[Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes

Michael Meltzer rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:08:06 -0400


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Just for backround, I think Stan is using 1/8 wire everywhere. I know I =
had to upgrade the harken to 5/32 on my boat after the break.

MJM
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Roger Pihlaja=20
  To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 11:07 AM
  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes


  Dear Toad,

  First of all, I'm an engineer & I've owned my Rhodes 22 since the =
spring of 1987.  Stan @ GBI will never be this specific with rig tuning =
specs.  It's just not his nature.  Early on, I purchased a Loo's tension =
gage, started doing experiments, making measurements, & racing my boat.  =
The specs I gave you are the lowest static tension settings that yield =
the desired dynamic behavior in the sailing rig.  By the way, totalling =
up the lbs of tension in the standing rigging doesn't tell you very =
much.  Each stay is loaded individually.  The ultimate tensile strength =
of those 5/32" OD, 1 X 19, 316 stainless steel wires is on the order of =
2800 lbs.  At 600 lbs max tension on the loaded windward upper sidestay, =
my suggested rig tension settings leave a safety factor of more than 4X.

  The only part of the standing wire rigging I've upgraded was my =
forestay wire to 3/16" OD, which has an ultimate tensile strength of =
about 4000 lbs.  I did this wire size upgrade when I replaced my OEM =
standard roller furler to a Harken Unit 0.  3/16" OD wire in the =
forestay is probably overkill.  But, 3/16" OD was the largest standard =
size available for the Harken Unit 0.  I had to replace the forestay =
anyway as part of the installation, there was no good reason not to =
upgrade, & it seemed like cheap insurance.

  The breaking strength of the wires & the swaged terminals are the =
limiting factors.  The chainplates can hold much more than the rest of =
the rig.  You could confidently lift the entire boat suspended from the =
upper side chainplates.  They don't need to be upgraded.

  The mast compression post is only loaded to a small fraction of its =
buckling strength.  Don't worry about it.

  Look on page 970 of the WEST Marine 2002 Master catalog for a Loo's =
tension gage.  You would need to order a Loo's model 91A or PT1.

  As I said in my post, I was trying to use the image of the ends of the =
hull bending upward like a "22 foot long banana" under rig stress as a =
"greatly exagerated" illustration of the effects involved.  The real =
hull deflection is subtle, certainly not observable without precision =
measurement instruments.

  Since I suggested adjusting the length of the forestay in 1/2" =
increments to adjust your weather helm/lee helm balance, if you measure =
the forestay length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8" accuracy, that =
will be sufficient resolution.  You are quite correct, I had too many =
significant figures in my forestay length spec.  It should have read =
333-5/8".

  Criticize me if you wish, but did anyone else give you anything but =
qualitative descriptions of rig tuning?  Why don't you try my rig tuning =
procedure & see what you think?

  Roger Pihlaja
  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Toad the Wet Sprocket=20
    To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
    Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 3:30 PM
    Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes






    Roger,

    So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all of your shrouds, =
not to mention the fore/backstay tension?   Where did you come up with =
all of these figures?   Are these the specs from Stan and the guys at =
GB?  This all seems like quite a strain on the chain plates and alot of =
compression down through the mast into the hull. =20

    Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or beef up the chain =
plate mountings? =20

    Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape measure that =
measures to three decimal places?  Is my boat supposed to bend up at the =
ends like a 22 foot banana too?

         Sorry, I couldn't resist.   I was in a goofy mood today.  =
Honestly,  where did you get these specs? =20




    Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com=20

    From: "Roger Pihlaja"=20
    Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
    To:=20
    Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
    Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400=20
    Jack,=20
    Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use:=20
    The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the forestay =
on center=20
    from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes 22, this =
measurement=20
    is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because it is very =
important.=20
    If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches different =
than this,=20
    you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a reasonable starting =
point.=20
    Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of the forestay & =
backstays=20
    with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things real tight at this =
point.=20
    All upper & lower sidestays should be slack. Go to the base of the =
mast,=20
    pull a halyard taut along the mast & sight up the mast from the rear =
& from=20
    the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will show up as a gap =
between=20
    the mast & the halyard. There should be no observable bend or bowing =
in the=20
    mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped & bent at some =
point or=20
    may have some other problem. You should call Stan at GBI & he will =
be able=20
    to help you work out your problem.=20
    I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91 is the appropriate =
range=20
    for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the tension at the =
same=20
    relative position on each shroud every time. On Dynamic Equilibrium, =
I=20
    have marked these measurement points with little spots of paint on =
the=20
    wire right at my eye level.=20
    The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a tape measure up the =
mast on=20
    a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side of the boat. I =
like to=20
    use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay. Tighten the=20
    turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the upper =
sidestays=20
    until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" & tensioned to =
approximately=20
    300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of the mast is =
centered in=20
    the boat & the upper sidestays are tensioned equally port & =
starboard.=20
    What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the IMF mainsail =
or a=20
    conventional mainsail.=20
    On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower sidestays so =
they were=20
    all approximately the same tension. I would start with approximately =
200=20
    lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of shroud tension. =
Check for=20
    mast straightness with the halyard again. You want the mast to be =
straight=20
    in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be able to =
turn=20
    without binding &/or excessive wear on the bearings. Minor bending =
or=20
    bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays. However, I would =
call=20
    Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out with a =
difference=20
    of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.=20
    My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a very roachy fully =

    battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast bend. I have =
my=20
    backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the cockpit with =
calibration=20
    marks on the line.=20
    Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a little a time on each side to =
keep=20
    things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward lower sidestays to =
400 lbs=20
    +/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs +/- 5% of =
tension.=20
    Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard. Believe it or =
not, the=20
    standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone pole that, =
at 200=20
    lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a barely =
detectable=20
    fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set & the backstay adjuster =
slack.=20
    At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, when the =
backstay=20
    adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of the mast is =
pulled=20
    towards the stern. The forestay is tightened & the mast is bent at =
the same=20
    time. Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain proper sail =
shape in=20
    a high wind situation.=20
    Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put up enough sail to =
heel=20
    the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the rudder blade & =
centerboard=20
    are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above tension settings =
cause the=20
    mast to remain straight & more or less centered in the boat. The =
primary=20
    thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my Rhodes 22 with the =
above=20
    unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the windward upper =
sidestay=20
    should have about 450 lbs tension & the leeward upper sidestay =
should have=20
    about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper sidestays set-up such that =
the=20
    leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 degrees of =
heel.=20
    At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under about 600 =
lbs=20
    tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to give proper shroud =
tension=20
    & the correct amount of weather helm with full sail set. This tends =
to=20
    limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of tuning.=20
    When all sails are properly trimmed & the boat is "in the groove", =
there=20
    should only a slight amount of weather helm. If there is a huge =
weather=20
    helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust the rake =
angle of=20
    the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase the =
forestay=20
    length. To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the forestay. =
The=20
    balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake angle, so =
change it=20
    in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a slight amount of =
weather=20
    helm=20
    is desirable because it provides feedback to the helmsman, thus =
allowing=20
    him to steer a better course. Excessive weather helm tends to tire =
the=20
    helmsman out.=20
    Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping the lock =
nuts on=20
    the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this adjustment once. The=20
    Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that nothing ever =
seems to=20
    stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper sidestay length =
at the=20
    beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the 13+ =
seasons I've=20
    been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves adjusting the =
lower=20
    sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.=20
    As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the trailer, =
I've=20
    found the=20
    only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is the =
backstay=20
    tension.=20
    You can set the tension on the rest of the standing rigging =
according to the=20
    above procedure on the trailer. It will be very close to optimum =
when you=20
    get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do the =
on-the-water=20
    fine tuning described above.=20
    FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic Equilibrium is =
not=20
    being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster has =
sufficient=20
    power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly exaggerated, imagine =
the=20
    ends=20
    of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long banana when the =
backstay=20
    adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the hull & rig under =
that kind=20
    of=20
    stress when the boat is not being sailed.=20
    Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps you. Good luck!=20
    Roger Pihlaja=20
    S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: "Jack Goldberg"=20
    To:=20
    Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM=20
    Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
    > This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll come to the trough =
of=20
    > knowledge to feed again.=20
    > I noted with interest the thread about the mast plate bolts coming =
loose=20
    and=20
    > the response with regard to the tension of the shrouds. My 84' has =
a=20
    > standard main. When I bought the boat this spring, the shrouds =
were very=20
    > loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side at about 3 feet =
from the=20
    > deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that was OK, but now I'm =

