[Rhodes22-list] CB Cleat - strong, permanent fix in blind space

Sat Aug 19 22:43:38 EDT 2006

Slim,

One point: Rather than redrill for the original screws, do you think that
you might be better off using threaded inserts of a larger diameter than the
originals and thread the screws into the inserts?  I have found that the
greater surface area of the larger hole gives the insert much better bite
into the material (epoxy).  Smaller diameter equals smaller surface area
equals greater likelihood of stripping out threads.  Just my $0.02.

Mike
s/v Shanghai'd Summer

From: "Slim" <salm at mn.rr.com>
I went out to the boat this afternoon and here's the story.  First, there is
no way to access the hollow place under the cleat to hold a block of wood or
washers and nuts or anything like that so it's confirmed, like Rummy said,
this is a top side job.  I agree that Robert's fix is no doubt the best but
I decided to try something simpler first.  I used West System two-part epoxy
and added a liberal amount of filler making it almost like bread dough.
Then I took a little trawl and smooshed it into both holes thinking it would
make a sort of pimple under the hole.  Then I added a layer of it above the
holes adding bulk.  I think when I redrill the holes I'll have at least
3/16" thickness--maybe more.  With the pimple I might get another 1/4". I'm
hoping that'll be enough for the screws to bite on.  I also found a pair of
screws with a little coarser thread.  Do you think I should 5200 the whole
bottom of the cleat when I install it?  That is, using the 5200 as calk.
This should hold for at least the rest of the season.  If it breaks out
again, then I'll try the more major root canal method that Robert suggests.

Thanks for all the input.

Slim

On 8/19/06 2:49 PM, "Robert Skinner" <robert at squirrelhaven.com> wrote:

> Slim, I'm not sure of the exact situation that you describe,
> but the following is a generic fix that you can adapt to
> your circumstances.
>
> The attached drawings show one method of dealing with a cleat
> whose screws have pulled out of a fiberglass surface where the
> open space under that surface is not easily accessible.
>
> Drawing 1 shows the initial situation.  The cleat screws have
> pulled out of the fiberglass, leaving two ragged holes.
>
> Drawing 2 shows the preparation for the fix.  An oblong hole
> has been cut in the fiberglass and the edges have been
> beveled to improve adherence of a epoxy-fiberglass patch to
> be applied later.  The edge of the hole is at least 1/2" and
> optimally 1" away from the former screw holes.
>
> Drawing 3 shows the marine plywood reinforcing block being
> inserted thru the hole into the blind space.  Note that there
> is a hole in the middle and a piece of small stuff is used to
> control it.  The string will be used later to hold the block
> in place while sealant sets up.
>
> Drawing 4 shows the block being adhered in place, held up by
> the string.  Any adhesive could be used, but I prefer 3M 5200.
>
> Drawing 5 shows the epoxy-and-fiber filler in place, ready to
> be sanded down and finish-coated (gel-coat, paint or epoxy).
>
> Drawing 6 shows the finished repair with the cleat in place.
>
> /Robert Skinner         Coordinates N43° 41.330', W70° 24.889'
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Slim wrote:
>>
>> Rummy,
>>
>> Last time I squirted some two-part epoxy into and across the holes,
>> redrilled and screwed it all back in.  It lasted less than a year and has
>> now stripped out again.  It's a thin layer of glass and hollow
underneath.
>> There's nothing substantial for the goop to adhere to and no bulk for the
>> screws to bite on.
>
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