[Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes
Roger Pihlaja
rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:07:16 -0400
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Dear Toad,
First of all, I'm an engineer & I've owned my Rhodes 22 since the spring =
of 1987. Stan @ GBI will never be this specific with rig tuning specs. =
It's just not his nature. Early on, I purchased a Loo's tension gage, =
started doing experiments, making measurements, & racing my boat. The =
specs I gave you are the lowest static tension settings that yield the =
desired dynamic behavior in the sailing rig. By the way, totalling up =
the lbs of tension in the standing rigging doesn't tell you very much. =
Each stay is loaded individually. The ultimate tensile strength of =
those 5/32" OD, 1 X 19, 316 stainless steel wires is on the order of =
2800 lbs. At 600 lbs max tension on the loaded windward upper sidestay, =
my suggested rig tension settings leave a safety factor of more than 4X.
The only part of the standing wire rigging I've upgraded was my forestay =
wire to 3/16" OD, which has an ultimate tensile strength of about 4000 =
lbs. I did this wire size upgrade when I replaced my OEM standard =
roller furler to a Harken Unit 0. 3/16" OD wire in the forestay is =
probably overkill. But, 3/16" OD was the largest standard size =
available for the Harken Unit 0. I had to replace the forestay anyway =
as part of the installation, there was no good reason not to upgrade, & =
it seemed like cheap insurance.
The breaking strength of the wires & the swaged terminals are the =
limiting factors. The chainplates can hold much more than the rest of =
the rig. You could confidently lift the entire boat suspended from the =
upper side chainplates. They don't need to be upgraded.
The mast compression post is only loaded to a small fraction of its =
buckling strength. Don't worry about it.
Look on page 970 of the WEST Marine 2002 Master catalog for a Loo's =
tension gage. You would need to order a Loo's model 91A or PT1.
As I said in my post, I was trying to use the image of the ends of the =
hull bending upward like a "22 foot long banana" under rig stress as a =
"greatly exagerated" illustration of the effects involved. The real =
hull deflection is subtle, certainly not observable without precision =
measurement instruments.
Since I suggested adjusting the length of the forestay in 1/2" =
increments to adjust your weather helm/lee helm balance, if you measure =
the forestay length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8" accuracy, that =
will be sufficient resolution. You are quite correct, I had too many =
significant figures in my forestay length spec. It should have read =
333-5/8".
Criticize me if you wish, but did anyone else give you anything but =
qualitative descriptions of rig tuning? Why don't you try my rig tuning =
procedure & see what you think?
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Toad the Wet Sprocket=20
To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes
Roger,
So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all of your shrouds, not =
to mention the fore/backstay tension? Where did you come up with all =
of these figures? Are these the specs from Stan and the guys at GB? =
This all seems like quite a strain on the chain plates and alot of =
compression down through the mast into the hull. =20
Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or beef up the chain =
plate mountings? =20
Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape measure that measures =
to three decimal places? Is my boat supposed to bend up at the ends =
like a 22 foot banana too?
