[Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Mon Oct 14 12:02:52 EDT 2024

Roger,

I have attached the pictures I meant to include with the prior email.  I misinterpreted your prior email--I thought you were suggesting that the old chainplate could be removed from within the access hole.

Your response confirms what I was going to attempt, which is to cut off the old chainplate through the slot in the cabin top.  I had planned to use a cordless multitool instead of a Dremel, but I'll keep the Dremel option in mind.  

I can see that I will be able to easily through-bolt the new chainplate using the access hole.  I am planning on epoxying a G10 backing plate to the inside wall of the cabin in addition to fender washers.  Do you think that is overkill?

Thanks again,

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2024 6:50 PM
To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?

Hi Mike,

Both of your attached photos were of a straight SS chainplate.  It looks like it will work fine.  If it’s too long; then, cut to length.  I just removed the SS cover on the opening where the chainplate exits the cabin roof.  I was able to use an abrasive cut off wheel on a Dremel moto tool to cut off the old chainplate enough to slide the new chainplate past it thru the same slot.  If you don’t think that’s going to work on your boat; then, please send some pictures.  I also don’t understand why the new deck inspection plate doesn’t give you access to the backside of the chainplate?  Please send a picture.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 13, 2024, at 12:16 PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Roger,
>
> I have finally gotten around to this project.  I cut a hole in the inside cabin wall sized for the deckplate that will eventually cover it (see attached photo.)  Unfortunately, this does hole not give me any access to remove the old chainplate. Was your configuration different than mine, or am I missing something?
>
> I plan to epoxy a ¼” G10 (fiberglass/epoxy) backing plate inside the outer wall of the cabin and though-bolt the new chainplate to the outer wall.  Cosmetically, I’d rather have the new chainplate inserted through the slot where the old chainplate is, but that requires removing that part of the old chainplate first.
>
> Unless you have another option to suggest, I am going to try cutting off the protruding portion of the old chainplates with a multitool inserted through the slot on top of the cabin.  It that isn’t doable, I’ll trim it flush and just bolt the new chainplate to the outside of the cabin.
>
> I am documenting the steps and materials I am using and will post that to the list.  I found a Ronstan chainplate that is virtually identical to the Rhodes OEM part except for being 2” longer (https://atlanticriggingsupply.com/products/roch16ga208l?variant=17547140333614 <https://atlanticriggingsupply.com/products/roch16ga208l?variant=17547140333614&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3624BhBAEiwAkxgTOokHnONhod708mwSxS7JQDkABFLyrLt1Lg5eVFrqJT8XMNpL9oNZGBoCeBAQAvD_BwE> &currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3624BhBAEiwAkxgTOokHnONhod708mwSxS7JQDkABFLyrLt1Lg5eVFrqJT8XMNpL9oNZGBoCeBAQAvD_BwE)
>
> Thanks once again for all your help,
>
> Mike
>
>
> Mike McKay
> s/v Liber (2006/2018)
> Allatoona Lake
> Acworth, GA
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
> On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:00 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the Beckson inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!   From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old chain plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar stock and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.  The new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46 PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
>
> Roger and Todd,
>
> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I understand
> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding anything.
>
> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood inside
> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the old
> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's case,
> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you need to
> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
>
> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.  Was
> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
>
> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of the
> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing plate.
> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as an
> inspection port.
>
> Is the above description correct?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.  Remove
> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new chainplate
> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru the
> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy peasy,
> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do all 4
> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine screws
> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4 Beckson
> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.  But, you
> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever you
> want.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Roger Pihlaja
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to open up
> the cabin liner?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER
> PIHLAJA
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi All,
>
> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987 were
> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into the
> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W, Defender
> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With these
> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates thru
> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do not
> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded component,
> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do this
> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham
> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place with
> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached a
> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a section of
> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to create a
> large hole.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Rhodes 22
> Agile, 1976
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
>
> Hi Rhodies,
>
> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
>
> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the inside.
>
> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Mike McKay
> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> Allatoona Lake, GA
>
>
>
>
> Michael McKay
> (630) 209-2054 (m)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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