washing the hull, including the bottom paint, I had streams of blue paint
> washing down the driveway. It probably also went a long way in explaining
> why the bottom blistered! I now have a good strong bottom paint that will
> not shed. As a lake sailor there is probably much less need for Ablative
> paint anyway. My advice then is if you do have Ablative Bottom paint you
> might want to avoid pressure washing that portion of your hull.
>
> Eddie Mac
> s/v Scholar (1988/2001)
>
> On Tue, Jun 11, 2024 at 6:16?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Thanks for this. I have Ego batteries for other electric power tools, but
> > I?ll check these out.  I don?t know if Ego makes a battery-powered power
> > washer (easy enough for me to research).
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> > > On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I bought a cheap one from China which is on the boat so I don?t know
> the
> > name of it, but here is a link to a comparison of the best.
> > > Dewalt and Ryobi are very good, so if you have those batteries, it
> might
> > be the best choice.
> > > I was suckered in on an Instagram add and bought it before I realized
> > there are many better options - I think I paid well under $100 for it and
> > it wrks pretty well.
> > > Mine is a rechargeable unit so I?ll have to charge it on the boat with
> > my 12v DC
> > > Best
> > > Ric
> > >
> >
> https://www.bestproductsreviews.com/battery-operated-pressure-washers?targetid=&matchtype=&device=c&campaignid=18760692132&creative=&adgroupid=&feeditemid=&loc_physical_ms=9004570&loc_interest_ms=&network=x&devicemodel=&placement=&keyword=$&target=&aceid=&adposition=&trackid=us_all_top_1_1&mId=407-132-4411&trackOld=true&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw65-zBhBkEiwAjrqRMNCKHTjAPnpZg_RqVTG3FX-I3lRT-RN1sSV915xALvLUrXJ79_l7RhoC8rIQAvD_BwE
> > ?
> > > Our 10 Best Battery Operated Pressure Washers in the US - June 2024
> > > bestproductsreviews.com
> > >
> > > Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> > > ric at stottarchitecture.com
> > > O -631-283-1777
> > > C- 516-965-3164
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:36 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I got a relatively cheap Westinghouse electric pressure washer on
> > Amazon early this year for my Rhodes near Tampa, wow does it work well.
> I
> > use the wider spray nozzle for lower pressure. Take heed of Peter?s
> comment
> > and don?t spray close to hatches - I got some spray inside, I?ll be more
> > careful next time. Worked so well I brought it up to Lake George for my
> > other Rhodes. That one reaalllyyyy needed it.
> > >>
> > >> Larry
> > >>
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: image0.jpeg
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 160889 bytes
> > >> Desc: not available
> > >> URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240611/b452f6f2/attachment.jpeg
> > >
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>
> > >>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com
> >
> > wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> ?Thanks, David.
> > >>>
> > >>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Frank,
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is
> good
> > for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with
> some
> > water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If
> you
> > used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> David Berg
> > >>>> Minneapolis, MN
> > >>>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
> > >>>>
> > >>>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
> > Of Frank Goldsmith
> > >>>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the
> > deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Frank
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com
> >
> > wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If
> > you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Peter Nyberg
> > >>>>> Coventry, CT
> > >>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work
> dock
> > >>>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses
> > >>>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think
> > >>>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?
> Seems
> > >>>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to
> > be
> > >>>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Frank
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Frank Goldsmith
> > >>>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> > >>>>>> Fairview, NC
> > >>>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: logo.png
> > > Type: image/png
> > > Size: 33909 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240611/aa8cc5e9/attachment.png
> > >
> >
> >
>

From cindyspitzer at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 15:09:54 2024
From: cindyspitzer at gmail.com (Cindy Spitzer)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 15:09:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
Message-ID: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Dear Rhodes family,

This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.

After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.

While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
past and present, and considers all of you his family.

I will post additional updates  as we know more.

Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.

Cindy

From forg3d at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 16:07:44 2024
From: forg3d at gmail.com (Jeffrey Camiel)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 15:07:44 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8AE1AB40-A894-4FE3-8F9F-79C44EB0F217@gmail.com>

Thank you very much for the update!!  



> On Jun 15, 2024, at 2:10?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Dear Rhodes family,
> 
> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> 
> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> 
> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> 
> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> 
> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> 
> Cindy

From jayf401 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 17:01:41 2024
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 17:01:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <8AE1AB40-A894-4FE3-8F9F-79C44EB0F217@gmail.com>
References: <8AE1AB40-A894-4FE3-8F9F-79C44EB0F217@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DD8ADA7C-BAE9-42CC-860F-683DDAA7BBFE@gmail.com>

Cindy, 
We really appreciate hearing this update, as Stan?s been in our prayers.

Jay & Jody

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2024, at 4:08?PM, Jeffrey Camiel <forg3d at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thank you very much for the update!!  
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 15, 2024, at 2:10?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Dear Rhodes family,
>> 
>> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
>> 
>> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
>> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
>> 
>> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
>> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
>> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
>> 
>> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
>> 
>> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
>> 
>> Cindy

From snstaum at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 20:23:47 2024
From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 20:23:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <DD8ADA7C-BAE9-42CC-860F-683DDAA7BBFE@gmail.com>
References: <8AE1AB40-A894-4FE3-8F9F-79C44EB0F217@gmail.com>
 <DD8ADA7C-BAE9-42CC-860F-683DDAA7BBFE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOo_FjcN1RJsyqPCHwesF7oiM2i3_c8Hui4Xr=UO+qbZZ7UVLA@mail.gmail.com>

Cindy,

Thanks for the update. Please give Stan all our love ??. His marvelous
sailboat has changed our lives in a very profound and positive manner.

We are enjoying another sunset on our lovely (& 3rd) Rhodes 22 as I write
this.

Shalom and Stay Well,
Stephen Staum and Carol Urwitz


On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 5:01?PM Jay Friedland <jayf401 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Cindy,
> We really appreciate hearing this update, as Stan?s been in our prayers.
>
> Jay & Jody
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 15, 2024, at 4:08?PM, Jeffrey Camiel <forg3d at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Thank you very much for the update!!
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Jun 15, 2024, at 2:10?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?Dear Rhodes family,
> >>
> >> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> >>
> >> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is
> receiving
> >> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> >>
> >> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors,
> or
> >> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
> >> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> >>
> >> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> >>
> >> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> >>
> >> Cindy
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 20:26:14 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 20:26:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9A1FB252-B734-48BB-890A-345ABD8CE75E@gmail.com>

Dear Cindy,

Thanks so much for this update on our Stan.  I hear that he is unable to take phone calls or read e-mails and cards or receive visitors, but I am confident he will listen to what his daughter has to say.  Please tell him ? you may have to get close to his ear and keep your voice up, but you know that ? that the whole Rhodes community is thinking of him.  We are honored that he thinks of us as his family.  We love him and are grateful to him.  He has given us such an amazing gift of his creative mind, a sailboat that is solid, seaworthy, stable, and a joy to sail.  When people ask me what kind of sailboat I have and I tell them it?s a Rhodes 22, I can hear the respect in their voices when they respond.  We have Stan to thank for that.

I have to add that Stan has a remarkable writing style and unmatched sense of humor.  Even now I re-read the manual for my Rhodes from time to time and chuckle at his wit.  I had the good fortune to visit him in Edenton about three years ago, and the humor was still intact.  He also told me the story of how he met your mother and introduced her to sailing, and how her willingness to give it a try cinched the deal for him on their courtship.  

When you think about it, Stan has created a world, a world of Rhodes lovers who share a passion for this great boat and admire its creator.  Not too bad a legacy.  

Stan and his family are in my heart and my mind at this time.  

Frank 

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On Jun 15, 2024, at 3:09?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Dear Rhodes family,
> 
> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> 
> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> 
> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> 
> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> 
> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> 
> Cindy


From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sat Jun 15 20:33:31 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2024 20:33:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
In-Reply-To: <CAC-_suSqZocyX5Z9B4mU2F0iHWXhpuOgYVaXmcc_k_021e-dTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F5F1282C-8F6D-44C5-A145-0F4A2BC62E7C@gmail.com>
 <6E7C4897-7A35-466B-8EB0-5FA06F01FC19@yahoo.com>
 <9F793746-65E9-40D3-B444-A279A5ED98D8@stottarchitecture.com>
 <6BD79E62-6539-407F-A078-01C07E0EF2A5@gmail.com>
 <CAC-_suSqZocyX5Z9B4mU2F0iHWXhpuOgYVaXmcc_k_021e-dTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4DBC62B-961F-4F86-959C-F381E73CC89E@gmail.com>

Funny, I thought ?ablative? referred to a case in the declension of Latin nouns, but then that was many, many years ago, when I had Latin in high school.  

But I do have another pressure-washing question.  For those of you who use a detergent, do you apply it with the pressure washer, or just with a brush from a bucket, and then use the pressure washer after the detergent sits for a minute (but before it dries out)?  And is there a brand of detergent you use that is not toxic to marine life?  

Thanks for all the advice.

Frank



> On Jun 15, 2024, at 11:35?AM, Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I learned a new word recently. When I had my boat hull blisters repaired
> and new bottom paint applied I was asked if I wanted to use Ablative paint.
> When it was explained that the paint sheds layers in order to stay clean I
> said "Hell no"! You see, that explained why twice a year, when I brought my
> boat to the driveway for maintenance and cleaning, which included pressure
> washing the hull, including the bottom paint, I had streams of blue paint
> washing down the driveway. It probably also went a long way in explaining
> why the bottom blistered! I now have a good strong bottom paint that will
> not shed. As a lake sailor there is probably much less need for Ablative
> paint anyway. My advice then is if you do have Ablative Bottom paint you
> might want to avoid pressure washing that portion of your hull.
> 
> Eddie Mac
> s/v Scholar (1988/2001)
> 
> On Tue, Jun 11, 2024 at 6:16?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Thanks for this. I have Ego batteries for other electric power tools, but
>> I?ll check these out.  I don?t know if Ego makes a battery-powered power
>> washer (easy enough for me to research).
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I bought a cheap one from China which is on the boat so I don?t know the
>> name of it, but here is a link to a comparison of the best.
>>> Dewalt and Ryobi are very good, so if you have those batteries, it might
>> be the best choice.
>>> I was suckered in on an Instagram add and bought it before I realized
>> there are many better options - I think I paid well under $100 for it and
>> it wrks pretty well.
>>> Mine is a rechargeable unit so I?ll have to charge it on the boat with
>> my 12v DC
>>> Best
>>> Ric
>>> 
>> https://www.bestproductsreviews.com/battery-operated-pressure-washers?targetid=&matchtype=&device=c&campaignid=18760692132&creative=&adgroupid=&feeditemid=&loc_physical_ms=9004570&loc_interest_ms=&network=x&devicemodel=&placement=&keyword=$&target=&aceid=&adposition=&trackid=us_all_top_1_1&mId=407-132-4411&trackOld=true&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw65-zBhBkEiwAjrqRMNCKHTjAPnpZg_RqVTG3FX-I3lRT-RN1sSV915xALvLUrXJ79_l7RhoC8rIQAvD_BwE
>> ?
>>> Our 10 Best Battery Operated Pressure Washers in the US - June 2024
>>> bestproductsreviews.com
>>> 
>>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>>> O -631-283-1777
>>> C- 516-965-3164
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 4:36 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I got a relatively cheap Westinghouse electric pressure washer on
>> Amazon early this year for my Rhodes near Tampa, wow does it work well.  I
>> use the wider spray nozzle for lower pressure. Take heed of Peter?s comment
>> and don?t spray close to hatches - I got some spray inside, I?ll be more
>> careful next time. Worked so well I brought it up to Lake George for my
>> other Rhodes. That one reaalllyyyy needed it.
>>>> 
>>>> Larry
>>>> 
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: image0.jpeg
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 160889 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240611/b452f6f2/attachment.jpeg
>>> 
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Thanks, David.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 11, 2024, at 2:13?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Frank,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I use the power washer in spring and fall in the driveway. It is good
>> for stripping the growth off the bottom. I usually have a bucket with some
>> water with boat soap to apply and scrub stubborn areas on the deck. If you
>> used wax on your topsides, the other soaps might strip it off.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> David Berg
>>>>>> Minneapolis, MN
>>>>>> s/v Blue Loon (1996/2003)
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
>> Of Frank Goldsmith
>>>>>> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2024 5:29 PM
>>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pressuring washing a boat
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thanks, Peter.  That was my hope, that it would brighten up the
>> deck.  Do you use any kind of cleanser in the power washer?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Frank
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jun 10, 2024, at 6:24?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I do this every spring.  It really brightens up the white deck.  If
>> you spray close to hatches, water will get inside.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Peter Nyberg
>>>>>>> Coventry, CT
>>>>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On 2024-06-10, at 17:12:02 EDT, Frank Goldsmith wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The other day at our club I noticed a boat tied up at the work dock
>>>>>>>> with the owners using a pressure-washer to clean it (we have hoses
>>>>>>>> and electric cords that extend down to the dock, although I think
>>>>>>>> they were using a gas-powered washer).  Anyone else try that?  Seems
>>>>>>>> it would save a lot of elbow grease, although of course one has to
>> be
>>>>>>>> careful to use an appropriate nozzle setting on the power washer.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Frank
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>>>>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>>>>>>> Fairview, NC
>>>>>>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>> 
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: logo.png
>>> Type: image/png
>>> Size: 33909 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240611/aa8cc5e9/attachment.png
>>> 
>> 
>> 


From sea20 at verizon.net  Sun Jun 16 09:32:48 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (sea20 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2024 13:32:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Stan
References: <890030905.3532681.1718544768174.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <890030905.3532681.1718544768174@mail.yahoo.com>

Thank you Cindy and Frank for the news on Stan. As many have said better than I Stan is well loved and touched many lives. Rebecca and I have enjoyed many laughs and warm conversations onboard our Rhodes thanks to Stan.
-------------- next part --------------
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Jun 17 08:13:36 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2024 12:13:36 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42885A057C8065FD70B9B15D80CD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Dear Cindy,

Thank you for sending out this update on Stan's condition.  Stan produced a product that has literally been a part of my family's life since 1987.  We have so many happy memories of cruises with family and friends, watching sunsets at anchor, and spirited day sails.  My two sons were 4 and 1 years old when we first got our Rhodes 22.  They both grew up around that boat.  It was our magic carpet that enabled many high adventures that would not have been possible otherwise.  Our family photo albums have almost as many pictures with the boat as with any family member!  This Father's Day weekend, I found myself looking thru the albums and thinking about Stan.  How do you thank someone that enriched your life so much over such a long period of time?

I met Stan several times at boat shows.  I found him to be knowledgeable and charming, with a wry sense of humor.  He also had a witty writing style that I enjoyed reading.  How many other instruction manuals can you say that about?

Stan truly lived his life well.  He will be sorely missed.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978   Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2024 3:09 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan

Dear Rhodes family,

This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.

After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.

While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
past and present, and considers all of you his family.

I will post additional updates  as we know more.

Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.

Cindy

From rweiss at siu.edu  Mon Jun 17 08:52:58 2024
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2024 12:52:58 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42885A057C8065FD70B9B15D80CD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42885A057C8065FD70B9B15D80CD2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CH0PR07MB83784009211B1EC507925956C6CD2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Dear Cindy,

Thank you for the update on Stan. I first met him at the Annapolis Boat Show in 2010 and remember sitting on a Rhodes 22 listening to him describe the many features of the boat. I knew then that this was the boat for me. I finally bought a recycled one from Stan in 2014 and have sailed it on Kentucky Lake 8-9 months a year ever since. In 2017 my wife and I spent a couple weeks with Stan and Rose at the factory and then at the boat show helping to get boats ready to show. I cherish those memories. But even better yet, I loved being able to introduce my grandson to Stan at the boat show in 2022. Stan was gracious, funny, and made a strong impression on my young grandson who I'd been teaching to sail my Rhodes 22 for the last 3 summers.

Stan has touched the lives of so many people through his passion for the Rhodes 22 and life. Please know that he is in our thoughts and prayers.

Bob
Beach Spring
1998 Recycled 2014

Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2024 7:13 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan

[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.

Dear Cindy,

Thank you for sending out this update on Stan's condition.  Stan produced a product that has literally been a part of my family's life since 1987.  We have so many happy memories of cruises with family and friends, watching sunsets at anchor, and spirited day sails.  My two sons were 4 and 1 years old when we first got our Rhodes 22.  They both grew up around that boat.  It was our magic carpet that enabled many high adventures that would not have been possible otherwise.  Our family photo albums have almost as many pictures with the boat as with any family member!  This Father's Day weekend, I found myself looking thru the albums and thinking about Stan.  How do you thank someone that enriched your life so much over such a long period of time?

I met Stan several times at boat shows.  I found him to be knowledgeable and charming, with a wry sense of humor.  He also had a witty writing style that I enjoyed reading.  How many other instruction manuals can you say that about?

Stan truly lived his life well.  He will be sorely missed.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978   Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2024 3:09 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan

Dear Rhodes family,

This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.

After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.

While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
past and present, and considers all of you his family.

I will post additional updates  as we know more.

Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.

Cindy

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Mon Jun 17 13:45:24 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2024 13:45:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBBw6WSbWuf408LWU0QEQbfnxMpaokUG0=Kc-L-A1trQBA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Cindy
My heartfelt condolences to you and your family at this difficult time.
Our relationship with your dad begin in 2008 when he talked my wife out of
buying a nudes Rhodes 22. He had good reasons and it was stands typical
behavior that he would only sell a Rhodes 22 to the right buyer at the
right time. Amazing person.
At some point in the future, would it be possible to get more information
about Stan in Eldon?s early days, growing up, learning to sail and their
days in Brooklyn when they started their boat building business.
Warmest regards
Bob Garrant
s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
Kent Island Maryland


On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 3:10?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Dear Rhodes family,
>
> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
>
> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
>
> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
>
> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
>
> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
>
> Cindy
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Jun 17 22:22:11 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2024 22:22:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBBw6WSbWuf408LWU0QEQbfnxMpaokUG0=Kc-L-A1trQBA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPi3tBBw6WSbWuf408LWU0QEQbfnxMpaokUG0=Kc-L-A1trQBA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>

Stan along with your mom, has led a wonderful life. Maybe not the most
comfortable, but an exceptional  one. I know it wasn?t always easy on his
family, but now with hindsight I hope everyone can see what he
accomplished. An amazing partnership, and amazing person. The boat is just
a vessel for his philosophy. And as such his influence on our lives goes
much deeper than what meets the eye. Please give Stan a gentle hug from me.
Chris Geankoplis
XENOS

On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 1:45?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Cindy
> My heartfelt condolences to you and your family at this difficult time.
> Our relationship with your dad begin in 2008 when he talked my wife out of
> buying a nudes Rhodes 22. He had good reasons and it was stands typical
> behavior that he would only sell a Rhodes 22 to the right buyer at the
> right time. Amazing person.
> At some point in the future, would it be possible to get more information
> about Stan in Eldon?s early days, growing up, learning to sail and their
> days in Brooklyn when they started their boat building business.
> Warmest regards
> Bob Garrant
> s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> Kent Island Maryland
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 3:10?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Dear Rhodes family,
> >
> > This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> >
> > After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is
> receiving
> > palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> >
> > While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
> > cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
> > past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> >
> > I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> >
> > Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> >
> > Cindy
> >
>

From cindyspitzer at gmail.com  Mon Jun 17 22:41:53 2024
From: cindyspitzer at gmail.com (Cindy Spitzer)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2024 22:41:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPi3tBBw6WSbWuf408LWU0QEQbfnxMpaokUG0=Kc-L-A1trQBA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABbc6O7wEut6Vn=3ZQ7ahYj1o_Knp_kqAUc1kkwyoVd3+7_7SQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you, Chris, and everyone, for your kindness.

I remember showing you your first Rhodes a million years ago when we  were
both kids.

What an adventure it has been.

Cindy



Cindy Spitzer
443-980-7367

On Mon, Jun 17, 2024, 10:30?PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Stan along with your mom, has led a wonderful life. Maybe not the most
> comfortable, but an exceptional  one. I know it wasn?t always easy on his
> family, but now with hindsight I hope everyone can see what he
> accomplished. An amazing partnership, and amazing person. The boat is just
> a vessel for his philosophy. And as such his influence on our lives goes
> much deeper than what meets the eye. Please give Stan a gentle hug from me.
> Chris Geankoplis
> XENOS
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 1:45?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Cindy
> > My heartfelt condolences to you and your family at this difficult time.
> > Our relationship with your dad begin in 2008 when he talked my wife out
> of
> > buying a nudes Rhodes 22. He had good reasons and it was stands typical
> > behavior that he would only sell a Rhodes 22 to the right buyer at the
> > right time. Amazing person.
> > At some point in the future, would it be possible to get more information
> > about Stan in Eldon?s early days, growing up, learning to sail and their
> > days in Brooklyn when they started their boat building business.
> > Warmest regards
> > Bob Garrant
> > s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> > Kent Island Maryland
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 3:10?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Dear Rhodes family,
> > >
> > > This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> > >
> > > After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is
> > receiving
> > > palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> > >
> > > While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors,
> or
> > > cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes
> lover,
> > > past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> > >
> > > I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> > >
> > > Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> > >
> > > Cindy
> > >
> >
>

From rodellner at mac.com  Mon Jun 17 22:45:24 2024
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2024 20:45:24 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2C65C1F9-01BE-4370-BA3D-F1D33F0A5459@mac.com>

Cindy

Just echoing what everyone has said??we Rhodies we?re blessed to have Stan (and his Compass Rose) at the helm.    We all have stories?..you can truly feel blessed.    As Chris G put so well ?.. the boat is a vessel for his philosophy.     He has truly influenced so many lives??please convey gentle hugs from Rod and myself (formerly TB on the St Croix River in Wisconsin??have moved to Colorado to be close to our family)

Rod and Mary Ellner

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 17, 2024, at 8:22 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Stan along with your mom, has led a wonderful life. Maybe not the most
> comfortable, but an exceptional  one. I know it wasn?t always easy on his
> family, but now with hindsight I hope everyone can see what he
> accomplished. An amazing partnership, and amazing person. The boat is just
> a vessel for his philosophy. And as such his influence on our lives goes
> much deeper than what meets the eye. Please give Stan a gentle hug from me.
> Chris Geankoplis
> XENOS
> 
>> On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 1:45?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Cindy
>> My heartfelt condolences to you and your family at this difficult time.
>> Our relationship with your dad begin in 2008 when he talked my wife out of
>> buying a nudes Rhodes 22. He had good reasons and it was stands typical
>> behavior that he would only sell a Rhodes 22 to the right buyer at the
>> right time. Amazing person.
>> At some point in the future, would it be possible to get more information
>> about Stan in Eldon?s early days, growing up, learning to sail and their
>> days in Brooklyn when they started their boat building business.
>> Warmest regards
>> Bob Garrant
>> s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
>> Kent Island Maryland
>> 
>> 
>> On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 3:10?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Dear Rhodes family,
>>> 
>>> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
>>> 
>>> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is
>> receiving
>>> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
>>> 
>>> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
>>> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
>>> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
>>> 
>>> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
>>> 
>>> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
>>> 
>>> Cindy
>>> 
>> 

From koatimundi100 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 09:23:28 2024
From: koatimundi100 at gmail.com (peter klappert)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 09:23:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan, message 5 June 17 2024.
Message-ID: <CAEZbNGAO56Oz7yNgjkNhniFwUwj31_PuMDQGa+sSfs6wG3d_Kw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Cindy. Thanks very much for your update on Stan, one of the most
remarkable people I?ve been lucky enough to know. Please give him my fond
good wishes and gratitude (yet again) for his remarkable sailboat. It?s
impossible to go out on Aeolia, my 2012 R22, without remembering  visits to
Edenton (including one time a dinner with Rose and Stan) and Stan?s stories
and humor. I?m sure you must know how proud he is of you and your
accomplishments. So please do add me to the chorus of Rhodies sending him
love!


*>>>>>>>>>  *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<*

*Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221*

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 14:37:34 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 14:37:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Subscription Requests
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNDYVH7a-RMzM_NHMUzhZ7YyC+1rge4humr6UFoscB=eg@mail.gmail.com>

All,

Who is responsible for reviewing and granting subscriptions to Da List?

There is a young fellow on the Facebook page who says he tried to subscribe
weeks ago and is still waiting for acceptance.  (?)

Todd T.

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 15:21:16 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 15:21:16 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
Message-ID: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past few
years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the hope
that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.

Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!

[image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
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From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 15:40:57 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 15:40:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B1F6B64B-F7F8-4B60-A3C9-E52AC324A371@gmail.com>

Welcome to the List, Kenwood!  You?ll find the folks here very knowledgeable and helpful.  

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On Jun 18, 2024, at 3:21?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past few
> years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the hope
> that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
> woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.
> 
> Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!
> 
> [image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
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From thyatt at mica.edu  Tue Jun 18 15:41:08 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 15:41:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2JFBD3dknJ+3ycmZ4DFkOvQv=zANiW2HRMEeGKjrW9bCw@mail.gmail.com>

Welcome!!!  Where are you located? Let us know what questions you have.

Tom Hyatt.
S/v Eliza Jane 1978

Baltimore.

On Tue, Jun 18, 2024 at 3:21 PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past few
> years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the hope
> that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
> woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.
>
> Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!
>
> [image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
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> >
>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 15:43:33 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 19:43:33 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB8153EB3B584D16CA2976EAE6F5CE2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Kenwood: Welcome! I will be interested to learn about your restoration have don the same a few years back.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 3:21 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!

Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past few
years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the hope
that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.

Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!

[image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
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From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Tue Jun 18 17:17:31 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 16:17:31 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <2C65C1F9-01BE-4370-BA3D-F1D33F0A5459@mac.com>
References: <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2C65C1F9-01BE-4370-BA3D-F1D33F0A5459@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY7AEbBcNMDGHtBRaL_ODR3aCNd=2svH0U8J0rHOJtvW1A@mail.gmail.com>

My grandmother recalled meeting you and Rose in Massachusetts once in the
60s? He was an MIT engineering grad... (I know you were a Boilermaker,
Purdue) When we told her about having our beautiful vessel, she immediately
told us of the encounter.  She spoke of an in hall meeting after attending
some lecture, and happenstance to a wonderful talk about stained glass...
(Bell)
I knew it was fate we got to enjoy the R22.

You are, and will always be, an inspiratory legend, thank you for doing
everything with passion, organization, huburis, and principal. So many only
choose 1.

Bitten and smitten, hang in there Stan...

Thank you Cindy!




On Mon, Jun 17, 2024, 9:45 PM Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Cindy
>
> Just echoing what everyone has said??we Rhodies we?re blessed to have Stan
> (and his Compass Rose) at the helm.    We all have stories?..you can truly
> feel blessed.    As Chris G put so well ?.. the boat is a vessel for his
> philosophy.     He has truly influenced so many lives??please convey gentle
> hugs from Rod and myself (formerly TB on the St Croix River in
> Wisconsin??have moved to Colorado to be close to our family)
>
> Rod and Mary Ellner
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 17, 2024, at 8:22 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Stan along with your mom, has led a wonderful life. Maybe not the most
> > comfortable, but an exceptional  one. I know it wasn?t always easy on his
> > family, but now with hindsight I hope everyone can see what he
> > accomplished. An amazing partnership, and amazing person. The boat is
> just
> > a vessel for his philosophy. And as such his influence on our lives goes
> > much deeper than what meets the eye. Please give Stan a gentle hug from
> me.
> > Chris Geankoplis
> > XENOS
> >
> >> On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 1:45?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Cindy
> >> My heartfelt condolences to you and your family at this difficult time.
> >> Our relationship with your dad begin in 2008 when he talked my wife out
> of
> >> buying a nudes Rhodes 22. He had good reasons and it was stands typical
> >> behavior that he would only sell a Rhodes 22 to the right buyer at the
> >> right time. Amazing person.
> >> At some point in the future, would it be possible to get more
> information
> >> about Stan in Eldon?s early days, growing up, learning to sail and their
> >> days in Brooklyn when they started their boat building business.
> >> Warmest regards
> >> Bob Garrant
> >> s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> >> Kent Island Maryland
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 3:10?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Dear Rhodes family,
> >>>
> >>> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> >>>
> >>> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is
> >> receiving
> >>> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> >>>
> >>> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors,
> or
> >>> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes
> lover,
> >>> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> >>>
> >>> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> >>>
> >>> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> >>>
> >>> Cindy
> >>>
> >>
>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 17:33:48 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 17:33:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <PH7PR12MB8153EB3B584D16CA2976EAE6F5CE2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB8153EB3B584D16CA2976EAE6F5CE2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT0k4rL8SqKfM+7Nc9N7A+AahwW=h2WjKSnJOyu_bi_8zQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm located in Concord NH!

I'm going to be CNCing up these blocks to attach to the mast, one is the
auto reefing bearing block (planning on using delrin for the bearing and
aluminum for the face) and replacing the rollers inside with HDPE

The lower one is I believe for the cabin top but I've never had it up! I
had pieces of the original to compare too.

Lmk if these look right before I cut and weld haha! A lot easier to change
plans in the design stage than afterwards

Also neither of my original blocks has pins but it looks like there are
holes for pins to be installed? Is that correct? Lmk! And thank you for
your welcomes :)

On Tue, Jun 18, 2024, 3:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

> Kenwood: Welcome! I will be interested to learn about your restoration
> have don the same a few years back.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 3:21 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
>
> Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past few
> years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the hope
> that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
> woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.
>
> Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!
>
> [image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
> -------------- next part --------------
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> Size: 1734189 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240618/09cf3328/attachment.jpg
> >
>
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From snstaum at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 18:06:05 2024
From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 18:06:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT0k4rL8SqKfM+7Nc9N7A+AahwW=h2WjKSnJOyu_bi_8zQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB8153EB3B584D16CA2976EAE6F5CE2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABvjUT0k4rL8SqKfM+7Nc9N7A+AahwW=h2WjKSnJOyu_bi_8zQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOo_FjfNFGO5MTCSkY3oWaDQPv904jDOF5JFA1c49Y=gW6u1Wg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Kenwood. Welcome to ?da list. I sail out of the Hingham Shipyard Marina
in Hingham, MA.  This is my 3rd Rhodes 22 (since 2003). Call me if you have
any questions or need a sailing break from just working on your boat.

