[Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to Saroj

R22RumRunner at aol.com R22RumRunner at aol.com
Tue Oct 28 17:47:54 EDT 2008


Saroj,
Silicone sealant was made to be used in a compression gasket, so it is the  
perfect thing for your gasket seal. You will want to hand tighten the bolts and 
 then starting in the middle, siz zag back and forth from side to side 
working  towards the ends. This will assure that you have equal pressure in all 
areas and  no lumps in the middle.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 10/28/2008 3:08:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lsr3 at nyu.edu writes:

Saroj

Yes I am the one who posted the article with Roger on the  Owner's site.
when I finally get MySpace page up it will have more pics of  the job.

insofar as  tightening or torquing the bolts so that no  leak occurs I  
will say that its one of the most important jobs  before launcing.
My CB is still a work in progress so I will pull it after  just  
sailing the first 3 months after working on the boat for 4yrs..  Only  
to check the
pivot and examine my trunk.  My board gave  me absolutely no problem  
and Im pulling the boat out Friday, God  willing.

Ok for the threading  I truly believe that the pennant  line should be  
connected through its hole then treaded to two mini  blocks or  
something that functions as such on the cap.  You are  saying below  
that your line starts from a "small U bracket fore of  the foremost  
block on the cap".   For a true mechanical  advantage in this small  
area to work I think you need 2 blocks on  the board and two on the  
cap.   Btw if you research the  archives you will see a  few pictures  
of how the board is  supposed to be threaded.   I completely ripped   
out  what makeshift things I had when i looked inside and installed   
Harken Mini blocks which are really not that expensive. I made a   
Ushaped bracket to hold my dual mini block Harken which attaches to   
the inside of my cap with 2  1/4x20 bolts.

Last June I made  the mistake of using 5200 and got too much on the  
pennant.  I  had to re install the board again ( one day wasted) and  
used  Silicone sealant from Boatlife.  Just make sure you protect the   
pennant from any sealant with a light plastic wrap from your   
kitchen.   I also bought a  new Neoprene gasket and punched  holes .  
This fall I intend to re use the neoprene if possible by  soaking the  
gasket in mineral spirits for a few days.

As Ed  said 5200 is for permanent things on the boat.  Not the CB   
gasket or the cap as you should look at it every few years on a good   
boat.
good luck
Lou



On Oct 28, 2008, at 2:27 PM,  Saroj Gilbert wrote:

