[Rhodes22-list] Bob Mellor and the Gift - Now Stringer/Floorreplacements

[bobmellor]

Jack..  thanks for the input...  I don't think the cap being off would affect
the trunk walls... (least I hope not mine has been off as well - and i have
not rechecked it).  Do note that the pin cannot be too snug, needs to be
free to ride up and down in addition to pivoting (- learned that lesson the
hard way)  Any possibility that water could have been in the keel and
froze/expanded?
bob m



Comehere Jack wrote:
> 
> Bob -
> My guess (worth what it costs you) is that any change in hull shape will
> be
> compensated for by deflection in the new (?)cabin sole, assuming it's
> screwed to the new stringers, and they're tabbed to the hull. If the hull
> flexes outward as the weight comes off the bunks, the sole develops a bit
> of
> a concavity.  Just makes it easier to find your bowling ball (always in
> the
> center of the cabin floor).
> 
> I don't recall the year of your boat & that may make a difference. My 81
> is
> currently torn apart much like yours. I've replaced all four stringers,
> and--like you--found no aft cross member. I hadn't considered the
> likelihood
> of problems from hull deformation, but since you raise the question, I'm
> scratching my head over a related one:
> 
> Last fall I pulled the centerboard on Pax during the stringer replacement
> adventure. It was clear that the CB pendant and its tube needed replacing,
> and I thought a coat of bottom paint was in order.  Winter (and life) got
> in
> the way, and last week when I tried to reinstall the CB, I ran into an odd
> problem.  The piece that I'd identified as the CB pivot pin doesn't fit.
> It's the right diameter, but it's nearly a half-inch too long.  I assumed
> that I'd just confused a loose piece of scrap tubing with the real CB
> pivot.
> Now you've got me wondering; could the cb housing have been squeezed
> together that much from sitting  with the cap off for seven months on the
> trailer ?   Hmmmm.  
> 
> I think I may get out the jacks & cribbing before I order a new pin.
> 
> Comments/suggestions from liberal, conservative & undeclared board members
> welcome!
> 
> Jack Chirch
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of bobmellor
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 3:52 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bob Mellor and the Gift - Now
> Stringer/Floorreplacements
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> Thanks once again for your input.... I am forever grateful for any and all
> help.
> 
> I had already scoured the archives for many topics.... using the "ask"
> search method and others.   I've collected a vast amount of info on many
> topics, but have not found the answer for this particular question.  
> (interestingly the specific search link you provide points me to a few of
> my
> own previous posts).
> 
> I already had Casey's books and visited epoxyworks, and (I believe it was
> your previous recommendation) have picked up a copy of Vaitses' book.  I
> am
> now familiar with tabbing procedures, "hard" spots, etc... and have a
> little
> expoy experience under my belt since doing several other repairs.
> 
> My specific question is the recommended "state" of the boat when
> positioning
> and replacing the stringers and floor.
> 
> I realize that this assembly contributes to the structural stiffening of
> the
> boat, and that (especially with stringers and floor etc removed) there
> must
> be some deformation in the hull shape when in the water versus on the
> trailer, versus hanging on the eyes, etc..etc...
> 
> I may be overthinking (and very well may be wrong) that on the trailer
> with
> the bunks, the cross section of the hull might be compressed so that it is
> slightly narrower than it would be on the water or hanging from the eyes. 
> If that is correct, I would also think it might be better to put the
> stringers/floor in without the bunk pressure, so the in the water     it
> would be closer to an "unstressed" condition and on the tralier in a
> compressed condition.  If done on the trailer, the stess in the water
> would
> be more like an expansion action trying to pull it apart.  (Not sure how
> the
> longitudinal cross section would be affected on trailer, water, or
> hanging)
> 
> Currently the two middle stringers and the starboard stringer are out.  
> It
> does not appear that the middle pair of stringers were ever attached to
> the
> forward crosspiece.  The rear ends of all four stringers are not attached
> to
> anything.  (There was no rear cross piece as shown in some of the archives
> diagrams).  The starboard stringer, having no rear atttachement, was
> severly
> warped at the aft end backwards under the galley base.  
> 
> Again, I might be overthinking this and it may not be significant one way
> or
> the other, I just want to do it correctly.
> 
> My  specific questions:
> 
> 1. what "state" of the boat is best for this replacement - on trailer, in
> water, hangiing by eyes, or on a homemade cradle of some type?  (or does
> it
> not make a significant difference)
> 
> 2.  should I add a rear crossmember to connect aft ends of stringers?
> 
> 3. should the forward ends of the middle stringers be physically fastened
> to
> the front crossmember?
> 
> I'll be emailing Stan as well directly on this as all of the answers may
> or
> may not be known to the list.
> 
> diagram attached
> http://www.nabble.com/file/7885/stringers.JPG 
> 
> Thanks all..
> 
> bob m
>    
> 
> 
> B
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.4.0/761 - Release Date: 4/14/2007
> 9:36 PM
>  
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> 
> 

-- 
View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/RE%3A-Bob-Mellor-and-the-Gift---Now-Stringer-Floor-replacements-tf3580910.html#a10006846
Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.