[Rhodes22-list] Re-Seating Portlight
Bryan Childs
bchilds1 at peoplepc.com
Mon Mar 15 16:51:59 EST 2004
Bob, Thanks for the advice. I'm going with no frame screws to start with. I
can always add them later.
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Bob Weber
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 12:18 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] Re-Seating Portlight
Brian, I know your pain. I did two portlights last year and would expect
the other 4 to be not far behind. I did not understand your explaination of
the setup. I think you are mistaken on the functions of the parts. The
sealent does just that (seals - does some bonding but sealing that is not
its function). The screws, 8 of them, hold the port next to the seal. I
don't remember if the FAQ mentions it but it is important to let the sealent
cure for a day or two before you tighten down the port to the boat. I put
the sealent on the boat placed the port in the hole put the screws in the
holes and gave them a couple turns so I didnt lose them, came back a couple
days later and tightened them up - worked like a charm. You can drop me a
reply or call me during business hours 1-800-573-4774 ext 273 if you would
like to go into further detail. Bob Weber
>From: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>To: "Rhodes List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re-Seating Portlight
>Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 13:13:09 -0500
>
>Well, as preparation for my trip to the Keys I wanted to re-seat the
>forward starboard portlight. (Remember my boat was build in 84) I found
>that
>the instructions were good for removal using the putty knife except that my
>portlight is mounted from the inside. It's section protrudes through two
>layers of fiberglass (one the ceiling and the other the deck) and above the
>deck. It has a frame around the portion that protrudes through the deck.
>There are no screws in the exterior frame. It uses the sealant to keep the
>frame in place. The main sealing for water is the gap from the portion that
>protruded through the deck and the deck. All was heavily sealed with
>silicon sealer.
>
>
>
>I am debating two changes to the published instructions: First I want to
>seal the inner portion to the ceiling and fully tighten the screws. My
>thinking is that I do not want this of move with respect to the deck. This
>area is not the prime sealing spot. Second, I was thinking of adding some
>screws to the outer frame to hold it down and also hold the critical
>sealant
>to the deck. Of course the original frame did not have screws and lasted 20
>years and additional holes will add more spots to leak.
>
>
>
>I have not re-installed it yet and any ideas are welcome.
>
>
>
>PS: it took me 5 hours to get it out and 8 hours to clean up all the old
>sealant using a needle nose pliers.
>
>
>
>
>
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