[Rhodes22-list] Electrical Advice

Tue Jul 22 10:59:52 EDT 2008

Leland,

Ed says that "corroded sockets could increase current draw" and he is only 
partially correct.  A corroded contact introduces resistance in series with 
the load and actually reduces the current draw.  So how can Ed be partially 
correct?  Evidence of corrosion in a socket indicates that water is present 
due to a failed seal.  Water mixed with metallic salts is conductive and can 
cause additional current to flow if the water forms an electrical leakage 
path.  In order to draw enough current to blow a fuse or breaker, the 
leakage must be significant.  You should be able to find it easily by 
looking for evidence.

More likely, a twisted wire pair with poor insulation or a bad socket is 
forming an intermittent short circuit, blowing the breaker with boat or crew 
movement.  This may be much more difficult to isolate.  I would open and 
inspect each lamp first and then look at all exposed wiring.  The exposed 
wire to the stern lamp runs under the starboard cockpit seats and through 
the lazarette in my '81 and is easy to inspect.  It would be my first 
suspect after the actual sockets are inspected.

Also, you should use an ammeter to check the current in the circuit to be 
sure that the breaker is OK.  Many DC breakers respond by overheating and 
deforming a bimetallic strip when excess current is drawn (unlike their AC 
cousins that utilize a magnetic trip mechanism) and the bimetallic strip is 
not the most stable product in the world, especially in marine environments. 
The use of the breaker as a switch may also shorten it's life.

Mike
s/v Shanghaid'd Summer ('81)
       Nissequogue River, NY

From: "Tootle" <ekroposki at charter.net>Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 10:36 AM
>
> Lee said, "I assume I have too many lights connected to one breaker."  If
> there are no other issues that is the most logical reason.
>
> However, could there be other reasons.  Breaker tripping means load not
> open.  Just recently we had big discussion of wattage of bulbs.  So, could
> some of your bulbs be of higher wattage than should be?  Someone wanted
> brighter lights?  Even some of Stan's workers could make that error.
>
> Are the bulb sockets clean and free of corrosion?  Dirty and corroded
> sockets could increase current draw.
>
> So you have on available breaker socket?  Why not get one new breaker and
> put part of load on it, if it can be wired.  Since you are dealing with DC
> current they may have it wired daisey chain with no way of spitting 
> circuit
> in two.  But I would look to do this, even if you find high wattage bulbs,
> because you are evidentially happy with the light provided.
>
> Another option would be to replace some of the bulbs with low draw LED's.
> But that is another whole topic.
>
> Political Statement:  As to being an Obama hater, I just expect the 
> highest
> standards from elected officials and as such he should be forthright about
> his political philosophy.  He partially does that when he states that he 
> is
> a progressive, but how many understand that to mean Marxist?
>
> Ed K
> Greenville, SC, USA
> http://www.nabble.com/file/p18589417/After%2Belection....jpg
> After+election....jpg
>
>
> Leland wrote:
>>
>> Finally spent my first night on the boat last Thursday.  Departed Kent
>> Island a little after 7:00 p.m. and dropped anchor near Annapolis seven
>> hours later.  Conditions couldn't have been better.  The full moon lit up
>> the Chesapeake and the winds kept us cool and moving along at about an
>> average of three knots.  Didn't need the motor except for getting in and
>> out of the marina and anchorage, but 7 hours x 3 knots = 21 miles for
>> about a 15 mile trip.  I can understand why sailboat cruisers motor 60% 
>> of
>> the time.
>>
>> Did run into one small problem.  The breaker for the running lights kept
>> switching off.  I assume I have too many lights connected to one breaker,
>> but I'd love to hear some other theories and solutions.  Here's how my
>> panel is configured:
>>
>> 1.  Mast Head Light (only for the light on the mast)
>>
>> 2.  Running Lights - this is the only one that kept breaking off (stern
>> light, red port light, green starboard light, compass light)
>>
>> 3.  Cabin Lights (two sets of double lights found on most Rhodes and a
>> reading light over the settee) - seems like this would draw more power
>> than the running lights
>>
>> 4.  12 VDC Outlets (12 volt receptacles)
>>
>> 5.  Instruments (only for the depth/fish finder)
>>
>> 6.  Spare (no switch)
>>
>> 7.  AC Main Shore (110 receptacle)
>>
>> Any advice is appreciated--thanks!
>>
>> Lee
>> 1986 Rhodes22  At Ease
>> Kent Island, MD
>>
> http://www.nabble.com/file/p18589417/After%2Belection....jpg
> After+election....jpg
> -- 
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>
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