    worried.=20
    > Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the shrouds should be =
under no=20
    > load?=20
    >=20
    > Jack Goldberg,=20
    >=20
    > _________________________________________________________________=20
    > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:=20
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our=20
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    >=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Just for backround, I think Stan is =
using 1/8 wire=20
everywhere. I know I had to upgrade the harken to 5/32 on my boat after =
the=20
break.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>MJM</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dcen09402@centurytel.net =
href=3D"mailto:cen09402@centurytel.net">Roger=20
  Pihlaja</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Drhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org">rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org</A>=
 </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, August 21, =
2002 11:07=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Rhodes22-list] =
shroud=20
  tension jokes</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear Toad,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>First of all, I'm an engineer &amp; =
I've owned my=20
  Rhodes 22 since the spring of 1987.&nbsp; Stan @ GBI will never be =
this=20
  specific with rig tuning specs.&nbsp; It's just not his nature.&nbsp; =
Early=20
  on, I purchased a Loo's tension gage, started doing experiments, =
making=20
  measurements, &amp; racing my boat.&nbsp; The specs I gave you are the =
lowest=20
  static tension settings that yield the desired dynamic&nbsp;behavior =
in the=20
  sailing rig.&nbsp; By the way, totalling up the lbs of tension in the =
standing=20
  rigging doesn't tell you very much.&nbsp; Each stay is loaded=20
  individually.&nbsp; The&nbsp;ultimate tensile strength of those 5/32" =
OD, 1 X=20
  19, 316 stainless steel wires is on the order of 2800 lbs.&nbsp; At =
600 lbs=20
  max tension on the loaded windward upper sidestay, my =
suggested&nbsp;rig=20
  tension settings leave a safety factor of more than 4X.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The only part of the standing wire =
rigging I've=20
  upgraded was my forestay wire&nbsp;to 3/16" OD, which has an ultimate =
tensile=20
  strength of about 4000 lbs.&nbsp; I did this wire size =
upgrade&nbsp;when I=20
  replaced my OEM standard roller furler to a Harken Unit 0.&nbsp; 3/16" =
OD wire=20
  in the forestay is probably overkill.&nbsp; But, 3/16" OD&nbsp;was the =
largest=20
  standard size available for the Harken Unit 0.&nbsp; I had to replace =
the=20
  forestay anyway as part of the installation, there was no good reason =
not to=20
  upgrade, &amp; it seemed like cheap insurance.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The breaking strength of the wires =
&amp; the=20
  swaged terminals are the limiting factors.&nbsp; The chainplates can =
hold much=20
  more than the rest of the rig.&nbsp; You could confidently lift the =
entire=20
  boat suspended from the upper side&nbsp;chainplates.&nbsp; They don't =
need to=20
  be upgraded.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The mast compression post is only =
loaded to=20
  a&nbsp;small fraction of its buckling strength.&nbsp; Don't worry =
about=20
  it.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Look on page 970&nbsp;of the WEST =
Marine 2002=20
  Master catalog for a Loo's tension gage.&nbsp; You would&nbsp;need to=20
  order&nbsp;a Loo's model 91A or PT1.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As I said in my post,&nbsp;I was =
trying to use=20
  the image of&nbsp;the ends of the hull bending upward like a "22=20
  foot&nbsp;long banana" under rig stress as a "greatly=20
  exagerated"&nbsp;illustration of the effects involved.&nbsp; The real =
hull=20
  deflection is subtle, certainly not observable without=20
  precision&nbsp;measurement instruments.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Since I suggested adjusting the =
length of the=20
  forestay in 1/2" increments to adjust your weather helm/lee helm =
balance, if=20
  you measure the forestay length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8"=20
  accuracy,&nbsp;that will be sufficient resolution.&nbsp; You are quite =

  correct, I had too many significant figures in my forestay length =
spec.&nbsp;=20
  It should have read 333-5/8".</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Criticize me if you wish, but did =
anyone else=20
  give you anything but qualitative descriptions of rig tuning?&nbsp; =
Why don't=20
  you try my rig tuning procedure &amp; see what you think?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Roger Pihlaja</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium</FONT></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
    <DIV=20
    style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
    <A title=3Dsprocket80@hotmail.com =
href=3D"mailto:sprocket80@hotmail.com">Toad=20
    the Wet Sprocket</A> </DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Drhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org">rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org</A>=
=20
    </DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 20, =
2002 3:30=20
    PM</DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Rhodes22-list] =
shroud=20
    tension jokes</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
    <DIV>
    <DIV>
    <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
    size=3D2></FONT><BR><BR></P></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>
    <P>Roger,</P>
    <P>So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all of your shrouds, =
not to=20
    mention the fore/backstay tension?&nbsp;&nbsp; Where did you come up =
with=20
    all of these figures?&nbsp;&nbsp; Are these the specs from Stan and =
the guys=20
    at GB?&nbsp; This all seems like quite a strain on the chain plates =
and alot=20
    of compression down through the mast into the hull.&nbsp; </P>
    <P>Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or beef up the =
chain=20
    plate mountings?&nbsp; </P>
    <P>Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape measure that =
measures to=20
    three decimal places?&nbsp; Is my boat supposed to bend up at the =
ends like=20
    a 22 foot banana too?</P>
    <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sorry, I couldn't resist.&nbsp;&nbsp; I =
was in a=20
    goofy mood today.&nbsp; Honestly,&nbsp; where did you get these =
specs?&nbsp;=20
    </P>
    <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
    size=3D2></FONT><BR><BR><BR>Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com =
</P>
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>From: "Roger Pihlaja" <CEN09402@CENTURYTEL.NET>
    <DIV></DIV>Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
    <DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
    <DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
    <DIV></DIV>Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Jack,=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use:=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the =