Stay Well,
Stephen Staum
Needham, MA
s/v Pinafore
(781) 704-1037


On Tue, Jun 18, 2024 at 5:34?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm located in Concord NH!
>
> I'm going to be CNCing up these blocks to attach to the mast, one is the
> auto reefing bearing block (planning on using delrin for the bearing and
> aluminum for the face) and replacing the rollers inside with HDPE
>
> The lower one is I believe for the cabin top but I've never had it up! I
> had pieces of the original to compare too.
>
> Lmk if these look right before I cut and weld haha! A lot easier to change
> plans in the design stage than afterwards
>
> Also neither of my original blocks has pins but it looks like there are
> holes for pins to be installed? Is that correct? Lmk! And thank you for
> your welcomes :)
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2024, 3:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Kenwood: Welcome! I will be interested to learn about your restoration
> > have don the same a few years back.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Rhodes 22
> > Agile, 1976
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 3:21 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
> >
> > Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past
> few
> > years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the hope
> > that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
> > woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.
> >
> > Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!
> >
> > [image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 1734189 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240618/09cf3328/attachment.jpg
> > >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: <
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> >
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> >
>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Tue Jun 18 15:23:12 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 15:23:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Subscription Requests
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNDYVH7a-RMzM_NHMUzhZ7YyC+1rge4humr6UFoscB=eg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB-twMNDYVH7a-RMzM_NHMUzhZ7YyC+1rge4humr6UFoscB=eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004001dac1b4$f67137e0$e353a7a0$@ebsmed.com>

I have directly answered all inquiries about signing up for da List. Most of the time they don't respond to the verification email. There's no review or grant of access required.

Ken Wood just successfully subscribed.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd Tavares
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 2:38 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Subscription Requests

All,

Who is responsible for reviewing and granting subscriptions to Da List?

There is a young fellow on the Facebook page who says he tried to subscribe weeks ago and is still waiting for acceptance.  (?)

Todd T.


From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 18:30:07 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 18:30:07 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <CAOo_FjfNFGO5MTCSkY3oWaDQPv904jDOF5JFA1c49Y=gW6u1Wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB8153EB3B584D16CA2976EAE6F5CE2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABvjUT0k4rL8SqKfM+7Nc9N7A+AahwW=h2WjKSnJOyu_bi_8zQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOo_FjfNFGO5MTCSkY3oWaDQPv904jDOF5JFA1c49Y=gW6u1Wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT0h1Nsadfpo9QkKFeQsNo70p17QCKioDpgA5-L5GomSNw@mail.gmail.com>

That's very generous Stephen, and so cool! You're not too far from me.
Planning on doing a wet test on lake Winnipesaukee and assuming I don't
sink I'd like to sail from Portsmouth to mystic Connecticut. I'll go right
by you!

On Tue, Jun 18, 2024, 6:15?PM Stephen Staum <snstaum at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Kenwood. Welcome to ?da list. I sail out of the Hingham Shipyard Marina
> in Hingham, MA.  This is my 3rd Rhodes 22 (since 2003). Call me if you have
> any questions or need a sailing break from just working on your boat.
>
> Stay Well,
> Stephen Staum
> Needham, MA
> s/v Pinafore
> (781) 704-1037
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2024 at 5:34?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I'm located in Concord NH!
> >
> > I'm going to be CNCing up these blocks to attach to the mast, one is the
> > auto reefing bearing block (planning on using delrin for the bearing and
> > aluminum for the face) and replacing the rollers inside with HDPE
> >
> > The lower one is I believe for the cabin top but I've never had it up! I
> > had pieces of the original to compare too.
> >
> > Lmk if these look right before I cut and weld haha! A lot easier to
> change
> > plans in the design stage than afterwards
> >
> > Also neither of my original blocks has pins but it looks like there are
> > holes for pins to be installed? Is that correct? Lmk! And thank you for
> > your welcomes :)
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 18, 2024, 3:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Kenwood: Welcome! I will be interested to learn about your restoration
> > > have don the same a few years back.
> > >
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > Rhodes 22
> > > Agile, 1976
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > > Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 3:21 PM
> > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
> > >
> > > Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the past
> > few
> > > years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the
> hope
> > > that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
> > > woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.
> > >
> > > Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!
> > >
> > > [image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 1734189 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240618/09cf3328/attachment.jpg
> > > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> > Size: 271298 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
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> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240618/cefa352c/attachment-0001.jpg
> > >
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 19:37:54 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 19:37:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O7wEut6Vn=3ZQ7ahYj1o_Knp_kqAUc1kkwyoVd3+7_7SQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPi3tBBw6WSbWuf408LWU0QEQbfnxMpaokUG0=Kc-L-A1trQBA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiV7vX4mSm2YOqcY-eRpja2+4tzbryMhPQ7gvdj-GkxhFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O7wEut6Vn=3ZQ7ahYj1o_Knp_kqAUc1kkwyoVd3+7_7SQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVW-2gqfy90-juefL+Y=_yBipak45gmA_JiG2UsYJEAgA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, I remember that well, and a couple years later you brought me a new SS
raking and another time dinner at Stan?s Rises place in NC and you brought
the kid(s). Cindy, Stan raised a remarkable daughter that they were so
proud of. Stan would send me several of your articles. A hug to both you
and Stan.

On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 10:42?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thank you, Chris, and everyone, for your kindness.
>
> I remember showing you your first Rhodes a million years ago when we  were
> both kids.
>
> What an adventure it has been.
>
> Cindy
>
>
>
> Cindy Spitzer
> 443-980-7367
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2024, 10:30?PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com
> >
> wrote:
>
> > Stan along with your mom, has led a wonderful life. Maybe not the most
> > comfortable, but an exceptional  one. I know it wasn?t always easy on his
> > family, but now with hindsight I hope everyone can see what he
> > accomplished. An amazing partnership, and amazing person. The boat is
> just
> > a vessel for his philosophy. And as such his influence on our lives goes
> > much deeper than what meets the eye. Please give Stan a gentle hug from
> me.
> > Chris Geankoplis
> > XENOS
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 1:45?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Cindy
> > > My heartfelt condolences to you and your family at this difficult time.
> > > Our relationship with your dad begin in 2008 when he talked my wife out
> > of
> > > buying a nudes Rhodes 22. He had good reasons and it was stands typical
> > > behavior that he would only sell a Rhodes 22 to the right buyer at the
> > > right time. Amazing person.
> > > At some point in the future, would it be possible to get more
> information
> > > about Stan in Eldon?s early days, growing up, learning to sail and
> their
> > > days in Brooklyn when they started their boat building business.
> > > Warmest regards
> > > Bob Garrant
> > > s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> > > Kent Island Maryland
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 15, 2024 at 3:10?PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Dear Rhodes family,
> > > >
> > > > This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> > > >
> > > > After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is
> > > receiving
> > > > palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> > > >
> > > > While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails,
> visitors,
> > or
> > > > cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes
> > lover,
> > > > past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> > > >
> > > > I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> > > >
> > > > Cindy
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 19:43:34 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 19:43:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT0h1Nsadfpo9QkKFeQsNo70p17QCKioDpgA5-L5GomSNw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT3di5y9hRqMrQqKzFXXhBPXgyyCpMwBvtCCzZZq1Fi8fA@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB8153EB3B584D16CA2976EAE6F5CE2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABvjUT0k4rL8SqKfM+7Nc9N7A+AahwW=h2WjKSnJOyu_bi_8zQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOo_FjfNFGO5MTCSkY3oWaDQPv904jDOF5JFA1c49Y=gW6u1Wg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT0h1Nsadfpo9QkKFeQsNo70p17QCKioDpgA5-L5GomSNw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiWi_=ZOP4wZ5Hi5SoWzhyLhnQOC3sE_NZWmbESMXaurqQ@mail.gmail.com>

Welcome indeed!
Chris Geankoplis
XENOS

On Tue, Jun 18, 2024 at 6:30?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> That's very generous Stephen, and so cool! You're not too far from me.
> Planning on doing a wet test on lake Winnipesaukee and assuming I don't
> sink I'd like to sail from Portsmouth to mystic Connecticut. I'll go right
> by you!
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2024, 6:15?PM Stephen Staum <snstaum at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Kenwood. Welcome to ?da list. I sail out of the Hingham Shipyard
> Marina
> > in Hingham, MA.  This is my 3rd Rhodes 22 (since 2003). Call me if you
> have
> > any questions or need a sailing break from just working on your boat.
> >
> > Stay Well,
> > Stephen Staum
> > Needham, MA
> > s/v Pinafore
> > (781) 704-1037
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 18, 2024 at 5:34?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I'm located in Concord NH!
> > >
> > > I'm going to be CNCing up these blocks to attach to the mast, one is
> the
> > > auto reefing bearing block (planning on using delrin for the bearing
> and
> > > aluminum for the face) and replacing the rollers inside with HDPE
> > >
> > > The lower one is I believe for the cabin top but I've never had it up!
> I
> > > had pieces of the original to compare too.
> > >
> > > Lmk if these look right before I cut and weld haha! A lot easier to
> > change
> > > plans in the design stage than afterwards
> > >
> > > Also neither of my original blocks has pins but it looks like there are
> > > holes for pins to be installed? Is that correct? Lmk! And thank you for
> > > your welcomes :)
> > >
> > > On Tue, Jun 18, 2024, 3:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Kenwood: Welcome! I will be interested to learn about your
> restoration
> > > > have don the same a few years back.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Graham Stewart
> > > > Rhodes 22
> > > > Agile, 1976
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> > > > Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 3:21 PM
> > > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hello Everyone!
> > > >
> > > > Hello! Hope my message makes it to the list. Im new here! For the
> past
> > > few
> > > > years ive been working on rebuilding/restoring a rhodes 22 with the
> > hope
> > > > that very soon i'll be able to sail it! its been a lot of fiberglass,
> > > > woodcutting and CNC machining but we're almost ready.
> > > >
> > > > Hope to hear from the group! I already have so many questions to ask!
> > > >
> > > > [image: PXL_20240604_235632192.jpg]
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
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From dwbrad at gmail.com  Tue Jun 18 23:05:43 2024
From: dwbrad at gmail.com (David Bradley)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2024 23:05:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Update on Stan
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5d_8HFuyxXpZm163B=DJ3e5Z3_p-JiZSkdGQQh7QfZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1C902C73-70B8-4AD0-ACB8-4EE17CB07145@gmail.com>

Dear Cindy,

Thank you for sharing this news. I think of Stan so often, and I am truly grateful to have known him all these years. What an amazing community he created! I bought my boat from him twice (he refurbished it after a storm in 2011) so I had twice the fun of working with him. 

My throughs and prayers are with you and Stan. 

Dave Bradley
Old Greenwich, CT

> On Jun 15, 2024, at 3:09?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Dear Rhodes family,
> 
> This is Stan and Rose's daughter, Cindy Spitzer.
> 
> After a series of health challenges since December, Stan (98) is receiving
> palliative care in a hospital in Newport News, VA.
> 
> While he is currently unable to receive phone calls, emails, visitors, or
> cards, please know that Stan so appreciates each and every Rhodes lover,
> past and present, and considers all of you his family.
> 
> I will post additional updates  as we know more.
> 
> Thank you to everyone, and may the winds be with you.
> 
> Cindy


From rca02536 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 13:52:56 2024
From: rca02536 at gmail.com (Bob Allen)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 13:52:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step repair
Message-ID: <AD038E93-890C-4309-8334-20515DCF8B48@gmail.com>

While launching, the mast leaned to the side and lifted the mast step off its pad in one corner.  The all screws tighten, but the whole step lifts up in  the aft starboard corner.  What is the best way to repair it?

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 14:11:47 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 14:11:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step repair
In-Reply-To: <AD038E93-890C-4309-8334-20515DCF8B48@gmail.com>
References: <AD038E93-890C-4309-8334-20515DCF8B48@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT59nT9c-GXzzr=ttm+P9c5csJR8nw_o=VRJp_JssF=KkA@mail.gmail.com>

If the stainless steel metal base is bent it will likely be very difficult
to flatten. I replaced mine a few years back and, as I recall, it cost
about $55.

Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Wed, Jun 19, 2024 at 1:53 PM Bob Allen <rca02536 at gmail.com> wrote:

> While launching, the mast leaned to the side and lifted the mast step off
> its pad in one corner.  The all screws tighten, but the whole step lifts up
> in  the aft starboard corner.  What is the best way to repair it?

From cindyspitzer at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 16:12:45 2024
From: cindyspitzer at gmail.com (Cindy Spitzer)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 16:12:45 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
thought he would live forever ? has died.

Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
or how much.

And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
suddenly gone.

No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
his on us.

Goodbye, daddy.

From rca02536 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 16:19:59 2024
From: rca02536 at gmail.com (Bob Allen)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 16:19:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <890366A1-E1E7-4A81-B6DE-7D4A29A1FB5D@gmail.com>

Truly sad news. A generational talent. I am blessed to have know him. Our thoughts are with you and your family.  Bob Allen
> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:12?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
> thought he would live forever ? has died.
> 
> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
> or how much.
> 
> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
> suddenly gone.
> 
> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
> his on us.
> 
> Goodbye, daddy.


From forg3d at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 16:27:58 2024
From: forg3d at gmail.com (Jeffrey Camiel)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 16:27:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <890366A1-E1E7-4A81-B6DE-7D4A29A1FB5D@gmail.com>
References: <890366A1-E1E7-4A81-B6DE-7D4A29A1FB5D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D9BCEB3C-49AA-4A7F-B4DB-48A2FA1B9144@gmail.com>

Ah dang, so sad to hear my deepest condolences to his family and all those who have followed him and his love of boats and his boating community. 

> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:20?PM, Bob Allen <rca02536 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Truly sad news. A generational talent. I am blessed to have know him. Our thoughts are with you and your family.  Bob Allen
>> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:12?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
>> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
>> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
>> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
>> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
>> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
>> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
>> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
>> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
>> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
>> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
>> thought he would live forever ? has died.
>> 
>> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
>> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
>> or how much.
>> 
>> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
>> suddenly gone.
>> 
>> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
>> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
>> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
>> his on us.
>> 
>> Goodbye, daddy.
> 

From sea20 at verizon.net  Wed Jun 19 16:53:24 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 16:53:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <D9BCEB3C-49AA-4A7F-B4DB-48A2FA1B9144@gmail.com>
References: <D9BCEB3C-49AA-4A7F-B4DB-48A2FA1B9144@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <64334E2D-67D6-4443-8A38-1D09BC9088ED@verizon.net>

Thank you Cindy. It could not have been said better. Rest in peace Stan.
Scott & Rebecca 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Jeffrey Camiel <forg3d at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Ah dang, so sad to hear my deepest condolences to his family and all those who have followed him and his love of boats and his boating community.
> 
>> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:20?PM, Bob Allen <rca02536 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Truly sad news. A generational talent. I am blessed to have know him. Our thoughts are with you and your family.  Bob Allen
>>>> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:12?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
>>> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
>>> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
>>> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
>>> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
>>> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
>>> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
>>> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
>>> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
>>> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
>>> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
>>> thought he would live forever ? has died.
>>> 
>>> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
>>> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
>>> or how much.
>>> 
>>> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
>>> suddenly gone.
>>> 
>>> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
>>> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
>>> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
>>> his on us.
>>> 
>>> Goodbye, daddy.
>> 


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Jun 19 17:47:37 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 17:47:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005201dac292$4d99f4c0$e8cdde40$@ebsmed.com>

I'm so sorry, Cindy. Thank you for the news, sad as it is.

I can't believe that I met your dad some 45 years ago at the Stamford In-the-Water boat show. He told me not to buy a boat yet - he wanted me to try the new IMF design that he was working on. I waited until the following year. Still no IMF.

We went out for a very windy "test sail" in October 1980, wondering why he sculled his way from the canal behind the house in Amityville until we found the wind. I asked him if the 6HP motor worked and he said that he thought so, but he didn't feel like starting it just to navigate the canal. Vintage Stan.

In heavy wind, I gibed and Stan just smiled as he sat with his back to the cabin in a down coat (his favorite spot). He said that I should learn to sail more gently or I might lose the rail meat. He never had a concern about damaging the boat. I purchased my first Rhodes 22 "trailer package" (without IMF) at Rose's kitchen table as soon as Stan coaxed the boat back to the slip. During the winter months, I became a fixture at the shop, watching my Rhodes being built. I picked it up in March and two weeks later Stan taught me the finer points of sailing his creation on our "shakedown cruise." He showed me everything except how to get her back on the trailer! The water was very cold that night in March. Talk about an adventure...

I used to chide him that for an electrical engineer he was a terrible hack. He thought that it was brilliant to use a two position headlight switch to control the running and interior lighting. Being a Brooklyn Poly minted EE, I redesigned the entire system. He commented that we should add more positive floatation after I put in multiple batteries, solar cells, and an auto radio/cassette.

I finally got my IMF Rhodes when I purchased my 1991 Rhodes with the "Works package" complete with a real traveler! My three female children and my wife much preferred "the flush head" to the old porta potty. I don't know what the problem was with the PP. We enjoyed sailing the LI Sound and built many fond memories on our Rhodes 22 throughout the years. I still sail the '91 as often as I can.

We will miss the old Purdue tinkerer.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Cindy Spitzer
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2024 4:13 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news

Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22 sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter, management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and thought he would live forever ? has died.

Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who or how much.

And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories suddenly gone.

No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ? intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left his on us.

Goodbye, daddy.


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 19 18:06:28 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 22:06:28 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step repair
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT59nT9c-GXzzr=ttm+P9c5csJR8nw_o=VRJp_JssF=KkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AD038E93-890C-4309-8334-20515DCF8B48@gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT59nT9c-GXzzr=ttm+P9c5csJR8nw_o=VRJp_JssF=KkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288D7452DAD78741866EFF480CF2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Bob,

Stainless steel tends to work harden when deformed.  Even if you could straighten out your mast step, I would not recommend it.  It will very likely crack.  Even if it doesn?t actually crack, it will be much weaker vs pre accident.  They are not that expensive and it?s a safety issue, so replace it.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 19, 2024, at 2:12?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?If the stainless steel metal base is bent it will likely be very difficult
> to flatten. I replaced mine a few years back and, as I recall, it cost
> about $55.
> 
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 19, 2024 at 1:53 PM Bob Allen <rca02536 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> While launching, the mast leaned to the side and lifted the mast step off
>> its pad in one corner.  The all screws tighten, but the whole step lifts up
>> in  the aft starboard corner.  What is the best way to repair it?

From melrothbard at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 19 18:51:23 2024
From: melrothbard at yahoo.com (Melvyn Rothbard)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 22:51:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1738985324.7951416.1718837483795@mail.yahoo.com>

So sorry to hear the news of Stan's passing.? He touched so many with his knowledge and humor.? His monument that will last for generations is the Rhodes 22.? One can only hope that his legacy lives on.
Mel Rothbard
Melvyn H. Rothbard Attorney at Law Suite 3C 23 South 23rd Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 215 901 2258 Fax: 215 656 0993 melrothbard at yahoo.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information and/or documents included in or accompanying this transmission contain(s) confidential information belonging to the sender which is legally privileged. The information is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to whom it was sent as indicated above. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking of any action in reliance on the contents of this transmission is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e mail in error, please delete this message and immediately notify us by replying to this e mail or telephoning us at 215 901 2258. 

    On Wednesday, June 19, 2024 at 04:13:06 PM EDT, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
thought he would live forever ? has died.

Every person is a universe.? A solar system of friends, relatives, and
countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
or how much.

And every death is a universe imploding.? A world and all its stories
suddenly gone.

No words can capture a person?s life.? Just know that if you are reading
this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.? As he certainly left
his on us.

Goodbye, daddy.
  

From lgioia at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 19 19:37:36 2024
From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 19:37:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <005201dac292$4d99f4c0$e8cdde40$@ebsmed.com>
References: <005201dac292$4d99f4c0$e8cdde40$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <7BFAD417-3CC7-4C83-9976-21DCB4A4DC9D@yahoo.com>

Sad news, but what a life. So happy to have visited Edenton and met him, heard his stories, & own 2 of his boats. 
  
I?m on an evening sail on Lake George to commemorate his life, no wind, no sound. 
  
Larry

 
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> On Jun 19, 2024, at 5:47?PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I'm so sorry, Cindy. Thank you for the news, sad as it is.
> 
> I can't believe that I met your dad some 45 years ago at the Stamford In-the-Water boat show. He told me not to buy a boat yet - he wanted me to try the new IMF design that he was working on. I waited until the following year. Still no IMF.
> 
> We went out for a very windy "test sail" in October 1980, wondering why he sculled his way from the canal behind the house in Amityville until we found the wind. I asked him if the 6HP motor worked and he said that he thought so, but he didn't feel like starting it just to navigate the canal. Vintage Stan.
> 
> In heavy wind, I gibed and Stan just smiled as he sat with his back to the cabin in a down coat (his favorite spot). He said that I should learn to sail more gently or I might lose the rail meat. He never had a concern about damaging the boat. I purchased my first Rhodes 22 "trailer package" (without IMF) at Rose's kitchen table as soon as Stan coaxed the boat back to the slip. During the winter months, I became a fixture at the shop, watching my Rhodes being built. I picked it up in March and two weeks later Stan taught me the finer points of sailing his creation on our "shakedown cruise." He showed me everything except how to get her back on the trailer! The water was very cold that night in March. Talk about an adventure...
> 
> I used to chide him that for an electrical engineer he was a terrible hack. He thought that it was brilliant to use a two position headlight switch to control the running and interior lighting. Being a Brooklyn Poly minted EE, I redesigned the entire system. He commented that we should add more positive floatation after I put in multiple batteries, solar cells, and an auto radio/cassette.
> 
> I finally got my IMF Rhodes when I purchased my 1991 Rhodes with the "Works package" complete with a real traveler! My three female children and my wife much preferred "the flush head" to the old porta potty. I don't know what the problem was with the PP. We enjoyed sailing the LI Sound and built many fond memories on our Rhodes 22 throughout the years. I still sail the '91 as often as I can.
> 
> We will miss the old Purdue tinkerer.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Cindy Spitzer
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2024 4:13 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
> 
> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22 sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter, management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and thought he would live forever ? has died.
> 
> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who or how much.
> 
> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories suddenly gone.
> 
> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ? intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left his on us.
> 
> Goodbye, daddy.
> 

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 19:38:27 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 19:38:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D38F565D-E9CF-45C5-8245-FBF434A1BBAC@gmail.com>

Dear Cindy,

What a wonderful, beautiful tribute to an extraordinary man.  I am so saddened to hear this news that we know would not be long in coming, but I admire the full and productive life Stan lived with his characteristic humor and grace.  So many of us ? the solar system he created ? have benefited from his life?s labors, and we all mourn with you his passing.  

May his memory be for a blessing.

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:12?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
> thought he would live forever ? has died.
> 
> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
> or how much.
> 
> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
> suddenly gone.
> 
> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
> his on us.
> 
> Goodbye, daddy.


From bobfcohen at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 20:31:16 2024
From: bobfcohen at gmail.com (Robert Cohen)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 01:31:16 +0100
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DD049D56-1A11-4218-975C-4D14ABFDB0CD@gmail.com>

That?s beautiful, Cindy.
Thank you, and thank you, Stan, for creating such a wonderful sailboat.
Bob Cohen
?Silver Bay?
Onekama, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 19, 2024, at 9:13 PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
> thought he would live forever ? has died.
> 
> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
> or how much.
> 
> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
> suddenly gone.
> 
> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
> his on us.
> 
> Goodbye, daddy.

From rodellner at mac.com  Wed Jun 19 20:45:19 2024
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 18:45:19 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <D38F565D-E9CF-45C5-8245-FBF434A1BBAC@gmail.com>
References: <D38F565D-E9CF-45C5-8245-FBF434A1BBAC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F206A16A-9642-4936-809C-933C81B16226@mac.com>

Cindy and family:

Stan (Rose & Elton)??THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES ?????

Rod & Mary Ellner
WI/now Colorado 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 19, 2024, at 5:38?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Dear Cindy,
> 
> What a wonderful, beautiful tribute to an extraordinary man.  I am so saddened to hear this news that we know would not be long in coming, but I admire the full and productive life Stan lived with his characteristic humor and grace.  So many of us ? the solar system he created ? have benefited from his life?s labors, and we all mourn with you his passing.  
> 
> May his memory be for a blessing.
> 
> Frank
> 
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
> 
> 
>> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:12?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
>> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
>> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
>> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
>> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
>> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
>> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
>> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
>> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
>> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
>> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
>> thought he would live forever ? has died.
>> 
>> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
>> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
>> or how much.
>> 
>> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
>> suddenly gone.
>> 
>> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
>> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
>> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
>> his on us.
>> 
>> Goodbye, daddy.
> 

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Wed Jun 19 21:45:58 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2024 21:45:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <F206A16A-9642-4936-809C-933C81B16226@mac.com>
References: <D38F565D-E9CF-45C5-8245-FBF434A1BBAC@gmail.com>
 <F206A16A-9642-4936-809C-933C81B16226@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVrB+njwXJbnQ+jpCUPCyYfH+hy5FGjt+ngD9npmoeA7w@mail.gmail.com>

Cindy, what a poignant eulogy that captured a ray of the light from the
star that was Stan.  I was planning another adventure with a good friend to
the Arctic, knowing Stan would say ?why not?. He taught me to think that
way, and I am a better person for it. I wish I could lessen the void in
your heart.
Chris Geankoplis

On Wed, Jun 19, 2024 at 8:45?PM Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Cindy and family:
>
> Stan (Rose & Elton)??THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES ?????
>
> Rod & Mary Ellner
> WI/now Colorado
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 19, 2024, at 5:38?PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Dear Cindy,
> >
> > What a wonderful, beautiful tribute to an extraordinary man.  I am so
> saddened to hear this news that we know would not be long in coming, but I
> admire the full and productive life Stan lived with his characteristic
> humor and grace.  So many of us ? the solar system he created ? have
> benefited from his life?s labors, and we all mourn with you his passing.
> >
> > May his memory be for a blessing.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > Frank Goldsmith
> > S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> > Fairview, NC
> > Lake Keowee, SC
> >
> >
> >> On Jun 19, 2024, at 4:12?PM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
> >> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose
> Spitzer?s
> >> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer;
> dear
> >> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
> >> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue
> University
> >> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
> >> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of
> mid-century
> >> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines;
> the
> >> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker
> who
> >> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do
> kid
> >> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
> >> thought he would live forever ? has died.
> >>
> >> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
> >> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing
> who
> >> or how much.
> >>
> >> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
> >> suddenly gone.
> >>
> >> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
> >> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
> >> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly
> left
> >> his on us.
> >>
> >> Goodbye, daddy.
> >
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 20 08:24:19 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 08:24:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
Message-ID: <E1sKGpv-0000000HamL-2PZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

A beautiful tribute.  I'm a relatively new rhodie (sp)? I've only owned my '22 for about a year.   I consider myself very privileged to have met Stan at the Annapolis sailboat show last October.  We sat in the drizzle and spoke for around an hour.  He was an extraordinary man who led an extraordinary life.  It doesn't get a whole lot better than that!  

Sincerely,
Peter Beckerman 

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From cindyspitzer at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 10:24:06 2024
From: cindyspitzer at gmail.com (Cindy Spitzer)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 10:24:06 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats lives on
Message-ID: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>

Just a quick note to confirm that the GB Parts Department is still open and
functioning (via Charles Gabriel).  General Boats has everything from sails
to hard to find replacement parts and many other items you may need to
repair or upgrade your boat.  We also have some used Rhodes available in
Edenton, NC, if anyone has an interested.

Thank you again for all your kind words, great stories, and memories
through the years.

A memorial for Stan may be held at this fall's Annapolis Sailboat Show,
where he was an exhibitor for more than 50 years.  I will send updates as I
know more.

Cindy

Cindy Spitzer
443-980-7367

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 10:45:08 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 10:45:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats lives on
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01053A3D-B47E-42D1-B012-2102EE8F95B0@gmail.com>

Thank you, Cindy.  That is great to hear.

Frank


> On Jun 20, 2024, at 10:24?AM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Just a quick note to confirm that the GB Parts Department is still open and
> functioning (via Charles Gabriel).  General Boats has everything from sails
> to hard to find replacement parts and many other items you may need to
> repair or upgrade your boat.  We also have some used Rhodes available in
> Edenton, NC, if anyone has an interested.
> 
> Thank you again for all your kind words, great stories, and memories
> through the years.
> 
> A memorial for Stan may be held at this fall's Annapolis Sailboat Show,
> where he was an exhibitor for more than 50 years.  I will send updates as I
> know more.
> 
> Cindy
> 
> Cindy Spitzer
> 443-980-7367


From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 10:47:38 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 10:47:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
Message-ID: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing. I've
obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he
was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over
the internet.

Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast
fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i have.
My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for
these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive
already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a
roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking
pin style.

Thanks so much.

[image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
[image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
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From borderfolle at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 20 11:24:13 2024
From: borderfolle at yahoo.com (Donald Simons)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 15:24:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats lives on
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1352996456.4490308.1718897053818@mail.yahoo.com>

 
Cindy,




Thank-you for taking the time to keep us updated, and for writing such a meaningful eulogy about your father.? As everyone is in agreement, Stan was an amazing, ?one of a kind? man.? I appreciate the sacrifices that you and your brothers made to support your parents.




We live on the water in upstate NY.? Everyday I look out on our Rhodes and think of Stan, knowing how fortunate I am that our paths of life crossed.




Don Simons,

Old Forge, NY


    On Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 10:24:27 AM EDT, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Just a quick note to confirm that the GB Parts Department is still open and
functioning (via Charles Gabriel).? General Boats has everything from sails
to hard to find replacement parts and many other items you may need to
repair or upgrade your boat.? We also have some used Rhodes available in
Edenton, NC, if anyone has an interested.

Thank you again for all your kind words, great stories, and memories
through the years.

A memorial for Stan may be held at this fall's Annapolis Sailboat Show,
where he was an exhibitor for more than 50 years.? I will send updates as I
know more.

