[Rhodes22-list] Bob Mellor and the Gift - Now Stringer/Floorreplacements
Jack Chirch
jchirch at hughes.net
Sun Apr 15 19:59:34 EDT 2007
The keel is thoroughly dried out (and has been all winter) so I don't think
that's the problem. I'll let you know if it turns out to be a hull flex
issue.
Jack C.
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of bobmellor
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 5:06 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bob Mellor and the Gift - Now
Stringer/Floorreplacements
Jack.. thanks for the input... I don't think the cap being off would
affect the trunk walls... (least I hope not mine has been off as well - and
i have not rechecked it). Do note that the pin cannot be too snug, needs to
be free to ride up and down in addition to pivoting (- learned that lesson
the hard way) Any possibility that water could have been in the keel and
froze/expanded?
bob m
Comehere Jack wrote:
>
> Bob -
> My guess (worth what it costs you) is that any change in hull shape
> will be compensated for by deflection in the new (?)cabin sole,
> assuming it's screwed to the new stringers, and they're tabbed to the
> hull. If the hull flexes outward as the weight comes off the bunks,
> the sole develops a bit of a concavity. Just makes it easier to find
> your bowling ball (always in the center of the cabin floor).
>
> I don't recall the year of your boat & that may make a difference. My
> 81 is currently torn apart much like yours. I've replaced all four
> stringers, and--like you--found no aft cross member. I hadn't
> considered the likelihood of problems from hull deformation, but since
> you raise the question, I'm scratching my head over a related one:
>
> Last fall I pulled the centerboard on Pax during the stringer
> replacement adventure. It was clear that the CB pendant and its tube
> needed replacing, and I thought a coat of bottom paint was in order.
> Winter (and life) got in the way, and last week when I tried to
> reinstall the CB, I ran into an odd problem. The piece that I'd
> identified as the CB pivot pin doesn't fit.
> It's the right diameter, but it's nearly a half-inch too long. I
> assumed that I'd just confused a loose piece of scrap tubing with the
> real CB pivot.
> Now you've got me wondering; could the cb housing have been squeezed
> together that much from sitting with the cap off for seven months on the
> trailer ? Hmmmm.
>
> I think I may get out the jacks & cribbing before I order a new pin.
>
> Comments/suggestions from liberal, conservative & undeclared board
> members welcome!
>
> Jack Chirch
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of bobmellor
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 3:52 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bob Mellor and the Gift - Now
> Stringer/Floorreplacements
>
>
> Ed
>
> Thanks once again for your input.... I am forever grateful for any and
> all help.
>
> I had already scoured the archives for many topics.... using the "ask"
> search method and others. I've collected a vast amount of info on many
> topics, but have not found the answer for this particular question.
> (interestingly the specific search link you provide points me to a few
> of my own previous posts).
>
> I already had Casey's books and visited epoxyworks, and (I believe it
> was your previous recommendation) have picked up a copy of Vaitses'
> book. I am now familiar with tabbing procedures, "hard" spots, etc...
> and have a little expoy experience under my belt since doing several
> other repairs.
>
> My specific question is the recommended "state" of the boat when
> positioning and replacing the stringers and floor.
>
> I realize that this assembly contributes to the structural stiffening
> of the boat, and that (especially with stringers and floor etc
> removed) there must be some deformation in the hull shape when in the
> water versus on the trailer, versus hanging on the eyes, etc..etc...
>
> I may be overthinking (and very well may be wrong) that on the trailer
> with the bunks, the cross section of the hull might be compressed so
> that it is slightly narrower than it would be on the water or hanging
> from the eyes.
> If that is correct, I would also think it might be better to put the
> stringers/floor in without the bunk pressure, so the in the water it
> would be closer to an "unstressed" condition and on the tralier in a
> compressed condition. If done on the trailer, the stess in the water
> would be more like an expansion action trying to pull it apart. (Not
> sure how the longitudinal cross section would be affected on trailer,
> water, or
> hanging)
>
> Currently the two middle stringers and the starboard stringer are out.
> It
> does not appear that the middle pair of stringers were ever attached
> to the forward crosspiece. The rear ends of all four stringers are
> not attached to anything. (There was no rear cross piece as shown in
> some of the archives diagrams). The starboard stringer, having no
> rear atttachement, was severly warped at the aft end backwards under
> the galley base.
>
> Again, I might be overthinking this and it may not be significant one
> way or the other, I just want to do it correctly.
>
> My specific questions:
>
> 1. what "state" of the boat is best for this replacement - on trailer,
> in water, hangiing by eyes, or on a homemade cradle of some type? (or
> does it not make a significant difference)
>
> 2. should I add a rear crossmember to connect aft ends of stringers?
>
> 3. should the forward ends of the middle stringers be physically
> fastened to the front crossmember?
>
> I'll be emailing Stan as well directly on this as all of the answers
> may or may not be known to the list.
>
> diagram attached
> http://www.nabble.com/file/7885/stringers.JPG
>
> Thanks all..
>
> bob m
>
>
>
> B
>
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