    forestay on center=20
    <DIV></DIV>from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes =
22, this=20
    measurement=20
    <DIV></DIV>is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because it is =
very=20
    important.=20
    <DIV></DIV>If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches =
different=20
    than this,=20
    <DIV></DIV>you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a reasonable =

    starting point.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of the =
forestay=20
    &amp; backstays=20
    <DIV></DIV>with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things real =
tight at=20
    this point.=20
    <DIV></DIV>All upper &amp; lower sidestays should be slack. Go to =
the base=20
    of the mast,=20
    <DIV></DIV>pull a halyard taut along the mast &amp; sight up the =
mast from=20
    the rear &amp; from=20
    <DIV></DIV>the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will show up =
as a=20
    gap between=20
    <DIV></DIV>the mast &amp; the halyard. There should be no observable =
bend or=20
    bowing in the=20
    <DIV></DIV>mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped &amp; =
bent at=20
    some point or=20
    <DIV></DIV>may have some other problem. You should call Stan at GBI =
&amp; he=20
    will be able=20
    <DIV></DIV>to help you work out your problem.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91 is the=20
    appropriate range=20
    <DIV></DIV>for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the tension =
at the=20
    same=20
    <DIV></DIV>relative position on each shroud every time. On Dynamic=20
    Equilibrium, I=20
    <DIV></DIV>have marked these measurement points with little spots of =
paint=20
    on the=20
    <DIV></DIV>wire right at my eye level.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a tape =
measure up=20
    the mast on=20
    <DIV></DIV>a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side of the =
boat. I=20
    like to=20
    <DIV></DIV>use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay. =
Tighten=20
    the=20
    <DIV></DIV>turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the =
upper=20
    sidestays=20
    <DIV></DIV>until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" &amp; =
tensioned to=20
    approximately=20
    <DIV></DIV>300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of the =
mast is=20
    centered in=20
    <DIV></DIV>the boat &amp; the upper sidestays are tensioned equally =
port=20
    &amp; starboard.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the =
IMF=20
    mainsail or a=20
    <DIV></DIV>conventional mainsail.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower =
sidestays so=20
    they were=20
    <DIV></DIV>all approximately the same tension. I would start with=20
    approximately 200=20
    <DIV></DIV>lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of shroud =
tension.=20
    Check for=20
    <DIV></DIV>mast straightness with the halyard again. You want the =
mast to be=20
    straight=20
    <DIV></DIV>in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be =
able to=20
    turn=20
    <DIV></DIV>without binding &amp;/or excessive wear on the bearings. =
Minor=20
    bending or=20
    <DIV></DIV>bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays. =
However, I=20
    would call=20
    <DIV></DIV>Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out =
with a=20
    difference=20
    <DIV></DIV>of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a very =
roachy=20
    fully=20
    <DIV></DIV>battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast =
bend. I=20
    have my=20
    <DIV></DIV>backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the =
cockpit with=20
    calibration=20
    <DIV></DIV>marks on the line.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Tighten the turnbuckles equally &amp; a little a time on =
each=20
    side to keep=20
    <DIV></DIV>things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward lower =
sidestays=20
    to 400 lbs=20
    <DIV></DIV>+/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs =
+/- 5%=20
    of tension.=20
    <DIV></DIV>Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard. =
Believe it or=20
    not, the=20
    <DIV></DIV>standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone =
pole=20
    that, at 200=20
    <DIV></DIV>lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a =
barely=20
    detectable=20
    <DIV></DIV>fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set &amp; the =
backstay=20
    adjuster slack.=20
    <DIV></DIV>At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, =
when the=20
    backstay=20
    <DIV></DIV>adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of =
the mast=20
    is pulled=20
    <DIV></DIV>towards the stern. The forestay is tightened &amp; the =
mast is=20
    bent at the same=20
    <DIV></DIV>time. Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain =
proper=20
    sail shape in=20
    <DIV></DIV>a high wind situation.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put up =
enough sail=20
    to heel=20
    <DIV></DIV>the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the rudder =
blade=20
    &amp; centerboard=20
    <DIV></DIV>are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above tension =
settings=20
    cause the=20
    <DIV></DIV>mast to remain straight &amp; more or less centered in =
the boat.=20
    The primary=20
    <DIV></DIV>thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my Rhodes 22 =
with the=20
    above=20
    <DIV></DIV>unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the =
windward=20
    upper sidestay=20
    <DIV></DIV>should have about 450 lbs tension &amp; the leeward upper =