Cindy

Cindy Spitzer
443-980-7367
  

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 12:20:39 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 12:20:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mystery Parts
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+B2H8cku45wGRHHwBCdmZ3Q-GZdvzo1uEt9i+yRoFktBQ@mail.gmail.com>

A mystery to me at least.  Does anyone recognize these as R22 parts?  Came
with my boat in a tupperware.
Patrick
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From charles.gabriel at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 12:23:33 2024
From: charles.gabriel at gmail.com (Charles Gabriel)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 12:23:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mystery Parts
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+B2H8cku45wGRHHwBCdmZ3Q-GZdvzo1uEt9i+yRoFktBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B2H8cku45wGRHHwBCdmZ3Q-GZdvzo1uEt9i+yRoFktBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABCtkXXjWqw8VSxwzrWX4jA1Mstvb5q3nG6uNNoKZXYCPCD9Xw@mail.gmail.com>

They keep the settee/cockpit cushions from sliding out while you are
sitting.

On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 12:20 PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:

> A mystery to me at least.  Does anyone recognize these as R22 parts?  Came
> with my boat in a tupperware.
> Patrick
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Unkownparts.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 740614 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/097b970c/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 12:24:46 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 09:24:46 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <E1sKGpv-0000000HamL-2PZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sKGpv-0000000HamL-2PZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuPUBWh7JnZctCjSUjZ82u7BbWBgFT5gLOg=CN8xK+qLbQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Cindy. I write this with tears in my eyes.

I met Stan only once, at the Annapolis boat show in 1990. He watched as the
boat sold itself.
It was not until 2012 that I was able to buy a  refurbished 86.

Every sail since then has been a reminder of Stan's genius. He lead a
fulfilled life!

Shawn
S/V Sweet Baboo







On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 5:24?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> A beautiful tribute.  I'm a relatively new rhodie (sp)? I've only owned my
> '22 for about a year.   I consider myself very privileged to have met Stan
> at the Annapolis sailboat show last October.  We sat in the drizzle and
> spoke for around an hour.  He was an extraordinary man who led an
> extraordinary life.  It doesn't get a whole lot better than that!
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Beckerman
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 12:52:25 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 12:52:25 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mystery Parts
In-Reply-To: <CABCtkXXjWqw8VSxwzrWX4jA1Mstvb5q3nG6uNNoKZXYCPCD9Xw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B2H8cku45wGRHHwBCdmZ3Q-GZdvzo1uEt9i+yRoFktBQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABCtkXXjWqw8VSxwzrWX4jA1Mstvb5q3nG6uNNoKZXYCPCD9Xw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+B_bQC6rCnnXW6nL4q+=OK=jgWOzgk6UuUhN-sVequjGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Ah, I see.  I will have to look at how they attach.
Thanks Charles.
Patrick


On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 12:23?PM Charles Gabriel <charles.gabriel at gmail.com>
wrote:

> They keep the settee/cockpit cushions from sliding out while you are
> sitting.
>
> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 12:20 PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > A mystery to me at least.  Does anyone recognize these as R22 parts?
> Came
> > with my boat in a tupperware.
> > Patrick
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Unkownparts.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 740614 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
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> > >
> >
>

From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com  Thu Jun 20 13:28:57 2024
From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 17:28:57 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats lives on
In-Reply-To: <01053A3D-B47E-42D1-B012-2102EE8F95B0@gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
 <01053A3D-B47E-42D1-B012-2102EE8F95B0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CH3PR11MB7938402D4BF7C37D56712DF99AC82@CH3PR11MB7938.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Thank you for the info. Stan was a great man !
Tex Hill
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 20, 2024, at 9:45?AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thank you, Cindy.  That is great to hear.
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
>> On Jun 20, 2024, at 10:24?AM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Just a quick note to confirm that the GB Parts Department is still open and
>> functioning (via Charles Gabriel).  General Boats has everything from sails
>> to hard to find replacement parts and many other items you may need to
>> repair or upgrade your boat.  We also have some used Rhodes available in
>> Edenton, NC, if anyone has an interested.
>> 
>> Thank you again for all your kind words, great stories, and memories
>> through the years.
>> 
>> A memorial for Stan may be held at this fall's Annapolis Sailboat Show,
>> where he was an exhibitor for more than 50 years.  I will send updates as I
>> know more.
>> 
>> Cindy
>> 
>> Cindy Spitzer
>> 443-980-7367
> 

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 13:58:09 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 17:58:09 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT6CYO2xg2tjoy=7iBxHkeNSVGL4S46oHP+uWgpKSMLC=A@mail.gmail.com>

Rest in peace Stan. We will miss you.

Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com<mailto:gstewart.gm at gmail.com>


On Wed, Jun 19, 2024 at 4:13 PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com<mailto:cindyspitzer at gmail.com>> wrote:
Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
thought he would live forever ? has died.

Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
or how much.

And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
suddenly gone.

No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
his on us.

Goodbye, daddy.

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 16:04:05 2024
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 16:04:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Salute to the R22
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBDirnhbUVSu5CXWXbnXKzczZxWSBa4DpDZYrX2RYY8d3g@mail.gmail.com>

Yesterday, on the Chester River, I looked up and said,

?Good morning Stan,
We know you?re watching over us as we skate along the breeze,
And angels sing your stories from the heavens, if you please.

We'll set our course and tack or jibe to keep our compass true,

And raise our mugs with Captain Morgan as we toast R22.

Bob Garrant
sv Sail la Vie 2000/2017
Kent Island, Maryland
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From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Thu Jun 20 16:41:09 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 15:41:09 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT6CYO2xg2tjoy=7iBxHkeNSVGL4S46oHP+uWgpKSMLC=A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O6-E-YXsQoEHd7qnbJ_GxhpmZEA-eWb2R0W8mv-F-tZug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABbc6O5+zkTVuMQgsme6XpTjUKVyGscxjRUh+ZJ-2FzX=rGgGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT6CYO2xg2tjoy=7iBxHkeNSVGL4S46oHP+uWgpKSMLC=A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY4_fAr4r37+NVFBGGbsXJDA5Ym+y2xhLNh+BYTuSsfTHA@mail.gmail.com>

?

On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 12:58 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

> Rest in peace Stan. We will miss you.
>
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com<mailto:gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 19, 2024 at 4:13 PM Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com
> <mailto:cindyspitzer at gmail.com>> wrote:
> Stanley Spitzer ? the creator and relentless innovator of the Rhodes 22
> sailboat; the inventor of the earlier Picnic 17; the love of Rose Spitzer?s
> life for more than 70 years; father of Cindy, Scott, and Skip Spitzer; dear
> brother of Elton Spitzer (also a legend in his time); the impossibly
> precocious first born of Harold and Gertrude Spitzer; the Purdue University
> trained electrical engineer, self-taught Madison Avenue copywriter,
> management consultant, wire recorder salesman, and builder of mid-century
> homes so unconventional he had to go to court to defend his roof lines; the
> 98-year-old World War II Navy veteran; the perpetually young risk-taker who
> never saw a mountain too tall or a dream too distant; the skinny can-do kid
> from Brooklyn who dragged a sunken sailboat out of Sheepshead Bay and
> thought he would live forever ? has died.
>
> Every person is a universe.  A solar system of friends, relatives, and
> countless people we touch in countless way, often without fully knowing who
> or how much.
>
> And every death is a universe imploding.  A world and all its stories
> suddenly gone.
>
> No words can capture a person?s life.  Just know that if you are reading
> this right now, that means you ? the full, evolving universe of you ?
> intersected with Stan in some way and left your mark.  As he certainly left
> his on us.
>
> Goodbye, daddy.
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 23:01:30 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 23:01:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats lives on
In-Reply-To: <CH3PR11MB7938402D4BF7C37D56712DF99AC82@CH3PR11MB7938.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
 <01053A3D-B47E-42D1-B012-2102EE8F95B0@gmail.com>
 <CH3PR11MB7938402D4BF7C37D56712DF99AC82@CH3PR11MB7938.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiV7s-EW+iw6f9QGyLANaGp9SJdBBwDOGBKF94=inTPhMw@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Cindy, I hear a bit of Stan?s voice in your words.
Chris G.

On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 2:45?PM Tex Hill <Tejas.Hill at outlook.com> wrote:

> Thank you for the info. Stan was a great man !
> Tex Hill
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 20, 2024, at 9:45?AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Thank you, Cindy.  That is great to hear.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> >> On Jun 20, 2024, at 10:24?AM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Just a quick note to confirm that the GB Parts Department is still open
> and
> >> functioning (via Charles Gabriel).  General Boats has everything from
> sails
> >> to hard to find replacement parts and many other items you may need to
> >> repair or upgrade your boat.  We also have some used Rhodes available in
> >> Edenton, NC, if anyone has an interested.
> >>
> >> Thank you again for all your kind words, great stories, and memories
> >> through the years.
> >>
> >> A memorial for Stan may be held at this fall's Annapolis Sailboat Show,
> >> where he was an exhibitor for more than 50 years.  I will send updates
> as I
> >> know more.
> >>
> >> Cindy
> >>
> >> Cindy Spitzer
> >> 443-980-7367
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Thu Jun 20 23:04:40 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 23:04:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Salute to the R22
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBDirnhbUVSu5CXWXbnXKzczZxWSBa4DpDZYrX2RYY8d3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPi3tBDirnhbUVSu5CXWXbnXKzczZxWSBa4DpDZYrX2RYY8d3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiXXwRG=i8Te9SYTZLaAPKf4pSS-a8dCug9tsoHHcw_jAw@mail.gmail.com>

Hear, hear.
Chris G

On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 4:04?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yesterday, on the Chester River, I looked up and said,
>
> ?Good morning Stan,
> We know you?re watching over us as we skate along the breeze,
> And angels sing your stories from the heavens, if you please.
>
> We'll set our course and tack or jibe to keep our compass true,
>
> And raise our mugs with Captain Morgan as we toast R22.
>
> Bob Garrant
> sv Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> Kent Island, Maryland
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/b566ae4e/attachment.mp4
> >
>

From rodellner at mac.com  Fri Jun 21 00:15:43 2024
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2024 22:15:43 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Salute to the R22
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiXXwRG=i8Te9SYTZLaAPKf4pSS-a8dCug9tsoHHcw_jAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiXXwRG=i8Te9SYTZLaAPKf4pSS-a8dCug9tsoHHcw_jAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C6A35AA1-4594-422A-819F-7B4B12333E3D@mac.com>

Rummy would be requesting Mt Gay?.   Cheers?
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 20, 2024, at 9:04?PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hear, hear.
> Chris G
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 4:04?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Yesterday, on the Chester River, I looked up and said,
>> 
>> ?Good morning Stan,
>> We know you?re watching over us as we skate along the breeze,
>> And angels sing your stories from the heavens, if you please.
>> 
>> We'll set our course and tack or jibe to keep our compass true,
>> 
>> And raise our mugs with Captain Morgan as we toast R22.
>> 
>> Bob Garrant
>> sv Sail la Vie 2000/2017
>> Kent Island, Maryland
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/b566ae4e/attachment.mp4
>>> 
>> 

From forg3d at gmail.com  Fri Jun 21 08:04:08 2024
From: forg3d at gmail.com (Jeffrey Camiel)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 08:04:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Salute to the R22
In-Reply-To: <C6A35AA1-4594-422A-819F-7B4B12333E3D@mac.com>
References: <C6A35AA1-4594-422A-819F-7B4B12333E3D@mac.com>
Message-ID: <0D3CA9E5-5CF7-4CED-93DE-1640738C0892@gmail.com>

Well said!!! 

> On Jun 21, 2024, at 12:15?AM, Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Rummy would be requesting Mt Gay?.   Cheers?
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 20, 2024, at 9:04?PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hear, hear.
>> Chris G
>> 
>>>> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 4:04?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yesterday, on the Chester River, I looked up and said,
>>> 
>>> ?Good morning Stan,
>>> We know you?re watching over us as we skate along the breeze,
>>> And angels sing your stories from the heavens, if you please.
>>> 
>>> We'll set our course and tack or jibe to keep our compass true,
>>> 
>>> And raise our mugs with Captain Morgan as we toast R22.
>>> 
>>> Bob Garrant
>>> sv Sail la Vie 2000/2017
>>> Kent Island, Maryland
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: IMG_0.MOV
>>> Type: video/mp4
>>> Size: 3727591 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/b566ae4e/attachment.mp4
>>>> 
>>> 

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Fri Jun 21 08:23:39 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 08:23:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>

Kenwood,

You know you screwed up right?

You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?


Todd T.

On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing. I've
> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he
> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over
> the internet.
>
> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast
> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i have.
> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for
> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive
> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a
> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking
> pin style.
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
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>

From snstaum at gmail.com  Fri Jun 21 10:45:06 2024
From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 10:45:06 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Salute to the R22
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBDirnhbUVSu5CXWXbnXKzczZxWSBa4DpDZYrX2RYY8d3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPi3tBDirnhbUVSu5CXWXbnXKzczZxWSBa4DpDZYrX2RYY8d3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOo_FjdyWWuz7tq61zvum65vG2rdNkAWieD901N8NbTiOkLrog@mail.gmail.com>

A fitting tribute Bob.  I will opt for a scotch or vodka as my wife and I
toast Stan's memory following our next sail.  This is a great community and
I am glad to share with you all.

*Shalom and Stay Well,*

*Stephen Staum*
*s/v Pinafore*

*Needham, MA*



On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 4:04?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yesterday, on the Chester River, I looked up and said,
>
> ?Good morning Stan,
> We know you?re watching over us as we skate along the breeze,
> And angels sing your stories from the heavens, if you please.
>
> We'll set our course and tack or jibe to keep our compass true,
>
> And raise our mugs with Captain Morgan as we toast R22.
>
> Bob Garrant
> sv Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> Kent Island, Maryland
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/b566ae4e/attachment.mp4
> >
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Fri Jun 21 10:58:02 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 10:58:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats lives on
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiV7s-EW+iw6f9QGyLANaGp9SJdBBwDOGBKF94=inTPhMw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABbc6O7YEXNLjTFd6KiCc8vb161Zbs6xosQQVW-M2UE0ysL+6A@mail.gmail.com>
 <01053A3D-B47E-42D1-B012-2102EE8F95B0@gmail.com>
 <CH3PR11MB7938402D4BF7C37D56712DF99AC82@CH3PR11MB7938.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CADNTwiV7s-EW+iw6f9QGyLANaGp9SJdBBwDOGBKF94=inTPhMw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0C18834D-8703-4BE6-9979-906B5124CC86@stottarchitecture.com>

To support Chris?s comment - Cindy?s words, made me cry and made me smile. 
As poignant and as potent as a short message cold be - nothing wasted.
As much as I hated the news, I loved the delivery and read it over and over - I read it to my wife and my friends.   
It is clear Cindy learned from her dad how to express thoughts perfectly.
Stan was a great writer among his other talents passed on. 
Thank you Cindy for your beautiful expressive and powerful message. 
The tears will dry, one can only have good thoughts about  a 98 year old passing,  the smile that happens  when I think of him  will never go away.
Ric 
 
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 20, 2024, at 11:01 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Thank you Cindy, I hear a bit of Stan?s voice in your words.
> Chris G.
> 
> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 2:45?PM Tex Hill <Tejas.Hill at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
>> Thank you for the info. Stan was a great man !
>> Tex Hill
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Jun 20, 2024, at 9:45?AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Thank you, Cindy.  That is great to hear.
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 20, 2024, at 10:24?AM, Cindy Spitzer <cindyspitzer at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Just a quick note to confirm that the GB Parts Department is still open
>> and
>>>> functioning (via Charles Gabriel).  General Boats has everything from
>> sails
>>>> to hard to find replacement parts and many other items you may need to
>>>> repair or upgrade your boat.  We also have some used Rhodes available in
>>>> Edenton, NC, if anyone has an interested.
>>>> 
>>>> Thank you again for all your kind words, great stories, and memories
>>>> through the years.
>>>> 
>>>> A memorial for Stan may be held at this fall's Annapolis Sailboat Show,
>>>> where he was an exhibitor for more than 50 years.  I will send updates
>> as I
>>>> know more.
>>>> 
>>>> Cindy
>>>> 
>>>> Cindy Spitzer
>>>> 443-980-7367
>>> 
>> 


From rosie.krueger at gmail.com  Fri Jun 21 19:34:46 2024
From: rosie.krueger at gmail.com (Rosie Krueger)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 19:34:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topping lift jamming in IMF
Message-ID: <CACzBh2nanmD0sUUyXpz1k1An+94qbmrNn4jXjjRHVoKmyd8_tA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the welcome and help on my electrical questions - I'll send a
write up of that project at some point soon for the good of the archives!

We got out this week for a shakedown sail (the ice on Lake Champlain had,
in fact, melted - it was a rare 94 degrees!), and had one frustrating
problem.  Each time we unfurled or furled the main sail, the topping lift
line would get caught and wrapped around inside the IMF drum/wrapped sail.
The only way to keep that from happening seemed to be to take the topping
lift line out of its port-side fairlead and jam cleat, and bring it all the
way back to the stern.  The person on the tiller then had to hang onto it
and keep it out of the way and tensioned correctly, while the other person
managed the furling line and the outhaul.  It seems very unlikely that Stan
designed it this way, so I'm assuming it is either operator error on our
part (some special trick that we're missing?), or the prior owner rigged
the topping lift or IMF mast incorrectly.  Perhaps the topping lift is
running through the wrong point up top?  I took a very poor photo -
attached - after the issues started.  At this point, we were able to get
the topping lift to run freely up and down (raising and lowering the boom),
but it is running out through the IMF slot.  I'm not sure if it was doing
that before it got jammed up the first time.

The mainsail is quite new, and the prior owner doesn't seem to have sailed
it much, so it's definitely possible something was not properly rigged
initially.  We did not thoroughly examine this area before raising, so
we're considering lowering the mast to check things out.  Any other
thoughts on this before we do that?

Thanks!
Rosie
s/v Alkyone (2007)
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From jayf401 at gmail.com  Fri Jun 21 19:47:56 2024
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 19:47:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Salute to the R22
In-Reply-To: <CAOo_FjdyWWuz7tq61zvum65vG2rdNkAWieD901N8NbTiOkLrog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOo_FjdyWWuz7tq61zvum65vG2rdNkAWieD901N8NbTiOkLrog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0CE14A74-D4A9-48D6-8EBB-2E9EA3315C68@gmail.com>

28 years ago Stan & Elton introduced Rob Baldi to me to share his hoist & cradle, and Mel Rothbard for a demo sail for my 2nd R22. We?ve sailed nearly every year since, but tomorrow we?re dedicating our sail to Stan?s memory. He always showed concern for each of us.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 21, 2024, at 10:45?AM, Stephen Staum <snstaum at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?A fitting tribute Bob.  I will opt for a scotch or vodka as my wife and I
> toast Stan's memory following our next sail.  This is a great community and
> I am glad to share with you all.
> 
> *Shalom and Stay Well,*
> 
> *Stephen Staum*
> *s/v Pinafore*
> 
> *Needham, MA*
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024 at 4:04?PM Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Yesterday, on the Chester River, I looked up and said,
>> 
>> ?Good morning Stan,
>> We know you?re watching over us as we skate along the breeze,
>> And angels sing your stories from the heavens, if you please.
>> 
>> We'll set our course and tack or jibe to keep our compass true,
>> 
>> And raise our mugs with Captain Morgan as we toast R22.
>> 
>> Bob Garrant
>> sv Sail la Vie 2000/2017
>> Kent Island, Maryland
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: IMG_0.MOV
>> Type: video/mp4
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>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/b566ae4e/attachment.mp4
>>> 
>> 

From kensimolo at gmail.com  Fri Jun 21 19:54:11 2024
From: kensimolo at gmail.com (Ken Simolo)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 18:54:11 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topping lift jamming in IMF
In-Reply-To: <CACzBh2nanmD0sUUyXpz1k1An+94qbmrNn4jXjjRHVoKmyd8_tA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACzBh2nanmD0sUUyXpz1k1An+94qbmrNn4jXjjRHVoKmyd8_tA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAK_z4DrVfXq9ScHSdQX1pe3to6nUHMn9snQ0-DQAtikCaH=poA@mail.gmail.com>

Our rope runs per attached - sorry that I am not at the boat to take a
picture.

Ken




On June 21, 2024 at 7:35:02?PM, Rosie Krueger (rosie.krueger at gmail.com)
wrote:

http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240621/cd769024/attachment.jpe
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 21 22:42:07 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 22:42:07 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topping lift jamming in IMF
Message-ID: <E1sKqhb-0000000AUsu-0rfH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Hi,
  Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but where is the other end going?  The line coming from the slot should run to the back of the boom, the other down the side of the mast.  The topping lift should be tensioned enough to hold the boom 90 degrees to the mast, so that the mainsail rolls evenly into the mast slot.  That should prevent the lift line from getting tangled in the mainsail.  Given all that, it doesn't look right to me, I don't think mine runs from inside the slot at all, but I'll have to double check when I get to the boat tomorrow.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 21 22:58:08 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2024 22:58:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topping lift jamming in IMF
Message-ID: <E1sKqx6-0000000AhWb-3Ucg@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I don't know if this helps, but I found this shot of the top of my mast.  The hand is on the bow side of the mast holding the top of the forestay.  The blue line is the topping lift line that runs down the mast to some blocks that lead it to a cockpit cam cleat.  If you look really closely at the rear of the mast, you can just make out a little blue from the line that runs to the back of the boom.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

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From morrisix at comcast.net  Sat Jun 22 11:14:35 2024
From: morrisix at comcast.net (WILLIAM MORRIS)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 11:14:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topping lift
Message-ID: <543519821.801150.1719069275120@connect.xfinity.com>

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From rosie.krueger at gmail.com  Sat Jun 22 14:45:40 2024
From: rosie.krueger at gmail.com (Rosie Krueger)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 14:45:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topping lift jamming in IMF
In-Reply-To: <E1sKqx6-0000000AhWb-3Ucg@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sKqx6-0000000AhWb-3Ucg@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CACzBh2=4AXtv9k4-AqWVBeL2pJZ=x3g1gqt3aLV4hr+-2LjifA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Ken, Peter and William!  Not a dumb question at all, Peter - I
think you might be on to the issue.  I'll check it out when we're next at
the boat, but from looking at the photos you all sent, I think that we have
the ends reversed - it looks like the side that is now stuck in the IMF
slot should be the end that leads back to the boom, and it should be the
other side of the line that runs down the mast to the fairlead and jam
cleat on the cabin roof.  We had that part done correctly, just perhaps
with the wrong end of the line!  We'll play around with that and see if it
fixes it!
Thanks again!
Rosie

On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 11:15?PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I don't know if this helps, but I found this shot of the top of my mast.
> The hand is on the bow side of the mast holding the top of the forestay.
> The blue line is the topping lift line that runs down the mast to some
> blocks that lead it to a cockpit cam cleat.  If you look really closely at
> the rear of the mast, you can just make out a little blue from the line
> that runs to the back of the boom.
>
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: IMG_20231028_120431.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 5855771 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240621/fdbd25e9/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 22 17:34:29 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 17:34:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>

Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and engage with
other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I don't wanna
step on toes or do something dangerous

On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Kenwood,
>
> You know you screwed up right?
>
> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
>
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing.
> I've
> > obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he
> > was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all
> over
> > the internet.
> >
> > Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast
> > fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
> have.
> > My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
> > come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs
> for
> > these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive
> > already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a
> > roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the
> locking
> > pin style.
> >
> > Thanks so much.
> >
> > [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 3221948 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 2581451 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
> > >
> >
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sat Jun 22 17:51:46 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 17:51:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>

I think Todd was joshing with you.

Frank

> On Jun 22, 2024, at 5:34?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and engage with
> other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I don't wanna
> step on toes or do something dangerous
> 
> On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Kenwood,
>> 
>> You know you screwed up right?
>> 
>> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
>> 
>> 
>> Todd T.
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing.
>> I've
>>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he
>>> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all
>> over
>>> the internet.
>>> 
>>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast
>>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
>> have.
>>> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
>>> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs
>> for
>>> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive
>>> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a
>>> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the
>> locking
>>> pin style.
>>> 
>>> Thanks so much.
>>> 
>>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
>>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 3221948 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>> 
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
>>>> 
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 2581451 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>> 
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 


From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 22 17:53:03 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 17:53:03 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT2xJd-GeP8T8o8wFT1yPXXXprJuCJMxZgDfMgV0=69=vw@mail.gmail.com>

?


On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 5:52?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I think Todd was joshing with you.
>
> Frank
>
> > On Jun 22, 2024, at 5:34?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and engage
> with
> > other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I don't
> wanna
> > step on toes or do something dangerous
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Kenwood,
> >>
> >> You know you screwed up right?
> >>
> >> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
> >>
> >>
> >> Todd T.
> >>
> >> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing.
> >> I've
> >>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece
> he
> >>> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all
> >> over
> >>> the internet.
> >>>
> >>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly
> mast
> >>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
> >> have.
> >>> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
> >>> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs
> >> for
> >>> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive
> >>> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be
> a
> >>> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the
> >> locking
> >>> pin style.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks so much.
> >>>
> >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
> >>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>> Size: 3221948 bytes
> >>> Desc: not available
> >>> URL: <
> >>>
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
> >>>>
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> >>> Type: image/jpeg
> >>> Size: 2581451 bytes
> >>> Desc: not available
> >>> URL: <
> >>>
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
>
>

From hnw555 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 22 18:04:23 2024
From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 18:04:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT2xJd-GeP8T8o8wFT1yPXXXprJuCJMxZgDfMgV0=69=vw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT2xJd-GeP8T8o8wFT1yPXXXprJuCJMxZgDfMgV0=69=vw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADQNfMDH_oyOqk8Tn4UEQZ=R3Je6nOKNnkyqyOX_CxYAhXaTow@mail.gmail.com>

He meant everyone might ask you to make something and there?s a bit of
jealousy. It?sa good thing. ?

On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 6:00?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> ?
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 5:52?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I think Todd was joshing with you.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > > On Jun 22, 2024, at 5:34?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and engage
> > with
> > > other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I don't
> > wanna
> > > step on toes or do something dangerous
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Kenwood,
> > >>
> > >> You know you screwed up right?
> > >>
> > >> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Todd T.
> > >>
> > >> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans
> passing.
> > >> I've
> > >>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece
> > he
> > >>> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation
> all
> > >> over
> > >>> the internet.
> > >>>
> > >>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly
> > mast
> > >>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
> > >> have.
> > >>> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it
> didn't
> > >>> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had
> dimensions/specs
> > >> for
> > >>> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet?
> Ive
> > >>> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to
> be
> > a
> > >>> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the
> > >> locking
> > >>> pin style.
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks so much.
> > >>>
> > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
> > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > >>> Size: 3221948 bytes
> > >>> Desc: not available
> > >>> URL: <
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
> > >>>>
> > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > >>> Size: 2581451 bytes
> > >>> Desc: not available
> > >>> URL: <
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> >
>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 22 19:17:32 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2024 19:17:32 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CADQNfMDH_oyOqk8Tn4UEQZ=R3Je6nOKNnkyqyOX_CxYAhXaTow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT2xJd-GeP8T8o8wFT1yPXXXprJuCJMxZgDfMgV0=69=vw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADQNfMDH_oyOqk8Tn4UEQZ=R3Je6nOKNnkyqyOX_CxYAhXaTow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT0W1ni7WzJ34XrvC17M9KBeHcv_MtBH4s_x506P-eRNMw@mail.gmail.com>

Oh I'm totally fine making parts for people! Especially if it goes both
ways~ I really could use some dimensions and specifications so I know
like.. what parts to make :3

On Sat, Jun 22, 2024, 6:04?PM Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com> wrote:

> He meant everyone might ask you to make something and there?s a bit of
> jealousy. It?sa good thing. ?
>
> On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 6:00?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > ?
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 5:52?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I think Todd was joshing with you.
> > >
> > > Frank
> > >
> > > > On Jun 22, 2024, at 5:34?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and
> engage
> > > with
> > > > other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I don't
> > > wanna
> > > > step on toes or do something dangerous
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Kenwood,
> > > >>
> > > >> You know you screwed up right?
> > > >>
> > > >> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Todd T.
> > > >>
> > > >> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans
> > passing.
> > > >> I've
> > > >>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core
> centerpiece
> > > he
> > > >>> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation
> > all
> > > >> over
> > > >>> the internet.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat,
> mostly
> > > mast
> > > >>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what
> pieces i
> > > >> have.
> > > >>> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it
> > didn't
> > > >>> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had
> > dimensions/specs
> > > >> for
> > > >>> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet?
> > Ive
> > > >>> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to
> > be
> > > a
> > > >>> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the
> > > >> locking
> > > >>> pin style.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks so much.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> > > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
> > > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > > >>> Size: 3221948 bytes
> > > >>> Desc: not available
> > > >>> URL: <
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
> > > >>>>
> > > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> > > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > > >>> Size: 2581451 bytes
> > > >>> Desc: not available
> > > >>> URL: <
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sun Jun 23 08:10:56 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 08:10:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiUtgVN14C642tFvancS2wy94U06v+OdSGBbnFm=f96QNA@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Kenwood.  Todd was joking. It is like when I was a kid and a friend was
the only kid with a pool. Everyone wanted to go for a swim. It is just so
cool that a Rhodie has such a skill and the tools to make so many cool
things for the Rhodes. Welcome to the gang Kenwood.

Chris Geankoplis
S/v XENOS

On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 5:40?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and engage with
> other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I don't wanna
> step on toes or do something dangerous
>
> On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Kenwood,
> >
> > You know you screwed up right?
> >
> > You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
> >
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing.
> > I've
> > > obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece
> he
> > > was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all
> > over
> > > the internet.
> > >
> > > Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly
> mast
> > > fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
> > have.
> > > My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
> > > come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs
> > for
> > > these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive
> > > already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be
> a
> > > roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen the
> > locking
> > > pin style.
> > >
> > > Thanks so much.
> > >
> > > [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > > [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 3221948 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 2581451 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From rca02536 at gmail.com  Sun Jun 23 09:35:10 2024
From: rca02536 at gmail.com (Bob Allen)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 09:35:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gooseneck
Message-ID: <E1sLNN8-0000000HOH7-0Kdh@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Hi all,  launched air force this weekend and found I need to replace the gooseneck between the boom and the mast. I understand parts are still available, How do we go about getting them?

Bob Allen
s/v air force

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From rweiss at siu.edu  Sun Jun 23 09:40:41 2024
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 13:40:41 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gooseneck
In-Reply-To: <E1sLNN8-0000000HOH7-0Kdh@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sLNN8-0000000HOH7-0Kdh@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CH0PR07MB8378C7B84BA3BC079E3F6F47C6CB2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Email Charles Gabriel at

charles.gabriel at gmail.com



Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Bob Allen <rca02536 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2024 8:35 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gooseneck

[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.