Sorry, I couldn't resist. I was in a goofy mood today. =
Honestly, where did you get these specs? =20
Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com=20
From: "Roger Pihlaja"=20
Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
To:=20
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400=20
Jack,=20
Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use:=20
The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the forestay on =
center=20
from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes 22, this =
measurement=20
is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because it is very =
important.=20
If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches different than =
this,=20
you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a reasonable starting =
point.=20
Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of the forestay & =
backstays=20
with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things real tight at this =
point.=20
All upper & lower sidestays should be slack. Go to the base of the =
mast,=20
pull a halyard taut along the mast & sight up the mast from the rear & =
from=20
the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will show up as a gap =
between=20
the mast & the halyard. There should be no observable bend or bowing =
in the=20
mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped & bent at some point =
or=20
may have some other problem. You should call Stan at GBI & he will be =
able=20
to help you work out your problem.=20
I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91 is the appropriate =
range=20
for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the tension at the same=20
relative position on each shroud every time. On Dynamic Equilibrium, I =
have marked these measurement points with little spots of paint on the =
wire right at my eye level.=20
The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a tape measure up the =
mast on=20
a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side of the boat. I like =
to=20
use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay. Tighten the=20
turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the upper =
sidestays=20
until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" & tensioned to =
approximately=20
300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of the mast is centered =
in=20
the boat & the upper sidestays are tensioned equally port & starboard. =
What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the IMF mainsail =
or a=20
conventional mainsail.=20
On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower sidestays so they =
were=20
all approximately the same tension. I would start with approximately =
200=20
lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of shroud tension. Check =
for=20
mast straightness with the halyard again. You want the mast to be =
straight=20
in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be able to turn =
without binding &/or excessive wear on the bearings. Minor bending or=20
bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays. However, I would =
call=20
Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out with a =
difference=20
of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.=20
My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a very roachy fully=20
battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast bend. I have =
my=20
backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the cockpit with =
calibration=20
marks on the line.=20
Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a little a time on each side to keep =
things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward lower sidestays to =
400 lbs=20
+/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs +/- 5% of =
tension.=20
Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard. Believe it or not, =
the=20
standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone pole that, at =
200=20
lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a barely =
detectable=20
fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set & the backstay adjuster =
slack.=20
At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, when the =
backstay=20
adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of the mast is =
pulled=20
towards the stern. The forestay is tightened & the mast is bent at the =
same=20
time. Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain proper sail =
shape in=20
a high wind situation.=20
Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put up enough sail to =
heel=20
the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the rudder blade & =
centerboard=20
are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above tension settings =
cause the=20
mast to remain straight & more or less centered in the boat. The =
primary=20
thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my Rhodes 22 with the above=20
unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the windward upper =
sidestay=20
should have about 450 lbs tension & the leeward upper sidestay should =
have=20
about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper sidestays set-up such that =
the=20
leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 degrees of =
heel.=20
At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under about 600 lbs =
tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to give proper shroud =
tension=20
& the correct amount of weather helm with full sail set. This tends to =
limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of tuning.=20
When all sails are properly trimmed & the boat is "in the groove", =
there=20
should only a slight amount of weather helm. If there is a huge =
weather=20
helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust the rake angle =
of=20
the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase the forestay=20
length. To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the forestay. =
The=20
balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake angle, so =
change it=20
in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a slight amount of =
weather=20
helm=20
is desirable because it provides feedback to the helmsman, thus =
allowing=20
him to steer a better course. Excessive weather helm tends to tire the =
helmsman out.=20
Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping the lock nuts =
on=20
the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this adjustment once. The=20
Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that nothing ever seems =
to=20
stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper sidestay length at =
the=20
beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the 13+ seasons =
I've=20
been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves adjusting the lower =
sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.=20
As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the trailer, =
I've=20
found the=20
only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is the backstay =
tension.=20
You can set the tension on the rest of the standing rigging according =
to the=20
above procedure on the trailer. It will be very close to optimum when =
you=20
get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do the =
on-the-water=20
fine tuning described above.=20
FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic Equilibrium is =
not=20
being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster has =
sufficient=20
power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly exaggerated, imagine =
the=20
ends=20
of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long banana when the =
backstay=20
adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the hull & rig under that =
kind=20
of=20
stress when the boat is not being sailed.=20
Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps you. Good luck!=20
Roger Pihlaja=20
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Jack Goldberg"=20
To:=20
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM=20
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
> This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll come to the trough =
of=20
> knowledge to feed again.=20
> I noted with interest the thread about the mast plate bolts coming =
loose=20
and=20
> the response with regard to the tension of the shrouds. My 84' has a =
> standard main. When I bought the boat this spring, the shrouds were =
very=20
> loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side at about 3 feet from =
the=20
> deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that was OK, but now I'm=20
worried.=20
> Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the shrouds should be under =
no=20
> load?=20
>=20
> Jack Goldberg,=20
>=20
> _________________________________________________________________=20
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:=20
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx=20
>=20
> _______________________________________=20
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> To change your options or unsubscribe from the list click on this =
link=20
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Check out our =
> FAQ pages at http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/topics.html=20
> http://www.sailnet.com/ -Where Sailors Get It! =
http://www.rhodes22.org=20
>=20
_______________________________________=20
Subscribers, send mail to this address Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
To change your options or unsubscribe from the list click on this link =
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear Toad,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>First of all, I'm an engineer & =
I've owned my=20
Rhodes 22 since the spring of 1987. Stan @ GBI will never be this =
specific=20
with rig tuning specs. It's just not his nature. Early on, I =
purchased a Loo's tension gage, started doing experiments, making =
measurements,=20
& racing my boat. The specs I gave you are the lowest static =
tension=20
settings that yield the desired dynamic behavior in the sailing =
rig. =20
By the way, totalling up the lbs of tension in the standing rigging =
doesn't tell=20
you very much. Each stay is loaded individually. =
The ultimate=20
tensile strength of those 5/32" OD, 1 X 19, 316 stainless steel wires is =
on the=20
order of 2800 lbs. At 600 lbs max tension on the loaded windward =
upper=20
sidestay, my suggested rig tension settings leave a safety factor =
of more=20
than 4X.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The only part of the standing wire =
rigging I've=20
upgraded was my forestay wire to 3/16" OD, which has an ultimate =
tensile=20
strength of about 4000 lbs. I did this wire size upgrade when =
I=20
replaced my OEM standard roller furler to a Harken Unit 0. 3/16" =
OD wire=20
in the forestay is probably overkill. But, 3/16" OD was the =
largest=20
standard size available for the Harken Unit 0. I had to replace =
the=20
forestay anyway as part of the installation, there was no good reason =
not to=20
upgrade, & it seemed like cheap insurance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The breaking strength of the wires =
& the swaged=20
terminals are the limiting factors. The chainplates can hold much =
more=20
than the rest of the rig. You could confidently lift the entire =
boat=20
suspended from the upper side chainplates. They don't need to =
be=20
upgraded.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The mast compression post is only =
loaded to=20
a small fraction of its buckling strength. Don't worry about=20
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Look on page 970 of the WEST =
Marine 2002=20
Master catalog for a Loo's tension gage. You would need to=20
order a Loo's model 91A or PT1.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As I said in my post, I was trying =
to use the=20
image of the ends of the hull bending upward like a "22 =
foot long=20
banana" under rig stress as a "greatly exagerated" illustration of =
the=20
effects involved. The real hull deflection is subtle, certainly =
not=20
observable without precision measurement instruments.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Since I suggested adjusting the length =
of the=20
forestay in 1/2" increments to adjust your weather helm/lee helm =
balance, if you=20
measure the forestay length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8"=20
accuracy, that will be sufficient resolution. You are quite =
correct,=20
I had too many significant figures in my forestay length spec. It =
should=20
have read 333-5/8".</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Criticize me if you wish, but did =
anyone else give=20
you anything but qualitative descriptions of rig tuning? Why don't =
you try=20
my rig tuning procedure & see what you think?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Roger Pihlaja</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dsprocket80@hotmail.com =
href=3D"mailto:sprocket80@hotmail.com">Toad the=20
Wet Sprocket</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Drhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
