[Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes
Steve
rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Wed, 21 Aug 2002 05:57:01 -0700 (PDT)
I don't use a guage but Roger is right on the tuning.
I wouldn't try tighting the mast when the boat is on
the trailer. The boat generally won't sit level on
the trailer. Just get the mast up and hand tighten
everything till you get it to your slip. Then tune
your mast. The halyard trick works but I fine that
sighting up the mast track will give you a better idea
if the mast is stright.
Steve
(s/v Vista Jay)
<DIV></DIV>From: "Roger Pihlaja"
<CEN09402@CENTURYTEL.NET>
<DIV></DIV>Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
<DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension
<DIV></DIV>Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Jack,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I
use:
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>The 1st thing you want to do is measure the
length of the forestay on center
<DIV></DIV>from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard
mainsail, Rhodes 22, this measurement
<DIV></DIV>is 333.625 inches. Write this number down
because it is very important.
<DIV></DIV>If your forestay length is more than a
couple of inches different than this,
<DIV></DIV>you might want to reset it 333.625 inches
as a reasonable starting point.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Now step the mast. Take the excess slack
out of the forestay & backstays
<DIV></DIV>with the backstay adjuster. You don't want
things real tight at this point.
<DIV></DIV>All upper & lower sidestays should be
slack. Go to the base of the mast,
<DIV></DIV>pull a halyard taut along the mast &
sight up the mast from the rear & from
<DIV></DIV>the side. Any deviation from a straight
mast will show up as a gap between
<DIV></DIV>the mast & the halyard. There should be
no observable bend or bowing in the
<DIV></DIV>mast. If there is, the mast may have been
dropped & bent at some point or
<DIV></DIV>may have some other problem. You should
call Stan at GBI & he will be able
<DIV></DIV>to help you work out your problem.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The
model 91 is the appropriate range
<DIV></DIV>for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always
measure the tension at the same
<DIV></DIV>relative position on each shroud every
time. On Dynamic Equilibrium, I
<DIV></DIV>have marked these measurement points with
little spots of paint on the
<DIV></DIV>wire right at my eye level.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>The upper sidestays are adjusted next.
Raise a tape measure up the mast on
<DIV></DIV>a halyard. Measure to the same point on
each side of the boat. I like to
<DIV></DIV>use the edge of the toerail right next to
the sidestay. Tighten the
<DIV></DIV>turnbuckles a little at a time on each side
to adjust the upper sidestays
<DIV></DIV>until both sides are the same length +/-
1/4" & tensioned to approximately
<DIV></DIV>300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the
top of the mast is centered in
<DIV></DIV>the boat & the upper sidestays are
tensioned equally port & starboard.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>What you do next depends upon whether your
boat has the IMF mainsail or a
<DIV></DIV>conventional mainsail.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the
4 lower sidestays so they were
<DIV></DIV>all approximately the same tension. I would
start with approximately 200
<DIV></DIV>lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a
lot of shroud tension. Check for
<DIV></DIV>mast straightness with the halyard again.
You want the mast to be straight
<DIV></DIV>in order for the IMF furling mechanism
inside of it to be able to turn
<DIV></DIV>without binding &/or excessive wear on
the bearings. Minor bending or
<DIV></DIV>bowing can be taken out with the lower
sidestays. However, I would call
<DIV></DIV>Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to
straighten out with a difference
<DIV></DIV>of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I
have a very roachy fully
<DIV></DIV>battened mainsail which has been cut to
respond to mast bend. I have my
<DIV></DIV>backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly
from the cockpit with calibration
<DIV></DIV>marks on the line.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a
little a time on each side to keep
<DIV></DIV>things reasonably centered. I adjust the
forward lower sidestays to 400 lbs
<DIV></DIV>+/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower
sidestays to 200 lbs +/- 5% of tension.
<DIV></DIV>Then, check for mast straightness with the
halyard. Believe it or not, the
<DIV></DIV>standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a
stiff telephone pole that, at 200
<DIV></DIV>lbs differential tension on the lowers,
there will be a barely detectable
<DIV></DIV>fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set
& the backstay adjuster slack.
