[Rhodes22-list] Re-Seating Portlight

[Bob Weber]

Brian, I know your pain.  I did two portlights last year and would expect 
the other 4 to be not far behind.  I did not understand your explaination of 
the setup.  I think you are mistaken on the functions of the parts.  The 
sealent does just that (seals - does some bonding but sealing that is not 
its function).  The screws, 8 of them, hold the port next to the seal.   I 
don't remember if the FAQ mentions it but it is important to let the sealent 
cure for a day or two before you tighten down the port to the boat.  I put 
the sealent on the boat placed the port in the hole put the screws in the 
holes and gave them a couple turns so I didnt lose them, came back a couple 
days later and tightened them up - worked like a charm.  You can drop me a 
reply or call me during business hours 1-800-573-4774 ext 273 if you would 
like to go into further detail. Bob Weber


>From: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>To: "Rhodes List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re-Seating Portlight
>Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 13:13:09 -0500
>
>Well, as preparation for my trip to the Keys I  wanted to re-seat the
>forward starboard portlight. (Remember my boat was build in 84) I found 
>that
>the instructions were good for removal using the putty knife except that my
>portlight is mounted from the inside.  It's section protrudes through two
>layers of fiberglass (one the ceiling and the other the deck) and above the
>deck.  It has a frame around the portion that protrudes through the deck.
>There are no screws in the exterior frame. It uses the sealant to keep the
>frame in place. The main sealing for water is the gap from the portion that
>protruded through the deck and the deck.  All was heavily sealed with
>silicon sealer.
>
>
>
>I am debating two changes to the published instructions:  First I want to
>seal the inner portion to the ceiling and fully tighten the screws.  My
>thinking is that I do not want this of move with respect to the deck. This
>area is not the prime sealing spot.  Second,  I was thinking of adding some
>screws to the outer frame to hold it down and also hold the critical 
>sealant
>to the deck. Of course the original frame did not have screws and lasted 20
>years and additional holes will add more spots to leak.
>
>
>
>I have not re-installed it yet and any ideas are welcome.
>
>
>
>PS: it took me 5 hours to get it out and 8 hours to clean up all the old
>sealant using a needle nose pliers.
>
>
>
>
>
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