[Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22

Thu Nov 25 11:28:14 EST 2004

Roger,

   I just made the drawings last night from memory and did not take any measurements.  It would take some thought to decide where to start measuring from.  I guess I could use the aft cabin bulkhead under the companionway as a longitudinal datum, and the underside of the cabin ceiling vertically (to reference floor levels).  A string can be pulled between the centers of the bulkheads (which should be directly centered along the c/b trunk) for lateral reference.  If I were to have the interior torn out to the extent of Hank's boat, I would go to the newer style cabin layout with angled galley and front access to the head/ porta-potty area with an expanding door or curved curtail rail like in a hospital room.

  The stringers supporting the port settee and the galley base (and their attached cleat/stringers) must be bevel cut/shaped to match the curvature of the hull then bedded and glassed to the hull like the bulkheads. The stringers must also be scribed and cut to match any longitudinal curvature as well. I did find out that the two center floor support stringers on my 1974 were not actually structural and flat on the bottom. That is that they were attached to the bulkheads (like a floor joists in house construction) but not bedded down onto the hull floor---only tabbed. I guess they could be shape matched and bedded to the hull as well. There is enough strength in the hull in this area. There were openings under the bottoms of the center floor stringers, even with the front of the c/b trunk, to allow water to drain into the center bilge area.  Some pictures I have seen of newer boats look as if additional concrete has been poured in between the floor stringers after they were installed.  

Todd

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Pihlaja" 
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" 
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22 
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2004 07:10:33 -0500 

> 
> Todd, 
> 
> Those are pretty good drawings of the floor & cabin bulkhead structures. I 
> saved them into my file of boat info just in case I ever need them. You 
> don't happen to have versions of those drawings with dimensions on them do 
> you? 
> 
> Are the stringers really flat on the bottom as illustrated, or is there some 
> longitudinal curvature? I've never really looked closely at those 
> pieces/parts in my boat. Does each one have to be custom fit to a 
> particular location? i.e., If Hank doesn't have existing stringers to copy, 
> is he going to have to setup some sort of longitudinal & transverse "grid" 
> at cabin sole level with string? Then, he would reference the vertical 
> height of each stringer to that grid in several locations, build the 
> stringer, & custom trim it to fit. Otherwise, how can Hank be certain that 
> the top surface of all the stringers will end up on the same plane to evenly 
> support the cabin sole? Sounds doable, but a royal PITA - the 1st of many 
> on this project I'm sure! 
> 
> Roger Pihlaja 
> S/V Dynamic Equilbrium 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Todd Tavares" 
> To: 
> Cc: 
> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2004 1:09 AM 
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22 
> 
> 
> Hank, 
> 
> I don't know if you read the e-mail I sent to the Rhodes list in response to 
> your first request for help determining the structural layout of the R 22 
> interior. I attached a couple of drawings and have a couple more with this 
> e-mail. 
> 
> First of all, it looked as if there was standing water in the cabin. You 
> need to get that out and allow the hull to dry out good. I would try to get 
> rid of that OSB chip board and go with marine grade plywood. It costs quite 
> a bit but the quality is much better, There are no voids and the plys are 
> bonded with non-water soluable glue. I would still follow Roger's suggestion 
> to give the structural members a coating of two of epoxy first. 
> In the first drawings, I left out two stringers, (#5 and #6 in my latest 
> drawing) which are really cleats, and are glassed to the stringers (#1 and 
> #2) These stringers/cleats support the edges of the cabin floor and allow 
> the floor to be secured with screws. 
> 
> Since your interior is gutted, you can make up your own interior design if 
> you like....BUT you definitely need to add a mast compression post!! It 
> appears in your photos there are holes and marks on the ceiling so it won't 
> be difficult to locate the correct position. 
> 
> If you have never done fiberglass work, I would suggest buying an 
> instructional video or go to the website for: 
> http://www.westsystem.com/ and 
> http://www.boater.com/repinfo/westsys/west4.html 
> 
> Both sites have a ton of info. I highly recommend buying a video...but at 
> the very least buy a copy of gudgeon brothers manual #002-550 "Fiberglass 
> Boat Repair & Maintenance". I got this manual free at a local boat store. 
> 
> Todd Tavares 
> 
> 
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