[Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...

[Lloyd Crowther]

I have had two sources of leaks into my bilge, the corner drain in the
forward starboard seat gutter which drains onto the cabin sole needed a new
hose and rebedding, and the chain plates needed to be rebedded.  The former
was detected by a dampness just aft of my icebox but the latter had no
visible signs inside my boat and I doubt that they would have inside yours.
However, if you unscrew the chainplate covers you may (or may not) see voids
in or around the caulking.  On the other hand, if your boat is in salt water
and the hose from the cockpit sole drain is loose at the bottom, or the
fitting in the hull itself is leaking, you can tell by tasting (not
drinking) your bilge water.

Lloyd

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Dobson" <robertdobson777 at yahoo.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...


> Roger, Thank you for your insight. So with the larger
> head sail I really do not need the inside tracks. As
> for my leaky problem,I have throughly gone thru the
> inside of the cabin and can see no evidence of any
> leaks . As to the gutters of the seats , yes I have
> drains, but drilling them farther back, I am missing
> something, because they would still seem to drain out
> into the main cockpit in the center of the rear of the
> cockpit. I addressed the lazarette possibility but no
> success.  The area I have not been able to check is
> the hose which leads the centerboard pennant. How do I
> get at this to check It? Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob Dobson
> s/v Kee Lee--- Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> wrote:
> > Bob,
> >
> > Question #1:
> >
> > With any foresail bigger than about 100%, route the
> > sheets outside of the
> > shrouds on all points of sail.
> >
> > Question #2:
> >
> > Check the following:
> >
> > Do you have drains in the gutters on the seats in
> > the cockpit located in the
> > extreme front corners of the cockpit, port &
> > starboard?  If you do; then,
> > you may have found your unattended boat leak!  Plugs
> > those drain holes up
> > with epoxy & redrill the drain holes in the gutters
> > a couple of inches aft.
> >
> > Are your cockpit seat gutter drains clogged up & not
> > flowing freely?  If so,
> > they may be allowing rainwater to overflow the
> > cockpit seat gutters into the
> > lazarette compartment, which is connected to the
> > bilge.
> >
> > Do you have any fittings thru the cockpit sole which
> > may be leaking?  They
> > may need to be rebedded.
> >
> > Is the cockpit sole drain/thru hull leaking into the
> > lazarette compartment?
> >
> > Is the hose which leads the centerboard pennant from
> > the cockpit down to the
> > centerboard leaking?
> >
> > Are you certain you don't have a leak from a deck
> > fitting, hull deck joint,
> > chain plate, or port?
> >
> > Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robert Dobson" <robertdobson777 at yahoo.com>
> > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> > <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 6:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...
> >
> >
> > > I to have a two questions for the board...---too
> > > #1 my Rhodes22 does not have inside tracts
> > installed.
> > > I have 175 jib and Intermast main . Obviously I
> > sail
> > > with full blown jib out side the the shrouds. From
> > the
> > > discussion so far it is not a big benefit with the
> > 175
> > > to go inside. I shorten up to tach but otherwise I
> > am
> > > 100% out. Would you consider it necessary or just
> > a
> > > option , to be able to go inside with the 175 ?
> > >
> > > #2 I know that it his been way above normal in
> > rain
> > > fall in Wisconsin this year. Each time I go to the
> > > boat, I have to bail at least a full bucket or 2
> > out
> > > of the bilge. I know it is not from the bottom. It
> > is
> > > rain water and I can not see any obvious areas the
> > it
> > > is coming in the cabin area. The lazerette is now
> > got
> > > weather stripping on it but has not cured the
> > problem.
> > > Are there other drains or channels that might
> > allow
> > > for this that I am missing? It is dry in the
> > lazerette
> > > as long as the water does not accumulate too much
> > > before I get to bail. The areas do not seem to be
> > open
> > > to each other but still there is flow back and
> > forth
> > > between the lazerette and the bilge. Just
> > wondering if
> > > any one has experienced similar problems?
> > >
> > > Bob Dobson
> > > s/v Kel Lee
> > >
> > > Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> > > > Sheldon,
> > > >
> > > > Question #1:
> > > >
> > > > I am assuming your foresail was reefed to less
> > than
> > > > 100% in these
> > > > conditions.  However, if you are in doubt, if
> > the
> > > > clew of the foresail
> > > > extended aft of the chainplate on the upper
> > > > sidestays; then, you should
> > > > always route the sheets outside of the shrouds.
> > > >
> > > > The only time you will want to route the sheets
> > > > inboard of the shrouds is
> > > > when you are on a point of sail more upwind than
> > a
> > > > beam reach with the
> > > > foresail reefed to less than about 100%.  Please
> > > > read the jib car tuning
> > > > procedure given below.  If this procedure causes
> > the
> > > > sheet to become fouled
> > > > on a lifelife or a shroud & you don't like the
> > > > resulting sailshape; then,
> > > > you should reroute the sheets &/or switch genoa
> > > > tracks to eliminate the
> > > > fouling.
> > > >
> > > > The following article was taken from the Rhodes
> > 22
> > > > FAQ website:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/jibcars.html
> > > > JIB CAR TUNING PROCEDURE:
> > > >
> > > > The basic method for determining the position
> > for
> > > > the jib cars is to sight
> > > > up the jib sheet & continue the imaginary line
> > past
> > > > the clew all the way to
> > > > the forestay. At the proper jib car position,
> > this
> > > > imaginary line should
> > > > intersect the midpoint on the luff of the sail.
> > As
> > > > the sail is reefed, the
> > > > jib car position will move forward. Shift to the
> > > > forward track when the rear
> > > > track won't give you the proper geometry,
> > usually
> > > > with a foresail smaller
> > > > than about 100%.
> > > >
> > > > The above procedure will give you an approximate
> > jib
> > > > car position, which can
> > > > then be fine tuned thru the use of tell tales.
> > The
> > > > following procedure can
> > > > be used for fine tuning the jib on points of
> > sail
> > > > from close hauled to a
> > > > beam reach. On any point of sail more downwind
> > than
> > > > a beam reach, you should
> > > > just use the above basic procedure since the
> > mode of
> > > > operation of the sail
> > > > changes from behaving like a wing to behaving
> > more
> > > > like a parachute.
> > > >
> > > > You should have 3 tell tales about 12" back from
> > the
> > > > luff & equally spaced
> > > > down the luff of the sail. Usually, tell tales
> > are
> > > > installed with a small
> > > > window so the sail trimmer can see the tell tale
> > on
> > > > both sides of the sail
> > > > without having to duck their head under the
> > sail.
> > > > The sail is properly
> > > > trimmed when the windward & leeward tell tales
> > at
> > > > all 3 positions are
> > > > streaming backwards. The proper jib car position
> > is
> > > > determined by either the
> > > > jib trimmer pulling in slightly on the jib sheet
> > or
> > > > the helmsman pinching up
> > > > slightly into the wind while watching the
> > behavior
> > > > of the tell tales. (This
> > > > test is done slowly) If the top tell tales
> > flutter
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>
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