[Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22

Fri Nov 26 05:54:43 EST 2004

Todd,

Is the ceiling of the main cabin a constant vertical distance from the main
cabin sole?  I've never measured it.

It would be nice if the boat could be shimmed/jacked up such that the cabin
sole would be level both longitudinally & transversely.  That way, one could
use simple tools like string levels & plumb bobs for this project.  I was
thinking the top bearing surface on the flange on the cabin roof where the
pop top sits could be used as a reference plane for this purpose.  This
bearing surface must be quite flat or the pop top would not seat properly in
the down position.  Once the boat was made level on both axes with respect
to this bearing surface , you would have another option as far as
establishing a reference grid iside the cabin.  With the cabin gutted out
like on Hank's boat, you could fill the cabin with water up to the desired
level.  Then, you would simply mark the water level on the inside of the
hull with a permanent ink marking pen.  Pump out the water & you'd be left
with reference points.

As far as the question of how to go about replacing stringers 3, 4, 5, & 6;
the short answer is make copies of the existing stringers.  With an existing
cabin sole, hopefully in not too bad shape, you already have the reference
plane defined.  You would definitely want to make some reference marks
around the cabin before you pulled up the cabin sole.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Tavares" <sprocket80 at mail.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2004 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22

> Roger,
>
> I just made the drawings last night from memory and did not take any
measurements. It would take some thought to decide where to start measuring
from. I guess I could use the aft cabin bulkhead under the companionway as a
longitudinal datum, and the underside of the cabin ceiling vertically (to
reference floor levels).  A string can be pulled between the centers of the
bulkheads (which should be directly centered along the c/b trunk) for
lateral reference.  If I were to have the interior torn out to the extent of
Hank's boat, I would go to the newer style cabin layout with angled galley
and front access to the head/ porta-potty area with an expanding door or
curved curtail rail like in a hospital room.
>
> The stringers supporting the port settee and the galley base (and their
attached cleat/stringers) must be bevel cut/shaped to match the curvature of
the hull then bedded and glassed to the hull like the bulkheads. The
stringers must also be scribed and cut to match any longitudinal curvature
as well. I did find out that the two center floor support stringers on my
1974 were not actually structural and flat on the bottom. That is that they
were attached to the bulkheads (like a floor joists in house construction)
but not bedded down onto the hull floor---only tabbed. I guess they could be
shape matched and bedded to the hull as well. There is enough strength in
the hull in this area. There were openings under the bottoms of the center
floor stringers, even with the front of the c/b trunk, to allow water to
drain into the center bilge area.  Some pictures I have seen of newer boats
look as if additional concrete has been poured in between the floor
stringers after they were installed.
>
> Todd
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Pihlaja"
> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2004 07:10:33 -0500
>
> >
> > Todd,
> >
> > Those are pretty good drawings of the floor & cabin bulkhead structures.
I
> > saved them into my file of boat info just in case I ever need them. You
> > don't happen to have versions of those drawings with dimensions on them
do
> > you?
> >
> > Are the stringers really flat on the bottom as illustrated, or is there
some
> > longitudinal curvature? I've never really looked closely at those
> > pieces/parts in my boat. Does each one have to be custom fit to a
> > particular location? i.e., If Hank doesn't have existing stringers to
copy,
> > is he going to have to setup some sort of longitudinal & transverse
"grid"
> > at cabin sole level with string? Then, he would reference the vertical
> > height of each stringer to that grid in several locations, build the
> > stringer, & custom trim it to fit. Otherwise, how can Hank be certain
that
> > the top surface of all the stringers will end up on the same plane to
evenly
> > support the cabin sole? Sounds doable, but a royal PITA - the 1st of
many
> > on this project I'm sure!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilbrium
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Todd Tavares"
> > To:
> > Cc:
> > Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2004 1:09 AM
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22
> >
> >
> > Hank,
> >
> > I don't know if you read the e-mail I sent to the Rhodes list in
response to
> > your first request for help determining the structural layout of the R
22
> > interior. I attached a couple of drawings and have a couple more with
this
> > e-mail.
> >
> > First of all, it looked as if there was standing water in the cabin. You
> > need to get that out and allow the hull to dry out good. I would try to
get
> > rid of that OSB chip board and go with marine grade plywood. It costs
quite
> > a bit but the quality is much better, There are no voids and the plys
are
> > bonded with non-water soluable glue. I would still follow Roger's
suggestion
> > to give the structural members a coating of two of epoxy first.
> > In the first drawings, I left out two stringers, (#5 and #6 in my latest
> > drawing) which are really cleats, and are glassed to the stringers (#1
and
> > #2) These stringers/cleats support the edges of the cabin floor and
allow
> > the floor to be secured with screws.
> >
> > Since your interior is gutted, you can make up your own interior design
if
> > you like....BUT you definitely need to add a mast compression post!! It
> > appears in your photos there are holes and marks on the ceiling so it
won't
> > be difficult to locate the correct position.
> >
> > If you have never done fiberglass work, I would suggest buying an
> > instructional video or go to the website for:
> > http://www.westsystem.com/ and
> > http://www.boater.com/repinfo/westsys/west4.html
> >
> > Both sites have a ton of info. I highly recommend buying a video...but
at
> > the very least buy a copy of gudgeon brothers manual #002-550
"Fiberglass
> > Boat Repair & Maintenance". I got this manual free at a local boat
store.
> >
> > Todd Tavares
> >
> >
> > --
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> >
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