    sidestay should have=20
    <DIV></DIV>about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper sidestays =
set-up such=20
    that the=20
    <DIV></DIV>leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 =
degrees=20
    of heel.=20
    <DIV></DIV>At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under =
about=20
    600 lbs=20
    <DIV></DIV>tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to give =
proper=20
    shroud tension=20
    <DIV></DIV>&amp; the correct amount of weather helm with full sail =
set. This=20
    tends to=20
    <DIV></DIV>limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of =
tuning.=20

    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>When all sails are properly trimmed &amp; the boat is "in =
the=20
    groove", there=20
    <DIV></DIV>should only a slight amount of weather helm. If there is =
a huge=20
    weather=20
    <DIV></DIV>helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust =
the rake=20
    angle of=20
    <DIV></DIV>the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase =
the=20
    forestay=20
    <DIV></DIV>length. To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the =

    forestay. The=20
    <DIV></DIV>balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake =
angle, so=20
    change it=20
    <DIV></DIV>in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a slight =
amount of=20
    weather=20
    <DIV></DIV>helm=20
    <DIV></DIV>is desirable because it provides feedback to the =
helmsman, thus=20
    allowing=20
    <DIV></DIV>him to steer a better course. Excessive weather helm =
tends to=20
    tire the=20
    <DIV></DIV>helmsman out.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping =
the lock=20
    nuts on=20
    <DIV></DIV>the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this adjustment =
once.=20
    The=20
    <DIV></DIV>Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that =
nothing ever=20
    seems to=20
    <DIV></DIV>stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper =
sidestay=20
    length at the=20
    <DIV></DIV>beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the =
13+=20
    seasons I've=20
    <DIV></DIV>been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves =
adjusting the=20
    lower=20
    <DIV></DIV>sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the =

    trailer, I've=20
    <DIV></DIV>found the=20
    <DIV></DIV>only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is =
the=20
    backstay=20
    <DIV></DIV>tension.=20
    <DIV></DIV>You can set the tension on the rest of the standing =
rigging=20
    according to the=20
    <DIV></DIV>above procedure on the trailer. It will be very close to =
optimum=20
    when you=20
    <DIV></DIV>get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do =
the=20
    on-the-water=20
    <DIV></DIV>fine tuning described above.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic =
Equilibrium=20
    is not=20
    <DIV></DIV>being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster =
has=20
    sufficient=20
    <DIV></DIV>power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly =
exaggerated,=20
    imagine the=20
    <DIV></DIV>ends=20
    <DIV></DIV>of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long =
banana when=20
    the backstay=20
    <DIV></DIV>adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the hull =
&amp; rig=20
    under that kind=20
    <DIV></DIV>of=20
    <DIV></DIV>stress when the boat is not being sailed.=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps you. =
Good luck!=20

    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>Roger Pihlaja=20
    <DIV></DIV>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----=20
    <DIV></DIV>From: "Jack Goldberg" <J_GOLDBERG@HOTMAIL.COM>
    <DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
    <DIV></DIV>Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM=20
    <DIV></DIV>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll come =
to the=20
    trough of=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; knowledge to feed again.=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; I noted with interest the thread about the mast =
plate bolts=20
    coming loose=20
    <DIV></DIV>and=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; the response with regard to the tension of the =
shrouds. My=20
    84' has a=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; standard main. When I bought the boat this spring, =
the=20
    shrouds were very=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side at =
about 3=20
    feet from the=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that was =
OK, but=20
    now I'm=20
    <DIV></DIV>worried.=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the shrouds =
should=20
    be under no=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; load?=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; Jack Goldberg,=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
    _________________________________________________________________=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print =
your=20
    photos:=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; _______________________________________=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt; Subscribers, send mail to this address=20
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    <DIV></DIV>&gt; To change your options or unsubscribe from the list =
click on=20
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http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Check=20
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    <DIV></DIV>&gt; FAQ pages at =
http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/topics.html=20

    <DIV></DIV>&gt; http://www.sailnet.com/ -Where Sailors Get It!=20
    http://www.rhodes22.org=20
    <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>_______________________________________=20
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Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20

    <DIV></DIV>To change your options or unsubscribe from the list click =
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