[Rhodes22-list] Battery to Motor Connects

[Kroposki]

Rummy,
	You said extend the battery connections that come with the
motor.  They are about 6 feet long.  If you extend to v berth battery,
don't you need heavier wire?  That would mean replacing the existing
wire from the motor and going all the way to the front battery.
	What gauge is the existing hook up wire?  It is very flexible
and I doubt that it is anywhere near # 8 gauge.  The manual doesn't
tell.  And what would the appropriate gauge be from the motor to the
front battery?  I am sure that # 2 as Michael has suggested is over
kill.  West marine has a insulated #8 dual wire that I think might work,
but I am not sure.  As for starting the motor when the battery is low,
how can that be a problem, just pull start it.  
	Another question is that the owners manual doesn't tell the
current draw of the electric start.  If we knew the current draw, we
could calculate the gauge necessary.
	Anybody got the answers?
                               Ed K 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of John Tonjes
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 10:55 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Link 10

Michael,
One comment on your recommendations. The 8hp Tohatsu draws much less
amperage than you would think. I don't know the exact battery cable
size,
but I can assure you they are less than a 2 gage cable. Also, the
voltage
loss over the length of a twenty foot boat is neglible if the cable is
sized properly.

Rummy


> [Original Message]
> From: Michael Meltzer <mjm at michaelmeltzer.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Date: 6/4/2003 9:27:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Link 10
>
> wait until you see the cost of #2 wire :-), #2 is pretty close to
being
able to handle a dead short but you still should have a
> fuss, best bet. #4-#8 will work with fussing(but bigger is better with
a
low battery), 10-12 will fail. you need to run the wire
> back to the battery, NOT the fuss panel!!! figuring a 30-40 foot round
trip with all the twice and turns, plus you pickup 16 feet on
> the motor 8 foot leads, their is a real voltage drop problem. the
other
issue is fussing, you should install and 40-80 amp
> breaker(wire size based) very close to the battery on the line leading
back.(cheek the tables)
>
> A real example, 10.5 volt on a link 10, was still able to start my
Yamaha
9.9 th using #2 wire(dual pair type 31 AGM's). now #2 is a
> pain-in-the-ass to run, a safe bet would be #6 wire, 50 amp surface
mount
breaker in the battery area(need to double check the
> tables), matching lugs, a lug crimp, heat shrink tubing and a pair of
5/8
posts for that lasserret(to be able to connect and
> disconnect the motor).
> Before you say it, a battery is cheaper :-)
> MJM
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rob Lowe" <rlowe at vt.edu>
> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 8:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Link 10
>
>
> > Bill,
> > OK.  Single battery (for now) with electric start motor with a
possible
> > solar panel down the road.  Now, how do you route the cables from
the
> > battery to the motor and what type of connections go to the motor?
Do
the
> > wires get in the way?  Thanks
> >
> > Rob Lowe
> > S/V Getaway
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com>
> > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 9:20 PM
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Link 10
> >
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > Need?  Nah.  But if you had one now you might discover you can run
that
> > blender as soon as you hook up the Tohatsu.
> >
> > Here's my reply to Rummy on the same subject a couple of years ago:
> >
> > Rummy,
> >
> > I've got the Heart 10/Link 10 also and I love it.  It gives the
exact
> > information you really want.  For example, your meter tells you you
have 100
> > amp hours in your battery.  Your meter tells you your lights are
drawing 10
> > amps.  How long can you run the lights before your battery is dead.
> > (Hint--the answer is not 10 hours.)  The meter will tell you how
long
you
> > can run the lights.  The manual explains why the answer is not 10
hours.
> >
> > I read about Rhodes owners creating floating electric sub-stations
with
> > another battery in every available space.  If they knew how many
amps
they
> > actually used and how fast they replaced them they would know they
simply
> > don't need all the extra batteries.
> >
> > My boat is on a mooring.  I have 2 solar panels.  My electric
starting
> > Tohatsu puts more power back than it uses.  I use as much
electricity
as I
> > want.  I have never had to recharge the batteries outside the
system. 
The
> > Link 10 instantly and continuously tells me the voltage, amperage,
amount of
> > power currently being used, and a pretty good estimate of how much
longer I
> > can continue to use the amount of power currently being used.
> >
> > I never have electrical anxiety.
> >
> > It's a good system.  My meter is located above the breaker panel--a
logical
> > location--the sensor must be located near the battery.
> >
> > Bill Effros
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: Rob Lowe
> > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 8:54 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motors with electric start
> >
> >
> > Bill,
> > Thanks so much!  This was exactly what information I was looking
for. 
Our
> > boat has a single battery, no solar panels, and just a voltage meter
for
> > monitoring battery charge.  It sounds like hooking up the Tohatsu 8
to
that
> > battery will work.  No need for separate starting battery and the
motor
will
> > keep the battery charged (assuming you run it enough, and if it does
go
> > dead, use the pull starter).
> >
> > Down the road (once I pay for a new @#$#$% motor), perhaps add
second
> > battery (to run the blender) and a solar panel to keep up the charge
on
> > both.
> >
> > Do you really need the Link 10?  They're a bit pricey.  Thanks!
> >
> > Rob
> > S/V Getaway
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com>
> > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 8:38 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motors with electric start
> >
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > I have the electric start Tohatsu 8.  Love it.
> >
> > I have 2 batteries, linked, on board.  One would be sufficient.
Don't
waste
> > time or money on a separate "starter" battery.  There is this rope
"thingy"
> > on top of the electric start Tohatsu.  You'll never need to use it,
but
I
> > tried it once--you pull on it, and the motor starts.  Ask Rummy.
Then
your
> > motor will put electricity back into the battery and you'll be able
to
run
> > lights and things even if your battery goes "dead".
> >
> > The motor starts so easily you almost always put more electricity
back
into
> > the battery than you withdrew by starting.
> >
> > I have 2 batteries, the Tohatsu, and 2 solar panels installed by GB.
No
> > regulator.  No problem.  My boat sits on a mooring all summer, in a
yard all
> > winter.  (I'm in Greenwich, CT.)  I never remove the batteries.  I
have
> > never used shore power to recharge them.  The batteries lasted for 5
years
> > without a single problem.  I will replace them this year.
> >
> > I have, and recommend, a Link 10 meter.  It lets me know the exact
condition
> > of the batteries at all times.  I use it every time I come on board.