> Hey, Ed, Ben, Rob, Rik, Rummy,  Lou,
>
> Thanks all for the info.  Based on what I've read,  I'm going to  
> replace all
> the screws with  bolts.
>
> Lou, are you the one who did the write-up with Roger in  2005-2006?   
> When you
> say "torque" are you implying  you actually used a torque wrench or  
> just as a
>  euphemism for "tightened"?
>
> My centerboard lift line has a  different configuration from that in  
> the
> article I  referenced above.  It starts from a small U bracket fore  
>  of the
> foremost block on the cap.  Since the blocks on the CB  were broken  
> I don't
> know how it was threaded below, but  it seems to have gone from that  
> loop
> thru the highest  block on the CB, back up to the the foremost block  
> on  the
> cap (an inch aft of the loop), back down to the lower block on  the  
> CB (2-3
> inches below the other one) then up thru  the aft block on the cap  
> which acts
> as a fair lead,  then thru the hole and nipple for the lift line.   
> It  seems
> that there should be another block lower down on the CB to give  an  
> extra
> mechanical advantage and more pull on the  extreme, but I never had any
> trouble raising or lowering the CB before  the break.
>
> I'm still wondering what sealant/caulk to  use.  The guy at West Marine
> recommended 3M 4200 but I think it  is essentially an adhesive like  
> 5200,
> just not as  permanent.  Lou, what did you use?  Seems like an  
>  underwater
> silicone (like Silicone II) would work well.  I've  never had any  
> trouble
> with leaking, but I might as well  do it right while its apart.  I  
> would
> consider  changing the gasket but it appears to be in very good  
>  condition.
>
> I've been renovating a 1937 house for the past 4  years, so  
> Pathfinder has
> been on the hard in my back  yard during that time.  It wasn't worth  
> paying
> the  slip fees when I didn't have time to use it.  We're replacing   
> the mast
> lights... the anchor light lens was cloudy and I  lost the steaming/ 
> deck
> light when a branch fell on it.   I'm replacing the anchor light  
> with an
> incandescent,  but the steaming/deck light with LED.  Figure that  
> will  help
> the battery charging life, and will be installing a solar panel  for  
> trickle
> charge.
>
> All of the  brightwork needs sanding & varnishing and have to clean  
> up  some
> sap on the deck.  Washed all the lines and the sails and she  is  
> just about
> back to sailing condition.  She  still looks great even at her  
> advanced age
> of 24  years!
>
> I'll continue on with the cosmetic work (screens,  varnish,  
> polishingetc.)
> over the next year; but we're  hoping to get a few sails in before  
> winter
> "really"  gets here, although the way things are going that may be
>  optimisitc.  Monday afternoon it was delightful sailing  weather.   
> Today it
> is windy and cold...  unseasonably for this region.
>
> Ed, I met a fellow from Richmond  a few years ago (Rob, was that  
> you?), but I
> haven't run  into any Rhodes owners in the Tidewater region.  I'm  
>  living in
> Hampton now.
>
> Thanks all for your well wishes  and the great information to help  
> us get
> this project  completed.
>
> Saroj
>
>
> ----- Original  Message -----
> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at nyu.edu>
> To:  "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent:  Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list]  centerboard repair - cap sealant?  
> reply to
>  Saroj
>
>
> Rik
>
> I use 10x24 ss bolts on my  cap.  I prefer to tighten the nut under
> the cap using a closed  end wrench with
> my  electric driver and the correct wide phillips  bit in place.  Do a
> criss cross pattern like lacing up  boots
> and torque the nut with a rachet wrench with the phillips bit  and
> just hold the nut in place with the same closed end wrench  (7/16")
> took me about 1hr to do 46 bolts.
>
> Ive  overhauled my entire centerboard cap, trunk and board including
> the  mechanical advantage
>
> Lou
> sv  Miracles
>
>
> On Oct 28, 2008, at 11:43 AM,  R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Rik,
>> It takes  really small hands and a second person. I recommend using an
>>  electric driver or you will be spending the better part of a day
>>  installing all  of
>> them. I have never seen screws used on the  trunk cap.
>>
>> Rummy
>>
>>
>>  In a message dated 10/28/2008 11:21:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>  sanderico1 at gmail.com writes:
>>
>>  Ed,
>>
>> I have to ask, how would you use through bolts on  the  centerboard
>> cap of
>> an R22?? I can't imagine  how you are going to hold the  nuts to
>> tighten  them.
>>
>> Rik
>>
>> Will Rogers often  said, "There's  nothing quite like money in the
>> bank."  He
>> went on to say, "I'm not so  concerned about the return on  my money
>> as I am
>> about the return of my   money."
>>
>>
>>
>> Tootle  wrote:
>>> Saroj:
>>>
>>> As to   sealants, do not use 5200 like some boat builders.  It is
>>>  called
>>>  sealant but it is permanent and prevents future  repair,
>>> painting,  etc.
>>>
>>> I  recommend a sealant that says for under water  use.  3M 4000  or
>>> 4200 are
>>> numbers I can think of  quickly.   Go to the 3M website and see
>>> which one  is
>>> for underwater use.  (I  know the cap is not  underwater, except at
>>> times)
>>>
>>>  Another  popular product is Boat Life Sealant, not Boat Life  Caulk.
>>>
>>> As  to silicone products, make  sure it says for underwater use.
>>> Silicone
>>  II
>>> is said to be the better formulation of silcone  sealants.
>>>
>>> I would not go to Lowes.  Go to  any dockside marine  store or if
>>> you have  to
>>> the high dollar 'West Marine'.  It would  be  better to pay the few
>>> extra
>>> schekels at West  to get a quality  product.
>>>
>>> As to screws  and bolts, Stan uses a million bolts at  the shop.
>>> Maybe  older
>>> boats had a mix, but I would opt to go to  thru  bolts, all one
>>> million of
>>> them.  Also,  after you tighten all  the first time, go around a
>>> second  time
>>> and maybe a third.  A  small 1/4" rachet works  for this job.  If
>>> you do not
>>> have  one,  head for Sears and get a Craftsman  set.
>>>
>>> It is good to see your  post.   Are in in contact with any other
>>>  'Tidewater'
>>>  Rhodies?
>>>
>>> Ed  K
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  Saroj  Gilbert wrote:
>>>
>>>> any chance I  can ask a  question about the Rhodes22?  LOL...
>>>>
>>>> my centerboard  would not  raise or lower so friend and I took the
>>>>  cap
>>>> apart; found  that the blocks had broken off the  CB; scraped,
>>>> sanded, and
>>>>  painted  the inside of the cap, the well and the CB (all
>>>>  encrusted  with
>>>> barnacles).  We have it put back  together except for the  cap
>>>> which has  the
>>>> gasket which was already there... appears in   pretty good  
>>>> shape.  We
>>>>  modified some blocks which was  challenging since the  attachment
>>>> area is so
>>>> small.   Also did  some fiberglass repair on the CB and the  keel.
>>>>
>>>> Two   questions:
>>>>
>>>> - most of the holes had  screws but some had  bolts... I assume
>>>> that  an
>>>> earlier owner had stripped out the screw   holes.  Is it likely
>>>> that reusing
>>>>  the screws will provide  sufficient pressure to prevent leaks  or
>>>> should we
>>>> go to the  trouble  of replacing all with bolts... I'd prefer not
>>>>  because
>>>>  there are so many, but I don't want leaks  obviously.
>>>>
>>>> -  what sealant should  we use? I took off the old sealant which
>>>> was a   blue
>>>> colored rubbery substance that came off pretty easily  from  both
>>>> sides.
>>>> Roger's  instructions said to use silicone.  Is  there a
>>>>  particular type or
>>>> any old stuff from Lowes?  If  we  use silicon, do we need to let
>>>> it cure  a
>>>> little before clamping  down 100% to give it a  chance to cure?
>>>> (seems to me
>>>> it  requires  air to start the curing process).  Has anyone  used
>>>> RTV...
>>>>  overkill for this  application?
>>>>
>>>> I have searched and   searched for the tech info material that was
>>>>  created
>>>> and organized  years ago with no luck.   Can someone give me a URL
>>>> for it  or
>>>>  does it no longer  exist?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,  Saroj
>>>>   __________________________________________________
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>>>> go  to
>>>>  http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>   __________________________________________________
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
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