Hi all,  launched air force this weekend and found I need to replace the gooseneck between the boom and the mast. I understand parts are still available, How do we go about getting them?

Bob Allen
s/v air force

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sun Jun 23 10:22:58 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 10:22:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT0W1ni7WzJ34XrvC17M9KBeHcv_MtBH4s_x506P-eRNMw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT2xJd-GeP8T8o8wFT1yPXXXprJuCJMxZgDfMgV0=69=vw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADQNfMDH_oyOqk8Tn4UEQZ=R3Je6nOKNnkyqyOX_CxYAhXaTow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT0W1ni7WzJ34XrvC17M9KBeHcv_MtBH4s_x506P-eRNMw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT7xZ=hrQdLPXv7h1K2oc0ip85y4LjJh=Li81iKP3t0B4g@mail.gmail.com>

I, for one, would be very interested to see examples of how you use the CNC
to make boat parts.

Graham Stewart



On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 7:17 PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Oh I'm totally fine making parts for people! Especially if it goes both
> ways~ I really could use some dimensions and specifications so I know
> like.. what parts to make :3
>
> On Sat, Jun 22, 2024, 6:04?PM Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > He meant everyone might ask you to make something and there?s a bit of
> > jealousy. It?sa good thing. ?
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 6:00?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > ?
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 5:52?PM Frank Goldsmith <
> goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > I think Todd was joshing with you.
> > > >
> > > > Frank
> > > >
> > > > > On Jun 22, 2024, at 5:34?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and
> > engage
> > > > with
> > > > > other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I
> don't
> > > > wanna
> > > > > step on toes or do something dangerous
> > > > >
> > > > > On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <
> tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Kenwood,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> You know you screwed up right?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Todd T.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans
> > > passing.
> > > > >> I've
> > > > >>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core
> > centerpiece
> > > > he
> > > > >>> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and
> documentation
> > > all
> > > > >> over
> > > > >>> the internet.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat,
> > mostly
> > > > mast
> > > > >>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what
> > pieces i
> > > > >> have.
> > > > >>> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it
> > > didn't
> > > > >>> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had
> > > dimensions/specs
> > > > >> for
> > > > >>> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main
> sheet?
> > > Ive
> > > > >>> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going
> to
> > > be
> > > > a
> > > > >>> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen
> the
> > > > >> locking
> > > > >>> pin style.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Thanks so much.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > > > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> > > > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > > > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg
> > > > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > > > >>> Size: 3221948 bytes
> > > > >>> Desc: not available
> > > > >>> URL: <
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > > > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> > > > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > > > >>> Size: 2581451 bytes
> > > > >>> Desc: not available
> > > > >>> URL: <
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 23 14:04:59 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 14:04:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gooseneck
Message-ID: <E1sLRaF-00000003X2i-2w9H@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Bob, 
    Peter Nyberg from SV silver heels made a video about replacing and upgrading the gooseneck.  It's worth a few minutes to review.  It includes sourcing.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 23 14:12:43 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 14:12:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
Message-ID: <E1sLRhj-00000003fbJ-0Ueb@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

The Rhodes manual (available for download on this site) includes recommendations for jib sheets.  There maybe some for mainsheet, not sure.
It sounds like you're already into making a traveler, but Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company has travelers/parts (you have to dig around the website), and you could also check with Charles Gabriel at General Boats.  New England rope makes quality line, there are others as well.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 23 14:22:41 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 14:22:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
Message-ID: <E1sLRrN-00000003l88-3paq@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I'm not sure what you mean by "locking mainsheet" but perhaps you're looking for a fiddle block with cam cleat.  These are frequently used to lock mainsheets in position.  Google will provide many leads.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sun Jun 23 15:51:13 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2024 15:51:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gooseneck
Message-ID: <E1sLTF3-00000004rXM-3KwW@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Unfortunately, since I made that video, the Dwyer website has changed.  They have pages of parts, but I can?t find the parts I used for the repair I did to my gooseneck. :^(

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)



[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-23, at 14:04:59 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> Bob,
>     Peter Nyberg from SV silver heels made a video about replacing and upgrading 
> the gooseneck.  It's worth a few minutes to review.  It includes sourcing. 
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> 



From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 24 00:22:12 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2024 00:22:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Gooseneck
Message-ID: <420D72AC-44DE-4B62-9C55-145CEF91CD7D@gmail.com>

?Bob,

I replaced my gooseneck recently.  I got the following parts from Dwyer:

DH3143 U-bracket heavy, qty 2
DH3141 U-bracket standard, qty 1
DH334 heavy duty universal
DH315 gooseneck fork
CLP-4-0.984: Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/8" , qty 2
CR1 rigging ring, qty 2

If you need to replace your fork, you have to drill a hole through it for the bolt that holds the fork in the boom.  If you currently have 2 bolts, you only need to use one in the replacement fork, which greatly simplifies the project. I had a local machine shop drill the hole for me, since it requires the right tools, skills, and a very hard drill bit.  In my case it was a 1/8? hole.  

I have not yet replaced the U-bracket on the boom slider in the mast since I didn?t want to remove my mast at that time, so I just replaced the standard U-bracket on the slider which I was able to do with the mast up.  I intend to install the heavy duty U-bracket when I next drop my mast.

Peter Dwyer of Dwyer mast was very helpful:

mail at dwyermast.com
(203) 484-0419

Michael McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 23, 2024, at 3:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Unfortunately, since I made that video, the Dwyer website has changed.  They have pages of parts, but I can?t find the parts I used for the repair I did to my gooseneck. :^(
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-23, at 14:04:59 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>> Bob,
>>   Peter Nyberg from SV silver heels made a video about replacing and upgrading
>> the gooseneck.  It's worth a few minutes to review.  It includes sourcing.
>> Peter
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 24 11:52:48 2024
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (Joseph Dempsey)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2024 11:52:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sad news
Message-ID: <4F672784-7145-4E34-BDEE-EB10C1EB9307@hxcore.ol>


From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 24 21:52:08 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2024 21:52:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <E1sLRrN-00000003l88-3paq@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sLRrN-00000003l88-3paq@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT0Hy_4hd8eqp6ytyNe51WGhsHVpDOYA5-nKhz4QLLrFUA@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry for the delay, I did read through everyone's questions yes!

Ken I need to make a lot of parts haha, and a lot of components for my
mainsheet are missing. I need a traveler, I also need spreaders. And the
length of both is important because it tensions the lines and stays.

And yes peter sorry, i meant a locking fiddle style 4:1 reduction. Ive seen
something similar on a few rhodes on youtube but, im kinda struggling to
find something similar. I think though that i'll just purchase a small
fiddle block from a smaller boat and machine everything else. I know the
mainsail is kinda small-ish in proportion to the jib on this boat.

If anyone could provide nominal widths for the spreaders especially but
also the traveler I would appreciate it tons!

P.S I've attached a little video of my progress so far!
<https://nextcloud.kitsunehosting.net/index.php/s/sRFQm2PYqjJioQY>

On Sun, Jun 23, 2024 at 2:22?PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I'm not sure what you mean by "locking mainsheet" but perhaps you're
> looking for a fiddle block with cam cleat.  These are frequently used to
> lock mainsheets in position.  Google will provide many leads.
>
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Jun 24 22:36:36 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2024 22:36:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT0Hy_4hd8eqp6ytyNe51WGhsHVpDOYA5-nKhz4QLLrFUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sLRrN-00000003l88-3paq@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CABvjUT0Hy_4hd8eqp6ytyNe51WGhsHVpDOYA5-nKhz4QLLrFUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiUJ5Oj3oSY3L-+Sg2+POZacpRrDJfAeinLwe2dx5M_4Sw@mail.gmail.com>

Man, it is coming together. Keep the questions and videos coming.

Chris G.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2024 at 9:52?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Sorry for the delay, I did read through everyone's questions yes!
>
> Ken I need to make a lot of parts haha, and a lot of components for my
> mainsheet are missing. I need a traveler, I also need spreaders. And the
> length of both is important because it tensions the lines and stays.
>
> And yes peter sorry, i meant a locking fiddle style 4:1 reduction. Ive seen
> something similar on a few rhodes on youtube but, im kinda struggling to
> find something similar. I think though that i'll just purchase a small
> fiddle block from a smaller boat and machine everything else. I know the
> mainsail is kinda small-ish in proportion to the jib on this boat.
>
> If anyone could provide nominal widths for the spreaders especially but
> also the traveler I would appreciate it tons!
>
> P.S I've attached a little video of my progress so far!
> <https://nextcloud.kitsunehosting.net/index.php/s/sRFQm2PYqjJioQY>
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2024 at 2:22?PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > I'm not sure what you mean by "locking mainsheet" but perhaps you're
> > looking for a fiddle block with cam cleat.  These are frequently used to
> > lock mainsheets in position.  Google will provide many leads.
> >
> > Peter
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
> >
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 24 22:41:01 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2024 22:41:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
Message-ID: <E1sLw7B-0000000Ax04-0ujT@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Boat is looking good.  
   About a year ago a forum member posted a spec sheet from Dwyer with the spreader length.  I can't seem to find it.  I think it is 35.5 inches, but I'm not positive.  1inch od anodized aluminum.  
   It shouldn't be very hard to find a fiddle block w/cleat, any Chandler s should be able to hook you up (ebay?)
   Are you looking for the length of the tube that the traveler rides on?  I'll measure when I get back to my boat, but I won't be back in town till the 4th.  Hopefully someone else will chime in

Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Jun 25 10:00:28 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2024 10:00:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <E1sLw7B-0000000Ax04-0ujT@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sLw7B-0000000Ax04-0ujT@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <E616D1B0-2A3C-427C-A36E-D6CAB28D58AE@stottarchitecture.com>

I?ll get to the spreaders in a minute. 
I have an ?84 Continental Mast on Dadventure - the original. 
I have n IMF mast and all the parts for it, including the sail, but its still a project that needs time and I'm busy with an addition to my house now. 
I happen to have a spare Continental mast which is free for anyone who wants it and can pick it up - it has spreaders but needs the end caps to hold the 1/8? stays.
Shrouds and rigging not included. 
The Continental spreader is 34 -3/4? plus the cap = 35?
The IMF spreader is 35 -7/8 plus the end cap = 36 -1/16? 
The IMF must is little thicker also - I didn?t measure it though.
Can't help at this point with the sheet lengths and dimities but I?ll be back on the boat before the weekend. 
Feel free to calll or text - #s below 
Ric 
Dadventure 
?84 Continental - so far 
Hampton Bays, NY  
 
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 24, 2024, at 10:41 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Boat is looking good.  
>   About a year ago a forum member posted a spec sheet from Dwyer with the spreader length.  I can't seem to find it.  I think it is 35.5 inches, but I'm not positive.  1inch od anodized aluminum.  
>   It shouldn't be very hard to find a fiddle block w/cleat, any Chandler s should be able to hook you up (ebay?)
>   Are you looking for the length of the tube that the traveler rides on?  I'll measure when I get back to my boat, but I won't be back in town till the 4th.  Hopefully someone else will chime in
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 


From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 25 12:57:41 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2024 12:57:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT0Hy_4hd8eqp6ytyNe51WGhsHVpDOYA5-nKhz4QLLrFUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sLRrN-00000003l88-3paq@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CABvjUT0Hy_4hd8eqp6ytyNe51WGhsHVpDOYA5-nKhz4QLLrFUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNjFaqR9WKnBQJCND=a4YkjNysTBxini1Qc4qS2ci5gOw@mail.gmail.com>

Ken

I just replaced most of my running rigging based off an Archive post from
29 January 2003, from Lloyd Crother. I can not paste a link directly to the
post for some reason, but you can go to the Archives and list the posts out
by date.

The jib sheet is 60ft of 3/8". That is using a continuous line, ? for each
side of 30 ft.
I am actually planning to buy another jib sheet. I thought I'd be fancy and
get two separate lines; red and green but the problem there is the size of
the knot(s).

Todd T.


On Mon, Jun 24, 2024, 10:10 PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Sorry for the delay, I did read through everyone's questions yes!
>
> Ken I need to make a lot of parts haha, and a lot of components for my
> mainsheet are missing. I need a traveler, I also need spreaders. And the
> length of both is important because it tensions the lines and stays.
>
> And yes peter sorry, i meant a locking fiddle style 4:1 reduction. Ive seen
> something similar on a few rhodes on youtube but, im kinda struggling to
> find something similar. I think though that i'll just purchase a small
> fiddle block from a smaller boat and machine everything else. I know the
> mainsail is kinda small-ish in proportion to the jib on this boat.
>
> If anyone could provide nominal widths for the spreaders especially but
> also the traveler I would appreciate it tons!
>
> P.S I've attached a little video of my progress so far!
> <https://nextcloud.kitsunehosting.net/index.php/s/sRFQm2PYqjJioQY>
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2024 at 2:22?PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > I'm not sure what you mean by "locking mainsheet" but perhaps you're
> > looking for a fiddle block with cam cleat.  These are frequently used to
> > lock mainsheets in position.  Google will provide many leads.
> >
> > Peter
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
> >
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 08:51:52 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 07:51:52 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Rhodies,

I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.

I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent over
the time I was on this list.

I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there is a
very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There is a
similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage just
very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I had
noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should be
concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit too
much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for your
help and perspective.

Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 26 09:25:04 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 13:25:04 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Matt,

My 1978 Rhodes has a stout compression post in the cabin under the mast.  I can?t speak about this feature re newer boats.  Is your cabin interior custom?  Unless your cabin roof is very thick, it would take something like a steel I-beam spanning the cabin to withstand the compression load from the mast without a compression post.  If you have a stud finder, you should be able determine if there is a steel I-beam built into your cabin roof.  If it?s not there; then, you have a problem.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2024, at 8:52?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hello Rhodies,
> 
> I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.
> 
> I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
> sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
> enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent over
> the time I was on this list.
> 
> I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there is a
> very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There is a
> similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage just
> very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I had
> noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
> directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should be
> concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit too
> much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
> hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for your
> help and perspective.
> 
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 10:11:04 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 09:11:04 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>

My boat is a 1990. Perhaps someone else can comment on that vintage.  I
believe it has a normal interior.
Roger, does your post get in the way of the bathroom door?  Would it be as
simple as adding one as long as it has a solid footing down to the hull?

Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> My 1978 Rhodes has a stout compression post in the cabin under the mast.
> I can?t speak about this feature re newer boats.  Is your cabin interior
> custom?  Unless your cabin roof is very thick, it would take something like
> a steel I-beam spanning the cabin to withstand the compression load from
> the mast without a compression post.  If you have a stud finder, you should
> be able determine if there is a steel I-beam built into your cabin roof.
> If it?s not there; then, you have a problem.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 26, 2024, at 8:52?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hello Rhodies,
> >
> > I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.
> >
> > I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
> > sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
> > enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent
> over
> > the time I was on this list.
> >
> > I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there is
> a
> > very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There is a
> > similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage just
> > very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I
> had
> > noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
> > directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should be
> > concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit
> too
> > much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
> > hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for your
> > help and perspective.
> >
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake, MN
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Jun 26 10:18:16 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 10:18:16 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
Message-ID: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Ken,

My traveller bar is 60" long.
My main sheet is 33' long.
My jib sheet  (one line for both port & starboard) is 60' long.

Both sheets are 3/8" double braided.
All items are original as supplied by General Boats.

You seem to be making excellent progress in your restoration.  Thanks for bringing an old Rhodes 22 back to life, and for joining our community.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-20, at 10:47:38 EDT, Kenwood _ wrote:
>
> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing. I've 
> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he was. 
> He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over the 
> internet. 
> 
> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast 
> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i have. My 
> boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't come with a 
> traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for these pieces? Or 
> perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive already purchased and 
> begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a roller type with a set of 
> blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking pin style. 
> 
> Thanks so much.
> 
> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg</a> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg" 
> target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg</a> 
> 



From rlowe at vt.edu  Wed Jun 26 10:47:53 2024
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 14:47:53 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB69854C08AA8FB65D959E5794C1D62@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Matt,
I agree with Roger. You must have a compression post or some other means to support the downward forces on the mast. We have heard of unsuspecting owners removing the compression post. Take some photos of your set up and post them.

Rob

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 10:11:04 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

My boat is a 1990. Perhaps someone else can comment on that vintage.  I
believe it has a normal interior.
Roger, does your post get in the way of the bathroom door?  Would it be as
simple as adding one as long as it has a solid footing down to the hull?

Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> My 1978 Rhodes has a stout compression post in the cabin under the mast.
> I can?t speak about this feature re newer boats.  Is your cabin interior
> custom?  Unless your cabin roof is very thick, it would take something like
> a steel I-beam spanning the cabin to withstand the compression load from
> the mast without a compression post.  If you have a stud finder, you should
> be able determine if there is a steel I-beam built into your cabin roof.
> If it?s not there; then, you have a problem.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 26, 2024, at 8:52?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hello Rhodies,
> >
> > I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.
> >
> > I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
> > sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
> > enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent
> over
> > the time I was on this list.
> >
> > I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there is
> a
> > very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There is a
> > similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage just
> > very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I
> had
> > noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
> > directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should be
> > concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit
> too
> > much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
> > hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for your
> > help and perspective.
> >
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake, MN
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 26 10:52:33 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 14:52:33 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42888B24059FD3B28EA9B9BB80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Matt,

My boat has a sliding curtain, not a door.  The compression post would need to run from the ceiling down to the sole of the bilge.

Roger Pihlaja 
Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2024, at 10:11?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?My boat is a 1990. Perhaps someone else can comment on that vintage.  I
> believe it has a normal interior.
> Roger, does your post get in the way of the bathroom door?  Would it be as
> simple as adding one as long as it has a solid footing down to the hull?
> 
> Matt
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Matt,
>> 
>> My 1978 Rhodes has a stout compression post in the cabin under the mast.
>> I can?t speak about this feature re newer boats.  Is your cabin interior
>> custom?  Unless your cabin roof is very thick, it would take something like
>> a steel I-beam spanning the cabin to withstand the compression load from
>> the mast without a compression post.  If you have a stud finder, you should
>> be able determine if there is a steel I-beam built into your cabin roof.
>> If it?s not there; then, you have a problem.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 26, 2024, at 8:52?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hello Rhodies,
>>> 
>>> I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.
>>> 
>>> I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
>>> sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
>>> enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent
>> over
>>> the time I was on this list.
>>> 
>>> I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there is
>> a
>>> very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There is a
>>> similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage just
>>> very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I
>> had
>>> noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
>>> directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should be
>>> concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit
>> too
>>> much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
>>> hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for your
>>> help and perspective.
>>> 
>>> Matt Wilson
>>> Hornblower II
>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 26 10:57:29 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 10:57:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <E1sMU5R-00000000KLh-2gYh@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Hi Matt,
  On my '86 Rhodes there is a compression post at the end of the wall  to the bow of the galley counter.  If your boat has the fully enclosed head (swell head) I would expect to find such a post to the left of the door ( as you're entering the head) perhaps hidden in the wall). I suppose they might have hidden an I- beam in the roof, but I expect the post is still there somewhere.
If not, then as Roger said, you have a problem (or an opportunity to install a compression post).

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 26 11:18:44 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 15:18:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42887CFAE311FF8D7B097E3F80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Ken,

Have you managed to source the 2 sockets that go on the back-stays?  The traveler bar mounts into these two sockets and is held in place by quick release pins.

Roger Pihlaja
Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2024, at 10:18?AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>
> ?Ken,
>
> My traveller bar is 60" long.
> My main sheet is 33' long.
> My jib sheet  (one line for both port & starboard) is 60' long.
>
> Both sheets are 3/8" double braided.
> All items are original as supplied by General Boats.
>
> You seem to be making excellent progress in your restoration.  Thanks for bringing an old Rhodes 22 back to life, and for joining our community.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
>> On 2024-06-20, at 10:47:38 EDT, Kenwood _ wrote:
>>
>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing. I've
>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he was.
>> He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over the
>> internet.
>>
>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast
>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i have. My
>> boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't come with a
>> traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for these pieces? Or
>> perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive already purchased and
>> begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a roller type with a set of
>> blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking pin style.
>>
>> Thanks so much.
>>
>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
>>
>> <a
>> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg"
>> target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg</a>
>>
>> <a
>> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg"
>> target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg</a>
>>
>
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 11:19:51 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 10:19:51 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42888B24059FD3B28EA9B9BB80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888B24059FD3B28EA9B9BB80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCsdq04=NEOAdHGBc_cKVO=ukBuqr1GmuU3gUt9xir30-A@mail.gmail.com>

Here is one that shows the area.  Those two stainless screw heads are
directly under the mast.

Thanks for your help,
Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Matt,
>
> My boat has a sliding curtain, not a door.  The compression post would
> need to run from the ceiling down to the sole of the bilge.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 26, 2024, at 10:11?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?My boat is a 1990. Perhaps someone else can comment on that vintage.  I
> > believe it has a normal interior.
> > Roger, does your post get in the way of the bathroom door?  Would it be
> as
> > simple as adding one as long as it has a solid footing down to the hull?
> >
> > Matt
> >
> >> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Matt,
> >>
> >> My 1978 Rhodes has a stout compression post in the cabin under the mast.
> >> I can?t speak about this feature re newer boats.  Is your cabin interior
> >> custom?  Unless your cabin roof is very thick, it would take something
> like
> >> a steel I-beam spanning the cabin to withstand the compression load from
> >> the mast without a compression post.  If you have a stud finder, you
> should
> >> be able determine if there is a steel I-beam built into your cabin roof.
> >> If it?s not there; then, you have a problem.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Jun 26, 2024, at 8:52?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Hello Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.
> >>>
> >>> I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
> >>> sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
> >>> enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent
> >> over
> >>> the time I was on this list.
> >>>
> >>> I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there
> is
> >> a
> >>> very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There
> is a
> >>> similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage
> just
> >>> very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I
> >> had
> >>> noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
> >>> directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should
> be
> >>> concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit
> >> too
> >>> much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
> >>> hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for
> your
> >>> help and perspective.
> >>>
> >>> Matt Wilson
> >>> Hornblower II
> >>> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>
>
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 26 11:26:25 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 11:26:25 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin with "swell head"


Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

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From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Jun 26 11:30:36 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 11:30:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42887CFAE311FF8D7B097E3F80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42887CFAE311FF8D7B097E3F80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <7BD7EC7A-8714-42F2-B779-63A0ED528F28@stottarchitecture.com>

Ken, I made drawings for the fittings that attache the traveller bar  to the back stays and hold the traveller in place. I had them made out of Delrin at a machine shop and they make it easy with a Fastpin, to remove either one side, or the whole traveler from the backstay.  This is especially helpful when any space is need in the back of the boat for running the outboard, boarding and debarking from the ladder or even entertaining.  
If you, or anyone need those parts, let me know and I?ll try to  dig them up. 
Ric 
Dadventure 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 26, 2024, at 11:18 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Ken,
> 
> Have you managed to source the 2 sockets that go on the back-stays?  The traveler bar mounts into these two sockets and is held in place by quick release pins.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 26, 2024, at 10:18?AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Ken,
>> 
>> My traveller bar is 60" long.
>> My main sheet is 33' long.
>> My jib sheet  (one line for both port & starboard) is 60' long.
>> 
>> Both sheets are 3/8" double braided.
>> All items are original as supplied by General Boats.
>> 
>> You seem to be making excellent progress in your restoration.  Thanks for bringing an old Rhodes 22 back to life, and for joining our community.
>> 
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>>> On 2024-06-20, at 10:47:38 EDT, Kenwood _ wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing. I've
>>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he was.
>>> He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over the
>>> internet.
>>> 
>>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly mast
>>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i have. My
>>> boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't come with a
>>> traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for these pieces? Or
>>> perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive already purchased and
>>> begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a roller type with a set of
>>> blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking pin style.
>>> 
>>> Thanks so much.
>>> 
>>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
>>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
>>> 
>>> <a
>>> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg"
>>> target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg</a>
>>> 
>>> <a
>>> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg"
>>> target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg</a>
>>> 
>> 
>> 


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 12:00:23 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 11:00:23 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>

But that is not directly under the mast is it?

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin with
> "swell head"
>
>
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 12:48:35 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 12:48:35 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNwBfsCxmow9oO7LcqMdLtormNyQxi5VzCOqfkfE4iM+w@mail.gmail.com>

Peter,

I am re-doing my backstays. How far up the backstays from the chsinplate
pin is the traveller?

Thanks.
Todd T.

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024, 10:26 AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Ken,
>
> My traveller bar is 60" long.
> My main sheet is 33' long.
> My jib sheet  (one line for both port & starboard) is 60' long.
>
> Both sheets are 3/8" double braided.
> All items are original as supplied by General Boats.
>
> You seem to be making excellent progress in your restoration.  Thanks for
> bringing an old Rhodes 22 back to life, and for joining our community.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2024-06-20, at 10:47:38 EDT, Kenwood _ wrote:
> >
> > Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing.
> I've
> > obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he
> was.
> > He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over
> the
> > internet.
> >
> > Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly
> mast
> > fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
> have. My
> > boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
> come with a
> > traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for these
> pieces? Or
> > perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive already purchased
> and
> > begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a roller type with a
> set of
> > blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking pin style.
> >
> > Thanks so much.
> >
> > [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg"
>
> > target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg"
>
> > target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg</a>
> >
>
>
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 12:50:00 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 11:50:00 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>

Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you referenced
is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should I
do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because the
door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the problem?

Many thanks all,
Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
>> with "swell head"
>>
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
>> >
>>
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Jun 26 12:54:57 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 12:54:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>

The compression post on the R22 is not directly under the mast - but it?s close enough to do the job because the cabin top is made of thick plywood. 
From y experience wit h da list, the bottom of the compression post is susceptible to rot. 
Check the bottom of your post. 
Ric 
Dadventure 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 26, 2024, at 12:50 PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you referenced
> is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
> cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should I
> do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because the
> door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the problem?
> 
> Many thanks all,
> Matt
> 
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>> 
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>>> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
>>> with "swell head"
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>> 
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Jun 26 13:17:29 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 13:17:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>

Unfortunately, rot is likely to be present under the floor, below the compression post. Check the stringers near the post as they tend to remain moist if your bilge holds rain water. There are many emails in the archives regarding replacing the under cabin sole structure. Temporarily, you maybe able to place some wood blocks and a piece of plywood under the post to enable the proper transfer of force to the hull.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:55 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

The compression post on the R22 is not directly under the mast - but it?s close enough to do the job because the cabin top is made of thick plywood. 
>From y experience wit h da list, the bottom of the compression post is susceptible to rot. 
Check the bottom of your post. 
Ric 
Dadventure 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 13:22:06 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 12:22:06 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
 <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvOfEyLoeppAEgBQXHk1HRUxfUaB_yaRezeAwX981KJQw@mail.gmail.com>

Do you think I can get through the season as is?

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:17?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Unfortunately, rot is likely to be present under the floor, below the
> compression post. Check the stringers near the post as they tend to remain
> moist if your bilge holds rain water. There are many emails in the archives
> regarding replacing the under cabin sole structure. Temporarily, you maybe
> able to place some wood blocks and a piece of plywood under the post to
> enable the proper transfer of force to the hull.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Ric
> Stott
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:55 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>
> The compression post on the R22 is not directly under the mast - but it?s
> close enough to do the job because the cabin top is made of thick plywood.
> From y experience wit h da list, the bottom of the compression post is
> susceptible to rot.
> Check the bottom of your post.
> Ric
> Dadventure
>
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
>
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 26 13:24:37 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 13:24:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <E1sMWNp-00000002UaC-17Gd@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

My boat is an '86 with a slightly different cabin layout, but the post I referenced in the photo is in approximately the same location as my compression post that is under the mast tabernacle.  Not having that cabin configuration I can't guarantee anything, but if there is no other vertical support in that immediate vicinity I'd wager that's it.  While it's possible some other mast support was engineered, I think it's likely someone would have mentioned it by now.  Might be worth looking to see if there's a good fit at the roof and foot of that post, perhaps a shim was removed ( or should be installed).

Peter

Ps.  Some photos of your boat including the foot of the mast where the damage is could go a long way towards a diagnosis 

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 13:26:20 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 12:26:20 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvOfEyLoeppAEgBQXHk1HRUxfUaB_yaRezeAwX981KJQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
 <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>
 <CANbEFCvOfEyLoeppAEgBQXHk1HRUxfUaB_yaRezeAwX981KJQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvvyOJEtFbRLfuPv4AxLMruFi6quOGo2MqsWf0+F2RPBw@mail.gmail.com>

Also, the sag is in the roof. Where the post is seems to be holding up
higher than that spot on the roof.  If the bottom of the post is rotting
wouldn?t the whole roof be sagging?  The sag is not that large.  Maybe
within 12? or so from side to side. Still seems like rot to you all?

Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:22?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Do you think I can get through the season as is?
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:17?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately, rot is likely to be present under the floor, below the
>> compression post. Check the stringers near the post as they tend to remain
>> moist if your bilge holds rain water. There are many emails in the archives
>> regarding replacing the under cabin sole structure. Temporarily, you maybe
>> able to place some wood blocks and a piece of plywood under the post to
>> enable the proper transfer of force to the hull.
>>
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> Ric Stott
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:55 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>
>> The compression post on the R22 is not directly under the mast - but it?s
>> close enough to do the job because the cabin top is made of thick plywood.
>> From y experience wit h da list, the bottom of the compression post is
>> susceptible to rot.
>> Check the bottom of your post.
>> Ric
>> Dadventure
>>
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> O -631-283-1777
>> C- 516-965-3164
>>
>>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 13:40:01 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 12:40:01 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvvyOJEtFbRLfuPv4AxLMruFi6quOGo2MqsWf0+F2RPBw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
 <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>
 <CANbEFCvOfEyLoeppAEgBQXHk1HRUxfUaB_yaRezeAwX981KJQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvvyOJEtFbRLfuPv4AxLMruFi6quOGo2MqsWf0+F2RPBw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCthbdCXYbrfwqWiYtaw_LPkDH7yPZ14-mU3=WsKbJeZ9g@mail.gmail.com>

I can get more pictures tomorrow. Thank you

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:26?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Also, the sag is in the roof. Where the post is seems to be holding up
> higher than that spot on the roof.  If the bottom of the post is rotting
> wouldn?t the whole roof be sagging?  The sag is not that large.  Maybe
> within 12? or so from side to side. Still seems like rot to you all?
>
> Matt
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:22?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Do you think I can get through the season as is?
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:17?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Unfortunately, rot is likely to be present under the floor, below the
>>> compression post. Check the stringers near the post as they tend to remain
>>> moist if your bilge holds rain water. There are many emails in the archives
>>> regarding replacing the under cabin sole structure. Temporarily, you maybe
>>> able to place some wood blocks and a piece of plywood under the post to
>>> enable the proper transfer of force to the hull.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>> Ric Stott
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:55 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>>
>>> The compression post on the R22 is not directly under the mast - but
>>> it?s close enough to do the job because the cabin top is made of thick
>>> plywood.
>>> From y experience wit h da list, the bottom of the compression post is
>>> susceptible to rot.
>>> Check the bottom of your post.
>>> Ric
>>> Dadventure
>>>
>>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>>> O -631-283-1777
>>> C- 516-965-3164
>>>
>>>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Jun 26 13:48:28 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 13:48:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvvyOJEtFbRLfuPv4AxLMruFi6quOGo2MqsWf0+F2RPBw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
 <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>
 <CANbEFCvOfEyLoeppAEgBQXHk1HRUxfUaB_yaRezeAwX981KJQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvvyOJEtFbRLfuPv4AxLMruFi6quOGo2MqsWf0+F2RPBw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001901dac7f1$0dd79950$2986cbf0$@ebsmed.com>

Maybe a previous owner (if there was one) "repaired" the floor or stringers and lifted the compression post too high. It may have also happened if the hull was not supported properly during the off-season. It is meant to rest on the trailer bunks or equivalent. When was the deformity first noticed?

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 1:26 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

Also, the sag is in the roof. Where the post is seems to be holding up higher than that spot on the roof.  If the bottom of the post is rotting wouldn?t the whole roof be sagging?  The sag is not that large.  Maybe within 12? or so from side to side. Still seems like rot to you all?

Matt



From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 13:55:51 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 12:55:51 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <001901dac7f1$0dd79950$2986cbf0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E8ED8C1-3B4B-4C17-9BEF-419AD898346A@stottarchitecture.com>
 <000a01dac7ec$b9c118e0$2d434aa0$@ebsmed.com>
 <CANbEFCvOfEyLoeppAEgBQXHk1HRUxfUaB_yaRezeAwX981KJQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvvyOJEtFbRLfuPv4AxLMruFi6quOGo2MqsWf0+F2RPBw@mail.gmail.com>
 <001901dac7f1$0dd79950$2986cbf0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuExV9cibOrPM5mh70O1GHcv+hVwDpEppvM3WPN6qp_rg@mail.gmail.com>

Just today but I use it primarily as a day sailer so don?t really spend
much time laying down and looking at the ceiling. ;)

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 12:48?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Maybe a previous owner (if there was one) "repaired" the floor or
> stringers and lifted the compression post too high. It may have also
> happened if the hull was not supported properly during the off-season. It
> is meant to rest on the trailer bunks or equivalent. When was the deformity
> first noticed?
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Matt Wilson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 1:26 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>
> Also, the sag is in the roof. Where the post is seems to be holding up
> higher than that spot on the roof.  If the bottom of the post is rotting
> wouldn?t the whole roof be sagging?  The sag is not that large.  Maybe
> within 12? or so from side to side. Still seems like rot to you all?
>
> Matt
>
>
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Jun 26 14:32:53 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 14:32:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
Message-ID: <E1sMXRt-00000003U3p-3uGX@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Todd,

I measure the distance from the center of the backstay 'cup' for the traveler to the hole at the end of the stay itself as being pretty precisely 15".  Additional hardware I've got between the end of the stay and the chainplate adds 3".  Hopefully, there's a picture attached.

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-26, at 12:48:35 EDT, Todd Tavares wrote:
>
> Peter,
> 
> I am re-doing my backstays. How far up the backstays from the chsinplate pin is 
> the traveller? 
> 
> Thanks.
> Todd T.
> 
> 


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From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Jun 26 14:50:44 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 14:50:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <E1sMXRt-00000003U3p-3uGX@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMXRt-00000003U3p-3uGX@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <B80CD437-4195-4CBF-8059-8CBC30D81415@stottarchitecture.com>

Here is a drawing of the Traveller End.
I worked on this design with Stan. 
Once installed, you need to drill a hole all the way through the SS traveller bar AND through  narrow section while it is in place for  a 1/4? fast-pin. 
Tie the pin to the traveller or the backstay - 
That way, you can ease the tension on the backstay, pull the pin and swing the traveller out of the way to one side, or take it off entirely.
It wrks great. The ability to remove the Traveller is a really nice feature. 
Ric 
Dadventure  
?
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Jun 26, 2024, at 2:32 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> Todd,
> 
> I measure the distance from the center of the backstay 'cup' for the traveler to the hole at the end of the stay itself as being pretty precisely 15".  Additional hardware I've got between the end of the stay and the chainplate adds 3".  Hopefully, there's a picture attached.
> 
> --Peter
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-06-26, at 12:48:35 EDT, Todd Tavares wrote:
>> 
>> Peter,
>> 
>> I am re-doing my backstays. How far up the backstays from the chsinplate pin is 
>> the traveller? 
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> Todd T.
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 26 15:27:18 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 19:27:18 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <E1sMU5R-00000000KLh-2gYh@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMU5R-00000000KLh-2gYh@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288440C0D64FEB58CE8F05F80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

The attached photo shows my mast compression post in the extreme upper left corner of the image.  It runs from the cabin roof to the sole of the bilge (NOT THE CABIN SOLE).  It is directly under the mast.

[http://www.rhodes22.org/pics/Galley-3.jpg]

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI


________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 10:57 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

Hi Matt,
  On my '86 Rhodes there is a compression post at the end of the wall  to the bow of the galley counter.  If your boat has the fully enclosed head (swell head) I would expect to find such a post to the left of the door ( as you're entering the head) perhaps hidden in the wall). I suppose they might have hidden an I- beam in the roof, but I expect the post is still there somewhere.
If not, then as Roger said, you have a problem (or an opportunity to install a compression post).

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 15:36:51 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 19:36:51 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCsdq04=NEOAdHGBc_cKVO=ukBuqr1GmuU3gUt9xir30-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCupph+7cYv2sP=jTVeYuD7b+SoBe48Jn=sx8hragmg5tQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C4C9F365EA93E2B1715B80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCvMDhkRDZd34Nw8tAbDcQC2hXmX7RG19hCZkfhktoZg0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888B24059FD3B28EA9B9BB80D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCsdq04=NEOAdHGBc_cKVO=ukBuqr1GmuU3gUt9xir30-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB81533F8C6A24BD41EFF94CE2F5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Matt: I can't imagine the Rhodes 22 without a compression post. When I gutted and rebuilt my boat,  I removed the compression post while I rebuilt the base under the post which was compressing - something that appears to be fairly common in older Rhodes. Even though I didn't actually use the boat while the post was removed, I was surprised to see how much the deck seemed to settle, making it quite difficult to get the post back in place once the base was rebuilt.
My theory is, but could easily be very wrong, is that as the deck drops the sides of the boat get pushed out marginally. Once the boat spreads, there is a lot of resistance to bringing it back into proper shape.

If you decide to install a new compression post, you might want to use a jack of some while to raise the deck very gradually. I would be inclined to do this over a period of weeks - preferable during hot temperatures. You might be able to raise it faster but it would be wise to monitor the process carefully.

All that said, it is not a particularly difficult fix. Just make sure that the base under the post is solid.



Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 11:19 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

Here is one that shows the area.  Those two stainless screw heads are
directly under the mast.

Thanks for your help,
Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Matt,
>
> My boat has a sliding curtain, not a door.  The compression post would
> need to run from the ceiling down to the sole of the bilge.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 26, 2024, at 10:11?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?My boat is a 1990. Perhaps someone else can comment on that vintage.  I
> > believe it has a normal interior.
> > Roger, does your post get in the way of the bathroom door?  Would it be
> as
> > simple as adding one as long as it has a solid footing down to the hull?
> >
> > Matt
> >
> >> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:01?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Matt,
> >>
> >> My 1978 Rhodes has a stout compression post in the cabin under the mast.
> >> I can?t speak about this feature re newer boats.  Is your cabin interior
> >> custom?  Unless your cabin roof is very thick, it would take something
> like
> >> a steel I-beam spanning the cabin to withstand the compression load from
> >> the mast without a compression post.  If you have a stud finder, you
> should
> >> be able determine if there is a steel I-beam built into your cabin roof.
> >> If it?s not there; then, you have a problem.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Jun 26, 2024, at 8:52?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Hello Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> I hope you are all enjoying your summer and excursions.
> >>>
> >>> I received word of Stan?s passing at the tail end of a wonderful sunset
> >>> sail with my daughter and her fianc?.  How apropos!  Never met Stan but
> >>> enjoyed seeing his personality and helpfulness via the emails he sent
> >> over
> >>> the time I was on this list.
> >>>
> >>> I just spent the first night aboard and happened to notice that there
> is
> >> a
> >>> very slight bowing/sagging in the ceiling below the mast step. There
> is a
> >>> similar dip in the deck on top. There is no other evidence of damage
> just
> >>> very slight hairline cracks on the forward corners of the mast step.  I
> >> had
> >>> noticed previously and been surprised by the fact that there is nothing
> >>> directly under the mast like in most boats. Is this something I should
> be
> >>> concerned about? Is the deck failing? Were the shrouds tightened a bit
> >> too
> >>> much at some point. I could try to send a few pictures, but it?s pretty
> >>> hard to see. But let me know if that would be helpful. thank you for
> your
> >>> help and perspective.
> >>>
> >>> Matt Wilson
> >>> Hornblower II
> >>> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>
>
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From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 15:48:42 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 19:48:42 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid right down to the hull.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you referenced
is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should I
do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because the
door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the problem?

Many thanks all,
Matt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
>> with "swell head"
>>
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>
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>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Jun 26 16:04:42 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 20:04:42 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNwBfsCxmow9oO7LcqMdLtormNyQxi5VzCOqfkfE4iM+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMTTU-0000000HJsg-0RIQ@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CAB-twMNwBfsCxmow9oO7LcqMdLtormNyQxi5VzCOqfkfE4iM+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428802617EF7CBD6EA1EC99580D62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi All,

Before you buy your new mainsheet blocks, consider the M/N 332 mainsheet system from Harken.  The attached .pdf file is the Harken data sheet.  With the 332 system, you have your choice of 3:1 mechanical advantage for trimming speed in light air or 6:1 power for heavy air.  As you can see from the attached drawing, you have 2 mainsheet tails.  Pull on either one for 6:1 mechanical advantage.  Pull on both together of them for 3:1.  I joined the 2 tails together with a long splice that will run thru the blocks.  Now, I just have one long loop of a mainsheet that can't get tangled.

I have had this mainsheet system on my boat for ~25 years.  It's been totally bulletproof.  If you have any thoughts re racing your boat, this is the mainsheet system to have.  The 6:1 mechanical advantage gives very fine control for mainsheet trimming.  It should be reassuring for any weaker members of your crew that they will always be able to control the mainsail.  My wife loves it and my sons liked it too when they were kids.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI


________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:48 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs

Peter,

I am re-doing my backstays. How far up the backstays from the chsinplate
pin is the traveller?

Thanks.
Todd T.

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024, 10:26 AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Ken,
>
> My traveller bar is 60" long.
> My main sheet is 33' long.
> My jib sheet  (one line for both port & starboard) is 60' long.
>
> Both sheets are 3/8" double braided.
> All items are original as supplied by General Boats.
>
> You seem to be making excellent progress in your restoration.  Thanks for
> bringing an old Rhodes 22 back to life, and for joining our community.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2024-06-20, at 10:47:38 EDT, Kenwood _ wrote:
> >
> > Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans passing.
> I've
> > obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core centerpiece he
> was.
> > He's mentioned in every piece of literature and documentation all over
> the
> > internet.
> >
> > Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat, mostly
> mast
> > fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what pieces i
> have. My
> > boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it didn't
> come with a
> > traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had dimensions/specs for these
> pieces? Or
> > perhaps know of an equivalent locking main sheet? Ive already purchased
> and
> > begun assembling a new traveler. Its going to be a roller type with a
> set of
> > blocks either end. But ive also seen the locking pin style.
> >
> > Thanks so much.
> >
> > [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240620%2F88062c7d%2Fattachment.jpg&data=05%7C02%7C%7C0255ed92001b4bd4583f08dc95ffda3a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638550173322794386%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=oiJam%2B3QLbKRL14AWMrYpwLEDz26XtOpH6eYwxZXRFo%3D&reserved=0"<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg>
>
> > target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240620%2F88062c7d%2Fattachment-0001.jpg&data=05%7C02%7C%7C0255ed92001b4bd4583f08dc95ffda3a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638550173322805938%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=F%2Fusj8xlCSB3dmMQQWbEzDMxvtTHC8ro8ZUw2VOl5BI%3D&reserved=0"<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg>
>
> > target="_blank">PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg</a>
> >
>
>
>
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From edmc18 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 18:39:47 2024
From: edmc18 at gmail.com (Ed McNamara)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 18:39:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>

I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When I
cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I think
it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part epoxy
to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or below. I
have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the head and
bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but not
yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.

Ed McNamara
s/v Scholar 88/01



On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
wrote:

> If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I
> would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid right
> down to the hull.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
> beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>
> Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you referenced
> is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
> cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should I
> do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because the
> door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
> problem?
>
> Many thanks all,
> Matt
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
> >> with "swell head"
> >>
> >>
> >> Peter
> >>
> >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >>
> >> -------------- next part --------------
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> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 184529 bytes
> >> Desc: not available
> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
> >> >
> >>
> >
>
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 21:59:35 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 20:59:35 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvZpcVb=fHfGtKncRcG8kAM083u9n2G6sqn78Jc2d0J-A@mail.gmail.com>

Hey there I was able to get out there today:
Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast is
about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
backwards.

Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag in
the ceiling below the mast



On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When I
> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I think
> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part epoxy
> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or below. I
> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the head and
> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but not
> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>
> Ed McNamara
> s/v Scholar 88/01
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I
> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid
> right
> > down to the hull.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Rhodes 22
> > Agile, 1976
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
> >
> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you referenced
> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should I
> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because
> the
> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
> > problem?
> >
> > Many thanks all,
> > Matt
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
> > >
> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >
> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
> > >> with "swell head"
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Peter
> > >>
> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> > >>
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: Polish_20240626_112420104.jpg
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 184529 bytes
> > >> Desc: not available
> > >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> >
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> >
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 22:29:21 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 21:29:21 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvPVtko7u=kXBUKdG8-YB6RVaPn2zUBbeh_jT04Xu0gvg@mail.gmail.com>

The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast is
about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
backwards


On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When I
> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I think
> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part epoxy
> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or below. I
> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the head and
> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but not
> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>
> Ed McNamara
> s/v Scholar 88/01
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I
> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid
> right
> > down to the hull.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Rhodes 22
> > Agile, 1976
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
> >
> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you referenced
> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should I
> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because
> the
> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
> > problem?
> >
> > Many thanks all,
> > Matt
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
> > >
> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >
> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
> > >> with "swell head"
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Peter
> > >>
> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> > >>
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> Name: Polish_20240626_112420104.jpg
> > >> Type: image/jpeg
> > >> Size: 184529 bytes
> > >> Desc: not available
> > >> URL: <
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 22:30:04 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 21:30:04 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvPVtko7u=kXBUKdG8-YB6RVaPn2zUBbeh_jT04Xu0gvg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvPVtko7u=kXBUKdG8-YB6RVaPn2zUBbeh_jT04Xu0gvg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuE=4D0j6OZ1ZCMW+HuEoP7hcGPnh-YZEMsLchUyhUe8A@mail.gmail.com>

Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag in
the ceiling below the mast


On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:29?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
> Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast is
> about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
> backwards
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When I
>> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
>> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I think
>> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
>> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part epoxy
>> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or below. I
>> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the head
>> and
>> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
>> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but not
>> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>>
>> Ed McNamara
>> s/v Scholar 88/01
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I
>> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid
>> right
>> > down to the hull.
>> >
>> >
>> > Graham Stewart
>> > Rhodes 22
>> > Agile, 1976
>> > ________________________________
>> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
>> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
>> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
>> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>> >
>> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you
>> referenced
>> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
>> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what should
>> I
>> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because
>> the
>> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
>> > problem?
>> >
>> > Many thanks all,
>> > Matt
>> >
>> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>> > >
>> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> > >
>> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of cabin
>> > >> with "swell head"
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >> Peter
>> > >>
>> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> > >>
>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
>> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> > >> Name: Polish_20240626_112420104.jpg
>> > >> Type: image/jpeg
>> > >> Size: 184529 bytes
>> > >> Desc: not available
>> > >> URL: <
>> > >>
>> >
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
>> > >> >
>> > >>
>> > >
>> >
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> Name: image_67201537.JPG
>> Type: image/heic
>> Size: 2300717 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/71e6e104/attachment.bin
>> >
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>> >
>>
>
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 22:31:35 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 21:31:35 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuE=4D0j6OZ1ZCMW+HuEoP7hcGPnh-YZEMsLchUyhUe8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvPVtko7u=kXBUKdG8-YB6RVaPn2zUBbeh_jT04Xu0gvg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuE=4D0j6OZ1ZCMW+HuEoP7hcGPnh-YZEMsLchUyhUe8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvde2SJHerzfOG_Gt2H4Gg3Z+3u8bjetL_3vmGEpNnz+g@mail.gmail.com>

here are the cracks at the front corners of the tabernacle/step looking aft


On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:30?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag in
> the ceiling below the mast
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:29?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
>> Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast is
>> about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
>> backwards
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When I
>>> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
>>> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I think
>>> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
>>> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part epoxy
>>> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or below. I
>>> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the head
>>> and
>>> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
>>> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but
>>> not
>>> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>>>
>>> Ed McNamara
>>> s/v Scholar 88/01
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I
>>> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid
>>> right
>>> > down to the hull.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Graham Stewart
>>> > Rhodes 22
>>> > Agile, 1976
>>> > ________________________________
>>> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
>>> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
>>> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
>>> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>> >
>>> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you
>>> referenced
>>> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and my
>>> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what
>>> should I
>>> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head because
>>> the
>>> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
>>> > problem?
>>> >
>>> > Many thanks all,
>>> > Matt
>>> >
>>> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> > wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>>> > >
>>> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>>> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> > >
>>> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of
>>> cabin
>>> > >> with "swell head"
>>> > >>
>>> > >>
>>> > >> Peter
>>> > >>
>>> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>> > >>
>>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
>>> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> > >> Name: Polish_20240626_112420104.jpg
>>> > >> Type: image/jpeg
>>> > >> Size: 184529 bytes
>>> > >> Desc: not available
>>> > >> URL: <
>>> > >>
>>> >
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
>>> > >> >
>>> > >>
>>> > >
>>> >
>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>> >
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>>> >
>>>
>>
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 22:32:28 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 21:32:28 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvde2SJHerzfOG_Gt2H4Gg3Z+3u8bjetL_3vmGEpNnz+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvPVtko7u=kXBUKdG8-YB6RVaPn2zUBbeh_jT04Xu0gvg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuE=4D0j6OZ1ZCMW+HuEoP7hcGPnh-YZEMsLchUyhUe8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvde2SJHerzfOG_Gt2H4Gg3Z+3u8bjetL_3vmGEpNnz+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuk+xNnz-Hq-tP-webACSM9QJY+6kRJEOW_oxgYp4q7YA@mail.gmail.com>

Here is the gap below the aft corner of the hatch next to the tabernacle.
Obviously sagging.

The boat was stored outside significantly before I owned it. I was a newbie
and didn?t notice this before.

Obviously, it needs to be short up. If I were to put a block on the cabin
soul just outside the head, could I put in a temporary post to get through
the sailing season? If I shim it in there really solid? Do you think that
would be a solid enough to be safe temporarily? What would you recommend as
the long-term fix, hopefully this is clearer having seen all of these
pictures. Thank you so much for your help guys!

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:31?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> here are the cracks at the front corners of the tabernacle/step looking aft
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:30?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag in
>> the ceiling below the mast
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:29?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
>>> Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast
>>> is about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
>>> backwards
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When I
>>>> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
>>>> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I think
>>>> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
>>>> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part
>>>> epoxy
>>>> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or below.
>>>> I
>>>> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the head
>>>> and
>>>> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
>>>> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but
>>>> not
>>>> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>>>>
>>>> Ed McNamara
>>>> s/v Scholar 88/01
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then I
>>>> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is solid
>>>> right
>>>> > down to the hull.
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > Graham Stewart
>>>> > Rhodes 22
>>>> > Agile, 1976
>>>> > ________________________________
>>>> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
>>>> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
>>>> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
>>>> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>>> >
>>>> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you
>>>> referenced
>>>> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and
>>>> my
>>>> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what
>>>> should I
>>>> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head
>>>> because the
>>>> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
>>>> > problem?
>>>> >
>>>> > Many thanks all,
>>>> > Matt
>>>> >
>>>> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>> > wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>>>> > >
>>>> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>>>> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>> > >
>>>> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of
>>>> cabin
>>>> > >> with "swell head"
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> Peter
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> > >> Name: Polish_20240626_112420104.jpg
>>>> > >> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> > >> Size: 184529 bytes
>>>> > >> Desc: not available
>>>> > >> URL: <
>>>> > >>
>>>> >
>>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
>>>> > >> >
>>>> > >>
>>>> > >
>>>> >
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/71e6e104/attachment.bin
>>>> >
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>> URL: <
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>>>> >
>>>>
>>>
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Jun 26 22:36:46 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2024 21:36:46 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuk+xNnz-Hq-tP-webACSM9QJY+6kRJEOW_oxgYp4q7YA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMUXR-00000000lKD-3ZRt@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CANbEFCu1DR=Bp73b7kQger2Pvt485Mdiqn0YFeNq4gooQp1eMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCurTDTqh6aqd9+XB-FZS6scCh5ihR2WiHcMX8TPNk05FQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81530E54AB3BB4E4569C26CBF5D62@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAC-_suTxya-EkoUtF=UHWcPy4MHPX+qCVcyo2Ajmqc8gt8TSMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvPVtko7u=kXBUKdG8-YB6RVaPn2zUBbeh_jT04Xu0gvg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuE=4D0j6OZ1ZCMW+HuEoP7hcGPnh-YZEMsLchUyhUe8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCvde2SJHerzfOG_Gt2H4Gg3Z+3u8bjetL_3vmGEpNnz+g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCuk+xNnz-Hq-tP-webACSM9QJY+6kRJEOW_oxgYp4q7YA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuwWsNBGfzZq9boS-LrcBgpMKZHN8eVkTaqqO7zfwFOZQ@mail.gmail.com>

Last question, Do you think that this could have been caused by
outer shrouds being too tight?

Sorry for the scattered nature of this thread.  I didn't see an option for
picture file size on my phone when I attached them.

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:32?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

>
> Here is the gap below the aft corner of the hatch next to the tabernacle.
> Obviously sagging.
>
> The boat was stored outside significantly before I owned it. I was a
> newbie and didn?t notice this before.
>
> Obviously, it needs to be short up. If I were to put a block on the cabin
> soul just outside the head, could I put in a temporary post to get through
> the sailing season? If I shim it in there really solid? Do you think that
> would be a solid enough to be safe temporarily? What would you recommend as
> the long-term fix, hopefully this is clearer having seen all of these
> pictures. Thank you so much for your help guys!
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:31?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> here are the cracks at the front corners of the tabernacle/step looking
>> aft
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:30?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag
>>> in the ceiling below the mast
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:29?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
>>>> Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast
>>>> is about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
>>>> backwards
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When
>>>>> I
>>>>> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
>>>>> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I
>>>>> think
>>>>> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
>>>>> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part
>>>>> epoxy
>>>>> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or
>>>>> below. I
>>>>> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the
>>>>> head and
>>>>> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
>>>>> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but
>>>>> not
>>>>> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ed McNamara
>>>>> s/v Scholar 88/01
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then
>>>>> I
>>>>> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is
>>>>> solid right
>>>>> > down to the hull.
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Graham Stewart
>>>>> > Rhodes 22
>>>>> > Agile, 1976
>>>>> > ________________________________
>>>>> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
>>>>> of
>>>>> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
>>>>> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
>>>>> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
>>>>> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you
>>>>> referenced
>>>>> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and
>>>>> my
>>>>> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what
>>>>> should I
>>>>> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head
>>>>> because the
>>>>> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
>>>>> > problem?
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Many thanks all,
>>>>> > Matt
>>>>> >
>>>>> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>>> >
>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>>>>> > >
>>>>> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
>>>>> <
>>>>> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>> > >
>>>>> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of
>>>>> cabin
>>>>> > >> with "swell head"
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >> Peter
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
>>>>> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>>> > >> Name: Polish_20240626_112420104.jpg
>>>>> > >> Type: image/jpeg
>>>>> > >> Size: 184529 bytes
>>>>> > >> Desc: not available
>>>>> > >> URL: <
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> >
>>>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >
>>>>> >
>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>>> Type: image/heic
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>>>>> Desc: not available
>>>>> URL: <
>>>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/71e6e104/attachment.bin
>>>>> >
>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/71e6e104/attachment-0001.bin
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Jun 27 07:31:48 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 11:31:48 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288050873FB8E3DCF015C4E80D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Ed,

Tension in all of the standing rigging, including the outer shrouds, cause the mast to be in compression.  Check out my rig tuning procedure in the archives.  A portion of the wind loading on the sails also gets turned into mast compression.  In order to achieve the proper sail shape and prevent the mast from shifting around (pumping)  under certain conditions of wind, waves, and point of sail; all the standing rigging has to be pretty tight.  I'm sure this "correct" level of shroud tension would be more than enough to cause the damage you are observing without a mast compression post.  You've got a serious problem here, I would not sail the boat like this.  I would immediately unstep the mast, fix whatever damage you find in the cabin roof, and get a compression post in there.  This one is a safety issue.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 10:36 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

Last question, Do you think that this could have been caused by
outer shrouds being too tight?

Sorry for the scattered nature of this thread.  I didn't see an option for
picture file size on my phone when I attached them.

On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:32?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

>
> Here is the gap below the aft corner of the hatch next to the tabernacle.
> Obviously sagging.
>
> The boat was stored outside significantly before I owned it. I was a
> newbie and didn?t notice this before.
>
> Obviously, it needs to be short up. If I were to put a block on the cabin
> soul just outside the head, could I put in a temporary post to get through
> the sailing season? If I shim it in there really solid? Do you think that
> would be a solid enough to be safe temporarily? What would you recommend as
> the long-term fix, hopefully this is clearer having seen all of these
> pictures. Thank you so much for your help guys!
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:31?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> here are the cracks at the front corners of the tabernacle/step looking
>> aft
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:30?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag
>>> in the ceiling below the mast
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:29?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
>>>> Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast
>>>> is about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is tipping
>>>> backwards
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88. When
>>>>> I
>>>>> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
>>>>> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I
>>>>> think
>>>>> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
>>>>> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part
>>>>> epoxy
>>>>> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or
>>>>> below. I
>>>>> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the
>>>>> head and
>>>>> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a compression
>>>>> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in but
>>>>> not
>>>>> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ed McNamara
>>>>> s/v Scholar 88/01
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly then
>>>>> I
>>>>> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is
>>>>> solid right
>>>>> > down to the hull.
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Graham Stewart
>>>>> > Rhodes 22
>>>>> > Agile, 1976
>>>>> > ________________________________
>>>>> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
>>>>> of
>>>>> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>>>>> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
>>>>> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
>>>>> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
>>>>> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you
>>>>> referenced
>>>>> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up and
>>>>> my
>>>>> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what
>>>>> should I
>>>>> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head
>>>>> because the
>>>>> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
>>>>> > problem?
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Many thanks all,
>>>>> > Matt
>>>>> >
>>>>> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com
>>>>> >
>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
>>>>> > >
>>>>> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
>>>>> <
>>>>> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>> > >
>>>>> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of
>>>>> cabin
>>>>> > >> with "swell head"
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >> Peter
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>>> > >> URL: <
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> >
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>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >>
>>>>> > >
>>>>> >
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>>>>> >
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>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Jun 27 07:44:29 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 11:44:29 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT7xZ=hrQdLPXv7h1K2oc0ip85y4LjJh=Li81iKP3t0B4g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1CJBZMxCFhSW6JGwh9czJ0iPjDzFJVgFVN4r_-qMefnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMPFi+6awhAjJkx0cA7daRdqeh8_B_H5pZPFiHeCEdA9Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT3chSJLaDkeTCai+R50Q5qYiuK+x7am2ZhP4=cs59EfvA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92DADBF0-E538-488B-AB1A-87F52A714A75@gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT2xJd-GeP8T8o8wFT1yPXXXprJuCJMxZgDfMgV0=69=vw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADQNfMDH_oyOqk8Tn4UEQZ=R3Je6nOKNnkyqyOX_CxYAhXaTow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABvjUT0W1ni7WzJ34XrvC17M9KBeHcv_MtBH4s_x506P-eRNMw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT7xZ=hrQdLPXv7h1K2oc0ip85y4LjJh=Li81iKP3t0B4g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428825C6B330613ED21CEBB580D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

So, how big is this CNC machine?  Maximum dimensions of parts that can be produced?  hp?  What materials can you work with?  Do you also have the tool crib full of cutters, or would we have to supply you with both the material and the cutting tools?  When purchasing the cutting tools, what taper does your chuck require?  What programming language?  Do you prefer your mechanical drawings with dimensions all referenced to a common datum?

Welcome aboard!  I'm perfectly willing to work with you.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2024 10:22 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Sheet Dimensions and Specs

I, for one, would be very interested to see examples of how you use the CNC
to make boat parts.