=
href=3D"mailto:rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org">rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org</A>=
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 20, 2002 =
3:30=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Rhodes22-list] =
shroud=20
tension jokes</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT><BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>Roger,</P>
<P>So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all of your shrouds, =
not to=20
mention the fore/backstay tension? Where did you come up =
with all=20
of these figures? Are these the specs from Stan and the =
guys at=20
GB? This all seems like quite a strain on the chain plates and =
alot of=20
compression down through the mast into the hull. </P>
<P>Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or beef up the =
chain plate=20
mountings? </P>
<P>Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape measure that =
measures to=20
three decimal places? Is my boat supposed to bend up at the ends =
like a=20
22 foot banana too?</P>
<P> Sorry, I couldn't resist. I =
was in a=20
goofy mood today. Honestly, where did you get these =
specs? =20
</P>
<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT><BR><BR><BR>Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com =
</P>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>From: "Roger Pihlaja" <CEN09402@CENTURYTEL.NET>
<DIV></DIV>Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
<DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
<DIV></DIV>Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Jack,=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use:=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the =
forestay=20
on center=20
<DIV></DIV>from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes 22, =
this=20
measurement=20
<DIV></DIV>is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because it is =
very=20
important.=20
<DIV></DIV>If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches =
different=20
than this,=20
<DIV></DIV>you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a reasonable =
starting=20
point.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of the =
forestay &=20
backstays=20
<DIV></DIV>with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things real =
tight at=20
this point.=20
<DIV></DIV>All upper & lower sidestays should be slack. Go to the =
base of=20
the mast,=20
<DIV></DIV>pull a halyard taut along the mast & sight up the mast =
from the=20
rear & from=20
<DIV></DIV>the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will show up =
as a gap=20
between=20
<DIV></DIV>the mast & the halyard. There should be no observable =
bend or=20
bowing in the=20
<DIV></DIV>mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped & =
bent at=20
some point or=20
<DIV></DIV>may have some other problem. You should call Stan at GBI =
& he=20
will be able=20
<DIV></DIV>to help you work out your problem.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91 is the =
appropriate=20
range=20
<DIV></DIV>for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the tension =
at the=20
same=20
<DIV></DIV>relative position on each shroud every time. On Dynamic=20
Equilibrium, I=20
<DIV></DIV>have marked these measurement points with little spots of =
paint on=20
the=20
<DIV></DIV>wire right at my eye level.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a tape measure =
up the=20
mast on=20
<DIV></DIV>a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side of the =
boat. I=20
like to=20
<DIV></DIV>use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay. =
Tighten the=20
<DIV></DIV>turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the =
upper=20
sidestays=20
<DIV></DIV>until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" & =
tensioned to=20
approximately=20
<DIV></DIV>300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of the mast =
is=20
centered in=20
<DIV></DIV>the boat & the upper sidestays are tensioned equally =
port &=20
starboard.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the IMF =
mainsail or a=20
<DIV></DIV>conventional mainsail.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower =
sidestays so=20
they were=20
<DIV></DIV>all approximately the same tension. I would start with=20
approximately 200=20
<DIV></DIV>lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of shroud =
tension.=20
Check for=20
<DIV></DIV>mast straightness with the halyard again. You want the mast =
to be=20
straight=20
<DIV></DIV>in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be =
able to=20
turn=20
<DIV></DIV>without binding &/or excessive wear on the bearings. =
Minor=20
bending or=20
<DIV></DIV>bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays. However, =
I would=20
call=20
<DIV></DIV>Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out =
with a=20
difference=20
<DIV></DIV>of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a very =
roachy=20
fully=20
<DIV></DIV>battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast =
bend. I=20
have my=20
<DIV></DIV>backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the cockpit =
with=20
calibration=20
<DIV></DIV>marks on the line.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a little a time on =
each side=20
to keep=20
<DIV></DIV>things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward lower =
sidestays to=20
400 lbs=20
<DIV></DIV>+/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs =
+/- 5% of=20
tension.=20
<DIV></DIV>Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard. Believe =
it or=20
not, the=20
<DIV></DIV>standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone =
pole that,=20
at 200=20
<DIV></DIV>lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a =
barely=20
detectable=20
<DIV></DIV>fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set & the =
backstay=20
adjuster slack.=20
<DIV></DIV>At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, when =
the=20
backstay=20
<DIV></DIV>adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of the =
mast is=20
pulled=20
<DIV></DIV>towards the stern. The forestay is tightened & the mast =
is bent=20
at the same=20
<DIV></DIV>time. Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain =
proper sail=20
shape in=20
<DIV></DIV>a high wind situation.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put up enough =
sail to=20
heel=20
<DIV></DIV>the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the rudder =
blade &=20
centerboard=20
