[Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes

Steve rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Thu, 22 Aug 2002 06:16:38 -0700 (PDT)


I also upgraded my headstay wire to 3/16 when I
upgraded to the schafer furler.
Steve

--- Roger Pihlaja <cen09402@centurytel.net> wrote:
> Dear Toad,
> 
> First of all, I'm an engineer & I've owned my Rhodes
> 22 since the spring of 1987.  Stan @ GBI will never
> be this specific with rig tuning specs.  It's just
> not his nature.  Early on, I purchased a Loo's
> tension gage, started doing experiments, making
> measurements, & racing my boat.  The specs I gave
> you are the lowest static tension settings that
> yield the desired dynamic behavior in the sailing
> rig.  By the way, totalling up the lbs of tension in
> the standing rigging doesn't tell you very much. 
> Each stay is loaded individually.  The ultimate
> tensile strength of those 5/32" OD, 1 X 19, 316
> stainless steel wires is on the order of 2800 lbs. 
> At 600 lbs max tension on the loaded windward upper
> sidestay, my suggested rig tension settings leave a
> safety factor of more than 4X.
> 
> The only part of the standing wire rigging I've
> upgraded was my forestay wire to 3/16" OD, which has
> an ultimate tensile strength of about 4000 lbs.  I
> did this wire size upgrade when I replaced my OEM
> standard roller furler to a Harken Unit 0.  3/16" OD
> wire in the forestay is probably overkill.  But,
> 3/16" OD was the largest standard size available for
> the Harken Unit 0.  I had to replace the forestay
> anyway as part of the installation, there was no
> good reason not to upgrade, & it seemed like cheap
> insurance.
> 
> The breaking strength of the wires & the swaged
> terminals are the limiting factors.  The chainplates
> can hold much more than the rest of the rig.  You
> could confidently lift the entire boat suspended
> from the upper side chainplates.  They don't need to
> be upgraded.
> 
> The mast compression post is only loaded to a small
> fraction of its buckling strength.  Don't worry
> about it.
> 
> Look on page 970 of the WEST Marine 2002 Master
> catalog for a Loo's tension gage.  You would need to
> order a Loo's model 91A or PT1.
> 
> As I said in my post, I was trying to use the image
> of the ends of the hull bending upward like a "22
> foot long banana" under rig stress as a "greatly
> exagerated" illustration of the effects involved. 
> The real hull deflection is subtle, certainly not
> observable without precision measurement
> instruments.
> 
> Since I suggested adjusting the length of the
> forestay in 1/2" increments to adjust your weather
> helm/lee helm balance, if you measure the forestay
> length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8" accuracy,
> that will be sufficient resolution.  You are quite
> correct, I had too many significant figures in my
> forestay length spec.  It should have read 333-5/8".
> 
> Criticize me if you wish, but did anyone else give
> you anything but qualitative descriptions of rig
> tuning?  Why don't you try my rig tuning procedure &
> see what you think?
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Toad the Wet Sprocket 
>   To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org 
>   Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 3:30 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   Roger,
> 
>   So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all
> of your shrouds, not to mention the fore/backstay
> tension?   Where did you come up with all of these
> figures?   Are these the specs from Stan and the
> guys at GB?  This all seems like quite a strain on
> the chain plates and alot of compression down
> through the mast into the hull.  
> 
>   Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or
> beef up the chain plate mountings?  
> 
>   Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape
> measure that measures to three decimal places?  Is
> my boat supposed to bend up at the ends like a 22
> foot banana too?
> 
>        Sorry, I couldn't resist.   I was in a goofy
> mood today.  Honestly,  where did you get these
> specs?  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com 
> 
>   From: "Roger Pihlaja" 
>   Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org 
>   To: 
>   Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension 
>   Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400 
>   Jack, 
>   Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use: 
>   The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length
> of the forestay on center 
>   from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail,
> Rhodes 22, this measurement 
>   is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because
> it is very important. 
>   If your forestay length is more than a couple of
> inches different than this, 
>   you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a
> reasonable starting point. 
>   Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of
> the forestay & backstays 
>   with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things
> real tight at this point. 
>   All upper & lower sidestays should be slack. Go to
> the base of the mast, 
>   pull a halyard taut along the mast & sight up the
> mast from the rear & from 
>   the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will
> show up as a gap between 
>   the mast & the halyard. There should be no
> observable bend or bowing in the 
>   mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped
> & bent at some point or 
>   may have some other problem. You should call Stan
> at GBI & he will be able 
>   to help you work out your problem. 
>   I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91
> is the appropriate range 
>   for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the
> tension at the same 
>   relative position on each shroud every time. On
> Dynamic Equilibrium, I 
>   have marked these measurement points with little
> spots of paint on the 
>   wire right at my eye level. 
>   The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a
> tape measure up the mast on 
>   a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side
> of the boat. I like to 
>   use the edge of the toerail right next to the
> sidestay. Tighten the 
>   turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to
> adjust the upper sidestays 
>   until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" &
> tensioned to approximately 
>   300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of
> the mast is centered in 
>   the boat & the upper sidestays are tensioned
> equally port & starboard. 
>   What you do next depends upon whether your boat