Graham Stewart



On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 7:17 PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Oh I'm totally fine making parts for people! Especially if it goes both
> ways~ I really could use some dimensions and specifications so I know
> like.. what parts to make :3
>
> On Sat, Jun 22, 2024, 6:04?PM Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > He meant everyone might ask you to make something and there?s a bit of
> > jealousy. It?sa good thing. ?
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 6:00?PM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > ?
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 22, 2024 at 5:52?PM Frank Goldsmith <
> goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > I think Todd was joshing with you.
> > > >
> > > > Frank
> > > >
> > > > > On Jun 22, 2024, at 5:34?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Why? I don't understand sorry. I'm just trying to be polite and
> > engage
> > > > with
> > > > > other rhodes owners :c this is my first big boat project and I
> don't
> > > > wanna
> > > > > step on toes or do something dangerous
> > > > >
> > > > > On Fri, Jun 21, 2024 at 8:23?AM Todd Tavares <
> tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Kenwood,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> You know you screwed up right?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> You shouldn't have let it us know you have a CNC.  ?
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Todd T.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On Thu, Jun 20, 2024, 10:47 AM Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> Hello all. Just wanted to say, its so sad to hear about stans
> > > passing.
> > > > >> I've
> > > > >>> obviously never met him, but its clear how much of a core
> > centerpiece
> > > > he
> > > > >>> was. He's mentioned in every piece of literature and
> documentation
> > > all
> > > > >> over
> > > > >>> the internet.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Im in the process of machining several new parts for my boat,
> > mostly
> > > > mast
> > > > >>> fittings, broken parts, etc. But im mostly just copying what
> > pieces i
> > > > >> have.
> > > > >>> My boat didn't come with sheets (for the jib or the main) and it
> > > didn't
> > > > >>> come with a traveler. I was wondering.. if anyone had
> > > dimensions/specs
> > > > >> for
> > > > >>> these pieces? Or perhaps know of an equivalent locking main
> sheet?
> > > Ive
> > > > >>> already purchased and begun assembling a new traveler. Its going
> to
> > > be
> > > > a
> > > > >>> roller type with a set of blocks either end. But ive also seen
> the
> > > > >> locking
> > > > >>> pin style.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Thanks so much.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174724313.jpg]
> > > > >>> [image: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg]
> > > > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > > > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> > > > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > > > >>> Size: 3221948 bytes
> > > > >>> Desc: not available
> > > > >>> URL: <
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240620%2F88062c7d%2Fattachment.jpg&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ced64dd3bcdc448ebb02908dc93900384%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638547493946146910%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=ob659ULQ5jg4A1jePJCspqSdLhGlCVL8yaOedt5E2dA%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment.jpg>
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>> -------------- next part --------------
> > > > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > >>> Name: PXL_20240617_174522017.jpg
> > > > >>> Type: image/jpeg
> > > > >>> Size: 2581451 bytes
> > > > >>> Desc: not available
> > > > >>> URL: <
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240620%2F88062c7d%2Fattachment-0001.jpg&data=05%7C02%7C%7Ced64dd3bcdc448ebb02908dc93900384%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638547493946156266%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=xep0yvkP1bFUjjkCtXsIBqP%2B4qo3G%2BoxuvoLFZYpuuw%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240620/88062c7d/attachment-0001.jpg>
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Jun 27 08:03:19 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 07:03:19 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288050873FB8E3DCF015C4E80D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB4288050873FB8E3DCF015C4E80D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuoy8bb46EKNERMOg+hQJq1T8e11WZtR+=8fg54q=rghw@mail.gmail.com>

So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?

Matt

On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 6:31?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Ed,
>
> Tension in all of the standing rigging, including the outer shrouds, cause
> the mast to be in compression.  Check out my rig tuning procedure in the
> archives.  A portion of the wind loading on the sails also gets turned into
> mast compression.  In order to achieve the proper sail shape and prevent
> the mast from shifting around (pumping)  under certain conditions of wind,
> waves, and point of sail; all the standing rigging has to be pretty tight.
> I'm sure this "correct" level of shroud tension would be more than enough
> to cause the damage you are observing without a mast compression post.
> You've got a serious problem here, I would not sail the boat like this.  I
> would immediately unstep the mast, fix whatever damage you find in the
> cabin roof, and get a compression post in there.  This one is a safety
> issue.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 10:36 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>
> Last question, Do you think that this could have been caused by
> outer shrouds being too tight?
>
> Sorry for the scattered nature of this thread.  I didn't see an option for
> picture file size on my phone when I attached them.
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:32?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> > Here is the gap below the aft corner of the hatch next to the tabernacle.
> > Obviously sagging.
> >
> > The boat was stored outside significantly before I owned it. I was a
> > newbie and didn?t notice this before.
> >
> > Obviously, it needs to be short up. If I were to put a block on the cabin
> > soul just outside the head, could I put in a temporary post to get
> through
> > the sailing season? If I shim it in there really solid? Do you think that
> > would be a solid enough to be safe temporarily? What would you recommend
> as
> > the long-term fix, hopefully this is clearer having seen all of these
> > pictures. Thank you so much for your help guys!
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:31?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> here are the cracks at the front corners of the tabernacle/step looking
> >> aft
> >>
> >>
> >> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:30?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Here is a picture of the same area from the side.  You can see the sag
> >>> in the ceiling below the mast
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 9:29?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> The files are too big so I will send them separately. Sorry about that
> >>>> Here is a picture looking forward.  The ceiling below base of the mast
> >>>> is about 1/2? lower than the top of the ?post?. Like the mast is
> tipping
> >>>> backwards
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 5:46?PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> I recently discovered a small crack below my mast step of my ?88.
> When
> >>>>> I
> >>>>> cut into the step I found significant rot of the underlying plywood.
> >>>>> I ended up cutting out all of the plywood under the raised step (I
> >>>>> think
> >>>>> it?s something like 8? wide by 11? long).
> >>>>> I used a combination of marine grade plywood and West System 2 part
> >>>>> epoxy
> >>>>> to repair it. I saw, in my case, no evidence of sagging above or
> >>>>> below. I
> >>>>> have the athwart-ships bulkhead separating the main cabin from the
> >>>>> head and
> >>>>> bow. It appeared to me that the edge of that bulkhead was a
> compression
> >>>>> post. Photos show the cleaned out area and then the area filled in
> but
> >>>>> not
> >>>>> yet pointed. A few months of sailing later?So far, so good.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ed McNamara
> >>>>> s/v Scholar 88/01
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 4:06?PM Graham Stewart <
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> > If you have a post after all- even if it is off center slightly
> then
> >>>>> I
> >>>>> > would be checking out what is below the post to make sure it is
> >>>>> solid right
> >>>>> > down to the hull.
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> > Graham Stewart
> >>>>> > Rhodes 22
> >>>>> > Agile, 1976
> >>>>> > ________________________________
> >>>>> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> >>>>> of
> >>>>> > Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> >>>>> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2024 12:50 PM
> >>>>> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; peter
> >>>>> > beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
> >>>>> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> > Just to clarify, this picture looks like mine and the post you
> >>>>> referenced
> >>>>> > is not directly h set the mast.  So if that is the normal set up
> and
> >>>>> my
> >>>>> > cabin roof is slightly sagging, what could be the cause and what
> >>>>> should I
> >>>>> > do to remedy this?   I like the idea of a curtain for the head
> >>>>> because the
> >>>>> > door is in the way. Perhaps adding an additional post would fix the
> >>>>> > problem?
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> > Many thanks all,
> >>>>> > Matt
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 11:00?AM Matt Wilson <
> mwhornblower at gmail.com
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> > wrote:
> >>>>> >
> >>>>> > > But that is not directly under the mast is it?
> >>>>> > >
> >>>>> > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2024 at 10:26?AM peter beckerman via
> Rhodes22-list
> >>>>> <
> >>>>> > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>>>> > >
> >>>>> > >> The arrow points to the compression post on the attached pic of
> >>>>> cabin
> >>>>> > >> with "swell head"
> >>>>> > >>
> >>>>> > >>
> >>>>> > >> Peter
> >>>>> > >>
> >>>>> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >>>>> > >>
> >>>>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> >>>>> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> >>>>> > >>
> >>>>> >
> >>>>>
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> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/b9fb7677/attachment.jpg
> >
> >>>>> > >> >
> >>>>> > >>
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> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/71e6e104/attachment.bin
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> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/71e6e104/attachment-0001.bin
> >
> >>>>> >
> >>>>>
> >>>>
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> <
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> >>
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> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240626/4e98fda6/attachment-0003.jpe
> >>
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Jun 27 09:08:34 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 09:08:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of it.  I've reached some conclusions:

1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.

2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.

3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else with a 'swell head' layout can confirm.

4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way too far forward for my liking).

5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is clearly failing on Matt's boat.

6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the compression post is.

7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.

So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend like that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor should obviously be considered as well.

I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full original strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another compression post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck should be fixed too.)

That's my best guess, anyway.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)



[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
>
> So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
> 
> Matt
> 
> 


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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Jun 27 09:34:30 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 08:34:30 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCt2WyQcTffy2Yk9Wg_cB-ubA8rxiE3_89gd9s7OGNL80A@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Roger and Peter, I agree that it seems like the design should
have had more direct support.

If anyone had an image of what the base of the post should look like (how
it ties into the hull at the bottom) that would be super helpful. I will
peruse the list later but having an  idea would be great.

Thanks everyone!
Matt

On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 8:16?AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of it.
> I've reached some conclusions:
>
> 1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.
>
> 2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.
>
> 3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the
> compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the
> position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else with a
> 'swell head' layout can confirm.
>
> 4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way too
> far forward for my liking).
>
> 5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is clearly
> failing on Matt's boat.
>
> 6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in
> order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the
> compression post is.
>
> 7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.
>
> So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend like
> that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor should
> obviously be considered as well.
>
> I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full original
> strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another compression
> post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck should
> be fixed too.)
>
> That's my best guess, anyway.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
> >
> > So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
> >
> > Matt
> >
> >
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From rlowe at vt.edu  Thu Jun 27 11:45:34 2024
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 15:45:34 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I've just gotten some time to catch up and review the photos in detail.  I'm not familiar with the 'swell head'. First time I've even heard the term in reference to the Rhodes.  But I agree with Peter's third point, the compression post looks to be well forward of the mast.  A look at the mast in relation to the port and the compression post in relation to the same port shows several inches of offset and as Peter suggests, unless that load can be transferred by the decking, it's going to distort.  Just my 2 cents.

Rob
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 9:08 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?

I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of it.  I've reached some conclusions:

1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.

2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.

3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else with a 'swell head' layout can confirm.

4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way too far forward for my liking).

5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is clearly failing on Matt's boat.

6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the compression post is.

7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.

So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend like that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor should obviously be considered as well.

I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full original strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another compression post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck should be fixed too.)

That's my best guess, anyway.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)



[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
>
> So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
>
> Matt
>
>


-------------- next part --------------
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 27 12:03:28 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 12:03:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
Message-ID: <E1sMraq-000000027yx-3CKo@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

It looks to me like the deck has experienced water intrusion.  I would reduce the load and try taking some cores of the plywood to determine the existence and extent of the damage.  I certainly wouldn't sail with it as is.  A temporary fix maybe possible depending on how much damage there is.  Unfortunately I don't think there's going to be an easy fix here.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Jun 27 12:04:52 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 11:04:52 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>

I have been perusing the archives about this and not finding pictures or
links that aren't expired or broken somehow.  If anyone can post pics of
how they tied into the hull/keel below and the cabin ceiling under the mast
that would be super helpful.

I am wondering if using the cabin sole for a temporary fix is imprudent,
thoughts?  If I shim several places underneath it to spread the load?

On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 10:45?AM Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:

> I've just gotten some time to catch up and review the photos in detail.
> I'm not familiar with the 'swell head'. First time I've even heard the term
> in reference to the Rhodes.  But I agree with Peter's third point, the
> compression post looks to be well forward of the mast.  A look at the mast
> in relation to the port and the compression post in relation to the same
> port shows several inches of offset and as Peter suggests, unless that load
> can be transferred by the decking, it's going to distort.  Just my 2 cents.
>
> Rob
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 9:08 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>
> I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of it.
> I've reached some conclusions:
>
> 1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.
>
> 2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.
>
> 3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the
> compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the
> position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else with a
> 'swell head' layout can confirm.
>
> 4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way too
> far forward for my liking).
>
> 5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is clearly
> failing on Matt's boat.
>
> 6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in
> order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the
> compression post is.
>
> 7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.
>
> So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend like
> that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor should
> obviously be considered as well.
>
> I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full original
> strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another compression
> post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck should
> be fixed too.)
>
> That's my best guess, anyway.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
> >
> > So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
> >
> > Matt
> >
> >
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
> >>
>

From davidmberg at mac.com  Thu Jun 27 15:26:25 2024
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 14:26:25 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E96CC1DA-5FF8-4D1C-86DC-983BCF6D0A44@mac.com>

Matt,

I welcome you to contact me directly, and I invite you to look at my 1996/2003 Rhodes in Minneapolis. My head is set up like the recent attachment.  I think that is called the Swell Head.  I have a compression post (indicated with an arrow) between the head door and at the rear (abaft) of the partition that I circled in the drawing. My post is abaft of the mast base.

I know you and others have mentioned it, but I wouldn?t rule out overtightened shrouds as part of the problem. I have a Loos gauge you can use to check your tension.

I have Covid at the moment, but I am taking Paxlovid, and I should be happy to meet you, show you my Rhodes, and give you my Loos gauge this weekend. Then I could plan to look at your Rhodes at White Bear.

David Berg
Blue Loon (1996/2003)
Minneapolis, MN
davidmberg at mac.com


> On Jun 27, 2024, at 11:04 AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have been perusing the archives about this and not finding pictures or
> links that aren't expired or broken somehow.  If anyone can post pics of
> how they tied into the hull/keel below and the cabin ceiling under the mast
> that would be super helpful.
> 

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From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Jun 27 16:11:42 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 16:11:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Bail?
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+AGipkAep4jZaqhyD1jSQ4SpX+CSJzx6310tbG1wL7CaA@mail.gmail.com>

There was a recent post with a photo of a bail on the Mast used for raising
and lowering.  I can't seem to find that post.  I would like to know if
anyone has a part # for that and the attach point height.  I am guessing
that the GB prescribed part fits in just the right spot on the mast so
the screws don't cause any trouble on the inside.  I  have pinged Charles
also.

I really don't like using the two forward shrouds to the winch like my
newer boat is set up for.  I preferred the horizontal stabilization I got
when using the shrouds with extenders in my old setup.  I had cleats on the
sides of the Mast rather than a Bail.  It worked but it was kind of a kluge.

Patrick

From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Thu Jun 27 16:47:54 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 13:47:54 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <E96CC1DA-5FF8-4D1C-86DC-983BCF6D0A44@mac.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E96CC1DA-5FF8-4D1C-86DC-983BCF6D0A44@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuMH3O3xsCbpSqy9VJf7AKZ2c1vdb5rnNW0eDkfpDkeG_A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All:

Stan was quite clear that the shrouds are to be hand tightened. See the
manual, p.5.

Cheers,
Shawn
s/v Sweet Baboo


On Thu, Jun 27, 2024, 12:26?PM DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> I welcome you to contact me directly, and I invite you to look at my
> 1996/2003 Rhodes in Minneapolis. My head is set up like the recent
> attachment.  I think that is called the Swell Head.  I have a compression
> post (indicated with an arrow) between the head door and at the rear
> (abaft) of the partition that I circled in the drawing. My post is abaft of
> the mast base.
>
> I know you and others have mentioned it, but I wouldn?t rule out
> overtightened shrouds as part of the problem. I have a Loos gauge you can
> use to check your tension.
>
> I have Covid at the moment, but I am taking Paxlovid, and I should be
> happy to meet you, show you my Rhodes, and give you my Loos gauge this
> weekend. Then I could plan to look at your Rhodes at White Bear.
>
> David Berg
> Blue Loon (1996/2003)
> Minneapolis, MN
> davidmberg at mac.com
>
>
> > On Jun 27, 2024, at 11:04 AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have been perusing the archives about this and not finding pictures or
> > links that aren't expired or broken somehow.  If anyone can post pics of
> > how they tied into the hull/keel below and the cabin ceiling under the
> mast
> > that would be super helpful.
> >
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Rhodes 22 head and compression post.jpeg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 64547 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/6756f465/attachment.jpeg
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Jun 27 17:23:11 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 21:23:11 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288ED6764117FF66B9C6AA280D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Matt,

The stringers that support the cabin sole are not strong enough to support the load from the mast.  That?s in addition to the weight of the crew.  I don?t recommend what you are proposing.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 27, 2024, at 12:05?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?I have been perusing the archives about this and not finding pictures or
> links that aren't expired or broken somehow.  If anyone can post pics of
> how they tied into the hull/keel below and the cabin ceiling under the mast
> that would be super helpful.
>
> I am wondering if using the cabin sole for a temporary fix is imprudent,
> thoughts?  If I shim several places underneath it to spread the load?
>
>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 10:45?AM Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
>>
>> I've just gotten some time to catch up and review the photos in detail.
>> I'm not familiar with the 'swell head'. First time I've even heard the term
>> in reference to the Rhodes.  But I agree with Peter's third point, the
>> compression post looks to be well forward of the mast.  A look at the mast
>> in relation to the port and the compression post in relation to the same
>> port shows several inches of offset and as Peter suggests, unless that load
>> can be transferred by the decking, it's going to distort.  Just my 2 cents.
>>
>> Rob
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 9:08 AM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>>
>> I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of it.
>> I've reached some conclusions:
>>
>> 1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.
>>
>> 2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.
>>
>> 3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the
>> compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the
>> position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else with a
>> 'swell head' layout can confirm.
>>
>> 4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way too
>> far forward for my liking).
>>
>> 5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is clearly
>> failing on Matt's boat.
>>
>> 6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in
>> order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the
>> compression post is.
>>
>> 7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.
>>
>> So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend like
>> that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor should
>> obviously be considered as well.
>>
>> I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full original
>> strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another compression
>> post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck should
>> be fixed too.)
>>
>> That's my best guess, anyway.
>>
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>
>>
>>
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>
>>>> On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
>>>
>>> So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
>>>
>>> Matt
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: enclosed head floor plan.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 109235 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
>> <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
>>>>
>>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Jun 27 19:37:15 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2024 18:37:15 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288ED6764117FF66B9C6AA280D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288ED6764117FF66B9C6AA280D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCs5qWULZi=HKFiimtObpOoODiEzyD0HV7E0AUviOfWMAA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Roger.  That makes sense.  My Boatworks guy is coming to look at it
on Saturday and I will report back.

David, I hope you recover quickly from the Crud.  DO reach out when you're
better.  I would love to meet you in person.  Ironically, I spotted youy
boat yesterday on Lake Nokomis.  I was on my way to the airport with some
time to kill.  Looks beautiful!

Matt

On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 4:31?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> The stringers that support the cabin sole are not strong enough to support
> the load from the mast.  That?s in addition to the weight of the crew.  I
> don?t recommend what you are proposing.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 27, 2024, at 12:05?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?I have been perusing the archives about this and not finding pictures or
> > links that aren't expired or broken somehow.  If anyone can post pics of
> > how they tied into the hull/keel below and the cabin ceiling under the
> mast
> > that would be super helpful.
> >
> > I am wondering if using the cabin sole for a temporary fix is imprudent,
> > thoughts?  If I shim several places underneath it to spread the load?
> >
> >> On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 10:45?AM Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
> >>
> >> I've just gotten some time to catch up and review the photos in detail.
> >> I'm not familiar with the 'swell head'. First time I've even heard the
> term
> >> in reference to the Rhodes.  But I agree with Peter's third point, the
> >> compression post looks to be well forward of the mast.  A look at the
> mast
> >> in relation to the port and the compression post in relation to the same
> >> port shows several inches of offset and as Peter suggests, unless that
> load
> >> can be transferred by the decking, it's going to distort.  Just my 2
> cents.
> >>
> >> Rob
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> >> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 9:08 AM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
> >>
> >> I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of
> it.
> >> I've reached some conclusions:
> >>
> >> 1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.
> >>
> >> 2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.
> >>
> >> 3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the
> >> compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the
> >> position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else
> with a
> >> 'swell head' layout can confirm.
> >>
> >> 4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way too
> >> far forward for my liking).
> >>
> >> 5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is
> clearly
> >> failing on Matt's boat.
> >>
> >> 6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in
> >> order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the
> >> compression post is.
> >>
> >> 7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.
> >>
> >> So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend
> like
> >> that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor should
> >> obviously be considered as well.
> >>
> >> I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full original
> >> strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another
> compression
> >> post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck
> should
> >> be fixed too.)
> >>
> >> That's my best guess, anyway.
> >>
> >> Peter Nyberg
> >> Coventry, CT
> >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >>
> >>>> On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
> >>>
> >>> So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
> >>>
> >>> Matt
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: enclosed head floor plan.jpg
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 109235 bytes
> >> Desc: not available
> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
> >> <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
> >>>>
> >>
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Fri Jun 28 12:29:10 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2024 11:29:10 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCs5qWULZi=HKFiimtObpOoODiEzyD0HV7E0AUviOfWMAA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sMora-0000000HAZu-3UZH@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <DM6PR05MB69858F6A6AF7C7651935F652C1D72@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCtocpOaV1PwaSUhYyKmJJw-XZbpNX9Gki8VQeURj+XyyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288ED6764117FF66B9C6AA280D72@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCs5qWULZi=HKFiimtObpOoODiEzyD0HV7E0AUviOfWMAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCumRFfgp1oRh9TFiWTNf7bNnaqsDrk4L=2PoX_eKb9JyQ@mail.gmail.com>

You all have been super helpful in processing this difficult discovery. If
it makes us all feel better I only paid $1,800 for this great boat needing
some work.  So, I'm looking forward to getting to the bottom of this issue
and am optimistic the boat is not dead yet.

For those of you who have had similar issues with sagging and post
additions, did any of you find that there wasn't much rot in the deck, but
that it was mostly over tensioning the shrouds?

Matt




On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 6:37?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Roger.  That makes sense.  My Boatworks guy is coming to look at it
> on Saturday and I will report back.
>
> David, I hope you recover quickly from the Crud.  DO reach out when you're
> better.  I would love to meet you in person.  Ironically, I spotted youy
> boat yesterday on Lake Nokomis.  I was on my way to the airport with some
> time to kill.  Looks beautiful!
>
> Matt
>
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 4:31?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Matt,
>>
>> The stringers that support the cabin sole are not strong enough to
>> support the load from the mast.  That?s in addition to the weight of the
>> crew.  I don?t recommend what you are proposing.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jun 27, 2024, at 12:05?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > ?I have been perusing the archives about this and not finding pictures
>> or
>> > links that aren't expired or broken somehow.  If anyone can post pics of
>> > how they tied into the hull/keel below and the cabin ceiling under the
>> mast
>> > that would be super helpful.
>> >
>> > I am wondering if using the cabin sole for a temporary fix is imprudent,
>> > thoughts?  If I shim several places underneath it to spread the load?
>> >
>> >> On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 10:45?AM Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I've just gotten some time to catch up and review the photos in detail.
>> >> I'm not familiar with the 'swell head'. First time I've even heard the
>> term
>> >> in reference to the Rhodes.  But I agree with Peter's third point, the
>> >> compression post looks to be well forward of the mast.  A look at the
>> mast
>> >> in relation to the port and the compression post in relation to the
>> same
>> >> port shows several inches of offset and as Peter suggests, unless that
>> load
>> >> can be transferred by the decking, it's going to distort.  Just my 2
>> cents.
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >> ________________________________
>> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> >> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
>> >> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 9:08 AM
>> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step issues?
>> >>
>> >> I've just gone back through this whole thread to try to make sense of
>> it.
>> >> I've reached some conclusions:
>> >>
>> >> 1) There obviously _is_ a compression post.
>> >>
>> >> 2) This boat is configured with the fully enclosed 'swell head'.
>> >>
>> >> 3) Based on pictures and the attached 'floor plan', it seems that the
>> >> compression post in a 'swell head' layout is well forward of the of the
>> >> position it occupies in the 'standard' layout. Perhaps someone else
>> with a
>> >> 'swell head' layout can confirm.
>> >>
>> >> 4) This also puts the compression post well forward of the mast (way
>> too
>> >> far forward for my liking).
>> >>
>> >> 5) In general, it seems that this arrangement works anyway, but is
>> clearly
>> >> failing on Matt's boat.
>> >>
>> >> 6) But, in order for this to work, the deck needs to be very strong in
>> >> order for it to 'carry' the load from where the mast is to where the
>> >> compression post is.
>> >>
>> >> 7) Matt's deck isn't doing the job.
>> >>
>> >> So, my guess is there's rot in the deck. Otherwise, it wouldn't bend
>> like
>> >> that. The possibility that there's also rot under the cabin floor
>> should
>> >> obviously be considered as well.
>> >>
>> >> I have doubts that any reasonable repair could restore the full
>> original
>> >> strength of the deck.  Therefor, I think it likely that another
>> compression
>> >> post more directly under the mast will need to added. (But the deck
>> should
>> >> be fixed too.)
>> >>
>> >> That's my best guess, anyway.
>> >>
>> >> Peter Nyberg
>> >> Coventry, CT
>> >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> >>
>> >>>> On 2024-06-27, at 08:03:19 EDT, Matt Wilson wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> So you do not see a compression post?   Someone probably removed it?
>> >>>
>> >>> Matt
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> >> Name: enclosed head floor plan.jpg
>> >> Type: image/jpeg
>> >> Size: 109235 bytes
>> >> Desc: not available
>> >> URL: <
>> >>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
>> >> <
>> >>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240627/ccc671e4/attachment.jpg
>> >>>>
>> >>
>>
>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Fri Jun 28 22:43:50 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 02:43:50 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>


 am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use something else?
Thanks.

Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976

Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com

From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Fri Jun 28 22:47:16 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2024 21:47:16 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY4QQHfTLUMNN-jLG+4hWfKqPNLL_r1AVoGJVhP6nxnNGQ@mail.gmail.com>

I used this and it worked great.  Do make sure to spend some time pre
bending them.  I used cinder blocks. Make sure to keep enough length.....
Also i got new carpets and stainless steel staples.

Grab a galvanizing paint can while you're in there ..

Tight sails,

On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 9:43 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

>
>  am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
> something else?
> Thanks.
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
>
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>

From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Fri Jun 28 22:49:11 2024
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2024 22:49:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRr8+a__-S61Am76iVjXrv8m8xPisq6_k4EdvUs1gccBQg@mail.gmail.com>

Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
with it so far.

Cary
S/V Whisper 86
On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

>
>  am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
> something else?
> Thanks.
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
>
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 01:54:22 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 05:54:22 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRr8+a__-S61Am76iVjXrv8m8xPisq6_k4EdvUs1gccBQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPQvPRr8+a__-S61Am76iVjXrv8m8xPisq6_k4EdvUs1gccBQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428889DC53BE72D114B7FFFD80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Graham,

I used PT 2x6?s when I redid my trailer?s bunks back in 1990.  They are still serviceable after about 34 years, although the carpeting is getting pretty worn.  I recommend you use a spade bit to counterbore the surface of the bunks so that the heads of the carriage bolts will be below the surface.  This will prevent the heads from scratching or denting the hull.  Use galvanized carriage bolts.  Use SS or monel staples to attach the carpeting.  C steel staples will leave rust stains on your boat and trailer.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 28, 2024, at 10:49?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
> with it so far.
> 
> Cary
> S/V Whisper 86
>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
>> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
>> something else?
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> Rhodes 22
>> Agile, 1976
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>> 

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Jun 29 09:12:42 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 09:12:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
Message-ID: <E1sNXsg-00000000fzk-1cCg@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Graham,

Since you're replacing your bunks, you may want to investigate alternatives to carpet as a covering.  I'm only vaguely aware that such alternatives exist, and haven't looked into the matter myself.  I think the primary benefit is supposed to be that they are more slippery.

Let us know if you find anything interesting.

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-06-28, at 22:43:50 EDT, Graham Stewart wrote:
>
>  am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use 2x6 
> pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use something 
> else? 
> Thanks.
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> 
> Graham Stewart
> <a href="http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list">gstewart.gm at 
> gmail.com</a> 
> 



From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 14:03:33 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 18:03:33 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428889DC53BE72D114B7FFFD80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPQvPRr8+a__-S61Am76iVjXrv8m8xPisq6_k4EdvUs1gccBQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428889DC53BE72D114B7FFFD80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB81536B04D66A435DC11DA2B6F5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks Roger:
As you will see in my response to Peter, I would like to avoid using carpeting altogether by making slip pads from composite deck skirting - which I have on hand.

What I am unsure about is how I prepare the bunks with the shape of the hull set in them. How did you do that when you changed your bunks?
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 1:54 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement

Graham,

I used PT 2x6?s when I redid my trailer?s bunks back in 1990.  They are still serviceable after about 34 years, although the carpeting is getting pretty worn.  I recommend you use a spade bit to counterbore the surface of the bunks so that the heads of the carriage bolts will be below the surface.  This will prevent the heads from scratching or denting the hull.  Use galvanized carriage bolts.  Use SS or monel staples to attach the carpeting.  C steel staples will leave rust stains on your boat and trailer.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 28, 2024, at 10:49?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
> with it so far.
>
> Cary
> S/V Whisper 86
>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
>> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
>> something else?
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Rhodes 22
>> Agile, 1976
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 14:38:40 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 14:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How does my mast jack work?
Message-ID: <CABvjUT1T-7Lo_t04expWM0woO97hBXeroy8SSKb52V2v7P8JXw@mail.gmail.com>

All the reading I've done online talks about a ginpole but... Mine doesn't
rly look like that? It has a socket and foot that looks like it's.meant to
socket into the cockpit. I don't understand! I was planning on dismantling
the whole thing and turning it into a ginpole by removing the foot and
adding a rubber plate. What do you all think though? Is this simpler to use
than I think?




Thanks!
-------------- next part --------------
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 15:06:03 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 19:06:03 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <PH7PR12MB81536B04D66A435DC11DA2B6F5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPQvPRr8+a__-S61Am76iVjXrv8m8xPisq6_k4EdvUs1gccBQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428889DC53BE72D114B7FFFD80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81536B04D66A435DC11DA2B6F5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288A062154A1D50BC6A5D0E80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Graham,

I am assuming your current bunks are already the correct shape.  On my Lil Dude boat trailer, there are 4 vertical uprights that support each of the bunks.  Each upright has slots that enable the vertical position of the bunks at that station to be adjusted.  Since my bunks were a good fit, I did not have to adjust any of those uprights.  Before you remove the old bunks, measure the overall length, the front overhang, and the rear overhang.  Cut the new bunks to the measured overall length.  Place the new bunks on top of the uprights and adjust the front and rear overhangs.  Using either a long bar clamp or a strap tie down, pull the middle of the bunks down until the bunks touch the two middle uprights.  Check your front and rear overhang dimensions and that the uprights are centered on the bunks.  Starting with the two center uprights, drill and thru bolt the bunks with galvanized carriage bolts.  Then, drill and thru bolt the bunks at the two outer uprights.  By starting from the center and working towards the ends, the bunks will automatically assume the correct shape.  Once the bunks have been thru bolted, you can staple your carpeting or whatever material you?ve decided to use.