<DIV></DIV>are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above tension =
settings=20
cause the=20
<DIV></DIV>mast to remain straight & more or less centered in the =
boat.=20
The primary=20
<DIV></DIV>thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my Rhodes 22 with =
the=20
above=20
<DIV></DIV>unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the =
windward upper=20
sidestay=20
<DIV></DIV>should have about 450 lbs tension & the leeward upper =
sidestay=20
should have=20
<DIV></DIV>about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper sidestays set-up =
such=20
that the=20
<DIV></DIV>leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 =
degrees=20
of heel.=20
<DIV></DIV>At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under =
about 600=20
lbs=20
<DIV></DIV>tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to give proper =
shroud=20
tension=20
<DIV></DIV>& the correct amount of weather helm with full sail =
set. This=20
tends to=20
<DIV></DIV>limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of =
tuning.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>When all sails are properly trimmed & the boat is "in =
the=20
groove", there=20
<DIV></DIV>should only a slight amount of weather helm. If there is a =
huge=20
weather=20
<DIV></DIV>helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust the =
rake=20
angle of=20
<DIV></DIV>the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase =
the=20
forestay=20
<DIV></DIV>length. To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the =
forestay.=20
The=20
<DIV></DIV>balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake =
angle, so=20
change it=20
<DIV></DIV>in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a slight =
amount of=20
weather=20
<DIV></DIV>helm=20
<DIV></DIV>is desirable because it provides feedback to the helmsman, =
thus=20
allowing=20
<DIV></DIV>him to steer a better course. Excessive weather helm tends =
to tire=20
the=20
<DIV></DIV>helmsman out.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping =
the lock=20
nuts on=20
<DIV></DIV>the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this adjustment =
once. The=20
<DIV></DIV>Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that nothing =
ever=20
seems to=20
<DIV></DIV>stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper sidestay =
length=20
at the=20
<DIV></DIV>beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the =
13+=20
seasons I've=20
<DIV></DIV>been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves =
adjusting the=20
lower=20
<DIV></DIV>sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the =
trailer,=20
I've=20
<DIV></DIV>found the=20
<DIV></DIV>only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is =
the=20
backstay=20
<DIV></DIV>tension.=20
<DIV></DIV>You can set the tension on the rest of the standing rigging =
according to the=20
<DIV></DIV>above procedure on the trailer. It will be very close to =
optimum=20
when you=20
<DIV></DIV>get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do the=20
on-the-water=20
<DIV></DIV>fine tuning described above.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic =
Equilibrium=20
is not=20
<DIV></DIV>being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster =
has=20
sufficient=20
<DIV></DIV>power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly exaggerated, =
imagine=20
the=20
<DIV></DIV>ends=20
<DIV></DIV>of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long banana =
when the=20
backstay=20
<DIV></DIV>adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the hull & =
rig=20
under that kind=20
<DIV></DIV>of=20
<DIV></DIV>stress when the boat is not being sailed.=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps you. Good =
luck!=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Roger Pihlaja=20
<DIV></DIV>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV></DIV>From: "Jack Goldberg" <J_GOLDBERG@HOTMAIL.COM>
<DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM=20
<DIV></DIV>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>> This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll come =
to the=20
trough of=20
<DIV></DIV>> knowledge to feed again.=20
<DIV></DIV>> I noted with interest the thread about the mast plate =
bolts=20
coming loose=20
<DIV></DIV>and=20
<DIV></DIV>> the response with regard to the tension of the =
shrouds. My 84'=20
has a=20
<DIV></DIV>> standard main. When I bought the boat this spring, the =
shrouds=20
were very=20
<DIV></DIV>> loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side at =
about 3=20
feet from the=20
<DIV></DIV>> deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that was OK, =
but now=20
I'm=20
<DIV></DIV>worried.=20
<DIV></DIV>> Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the shrouds =
should be=20
under no=20
<DIV></DIV>> load?=20
<DIV></DIV>>=20
<DIV></DIV>> Jack Goldberg,=20
<DIV></DIV>>=20
<DIV></DIV>>=20
_________________________________________________________________=20
<DIV></DIV>> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your =
photos:=20
<DIV></DIV>> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx=20
<DIV></DIV>>=20
<DIV></DIV>> _______________________________________=20
<DIV></DIV>> Subscribers, send mail to this address=20
Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
<DIV></DIV>> To change your options or unsubscribe from the list =
click on=20
this link=20
<DIV></DIV>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list =
Check=20
out our=20
<DIV></DIV>> FAQ pages at =
http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/topics.html=20
<DIV></DIV>> http://www.sailnet.com/ -Where Sailors Get It!=20
http://www.rhodes22.org=20
<DIV></DIV>>=20
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>_______________________________________=20
<DIV></DIV>Subscribers, send mail to this address =
Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
<DIV></DIV>To change your options or unsubscribe from the list click =
on this=20
link=20
<DIV></DIV>http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list =
Check out=20
our=20
<DIV></DIV>FAQ pages at =
http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/topics.html=20
<DIV></DIV>http://www.sailnet.com/ -Where Sailors Get It!=20
http://www.rhodes22.org=20
<DIV></DIV></DIV><BR clear=3Dall>
<HR>
Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <A=20
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http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Check out our =
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