UPS Sail Color Test Template (500+ KB) – this is just an uncolored bitmap of the sail from the order form. Download it and apply the RGB values from the available color bitmap to the “paint can” fill tool in MS Paint. You can then to fill each area of the sail with the desired color. Low-tech, but it works.

Tom Deliberto’s UPS Sail

Click here to read the various emails in which Tom describes the sail and the installation

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Sail description emails

10/8/02

hi mary lou
go to doylesails.com...under cruising sails....the sail is a compromise as
all things are when your a single handed cruiser.....you need a pad eye on
the deck about 4 inches aft of the forestay and a halyard to hoist it...it
comes with a harken furler and furls on its own luff...very easy to store and
is very lighweight like a spin...the differences are that it is smaller than
a spin but larger and lighter than the 175..you can tack with it or jibe...if
the wind picks up you just furl it and drop it on the deck and roll out your
normal headsail...i use a biradial 150...also doyle...its range is 8kts of
wind on a close reach...13 kts on a beam reach and 18 kts on a run....mine
was made by doyle on long island and they did a wonderful job....doug has a
picture of the pad eye which he said he would post....ill try to get a
picture of the sail and the furler but you can see that on the website...if
you have any specific questions just post them ill be happy to answer what i
can...sorry ill miss you at the show...were going on saturday....happy sailing
best
tom

10/8/02

hi mary lou
just as a side note...the carribean loft wouldnt make the sail...but they
made my 150 and im not at all satisfied with the workmanship
best
tom

10/8/02

hi mary lou
im new to the rhodes and have never sailed a boat this light or this tender
so im a bit timid with the amount of sail i have up...usually starting small
and working my way up....ive used the ups about 8 times which is about 1/3 of
my sailing time..im sure ill use it more as time goes by..the downsides for
me are that you have to rig it beforehand and if your wrong it just lays
around on the deck...it can be rigged underway but singlehanding doesnt lend
itself to that for me... note its not like a spin which is forward of the
forestay...its aft of the forestay so you cant raise it and use your jib...
you also have 2 sets of sheets which you have to keep untangled ....usually
only a problem in the beginning ....the extra furler works fine with the
nicro fan....i also have one..when doug posts the pad eye picture you will
see it fits fine...the furler is only about 2 1/2 inches in diameter...as for
the jib i use the cdi which has been fine ...neither unit has failed or
fouled....the ups can be used without the furler but i dont thinki could
handle that alone without a sock..the furler cost 250 as i recall..i forgot
to mention i also put a halyard restrainer on the mast to prevent possible
halyard wrap...so far so good....what the ad says is true...it allows you to
sail when you would normally give up and start the motor...hope this helps
best
tom

10/8/02

hi rik
the luff is rope so it folds easily and stores in a sailbag that i keep under
the starboard gunnel..the cost was 1050 with the furler....i forget what stan
charged for the pad eye and the restrainer and halyard installation
best
tom

10/8/02

hi todd
ups is utility purpose sail....used to be called an mps ..multi purpose sail
in the old days...go to doylesails.com..its under cruising sails
best
tom

10/28/02

hi
first the important issue..mary lou..mine is green yellow and white and looks
beautiful
doug has the shot of the pad eye and said he would post it when he has a
chance
stan installed it so he would have to comment on how that was done....i
usually set the sail before i leave...only once was i wrong about the wind
but thats luck..what i do is furl it and drop it ...it falls on the
deck..then i walk into the cabin and grab the halyard and secure it while
still attached to the sail...the other end of the halyard runs through a cam
cleat.....if i need it again i just raise it and unfurl it...as for the
sheets...i use a separate set for each because i dont want to go on deck to
change it and the sheets for the ups are half the size of the genny...yes it
does get a little confusing as to where they go because the set youre using
has to be on top so you have to play with it but this can be done from the
cockpit and is not a problem after a couple of tries...lastly you can go wing
and wing with it and the genny but in really light air i found it more
trouble than its worth because the genny keeps collapsing...it needs a pole
and i dont like to leave the cockpit....i usually use the main but with imf
it is pretty useless
.....has anyone tried to do a wing and wing with the imf main letting out
the furling line instead of the mainsheet...i havent tried it and am still
thinking about what can go wrong..
best to all
tom