I?ve never had to set up a new boat trailer from scratch.  So, I?d have to sit down and think about it if your present bunks don?t already fit your hull.  There?s probably an easy way to do it, I?ve just never had any experience with a new trailer.  I might go to a local boat dealer and ask in the boat delivery prep shop how they set up a new trailer.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:03?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks Roger:
> As you will see in my response to Peter, I would like to avoid using carpeting altogether by making slip pads from composite deck skirting - which I have on hand.
> 
> What I am unsure about is how I prepare the bunks with the shape of the hull set in them. How did you do that when you changed your bunks?
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 1:54 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
> 
> Graham,
> 
> I used PT 2x6?s when I redid my trailer?s bunks back in 1990.  They are still serviceable after about 34 years, although the carpeting is getting pretty worn.  I recommend you use a spade bit to counterbore the surface of the bunks so that the heads of the carriage bolts will be below the surface.  This will prevent the heads from scratching or denting the hull.  Use galvanized carriage bolts.  Use SS or monel staples to attach the carpeting.  C steel staples will leave rust stains on your boat and trailer.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 28, 2024, at 10:49?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
>> with it so far.
>> 
>> Cary
>> S/V Whisper 86
>>>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
>>> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
>>> something else?
>>> Thanks.
>>> 
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Rhodes 22
>>> Agile, 1976
>>> 
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>> 

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 16:03:30 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 15:03:30 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Continuing compression post saga
Message-ID: <CANbEFCsW_WbHfK1d4p8c2U0i2uND91Dix9tOiPHsCLCodbT0Mg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi everyone,

Per my boatworks guy?s advice, I have started working on installing an
additional compression post as mentioned in some posts on this list. After
cutting away the floor next to my original off set post, I have found this
2x(4?) on edge supporting the original post.  This 2x4 appears to be half
submerged into some kind of cement like substance. Can I use this 2x4 and
or cement to support an additional post?

I hope the picture shows up

Thanks again,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN
-------------- next part --------------
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From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 16:10:50 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 15:10:50 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Continuing compression post saga
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCsW_WbHfK1d4p8c2U0i2uND91Dix9tOiPHsCLCodbT0Mg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCsW_WbHfK1d4p8c2U0i2uND91Dix9tOiPHsCLCodbT0Mg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCu_VjLXnnM5eC_cAPGU+R-5fwnXjEe3tUfypsDXt1Cy7g@mail.gmail.com>

The boatworks guy didn?t really think there was much rot. It all sounds
solid. FYI

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 3:03?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Per my boatworks guy?s advice, I have started working on installing an
> additional compression post as mentioned in some posts on this list. After
> cutting away the floor next to my original off set post, I have found this
> 2x(4?) on edge supporting the original post.  This 2x4 appears to be half
> submerged into some kind of cement like substance. Can I use this 2x4 and
> or cement to support an additional post?
>
> I hope the picture shows up
>
> Thanks again,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
>
-------------- next part --------------
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 16:25:11 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 20:25:11 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How does my mast jack work?
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT1T-7Lo_t04expWM0woO97hBXeroy8SSKb52V2v7P8JXw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT1T-7Lo_t04expWM0woO97hBXeroy8SSKb52V2v7P8JXw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Kenwood,

The male pin and tabernacle in the picture looks like it?s designed to plug into the cockpit socket for the galley table.  The guy lines look like they would attach to the stern cleats and the winches port and starboard and would hold the gin pole vertical.  Do you have a block that attaches to the forestay?  It looks like you would run a halyard to the block on the bow forestay, then back to the block on the end of the gin pole, and down to the winch.

This is very different from the mast raising system on my boat.  On my boat, the base of the gin pole attaches to a fitting on the leading edge of the cabin roof.  The forward lower side stays are attached to the gin pole near the upper end.  The winch line on the gin pole runs to the bow cleat.  To step the mast, the gin pole starts vertical and pivots downward from its base towards the bow as the mast is winched upward.

Stan went thru a number of different versions of the mast stepping system.  You must have an early version.

Never having used your system, I can?t comment on how well it works.  I think I have the newest version and it works pretty well.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:39?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?All the reading I've done online talks about a ginpole but... Mine doesn't
> rly look like that? It has a socket and foot that looks like it's.meant to
> socket into the cockpit. I don't understand! I was planning on dismantling
> the whole thing and turning it into a ginpole by removing the foot and
> adding a rubber plate. What do you all think though? Is this simpler to use
> than I think?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks!
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 16:44:43 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 20:44:43 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Continuing compression post saga
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCu_VjLXnnM5eC_cAPGU+R-5fwnXjEe3tUfypsDXt1Cy7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCsW_WbHfK1d4p8c2U0i2uND91Dix9tOiPHsCLCodbT0Mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCu_VjLXnnM5eC_cAPGU+R-5fwnXjEe3tUfypsDXt1Cy7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288BC556BB54C3AAA6ED2C280D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

The shoal draft keel has so called internal ballast.  In the picture, you are looking at the top of the internal ballast.  The ballast consists of a slurry of lead shot and Portland cement.  This slurry is poured into the ballast cavity and allowed to cure.  Once cured, this composite ballast material is very strong in compression.  I recommend you run your new compression post down to the top of the ballast and thru bolt it to the wooden stringer.  The thru bolt will prevent the bottom of the compression post from moving around no matter how bad the sailing conditions get.  Make the compression post long enough such that it must be forced into position, not a slip fit.

Do you have rot in the core of your cabin roof?  If yes; then, that must be fixed first.  This fix depends upon the cabin roof being incompressible and rot in the core will invalidate this assumption.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:11?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?The boatworks guy didn?t really think there was much rot. It all sounds
> solid. FYI
>
>> On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 3:03?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> Per my boatworks guy?s advice, I have started working on installing an
>> additional compression post as mentioned in some posts on this list. After
>> cutting away the floor next to my original off set post, I have found this
>> 2x(4?) on edge supporting the original post.  This 2x4 appears to be half
>> submerged into some kind of cement like substance. Can I use this 2x4 and
>> or cement to support an additional post?
>>
>> I hope the picture shows up
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 16:45:10 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 20:45:10 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list]  Continuing compression post saga
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288DBE98273BA509A62AEAE80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

The shoal draft keel has so called internal ballast.  In the picture, you are looking at the top of the internal ballast.  The ballast consists of a slurry of lead shot and Portland cement.  This slurry is poured into the ballast cavity and allowed to cure.  Once cured, this composite ballast material is very strong in compression.  I recommend you run your new compression post down to the top of the ballast and thru bolt it to the wooden stringer.  The thru bolt will prevent the bottom of the compression post from moving around no matter how bad the sailing conditions get.  Make the compression post long enough such that it must be forced into position, not a slip fit.

Do you have rot in the core of your cabin roof?  If yes; then, that must be fixed first.  This fix depends upon the cabin roof being incompressible and rot in the core will invalidate this assumption.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:11?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?The boatworks guy didn?t really think there was much rot. It all sounds
> solid. FYI
>
>> On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 3:03?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi everyone,
>> Per my boatworks guy?s advice, I have started working on installing an
>> additional compression post as mentioned in some posts on this list. After
>> cutting away the floor next to my original off set post, I have found this
>> 2x(4?) on edge supporting the original post.  This 2x4 appears to be half
>> submerged into some kind of cement like substance. Can I use this 2x4 and
>> or cement to support an additional post?
>> I hope the picture shows up
>> Thanks again,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
> -------------- next part --------------
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> Name: image_67205121.JPG
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 17:03:04 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 21:03:04 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How does my mast jack work?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288AAB58D156DE570F8902580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

By any chance, does your mast raising system work ?backwards??  ie, Start with the mast bolted into the tabernacle and lying forward resting on the bow pulpit.  Then, winch the mast up backwards using a halyard led to the gin pole and winch?  The guy lines on the gin pole would still be rigged to hold the gin pole vertical.  I can see how this strategy would work using only the pieces/parts in the photo.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:25?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Kenwood,
>
> The male pin and tabernacle in the picture looks like it?s designed to plug into the cockpit socket for the galley table.  The guy lines look like they would attach to the stern cleats and the winches port and starboard and would hold the gin pole vertical.  Do you have a block that attaches to the forestay?  It looks like you would run a halyard to the block on the bow forestay, then back to the block on the end of the gin pole, and down to the winch.
>
> This is very different from the mast raising system on my boat.  On my boat, the base of the gin pole attaches to a fitting on the leading edge of the cabin roof.  The forward lower side stays are attached to the gin pole near the upper end.  The winch line on the gin pole runs to the bow cleat.  To step the mast, the gin pole starts vertical and pivots downward from its base towards the bow as the mast is winched upward.
>
> Stan went thru a number of different versions of the mast stepping system.  You must have an early version.
>
> Never having used your system, I can?t comment on how well it works.  I think I have the newest version and it works pretty well.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:39?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?All the reading I've done online talks about a ginpole but... Mine doesn't
>> rly look like that? It has a socket and foot that looks like it's.meant to
>> socket into the cockpit. I don't understand! I was planning on dismantling
>> the whole thing and turning it into a ginpole by removing the foot and
>> adding a rubber plate. What do you all think though? Is this simpler to use
>> than I think?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: 1000010139.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 4255876 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240629/1f3a2d4c/attachment.jpg>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 17:14:26 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 17:14:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288F275C091063E967BD2A680C02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
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Roger,
Success.  It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path.
 Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix
things.  Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too.  Now the
only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression
testing, this time the electric start is dead.  Appears to be a stuck relay
which is a part not available anywhere.  Starts easy enough by pulling
the rope for now.  I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess.
Thanks for your wise advice.
Patrick


On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> I?m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the
> throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04?AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Thanks Roger,
> > Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
> > like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean
> up
> > and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of
> weeks.
> > Patrick
> >
> >
> >> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Patrick,
> >>
> >> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
> >> with minimal disassembly:
> >>
> >> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move
> the
> >> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
> >>
> >> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb
> cleaner
> >> dripping out of the needle valve.
> >>
> >> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
> >> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off
> any
> >> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the
> needle
> >> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the
> fuel
> >> line inlet.
> >>
> >> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
> >>
> >> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
> >>
> >> A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.  But, the engine should still
> >> run.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Roger, et. al.,
> >>>
> >>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
> >> dripping
> >>> from carb intake and smoking some.
> >>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
> >> under
> >>> the hood is pristine clean.
> >>>
> >>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
> >>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
> >>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
> >> out
> >>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil
> and
> >> my
> >>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
> >>> culprit.
> >>>
> >>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in
> some
> >>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
> >> old
> >>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are
> probably
> >>> not an issue.
> >>>
> >>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
> >>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be
> fixed
> >>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I
> have
> >>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
> >>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
> >> it
> >>> is still stuck.
> >>>
> >>> Patrick
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>>
> >>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
> >>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
> >> will
> >>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> PBR
> >>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks Roger,
> >>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
> >> might
> >>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and
> my
> >>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this
> time
> >>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
> >>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
> >> with
> >>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35
> years
> >> ago
> >>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
> >> guessing I
> >>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
> >> in
> >>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8
> cyl
> >>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
> >>>>
> >>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
> >>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
> >>>>
> >>>> Patrick
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi Patrick,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
> >> the
> >>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the
> oil
> >>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in
> the
> >>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> >>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
> >>>> would
> >>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> >>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> >>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> >>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
> >>>> dry.
> >>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
> >> rings.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ?Hi Patrick,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it
> on
> >>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> >>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> >>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> >>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> >>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
> >>>> engine
> >>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
> >> compression.
> >>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
> >> If
> >>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage
> issues.
> >>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> >>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck
> piston
> >>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
> >>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> >>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
> >> crank
> >>>> it
> >>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
> >> the
> >>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
> >> and
> >>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
> >> don't
> >>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck
> piston
> >>>>> rings.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> >>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase
> breather
> >>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of
> the
> >>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never
> needed
> >>>> to
> >>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I
> doubt
> >>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
> >>>> However, I
> >>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
> >>>> clogged.
> >>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
> >> verify
> >>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ________________________________
> >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> >>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> >>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Patrick,
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
> >> would
> >>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
> >> engine
> >>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> >>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out
> of
> >>>> the
> >>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
> >> air
> >>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
> >>>> become
> >>>>> saturated with oil.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using
> the
> >>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
> >> stuck)
> >>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> >>>>> combustion path.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> >>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> >>>>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
> Of
> >>>>> PBR
> >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> >>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> >>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Hello all.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
> >>>> years.
> >>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> >>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
> >> always
> >>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> >>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
> >> bit
> >>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke
> at
> >>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
> >> the
> >>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it
> again.
> >>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me
> curious
> >>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
> >>>> (clean
> >>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent
> clog*
> >>>> or
> >>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
> >> valve?* (
> >>>>> but runs pretty good)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I
> hate
> >>>> to
> >>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
> >>>> than
> >>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> >>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
> >>>> cowling
> >>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> >>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> >>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
> >> sure
> >>>> of
> >>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Patrick
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>
>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 17:30:51 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 17:30:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How does my mast jack work?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABvjUT1T-7Lo_t04expWM0woO97hBXeroy8SSKb52V2v7P8JXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT38HUH8kim1EKS4VdXDJm6jCo++QeaqgiHLFLovhCp9tQ@mail.gmail.com>

Wow! Im impressed you were able to figure all that out with one look. I do
not have a block on the bow BUT.. now that i think about it, there are two
slots in the top of my mast. It always confused me a bit, I wasn't sure why
i would need to run two halyards.. but If it works the way you estimated,
then perhaps one of those blocks, the one that dosn't hold the sail up. Is
intended to be used as you describe. How strange! I'll take more pictures
when i get home, and maybe sketch out a plan.

Ive seen a lot of ginpoles like the one that you describe you have, if i
have an early one. Maybe i can reconfigure it to work more like yours? Ive
asked around on like r/sailing and other places and nobody has any idea
what im talking about.

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 4:41?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Kenwood,
>
> The male pin and tabernacle in the picture looks like it?s designed to
> plug into the cockpit socket for the galley table.  The guy lines look like
> they would attach to the stern cleats and the winches port and starboard
> and would hold the gin pole vertical.  Do you have a block that attaches to
> the forestay?  It looks like you would run a halyard to the block on the
> bow forestay, then back to the block on the end of the gin pole, and down
> to the winch.
>
> This is very different from the mast raising system on my boat.  On my
> boat, the base of the gin pole attaches to a fitting on the leading edge of
> the cabin roof.  The forward lower side stays are attached to the gin pole
> near the upper end.  The winch line on the gin pole runs to the bow cleat.
> To step the mast, the gin pole starts vertical and pivots downward from its
> base towards the bow as the mast is winched upward.
>
> Stan went thru a number of different versions of the mast stepping
> system.  You must have an early version.
>
> Never having used your system, I can?t comment on how well it works.  I
> think I have the newest version and it works pretty well.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:39?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?All the reading I've done online talks about a ginpole but... Mine
> doesn't
> > rly look like that? It has a socket and foot that looks like it's.meant
> to
> > socket into the cockpit. I don't understand! I was planning on
> dismantling
> > the whole thing and turning it into a ginpole by removing the foot and
> > adding a rubber plate. What do you all think though? Is this simpler to
> use
> > than I think?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> > -------------- next part --------------
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>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 17:45:01 2024
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 16:45:01 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Continuing compression post saga
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288DBE98273BA509A62AEAE80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB4288DBE98273BA509A62AEAE80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCv-iQ_xGGhhVqbSqWVEWB-u9cyvU29Z5TqDhL+VfiisYg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Roger. You are an amazing resource!

We could not find any evidence of rot with tapping on the fiberglass. It
all had a very sharp pop sound.  No dull thuds and no apparent  squish or
movement.

If there is rot there, would the fiberglass start to crack since it is now
getting compressed?

Matt

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 4:01?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> The shoal draft keel has so called internal ballast.  In the picture, you
> are looking at the top of the internal ballast.  The ballast consists of a
> slurry of lead shot and Portland cement.  This slurry is poured into the
> ballast cavity and allowed to cure.  Once cured, this composite ballast
> material is very strong in compression.  I recommend you run your new
> compression post down to the top of the ballast and thru bolt it to the
> wooden stringer.  The thru bolt will prevent the bottom of the compression
> post from moving around no matter how bad the sailing conditions get.  Make
> the compression post long enough such that it must be forced into position,
> not a slip fit.
>
> Do you have rot in the core of your cabin roof?  If yes; then, that must
> be fixed first.  This fix depends upon the cabin roof being incompressible
> and rot in the core will invalidate this assumption.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:11?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?The boatworks guy didn?t really think there was much rot. It all sounds
> > solid. FYI
> >
> >> On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 3:03?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >> Hi everyone,
> >> Per my boatworks guy?s advice, I have started working on installing an
> >> additional compression post as mentioned in some posts on this list.
> After
> >> cutting away the floor next to my original off set post, I have found
> this
> >> 2x(4?) on edge supporting the original post.  This 2x4 appears to be
> half
> >> submerged into some kind of cement like substance. Can I use this 2x4
> and
> >> or cement to support an additional post?
> >> I hope the picture shows up
> >> Thanks again,
> >> Matt Wilson
> >> Hornblower II
> >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 17:47:25 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 17:47:25 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How does my mast jack work?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288AAB58D156DE570F8902580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288AAB58D156DE570F8902580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT1NqJaCR0xMXQdXAMb5_MnYUrvF-6tcSb+mgsE=2Wbx-g@mail.gmail.com>

Oh, that's a strange idea but maybe yeah. Literally backwards gin pole, I
can take some closeup pictures of the pole but, what you see is what you
get. And there is no socket or anything like that forward of the tabernacle
just, putting that out there.

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024, 5:41?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> By any chance, does your mast raising system work ?backwards??  ie, Start
> with the mast bolted into the tabernacle and lying forward resting on the
> bow pulpit.  Then, winch the mast up backwards using a halyard led to the
> gin pole and winch?  The guy lines on the gin pole would still be rigged to
> hold the gin pole vertical.  I can see how this strategy would work using
> only the pieces/parts in the photo.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:25?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Kenwood,
> >
> > The male pin and tabernacle in the picture looks like it?s designed to
> plug into the cockpit socket for the galley table.  The guy lines look like
> they would attach to the stern cleats and the winches port and starboard
> and would hold the gin pole vertical.  Do you have a block that attaches to
> the forestay?  It looks like you would run a halyard to the block on the
> bow forestay, then back to the block on the end of the gin pole, and down
> to the winch.
> >
> > This is very different from the mast raising system on my boat.  On my
> boat, the base of the gin pole attaches to a fitting on the leading edge of
> the cabin roof.  The forward lower side stays are attached to the gin pole
> near the upper end.  The winch line on the gin pole runs to the bow cleat.
> To step the mast, the gin pole starts vertical and pivots downward from its
> base towards the bow as the mast is winched upward.
> >
> > Stan went thru a number of different versions of the mast stepping
> system.  You must have an early version.
> >
> > Never having used your system, I can?t comment on how well it works.  I
> think I have the newest version and it works pretty well.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:39?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?All the reading I've done online talks about a ginpole but... Mine
> doesn't
> >> rly look like that? It has a socket and foot that looks like it's.meant
> to
> >> socket into the cockpit. I don't understand! I was planning on
> dismantling
> >> the whole thing and turning it into a ginpole by removing the foot and
> >> adding a rubber plate. What do you all think though? Is this simpler to
> use
> >> than I think?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: 1000010139.jpg
> >> Type: image/jpeg
> >> Size: 4255876 bytes
> >> Desc: not available
> >> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240629/1f3a2d4c/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From kenwood364 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 18:01:52 2024
From: kenwood364 at gmail.com (Kenwood _)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 18:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+Bnx6yoSSUMnLuVZL=6YkLcOH89yH_s1tbdoRwEoGX+jQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+D_mzuJyYcQH89kM520PoMPUQYvfYBV0jaE-y_XuXGraw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288F275C091063E967BD2A680C02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+Bnx6yoSSUMnLuVZL=6YkLcOH89yH_s1tbdoRwEoGX+jQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABvjUT2-ViB2SUy9TFhKPXrEGSckVGnjc4MUgLvqGnxrOk5fLQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just got a bf100 for my boat! Glad to see that somebody else has a
similar engine. Being 4 stroke (and not prone to seizing while idle) plus
the 60w rectifier sold me!

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 5:14?PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger,
> Success.  It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path.
>  Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix
> things.  Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too.  Now the
> only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression
> testing, this time the electric start is dead.  Appears to be a stuck relay
> which is a part not available anywhere.  Starts easy enough by pulling
> the rope for now.  I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess.
> Thanks for your wise advice.
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Patrick,
> >
> > I?m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the
> > throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04?AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Thanks Roger,
> > > Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It
> looks
> > > like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean
> > up
> > > and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of
> > weeks.
> > > Patrick
> > >
> > >
> > >> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Patrick,
> > >>
> > >> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it
> out
> > >> with minimal disassembly:
> > >>
> > >> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move
> > the
> > >> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
> > >>
> > >> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb
> > cleaner
> > >> dripping out of the needle valve.
> > >>
> > >> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
> > >> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean
> off
> > any
> > >> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the
> > needle
> > >> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the
> > fuel
> > >> line inlet.
> > >>
> > >> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
> > >>
> > >> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the
> oil.
> > >>
> > >> A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.  But, the engine should
> still
> > >> run.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> ?Roger, et. al.,
> > >>>
> > >>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
> > >> dripping
> > >>> from carb intake and smoking some.
> > >>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
> > >> under
> > >>> the hood is pristine clean.
> > >>>
> > >>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it
> still
> > >>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
> > >>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I
> drained
> > >> out
> > >>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil
> > and
> > >> my
> > >>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
> > >>> culprit.
> > >>>
> > >>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in
> > some
> > >>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40
> year
> > >> old
> > >>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are
> > probably
> > >>> not an issue.
> > >>>
> > >>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb
> apart
> > >>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be
> > fixed
> > >>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I
> > have
> > >>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..
> I
> > >>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in
> case
> > >> it
> > >>> is still stuck.
> > >>>
> > >>> Patrick
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com
> >
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Hi Patrick,
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would
> pull
> > >>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the
> starter
> > >> will
> > >>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test
> RPM.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >>>> ________________________________
> > >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> > >> PBR
> > >>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> > >>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Thanks Roger,
> > >>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but
> it
> > >> might
> > >>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas
> and
> > my
> > >>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this
> > time
> > >>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
> > >>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
> > >> with
> > >>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35
> > years
> > >> ago
> > >>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
> > >> guessing I
> > >>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the
> tester
> > >> in
> > >>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8
> > cyl
> > >>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get
> some
> > >>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Patrick
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> Hi Patrick,
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping
> out
> > >> the
> > >>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the
> > oil
> > >>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in
> > the
> > >>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> > >>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil
> level
> > >>>> would
> > >>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the
> carburetor,
> > >>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> > >>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> > >>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor
> runs
> > >>>> dry.
> > >>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
> > >> rings.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> ?Hi Patrick,
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use
> it
> > on
> > >>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can
> quickly
> > >>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> > >>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If
> your
> > >>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings
> and
> > >>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt
> some
> > >>>> engine
> > >>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
> > >> compression.
> > >>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston
> rings.
> > >> If
> > >>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage
> > issues.
> > >>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> > >>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck
> > piston
> > >>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ?
> the
> > >>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> > >>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
> > >> crank
> > >>>> it
> > >>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day,
> start
> > >> the
> > >>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it
> down
> > >> and
> > >>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
> > >> don't
> > >>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck
> > piston
> > >>>>> rings.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> > >>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase
> > breather
> > >>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of
> > the
> > >>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never
> > needed
> > >>>> to
> > >>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I
> > doubt
> > >>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
> > >>>> However, I
> > >>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
> > >>>> clogged.
> > >>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
> > >> verify
> > >>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> ________________________________
> > >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on
> behalf
> > of
> > >>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> > >>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Patrick,
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
> > >> would
> > >>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
> > >> engine
> > >>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> > >>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out
> > of
> > >>>> the
> > >>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check
> the
> > >> air
> > >>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
> > >>>> become
> > >>>>> saturated with oil.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using
> > the
> > >>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
> > >> stuck)
> > >>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> > >>>>> combustion path.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Mike
> > >>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > >>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
> > >>>>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On
> Behalf
> > Of
> > >>>>> PBR
> > >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> > >>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > >>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Hello all.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
> > >>>> years.
> > >>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one
> winter
> > >>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
> > >> always
> > >>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but
> dutifully
> > >>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran
> it a
> > >> bit
> > >>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke
> > at
> > >>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to
> put
> > >> the
> > >>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it
> > again.
> > >>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me
> > curious
> > >>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
> > >>>> (clean
> > >>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent
> > clog*
> > >>>> or
> > >>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
> > >> valve?* (
> > >>>>> but runs pretty good)
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I
> > hate
> > >>>> to
> > >>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably
> less
> > >>>> than
> > >>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a
> miracle
> > >>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
> > >>>> cowling
> > >>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to
> the
> > >>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and
> try
> > >>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
> > >> sure
> > >>>> of
> > >>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Patrick
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 18:09:47 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 22:09:47 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Continuing compression post saga
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCv-iQ_xGGhhVqbSqWVEWB-u9cyvU29Z5TqDhL+VfiisYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB4288DBE98273BA509A62AEAE80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANbEFCv-iQ_xGGhhVqbSqWVEWB-u9cyvU29Z5TqDhL+VfiisYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42883DF41F2AB8488E8437B080D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

Once the compression post is in place, the cabin roof flexing will stop.  FRP is very strong in compression.  But, it is not very strong in flexure.  The denting you are observing is a kind of flex failure called ?oil canning?.  The name comes from the old time oil cans where you flexed the bottom to dispense oil.  The only concern I have is possible cracking when you force the dent out of the cabin roof.  All I can say is, install the compression post and keep an eye out for cracking around the mast tabernacle.  If you see cracking, fix it right away to prevent water intrusion and core rot.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 5:45?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Thanks Roger. You are an amazing resource!
>
> We could not find any evidence of rot with tapping on the fiberglass. It
> all had a very sharp pop sound.  No dull thuds and no apparent  squish or
> movement.
>
> If there is rot there, would the fiberglass start to crack since it is now
> getting compressed?
>
> Matt
>
>> On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 4:01?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Matt,
>>
>> The shoal draft keel has so called internal ballast.  In the picture, you
>> are looking at the top of the internal ballast.  The ballast consists of a
>> slurry of lead shot and Portland cement.  This slurry is poured into the
>> ballast cavity and allowed to cure.  Once cured, this composite ballast
>> material is very strong in compression.  I recommend you run your new
>> compression post down to the top of the ballast and thru bolt it to the
>> wooden stringer.  The thru bolt will prevent the bottom of the compression
>> post from moving around no matter how bad the sailing conditions get.  Make
>> the compression post long enough such that it must be forced into position,
>> not a slip fit.
>>
>> Do you have rot in the core of your cabin roof?  If yes; then, that must
>> be fixed first.  This fix depends upon the cabin roof being incompressible
>> and rot in the core will invalidate this assumption.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>>> On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:11?PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?The boatworks guy didn?t really think there was much rot. It all sounds
>>> solid. FYI
>>>
>>>> On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 3:03?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>> Per my boatworks guy?s advice, I have started working on installing an
>>>> additional compression post as mentioned in some posts on this list.
>> After
>>>> cutting away the floor next to my original off set post, I have found
>> this
>>>> 2x(4?) on edge supporting the original post.  This 2x4 appears to be
>> half
>>>> submerged into some kind of cement like substance. Can I use this 2x4
>> and
>>>> or cement to support an additional post?
>>>> I hope the picture shows up
>>>> Thanks again,
>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>> Hornblower II
>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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>>> Size: 3366302 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240629/b240611a/attachment.jpe
>>>
>>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 18:14:46 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 22:14:46 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+Bnx6yoSSUMnLuVZL=6YkLcOH89yH_s1tbdoRwEoGX+jQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+CwncNzz-5yWY555ZeYtUO3yyqAUvNSTFmGpjSbJr-UqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288B05930289C0A1D8F3C0380FA2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+D_mzuJyYcQH89kM520PoMPUQYvfYBV0jaE-y_XuXGraw@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288F275C091063E967BD2A680C02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+Bnx6yoSSUMnLuVZL=6YkLcOH89yH_s1tbdoRwEoGX+jQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288862149D9B0D352859E3D80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Patrick,