<DIV></DIV>At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward
sidestays, when the backstay
<DIV></DIV>adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the
upper half of the mast is pulled
<DIV></DIV>towards the stern. The forestay is
tightened & the mast is bent at the same
<DIV></DIV>time. Both actions are exactly what you
want to obtain proper sail shape in
<DIV></DIV>a high wind situation.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Now go out sailing. On a close hauled
course, put up enough sail to heel
<DIV></DIV>the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain
the rudder blade & centerboard
<DIV></DIV>are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the
above tension settings cause the
<DIV></DIV>mast to remain straight & more or less
centered in the boat. The primary
<DIV></DIV>thing to check is the upper sidestays. On
my Rhodes 22 with the above
<DIV></DIV>unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of
heel, the windward upper sidestay
<DIV></DIV>should have about 450 lbs tension & the
leeward upper sidestay should have
<DIV></DIV>about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper
sidestays set-up such that the
<DIV></DIV>leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0
lbs at about 30 degrees of heel.
<DIV></DIV>At this point, the windward upper sidestay
will be under about 600 lbs
<DIV></DIV>tension. Note, normally the stays are
set-up to give proper shroud tension
<DIV></DIV>& the correct amount of weather helm
with full sail set. This tends to
<DIV></DIV>limit the weather window in which you can
do this sort of tuning.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>When all sails are properly trimmed &
the boat is "in the groove", there
<DIV></DIV>should only a slight amount of weather
helm. If there is a huge weather
<DIV></DIV>helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you
need to adjust the rake angle of
<DIV></DIV>the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm;
then increase the forestay
<DIV></DIV>length. To get rid of excessive weather
helm, shorten the forestay. The
<DIV></DIV>balance of the boat is very sensitive to
this mast rake angle, so change it
<DIV></DIV>in increments of about 1/2" at a time.
Note, a slight amount of weather
<DIV></DIV>helm
<DIV></DIV>is desirable because it provides feedback
to the helmsman, thus allowing
<DIV></DIV>him to steer a better course. Excessive
weather helm tends to tire the
<DIV></DIV>helmsman out.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in
place by taping the lock nuts on
<DIV></DIV>the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do
this adjustment once. The
<DIV></DIV>Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little
boat that nothing ever seems to
<DIV></DIV>stretch or bend. I do check the
side-to-side upper sidestay length at the
<DIV></DIV>beginning of every season; but, it's never
changed in the 13+ seasons I've
<DIV></DIV>been measuring it. Trailering set-up only
involves adjusting the lower
<DIV></DIV>sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>As far as rig tension settings on the
trailer vs. off the trailer, I've
<DIV></DIV>found the
<DIV></DIV>only rig tension adjustment that
significantly changes is the backstay
<DIV></DIV>tension.
<DIV></DIV>You can set the tension on the rest of the
standing rigging according to the
<DIV></DIV>above procedure on the trailer. It will be
very close to optimum when you
<DIV></DIV>get the boat in the water, certainly good
enough to do the on-the-water
<DIV></DIV>fine tuning described above.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension
when Dynamic Equilibrium is not
<DIV></DIV>being sailed. As I mentioned above, the
backstay adjuster has sufficient
<DIV></DIV>power to affect the shape of the hull.
Greatly exaggerated, imagine the
<DIV></DIV>ends
<DIV></DIV>of the hull being pulled upward like a 22
foot long banana when the backstay
<DIV></DIV>adjuster is tight! There is no sense
leaving the hull & rig under that kind
<DIV></DIV>of
<DIV></DIV>stress when the boat is not being sailed.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning
helps you. Good luck!
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Roger Pihlaja
<DIV></DIV>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----
<DIV></DIV>From: "Jack Goldberg"
<J_GOLDBERG@HOTMAIL.COM>
<DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM
<DIV></DIV>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>> This list has been helpful in the
past, so I'll come to the trough of
<DIV></DIV>> knowledge to feed again.
<DIV></DIV>> I noted with interest the thread about
the mast plate bolts coming loose
<DIV></DIV>and
<DIV></DIV>> the response with regard to the
tension of the shrouds. My 84' has a
<DIV></DIV>> standard main. When I bought the boat
this spring, the shrouds were very
<DIV></DIV>> loose (obout 3 inches of play from
side to side at about 3 feet from the
<DIV></DIV>> deck. The guy I bought the boat from
said that was OK, but now I'm
<DIV></DIV>worried.
<DIV></DIV>> Is there a spec' on how tight (or
loose) the shrouds should be under no
<DIV></DIV>> load?
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> Jack Goldberg,
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
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