[Rhodes22-list] CB Cleat - strong, permanent fix in blind
space
Slim
salm at mn.rr.com
Sat Aug 19 21:53:23 EDT 2006
Mike,
Yes, we thought of that too but then I'd have to use a larger cleat because
the cleat's holes for the screws are only so big. And I HAVE a larger cleat
that I considered but it seemed oversized and I nixed it.
Slim
On 8/19/06 8:43 PM, "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> Slim,
>
> One point: Rather than redrill for the original screws, do you think that
> you might be better off using threaded inserts of a larger diameter than the
> originals and thread the screws into the inserts? I have found that the
> greater surface area of the larger hole gives the insert much better bite
> into the material (epoxy). Smaller diameter equals smaller surface area
> equals greater likelihood of stripping out threads. Just my $0.02.
>
> Mike
> s/v Shanghai'd Summer
>
>
> From: "Slim" <salm at mn.rr.com>
> I went out to the boat this afternoon and here's the story. First, there is
> no way to access the hollow place under the cleat to hold a block of wood or
> washers and nuts or anything like that so it's confirmed, like Rummy said,
> this is a top side job. I agree that Robert's fix is no doubt the best but
> I decided to try something simpler first. I used West System two-part epoxy
> and added a liberal amount of filler making it almost like bread dough.
> Then I took a little trawl and smooshed it into both holes thinking it would
> make a sort of pimple under the hole. Then I added a layer of it above the
> holes adding bulk. I think when I redrill the holes I'll have at least
> 3/16" thickness--maybe more. With the pimple I might get another 1/4". I'm
> hoping that'll be enough for the screws to bite on. I also found a pair of
> screws with a little coarser thread. Do you think I should 5200 the whole
> bottom of the cleat when I install it? That is, using the 5200 as calk.
> This should hold for at least the rest of the season. If it breaks out
> again, then I'll try the more major root canal method that Robert suggests.
>
> Thanks for all the input.
>
> Slim
>
> On 8/19/06 2:49 PM, "Robert Skinner" <robert at squirrelhaven.com> wrote:
>
>> Slim, I'm not sure of the exact situation that you describe,
>> but the following is a generic fix that you can adapt to
>> your circumstances.
>>
>> The attached drawings show one method of dealing with a cleat
>> whose screws have pulled out of a fiberglass surface where the
>> open space under that surface is not easily accessible.
>>
>> Drawing 1 shows the initial situation. The cleat screws have
>> pulled out of the fiberglass, leaving two ragged holes.
>>
>> Drawing 2 shows the preparation for the fix. An oblong hole
>> has been cut in the fiberglass and the edges have been
>> beveled to improve adherence of a epoxy-fiberglass patch to
>> be applied later. The edge of the hole is at least 1/2" and
>> optimally 1" away from the former screw holes.
>>
>> Drawing 3 shows the marine plywood reinforcing block being
>> inserted thru the hole into the blind space. Note that there
>> is a hole in the middle and a piece of small stuff is used to
>> control it. The string will be used later to hold the block
>> in place while sealant sets up.
>>
>> Drawing 4 shows the block being adhered in place, held up by
>> the string. Any adhesive could be used, but I prefer 3M 5200.
>>
>> Drawing 5 shows the epoxy-and-fiber filler in place, ready to
>> be sanded down and finish-coated (gel-coat, paint or epoxy).
>>
>> Drawing 6 shows the finished repair with the cleat in place.
>>
>> /Robert Skinner Coordinates N43° 41.330', W70° 24.889'
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>> Slim wrote:
>>>
>>> Rummy,
>>>
>>> Last time I squirted some two-part epoxy into and across the holes,
>>> redrilled and screwed it all back in. It lasted less than a year and has
>>> now stripped out again. It's a thin layer of glass and hollow
> underneath.
>>> There's nothing substantial for the goop to adhere to and no bulk for the
>>> screws to bite on.
>>
>> Name: Patch-1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 45819 bytes Desc: not available
>> Url:
>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200608/19/Patch-1.jpg
>>
>> Name: Patch-2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 90528 bytes Desc: not available
>> Url:
>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200608/19/Patch-2.jpg
>>
>> Name: Patch-3.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 40048 bytes Desc: not available
>> Url:
>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200608/19/Patch-3.jpg
>>
>> Name: Patch-4.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 62252 bytes Desc: not available
>> Url:
>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200608/19/Patch-4.jpg
>>
>> Name: Patch-5.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 76236 bytes Desc: not available
>> Url:
>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200608/19/Patch-5.jpg
>>
>> Name: Patch-6.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 67634 bytes Desc: not available
>> Url:
>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200608/19/Patch-6.jpg
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
More information about the Rhodes22-list
mailing list