I?m glad I was able to help.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 5:14?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Roger,
> Success.  It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path.
> Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix
> things.  Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too.  Now the
> only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression
> testing, this time the electric start is dead.  Appears to be a stuck relay
> which is a part not available anywhere.  Starts easy enough by pulling
> the rope for now.  I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess.
> Thanks for your wise advice.
> Patrick
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> I?m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.  Yes,  you have to remove the
>> throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04?AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Thanks Roger,
>>> Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks
>>> like only two bolts to pull the carb off.    So i will attempt to clean
>> up
>>> and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of
>> weeks.
>>> Patrick
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Patrick,
>>>> 
>>>> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out
>>>> with minimal disassembly:
>>>> 
>>>> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.  Gently move
>> the
>>>> float.  It should move several mm with little resistance.
>>>> 
>>>> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.  You should see carb
>> cleaner
>>>> dripping out of the needle valve.
>>>> 
>>>> Remove the float and needle valve.  Be careful not to lose the needle
>>>> valve seat seal.  Inspect the male part of the needle valve.  Clean off
>> any
>>>> residual deposits with carb cleaner.  Spray carb cleaner up into the
>> needle
>>>> valve seat passage.  You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the
>> fuel
>>>> line inlet.
>>>> 
>>>> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.
>>>> 
>>>> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.
>>>> 
>>>> A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.  But, the engine should still
>>>> run.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Roger, et. al.,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil
>>>> dripping
>>>>> from carb intake and smoking some.
>>>>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything
>>>> under
>>>>> the hood is pristine clean.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Oil was definitely overfilled.  I drained out about a pint and it still
>>>>> shows nearly full.  Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the
>>>>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.  What I drained
>>>> out
>>>>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil
>> and
>>>> my
>>>>> wife said it smelled of gas.  So, stuck float is or was a most likely
>>>>> culprit.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in
>> some
>>>>> oil but could not get it to change.  Seems low but could be my 40 year
>>>> old
>>>>> tester  and me trying to get a good push seal.  So, my rings are
>> probably
>>>>> not an issue.
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart
>>>>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.  It may be
>> fixed
>>>>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.  I
>> have
>>>>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..  I
>>>>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case
>>>> it
>>>>> is still stuck.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Patrick
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull
>>>>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter
>>>> will
>>>>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> PBR
>>>>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
>>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thanks Roger,
>>>>>> I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it
>>>> might
>>>>>> take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and
>> my
>>>>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this
>> time
>>>>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
>>>>>> probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester
>>>> with
>>>>>> the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35
>> years
>>>> ago
>>>>>> so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am
>>>> guessing I
>>>>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester
>>>> in
>>>>>> place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8
>> cyl
>>>>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
>>>>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Patrick
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out
>>>> the
>>>>>>> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the
>> oil
>>>>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in
>> the
>>>>>>> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
>>>>>>> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level
>>>>>> would
>>>>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
>>>>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
>>>>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
>>>>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs
>>>>>> dry.
>>>>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston
>>>> rings.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ?Hi Patrick,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it
>> on
>>>>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
>>>>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
>>>>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
>>>>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
>>>>>>> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some
>>>>>> engine
>>>>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the
>>>> compression.
>>>>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.
>>>> If
>>>>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage
>> issues.
>>>>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
>>>>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck
>> piston
>>>>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
>>>>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
>>>>>>> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently
>>>> crank
>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start
>>>> the
>>>>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down
>>>> and
>>>>>>> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I
>>>> don't
>>>>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck
>> piston
>>>>>>> rings.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
>>>>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase
>> breather
>>>>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of
>> the
>>>>>>> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never
>> needed
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I
>> doubt
>>>>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.
>>>>>> However, I
>>>>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be
>>>>>> clogged.
>>>>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to
>>>> verify
>>>>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
>> of
>>>>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
>>>>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Patrick,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you
>>>> would
>>>>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the
>>>> engine
>>>>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
>>>>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out
>> of
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the
>>>> air
>>>>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can
>>>>>> become
>>>>>>> saturated with oil.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using
>> the
>>>>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not
>>>> stuck)
>>>>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
>>>>>>> combustion path.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>>>>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>>>>>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
>> Of
>>>>>>> PBR
>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
>>>>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Hello all.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few
>>>>>> years.
>>>>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
>>>>>>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but
>>>> always
>>>>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
>>>>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a
>>>> bit
>>>>>>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke
>> at
>>>>>>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put
>>>> the
>>>>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it
>> again.
>>>>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me
>> curious
>>>>>>> but not constant at all speeds.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake
>>>>>> (clean
>>>>>>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent
>> clog*
>>>>>> or
>>>>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck
>>>> valve?* (
>>>>>>> but runs pretty good)
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I
>> hate
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less
>>>>>> than
>>>>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
>>>>>>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the
>>>>>> cowling
>>>>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
>>>>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
>>>>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not
>>>> sure
>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Patrick
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 

From cp.boyce at comcast.net  Sat Jun 29 20:20:15 2024
From: cp.boyce at comcast.net (cp.boyce)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2024 17:20:15 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288862149D9B0D352859E3D80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <NiIisjZ6aeLWONiIjsezUg.1719706818.ae2cae9a746d06bc69c0e2f4afd53407.MISSINGID@comcast.net>

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> Date: 6/29/24  15:14  (GMT-08:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb Patrick,I?m glad I was able to help.Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 1978? Sanford, MISent from my iPhone> On Jun 29, 2024, at 5:14?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:> > ?Roger,> Success.? It seems it was a stuck float that started me down this path.> Did not find anything clogging it but cleaning it up appeared to fix> things.? Got it running and the smoking quickly cleared up too.? Now the> only issue is after working perfectly last trip when I was compression> testing, this time the electric start is dead.? Appears to be a stuck relay> which is a part not available anywhere.? Starts easy enough by pulling> the rope for now.? I'll check with a honda stealer for that part I guess.> Thanks for your wise advice.> Patrick> > >> On Wed, Jun 12, 2024 at 11:29?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>>> wrote:>> >> Patrick,>> >> I?m sorry, I tend to skip obvious steps.? Yes,? you have to remove the>> throttle linkage and carb to get to the float bowl.>> >> Roger Pihlaja>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium>> 1978. Sanford, MI>> Sent from my iPhone>> >>>> On Jun 12, 2024, at 11:04?AM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:>>> >>> ?Thanks Roger,>>> Can't access the float bowl screws without removing the carb but.It looks>>> like only two bolts to pull the carb off.??? So i will attempt to clean>> up>>> and unstick the needle next time I get back to boats in a couple of>> weeks.>>> Patrick>>> >>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2024 at 6:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>>> wrote:>>>> >>>> Patrick,>>>> >>>> Assuming the problem is a sticky needle &/or float, you can clean it out>>>> with minimal disassembly:>>>> >>>> Remove the float bowl and fuel line from the carburetor.? Gently move>> the>>>> float.? It should move several mm with little resistance.>>>> >>>> Spray carb cleaner into the fuel line inlet.? You should see carb>> cleaner>>>> dripping out of the needle valve.>>>> >>>> Remove the float and needle valve.? Be careful not to lose the needle>>>> valve seat seal.? Inspect the male part of the needle valve.? Clean off>> any>>>> residual deposits with carb cleaner.? Spray carb cleaner up into the>> needle>>>> valve seat passage.? You should see carb cleaner dripping out of the>> fuel>>>> line inlet.>>>> >>>> Reassemble the carb and reconnect the fuel line.>>>> >>>> Since you suspect the oil is fuel diluted, I recommend changing the oil.>>>> >>>> A compression test of 110 psi isn?t great.? But, the engine should still>>>> run.>>>> >>>> Roger Pihlaja>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI>>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone>>>> >>>>>> On Jun 6, 2024, at 1:06?PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:>>>>> >>>>> ?Roger, et. al.,>>>>> >>>>> Finally had a chance to troubleshoot this issue that began as oil>>>> dripping>>>>> from carb intake and smoking some.>>>>> I can't find any sign of a breather that might be clogged, everything>>>> under>>>>> the hood is pristine clean.>>>>> >>>>> Oil was definitely overfilled.? I drained out about a pint and it still>>>>> shows nearly full.? Golden color difficult to see but by rolling the>>>>> dipstick on a paper towel you could see the top level.? What I drained>>>> out>>>>> also seems to have a viscosity lower than I would expect of pure oil>> and>>>> my>>>>> wife said it smelled of gas.? So, stuck float is or was a most likely>>>>> culprit.>>>>> >>>>> I checked compression and got 110 psi on both cylinders. squirted in>> some>>>>> oil but could not get it to change.? Seems low but could be my 40 year>>>> old>>>>> tester? and me trying to get a good push seal.? So, my rings are>> probably>>>>> not an issue.>>>>> >>>>> So, what next with a sticky float.? I don't want to take the carb apart>>>>> with my skill level and lack of a clean shop to work in.? It may be>> fixed>>>>> already and I was just seeing the after effect of overfilled oil.? I>> have>>>>> the motor on a dolly so I can tip it on it side, tap on stuff etc..? I>>>>> might just try to see if it runs OK before putting in clean oil in case>>>> it>>>>> is still stuck.>>>>> >>>>> Patrick>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:48?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>>>>> wrote:>>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Patrick,>>>>>> >>>>>> I would check the oil level 1st.? On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull>>>>>> both spark plugs when checking the compression.? That way, the starter>>>> will>>>>>> spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.>>>>>> >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium>>>>>> 1978? Sanford, MI>>>>>> ________________________________>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of>>>> PBR>>>>>> <pbryanriley at gmail.com>>>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM>>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb>>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks Roger,>>>>>> I will try all of these suggestions.? I'll keep you all posted but it>>>> might>>>>>> take me a while to find the time.? I do use just ethanol free gas and>> my>>>>>> modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this>> time>>>>>> when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I>>>>>> probably have skipped that a few times.? I have a compression tester>>>> with>>>>>> the rubber insert.? Came with a tune up kit I picked? up about 35>> years>>>> ago>>>>>> so probably american made and still working...? To do this I am>>>> guessing I>>>>>> would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester>>>> in>>>>>> place?? both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8>> cyl>>>>>> engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).>>>>>> >>>>>> I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some>>>>>> sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.>>>>>> >>>>>> Patrick>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>>>>>>> wrote:>>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi Patrick,>>>>>>> >>>>>>> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out>>>> the>>>>>>> carburetor.? Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.? If the>> oil>>>>>>> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in>> the>>>>>>> carburetor.? High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to>>>>>>> contaminate the engine oil.? Eventually, the diluted engine oil level>>>>>> would>>>>>>> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,>>>>>>> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.? A sticky float would be>>>>>>> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.? I always>>>>>>> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs>>>>>> dry.>>>>>>> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston>>>> rings.>>>>>>> >>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium>>>>>>> 1978? Sanford, MI>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>>>>>>> wrote:>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> ?Hi Patrick,>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.? I use it>> on>>>>>>> my Walker Bay RIB.? If you have a compression tester, you can quickly>>>>>>> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.? The factory>>>>>>> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.? If your>>>>>>> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and>>>>>>> valves are OK.? If the compression values are low; then, squirt some>>>>>> engine>>>>>>> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the>>>> compression.>>>>>>> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.>>>> If>>>>>>> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage>> issues.>>>>>>> The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.>>>>>>> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck>> piston>>>>>>> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.? Drain out about ? the>>>>>>> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil>>>>>>> Treatment.? Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently>>>> crank>>>>>> it>>>>>>> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.? The next day, start>>>> the>>>>>>> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.? Then, shut it down>>>> and>>>>>>> change the oil.? Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.? I>>>> don't>>>>>>> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck>> piston>>>>>>> rings.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the>>>>>>> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.? The crankcase>> breather>>>>>>> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of>> the>>>>>>> engine.? I've never had my breather cover off because I've never>> needed>>>>>> to>>>>>>> get in there.? However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I>> doubt>>>>>>> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.>>>>>> However, I>>>>>>> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be>>>>>> clogged.>>>>>>> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to>>>> verify>>>>>>> that the plumbing is free and clear.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.? Good Luck!>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium>>>>>>>> 1978? Sanford, MI>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> ________________________________>>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf>> of>>>>>>> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM>>>>>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Patrick,>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you>>>> would>>>>>>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the>>>> engine>>>>>>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.>>>>>>> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out>> of>>>>>> the>>>>>>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the>>>> air>>>>>>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can>>>>>> become>>>>>>> saturated with oil.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using>> the>>>>>>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not>>>> stuck)>>>>>>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the>>>>>>> combustion path.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mike>>>>>>>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)>>>>>>>> Nissequogue River, NY>>>>>>>> I?d rather be sailing :~)>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -----Original Message----->>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf>> Of>>>>>>> PBR>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM>>>>>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hello all.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.? that has been mostly sitting for a few>>>>>> years.>>>>>>>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter>>>>>>> untouched (2018).? Since then I have not used it on the water but>>>> always>>>>>>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully>>>>>>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a>>>> bit>>>>>>> with the water hose.? Always started easy and ran good.? Some smoke>> at>>>>>>> first but not enough to concern me.? This time as I was about to put>>>> the>>>>>>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it>> again.>>>>>>>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me>> curious>>>>>>> but not constant at all speeds.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake>>>>>> (clean>>>>>>> golden oil).? Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent>> clog*>>>>>> or>>>>>>> something rather than just frozen rings.? Any thoughts?? *Stuck>>>> valve?* (>>>>>>> but runs pretty good)>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I>> hate>>>>>> to>>>>>>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less>>>>>> than>>>>>>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.? Hoping for a miracle>>>>>>> solution.? Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the>>>>>> cowling>>>>>>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the>>>>>>> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try>>>>>>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.? Not>>>> sure>>>>>> of>>>>>>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Patrick>>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 21:10:34 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 01:10:34 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How does my mast jack work?
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT1NqJaCR0xMXQdXAMb5_MnYUrvF-6tcSb+mgsE=2Wbx-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB42886F565EF740C312843C2580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288AAB58D156DE570F8902580D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABvjUT1NqJaCR0xMXQdXAMb5_MnYUrvF-6tcSb+mgsE=2Wbx-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288577C5BF632CBC92662F980D22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Let?s see, you would have to disconnect the backstays and the aft lower side stays at their chainplates.  The forward lower side stays would stay connected and the forestay + roller furler would remain tied off to the mast.  The backward rotation of the mast would be stopped by the forward lower side stays .  Port/starboard tipping of the masthead during mast stepping would be limited by the upper side stays.  Once the mast was raised, I would attach the back stays, then the forestay, and finally the forward lower side stays.  Then, you could disconnect the halyard and remove the gin pole.  I can picture the process working slick as a whistle.  So, next question, does the bottom of the gin pole fit into the table socket in the cockpit and are the guy lines sized to secure the gin pole in an upright position?

Please understand I?ve never actually seen your mast raising system in operation.  I?m just picturing how it might work in my mind.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 5:47?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Oh, that's a strange idea but maybe yeah. Literally backwards gin pole, I
> can take some closeup pictures of the pole but, what you see is what you
> get. And there is no socket or anything like that forward of the tabernacle
> just, putting that out there.
>
>> On Sat, Jun 29, 2024, 5:41?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> By any chance, does your mast raising system work ?backwards??  ie, Start
>> with the mast bolted into the tabernacle and lying forward resting on the
>> bow pulpit.  Then, winch the mast up backwards using a halyard led to the
>> gin pole and winch?  The guy lines on the gin pole would still be rigged to
>> hold the gin pole vertical.  I can see how this strategy would work using
>> only the pieces/parts in the photo.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jun 29, 2024, at 4:25?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Hi Kenwood,
>>>
>>> The male pin and tabernacle in the picture looks like it?s designed to
>> plug into the cockpit socket for the galley table.  The guy lines look like
>> they would attach to the stern cleats and the winches port and starboard
>> and would hold the gin pole vertical.  Do you have a block that attaches to
>> the forestay?  It looks like you would run a halyard to the block on the
>> bow forestay, then back to the block on the end of the gin pole, and down
>> to the winch.
>>>
>>> This is very different from the mast raising system on my boat.  On my
>> boat, the base of the gin pole attaches to a fitting on the leading edge of
>> the cabin roof.  The forward lower side stays are attached to the gin pole
>> near the upper end.  The winch line on the gin pole runs to the bow cleat.
>> To step the mast, the gin pole starts vertical and pivots downward from its
>> base towards the bow as the mast is winched upward.
>>>
>>> Stan went thru a number of different versions of the mast stepping
>> system.  You must have an early version.
>>>
>>> Never having used your system, I can?t comment on how well it works.  I
>> think I have the newest version and it works pretty well.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:39?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ?All the reading I've done online talks about a ginpole but... Mine
>> doesn't
>>>> rly look like that? It has a socket and foot that looks like it's.meant
>> to
>>>> socket into the cockpit. I don't understand! I was planning on
>> dismantling
>>>> the whole thing and turning it into a ginpole by removing the foot and
>>>> adding a rubber plate. What do you all think though? Is this simpler to
>> use
>>>> than I think?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: 1000010139.jpg
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 4255876 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240629/1f3a2d4c/attachment.jpg
>>>
>>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 21:48:44 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 01:48:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288A062154A1D50BC6A5D0E80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPQvPRr8+a__-S61Am76iVjXrv8m8xPisq6_k4EdvUs1gccBQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB428889DC53BE72D114B7FFFD80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <PH7PR12MB81536B04D66A435DC11DA2B6F5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288A062154A1D50BC6A5D0E80D12@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB815373E62A38F888F9B93520F5D22@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks Roger. In my case the trailer has upright posts only at the ends of the bunk. The bunks  still have the proper shape and I am planning to replace them only because of some splits that are occurring in the wood.

I am thinking that I will use the old bunks as templates for the new ones insofar as the placement of the bolts. Before removing the bunks I will measure from the frame to the bunk where the bunk curve is at its lowest point. The brackets on the posts have elongated holes which I assume would allow me to install the bunks with loose bolts, and then down the bunk to the appropriate shape before tightening the bolts. My concern is whether the board will conform properly.



Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 3:06 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement

Graham,

I am assuming your current bunks are already the correct shape.  On my Lil Dude boat trailer, there are 4 vertical uprights that support each of the bunks.  Each upright has slots that enable the vertical position of the bunks at that station to be adjusted.  Since my bunks were a good fit, I did not have to adjust any of those uprights.  Before you remove the old bunks, measure the overall length, the front overhang, and the rear overhang.  Cut the new bunks to the measured overall length.  Place the new bunks on top of the uprights and adjust the front and rear overhangs.  Using either a long bar clamp or a strap tie down, pull the middle of the bunks down until the bunks touch the two middle uprights.  Check your front and rear overhang dimensions and that the uprights are centered on the bunks.  Starting with the two center uprights, drill and thru bolt the bunks with galvanized carriage bolts.  Then, drill and thru bolt the bunks at the two outer uprights.  By starting from the center and working towards the ends, the bunks will automatically assume the correct shape.  Once the bunks have been thru bolted, you can staple your carpeting or whatever material you?ve decided to use.

I?ve never had to set up a new boat trailer from scratch.  So, I?d have to sit down and think about it if your present bunks don?t already fit your hull.  There?s probably an easy way to do it, I?ve just never had any experience with a new trailer.  I might go to a local boat dealer and ask in the boat delivery prep shop how they set up a new trailer.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:03?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Thanks Roger:
> As you will see in my response to Peter, I would like to avoid using carpeting altogether by making slip pads from composite deck skirting - which I have on hand.
>
> What I am unsure about is how I prepare the bunks with the shape of the hull set in them. How did you do that when you changed your bunks?
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 1:54 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
>
> Graham,
>
> I used PT 2x6?s when I redid my trailer?s bunks back in 1990.  They are still serviceable after about 34 years, although the carpeting is getting pretty worn.  I recommend you use a spade bit to counterbore the surface of the bunks so that the heads of the carriage bolts will be below the surface.  This will prevent the heads from scratching or denting the hull.  Use galvanized carriage bolts.  Use SS or monel staples to attach the carpeting.  C steel staples will leave rust stains on your boat and trailer.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 28, 2024, at 10:49?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
>> with it so far.
>>
>> Cary
>> S/V Whisper 86
>>>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
>>> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
>>> something else?
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Rhodes 22
>>> Agile, 1976
>>>
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>>>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Jun 29 21:57:47 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 01:57:47 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk as replacement
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288C9BB63F82D033171B2AF80D22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Graham,

If your bunks are only supported in two places, couldn?t you just leave the carriage bolts snug and run the boat up on the trailer?  The weight of the boat should cause the bunks to assume the appropriate shape.  Then you could tighten up the carriage bolts.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978.  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 9:48?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
> ?Thanks Roger. In my case the trailer has upright posts only at the ends of the bunk. The bunks  still have the proper shape and I am planning to replace them only because of some splits that are occurring in the wood.
> 
> I am thinking that I will use the old bunks as templates for the new ones insofar as the placement of the bolts. Before removing the bunks I will measure from the frame to the bunk where the bunk curve is at its lowest point. The brackets on the posts have elongated holes which I assume would allow me to install the bunks with loose bolts, and then down the bunk to the appropriate shape before tightening the bolts. My concern is whether the board will conform properly.
> 
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 3:06 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
> 
> Graham,
> 
> I am assuming your current bunks are already the correct shape.  On my Lil Dude boat trailer, there are 4 vertical uprights that support each of the bunks.  Each upright has slots that enable the vertical position of the bunks at that station to be adjusted.  Since my bunks were a good fit, I did not have to adjust any of those uprights.  Before you remove the old bunks, measure the overall length, the front overhang, and the rear overhang.  Cut the new bunks to the measured overall length.  Place the new bunks on top of the uprights and adjust the front and rear overhangs.  Using either a long bar clamp or a strap tie down, pull the middle of the bunks down until the bunks touch the two middle uprights.  Check your front and rear overhang dimensions and that the uprights are centered on the bunks.  Starting with the two center uprights, drill and thru bolt the bunks with galvanized carriage bolts.  Then, drill and thru bolt the bunks at the two outer uprights.  By starting from the center and working towards the ends, the bunks will automatically assume the correct shape.  Once the bunks have been thru bolted, you can staple your carpeting or whatever material you?ve decided to use.
> 
> I?ve never had to set up a new boat trailer from scratch.  So, I?d have to sit down and think about it if your present bunks don?t already fit your hull.  There?s probably an easy way to do it, I?ve just never had any experience with a new trailer.  I might go to a local boat dealer and ask in the boat delivery prep shop how they set up a new trailer.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:03?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Thanks Roger:
>> As you will see in my response to Peter, I would like to avoid using carpeting altogether by making slip pads from composite deck skirting - which I have on hand.
>> 
>> What I am unsure about is how I prepare the bunks with the shape of the hull set in them. How did you do that when you changed your bunks?
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 1:54 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
>> 
>> Graham,
>> 
>> I used PT 2x6?s when I redid my trailer?s bunks back in 1990.  They are still serviceable after about 34 years, although the carpeting is getting pretty worn.  I recommend you use a spade bit to counterbore the surface of the bunks so that the heads of the carriage bolts will be below the surface.  This will prevent the heads from scratching or denting the hull.  Use galvanized carriage bolts.  Use SS or monel staples to attach the carpeting.  C steel staples will leave rust stains on your boat and trailer.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 28, 2024, at 10:49?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> ?Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
>>> with it so far.
>>> Cary
>>> S/V Whisper 86
>>>>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
>>>> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
>>>> something else?
>>>> Thanks.
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> Rhodes 22
>>>> Agile, 1976
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sat Jun 29 21:58:44 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 01:58:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <CAEqJHY4QQHfTLUMNN-jLG+4hWfKqPNLL_r1AVoGJVhP6nxnNGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <PH7PR12MB815300ACD656E796F069508CF5D12@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAEqJHY4QQHfTLUMNN-jLG+4hWfKqPNLL_r1AVoGJVhP6nxnNGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB8153CA7110DE63E853BAB484F5D22@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks Tom. I like the idea of using galvanizing paint at important places.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2024 10:47 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement

I used this and it worked great.  Do make sure to spend some time pre
bending them.  I used cinder blocks. Make sure to keep enough length.....
Also i got new carpets and stainless steel staples.

Grab a galvanizing paint can while you're in there ..

Tight sails,

On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 9:43 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

>
>  am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
> something else?
> Thanks.
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
>
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sun Jun 30 11:00:16 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 15:00:16 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk as replacement
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288C9BB63F82D033171B2AF80D22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB4288C9BB63F82D033171B2AF80D22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <SJ2PR12MB8159538F868C4497B0DEA7C6F5D22@SJ2PR12MB8159.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Roger:Yes, I was thinking that might work as well. Maybe a combination of givinfg it some shape and then using the oat for a final fit.
Thanks for your sage advice.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 9:57 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk as replacement

Graham,

If your bunks are only supported in two places, couldn?t you just leave the carriage bolts snug and run the boat up on the trailer?  The weight of the boat should cause the bunks to assume the appropriate shape.  Then you could tighten up the carriage bolts.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978.  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2024, at 9:48?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
> ?Thanks Roger. In my case the trailer has upright posts only at the ends of the bunk. The bunks  still have the proper shape and I am planning to replace them only because of some splits that are occurring in the wood.
>
> I am thinking that I will use the old bunks as templates for the new ones insofar as the placement of the bolts. Before removing the bunks I will measure from the frame to the bunk where the bunk curve is at its lowest point. The brackets on the posts have elongated holes which I assume would allow me to install the bunks with loose bolts, and then down the bunk to the appropriate shape before tightening the bolts. My concern is whether the board will conform properly.
>
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 3:06 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
>
> Graham,
>
> I am assuming your current bunks are already the correct shape.  On my Lil Dude boat trailer, there are 4 vertical uprights that support each of the bunks.  Each upright has slots that enable the vertical position of the bunks at that station to be adjusted.  Since my bunks were a good fit, I did not have to adjust any of those uprights.  Before you remove the old bunks, measure the overall length, the front overhang, and the rear overhang.  Cut the new bunks to the measured overall length.  Place the new bunks on top of the uprights and adjust the front and rear overhangs.  Using either a long bar clamp or a strap tie down, pull the middle of the bunks down until the bunks touch the two middle uprights.  Check your front and rear overhang dimensions and that the uprights are centered on the bunks.  Starting with the two center uprights, drill and thru bolt the bunks with galvanized carriage bolts.  Then, drill and thru bolt the bunks at the two outer uprights.  By starting from the center and working towards the ends, the bunks will automatically assume the correct shape.  Once the bunks have been thru bolted, you can staple your carpeting or whatever material you?ve decided to use.
>
> I?ve never had to set up a new boat trailer from scratch.  So, I?d have to sit down and think about it if your present bunks don?t already fit your hull.  There?s probably an easy way to do it, I?ve just never had any experience with a new trailer.  I might go to a local boat dealer and ask in the boat delivery prep shop how they set up a new trailer.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 29, 2024, at 2:03?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?Thanks Roger:
>> As you will see in my response to Peter, I would like to avoid using carpeting altogether by making slip pads from composite deck skirting - which I have on hand.
>>
>> What I am unsure about is how I prepare the bunks with the shape of the hull set in them. How did you do that when you changed your bunks?
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 1:54 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
>>
>> Graham,
>>
>> I used PT 2x6?s when I redid my trailer?s bunks back in 1990.  They are still serviceable after about 34 years, although the carpeting is getting pretty worn.  I recommend you use a spade bit to counterbore the surface of the bunks so that the heads of the carriage bolts will be below the surface.  This will prevent the heads from scratching or denting the hull.  Use galvanized carriage bolts.  Use SS or monel staples to attach the carpeting.  C steel staples will leave rust stains on your boat and trailer.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jun 28, 2024, at 10:49?PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> ?Graham, that is what I used about 9 years ago. I have had no problems
>>> with it so far.
>>> Cary
>>> S/V Whisper 86
>>>>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2024, 10:43?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> am planning to replace the bunks on my trailer and was planning to use
>>>> 2x6 pressure treated pine. Does anyone know of a reason why I sould  use
>>>> something else?
>>>> Thanks.
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> Rhodes 22
>>>> Agile, 1976
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> gstewart.gm at gmail.com

From cknell at vt.edu  Sun Jun 30 11:28:33 2024
From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 11:28:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2255.1719699290.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
References: <mailman.2255.1719699290.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Message-ID: <1dba72ea-3705-40d4-826a-0c164bf02135@vt.edu>

Graham,

I also have only upright posts at the ends of my bunks. A few years ago 
one of my bunk planks started splitting. I considered replacing the 
bunk. However since I only use the trailer twice a year (once to put in 
and once to pull out) and only travel about 2 miles to the boat ramp I 
was not sure I wanted go through the trouble. Instead I reinforced the 
plank on the bottom side under the split with a piece of pressure 
treated 1 x 6 after clamping the split closed. I'm not sure that I would 
rely on this if traveling a great distance, but for my use, I suspect 
the repair will be sufficient.

Chris

*Graham Stewart*gstewart.gm at gmail.com 
<mailto:rhodes22-list%40rhodes22.org?Subject=Re%3A%20%5BRhodes22-list%5D%20Trailer%20bunk%20replacement&In-Reply-To=%3CPH7PR12MB815373E62A38F888F9B93520F5D22%40PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com%3E>
/Sat Jun 29 21:48:44 EDT 2024/

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks Roger. In my case the trailer has upright posts only at the ends of the bunk. The bunks  still have the proper shape and I am planning to replace them only because of some splits that are occurring in the wood.

I am thinking that I will use the old bunks as templates for the new ones insofar as the placement of the bolts. Before removing the bunks I will measure from the frame to the bunk where the bunk curve is at its lowest point. The brackets on the posts have elongated holes which I assume would allow me to install the bunks with loose bolts, and then down the bunk to the appropriate shape before tightening the bolts. My concern is whether the board will conform properly.



Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sun Jun 30 11:59:57 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2024 15:59:57 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement
In-Reply-To: <1dba72ea-3705-40d4-826a-0c164bf02135@vt.edu>
References: <mailman.2255.1719699290.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
 <1dba72ea-3705-40d4-826a-0c164bf02135@vt.edu>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB8153311CA377E818D91230E2F5D22@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks Chris. Once I remove the carpeting, I will have a better idea of the condition of the bunks and if they are generally ok might well do as you have done but with the addition of the composite strips.. My use of the trailer is almost identical to yours.


Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2024 11:28 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement

Graham,

I also have only upright posts at the ends of my bunks. A few years ago
one of my bunk planks started splitting. I considered replacing the
bunk. However since I only use the trailer twice a year (once to put in
and once to pull out) and only travel about 2 miles to the boat ramp I
was not sure I wanted go through the trouble. Instead I reinforced the
plank on the bottom side under the split with a piece of pressure
treated 1 x 6 after clamping the split closed. I'm not sure that I would
rely on this if traveling a great distance, but for my use, I suspect
the repair will be sufficient.

Chris

*Graham Stewart*gstewart.gm at gmail.com
<mailto:rhodes22-list%40rhodes22.org?Subject=Re%3A%20%5BRhodes22-list%5D%20Trailer%20bunk%20replacement&In-Reply-To=%3CPH7PR12MB815373E62A38F888F9B93520F5D22%40PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com%3E>
/Sat Jun 29 21:48:44 EDT 2024/

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Thanks Roger. In my case the trailer has upright posts only at the ends of the bunk. The bunks  still have the proper shape and I am planning to replace them only because of some splits that are occurring in the wood.

I am thinking that I will use the old bunks as templates for the new ones insofar as the placement of the bolts. Before removing the bunks I will measure from the frame to the bunk where the bunk curve is at its lowest point. The brackets on the posts have elongated holes which I assume would allow me to install the bunks with loose bolts, and then down the bunk to the appropriate shape before tightening the bolts. My concern is whether the board will conform properly.



Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1976