It has
> > saved me a fortune in unneeded extra batteries, regulators, special
> > circuits, etc.  Also I don't yell at people who are using what turns
out to
> > be insignificant amounts of electricity, of which I have more than
enough.
> >
> > Bill Effros
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: Rob Lowe
> > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 11:33 AM
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motors with electric start
> >
> >
> > I'm getting to the point where a new motor might have to be
purchased. 
Took
> > the drains out of the gearbox of the old one and a nice, grey
material
oozed
> > out (homogenized oil and water, I assume).  That plus the
inoperative
> > reverse and the failure to start problem is pushing me towards a new
one.  I
> > was quoted $450 to extend a short shaft into a long shaft.  I've
looked
at
> > the used ones on the various web sites but didn't see anything I
really
> > cared for.
> >
> >
> > I'm looking at the 8Hp Tohatsu/Nissan.  Question, I'm thinking about
the
> > electric start feature.  Not so much for starting the motor, but I
have
no
> > charging system on the boat as it is.  I was looking at adding a
flexible
> > mount solar charger, but the cost of those is about what the
electric
start
> > additional would be.  Any one have an electric start option?  How
about
> > batteries, wiring, over charge protection, etc.  I've got a battery
on
board
> > now, but it has to be charged though an external charger.  I would
also
like
> > to add more electrical devices in the future (like inverter for a
blender,
> > got to keep up with Rummy).  Any advice is appreciated!
> >
> > Rob
> > S/V Getaway
> > __________________________________________________
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> >
>
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