> has the IMF mainsail or a 
>   conventional mainsail. 
>   On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4
> lower sidestays so they were 
>   all approximately the same tension. I would start
> with approximately 200 
>   lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of
> shroud tension. Check for 
>   mast straightness with the halyard again. You want
> the mast to be straight 
>   in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of
> it to be able to turn 
>   without binding &/or excessive wear on the
> bearings. Minor bending or 
>   bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays.
> However, I would call 
>   Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to
> straighten out with a difference 
>   of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension. 
>   My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a
> very roachy fully 
>   battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to
> mast bend. I have my 
>   backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from
> the cockpit with calibration 
>   marks on the line. 
>   Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a little a time
> on each side to keep 
>   things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward
> lower sidestays to 400 lbs 
>   +/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to
> 200 lbs +/- 5% of tension. 
>   Then, check for mast straightness with the
> halyard. Believe it or not, the 
>   standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff
> telephone pole that, at 200 
>   lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will
> be a barely detectable 
>   fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set & the
> backstay adjuster slack. 
>   At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward
> sidestays, when the backstay 
>   adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper
> half of the mast is pulled 
>   towards the stern. The forestay is tightened & the
> mast is bent at the same 
>   time. Both actions are exactly what you want to
> obtain proper sail shape in 
>   a high wind situation. 
>   Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put
> up enough sail to heel 
>   the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the
> rudder blade & centerboard 
>   are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above
> tension settings cause the 
>   mast to remain straight & more or less centered in
> the boat. The primary 
>   thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my
> Rhodes 22 with the above 
>   unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel,
> the windward upper sidestay 
>   should have about 450 lbs tension & the leeward
> upper sidestay should have 
>   about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper
> sidestays set-up such that the 
>   leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at
> about 30 degrees of heel. 
>   At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be
> under about 600 lbs 
>   tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to
> give proper shroud tension 
>   & the correct amount of weather helm with full
> sail set. This tends to 
>   limit the weather window in which you can do this
> sort of tuning. 
>   When all sails are properly trimmed & the boat is
> "in the groove", there 
>   should only a slight amount of weather helm. If
> there is a huge weather 
>   helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to
> adjust the rake angle of 
>   the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then
> increase the forestay 
>   length. To get rid of excessive weather helm,
> shorten the forestay. The 
>   balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast
> rake angle, so change it 
>   in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a
> slight amount of weather 
>   helm 
>   is desirable because it provides feedback to the
> helmsman, thus allowing 
>   him to steer a better course. Excessive weather
> helm tends to tire the 
>   helmsman out. 
>   Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by
> taping the lock nuts on 
>   the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this
> adjustment once. The 
>   Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat
> that nothing ever seems to 
>   stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper
> sidestay length at the 
>   beginning of every season; but, it's never changed
> in the 13+ seasons I've 
>   been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves
> adjusting the lower 
>   sidestays since the rest are not disturbed. 
>   As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs.
> off the trailer, I've 
>   found the 
>   only rig tension adjustment that significantly
> changes is the backstay 
>   tension. 
>   You can set the tension on the rest of the
> standing rigging according to the 
>   above procedure on the trailer. It will be very
> close to optimum when you 
>   get the boat in the water, certainly good enough
> to do the on-the-water 
>   fine tuning described above. 
>   FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when
> Dynamic Equilibrium is not 
>   being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay
> adjuster has sufficient 
>   power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly
> exaggerated, imagine the 
>   ends 
>   of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot
> long banana when the backstay 
>   adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the
> hull & rig under that kind 
>   of 
>   stress when the boat is not being sailed. 
>   Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps
> you. Good luck! 
>   Roger Pihlaja 
>   S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: "Jack Goldberg" 
>   To: 
>   Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM 
>   Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension 
>   > This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll
> come to the trough of 
>   > knowledge to feed again. 
>   > I noted with interest the thread about the mast
> plate bolts coming loose 
>   and 
>   > the response with regard to the tension of the
> shrouds. My 84' has a 
>   > standard main. When I bought the boat this
> spring, the shrouds were very 
>   > loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side
> at about 3 feet from the 
>   > deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that
> was OK, but now I'm 
>   worried. 
>   > Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the
> shrouds should be under no 
>   > load? 
>   > 
>   > Jack Goldberg, 
>   > 
>   >
>
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