11/12/02

hi jay
mark kaynor emailed that he would post the pictures...if they are not to your
satisfaction let me know and ill send you a set...as for boat
modifications..stan made those and there are three...first a pad eye aft of
the genny and a snap shackle to connect it to the harken furler, second a
halyard restrainer on the mast and third a block on the deck to lead the
halyard aft...note that this last modification will probably differ depending
on the current set up of the mast...my boat is a 2002 and this is all that
was needed...the furling gear comes with the sail or can be purchased
directly from harken on line...its item no. 3029...i paid 238.35 at
harkenstore.com....as for quantity discount...all i can say is two
things..first when i told stan i wanted the sail i was told to get it on my
own..i dont know if stan didnt want to do it or doyle offshore didnt want to
do it but i went to doyle long island in huntington and they did and
excellent job.....second i had doyle offshore make my 150..(i dont use a
175)..and am not pleased with the workmanship and may have it recut during
the offseason if i cant get it right in these last weeks of the season here
in maryland....thats with them charging me 250 over the cost of the standard
175...(its a biradial with nonstandard fabric)....perhaps with stan sitting
on them with this special order they will improve the quality but i would
want some workmanship guarantee and quick turnaround on on returns because i
have a feeling there might be some...all doyle lofts are independently owned
and are not the same...even though the information they have is the
same...the specifications for this sail were developed between doyle long
island and me and they will differ for each boat depending on where you wish
to set your sheet blocks.....i was sent a sheet of measurements that were
needed which im sure would be available to all lofts or i can send them to
you but again these may change depending on the location of your blocks
if you need anything else let me know
tom

11/14/02

hi mary lou
god i wish i had rogers ability to explain things but this is my best
shot.....you may not need a restrainer..it depends on the configuration of
the masthead...at some point on the masthead you need a block for the
halyard....i had a spare sheeve because i use a cdi furler..if you use a jib
halyard thats not built in you probably dont have a spare sheeve...so if you
have the spare sheeve the halyard will come out of the mast at the very
top...i felt this was too close to the forestay since the sail is to be flown
inside the forestay...so i asked stan to put a restrainer on the mast which
would give me maximum luff but keep the sail and upper swivel of the furling
unit away from the forestay.....maybe im nuts and i did not discuss this with
doyle because they dont know the boat anyway...i just had a fear of having a
loose sail luff so close to the genny and the forestay...now if you dont have
a spare sheeve you must attach a block to the masthead for the halyard....the
positioning of that block will take the place of the restrainer....the
restrainer does not inhibit the the operation of the sail and i havent had a
problem..where it is placed or where you put your halyard block will affect
the luff length of the sail...again this was a personal hangup,
i am not trained in engineering or physics..it just didnt look right to
me...if more people buy the sail and use different configurations ..im sure
with the minds on this list a better mousetrap will be built...but you have
to start someplace
i hope this helps
best
tom

11/14/02

hi ed
i cant address what mark or tom can do so ill leave that answer to them...the
sail weight is .9 oz...the fabric is similar to a spin...note the point in
front of the 9...and yes you can go wing and wing with the genny...i use a
150 and assume the 175 will work too...the only caution is to watch those
sheets...you may have to go forward to untangle them..what i usually do is
put both sheets for each sail on one side...i unfurl the sail and then pull
the loose sheet to the burdened side...lastly..i dont have a trailer so i
cant visit but look forward to meeting youall in the future...how far are
youall from hartsville..ill be visiting my daughter there over thanksgiving
best
tom

11/15/02

hi wally
the furler is not used for reefing..if the wind gets that high i would use my
genny..ive been told by doyle that the max windspeeds with the sail are 8kts
on a close reach, 12kts on a beam reach and 18kts on a run...as for flying it
without a furler...its possible but would require someone on the
foredeck...it may be possible to use a sock with it but ive never used one
and im not sure of the room needed at the masthead for the sock since the
sail is inside the forestay....perhaps someone with a sock can comment on
that...hope this helps
best
tom

11/15/02

hi mark
sorry but i dont have the demensions but the sail is 240 sq ft..i dont know
the size of the 175...the shape is different than the 175 as the belly is
higher and of course its lighter weight and uses smaller sheets so its easier
to fill in light air...the restrainer is about 6 inches down the mast
best
tom

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