[Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to Saroj
Saroj Gilbert
saroj at pathfind.net
Tue Oct 28 17:56:35 EDT 2008
Is that just plain ole Silicon II from Lowes? I notice that West Marine
charges 3 times as much for the same stuff that I can get at Lowes.
Thanks
Saroj
----- Original Message -----
From: <R22RumRunner at aol.com>
To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to
Saroj
> Saroj,
> Silicone sealant was made to be used in a compression gasket, so it is the
> perfect thing for your gasket seal. You will want to hand tighten the
> bolts and
> then starting in the middle, siz zag back and forth from side to side
> working towards the ends. This will assure that you have equal pressure
> in all
> areas and no lumps in the middle.
>
> Rummy
>
>
> In a message dated 10/28/2008 3:08:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> lsr3 at nyu.edu writes:
>
> Saroj
>
> Yes I am the one who posted the article with Roger on the Owner's site.
> when I finally get MySpace page up it will have more pics of the job.
>
> insofar as tightening or torquing the bolts so that no leak occurs I
> will say that its one of the most important jobs before launcing.
> My CB is still a work in progress so I will pull it after just
> sailing the first 3 months after working on the boat for 4yrs.. Only
> to check the
> pivot and examine my trunk. My board gave me absolutely no problem
> and Im pulling the boat out Friday, God willing.
>
> Ok for the threading I truly believe that the pennant line should be
> connected through its hole then treaded to two mini blocks or
> something that functions as such on the cap. You are saying below
> that your line starts from a "small U bracket fore of the foremost
> block on the cap". For a true mechanical advantage in this small
> area to work I think you need 2 blocks on the board and two on the
> cap. Btw if you research the archives you will see a few pictures
> of how the board is supposed to be threaded. I completely ripped
> out what makeshift things I had when i looked inside and installed
> Harken Mini blocks which are really not that expensive. I made a
> Ushaped bracket to hold my dual mini block Harken which attaches to
> the inside of my cap with 2 1/4x20 bolts.
>
> Last June I made the mistake of using 5200 and got too much on the
> pennant. I had to re install the board again ( one day wasted) and
> used Silicone sealant from Boatlife. Just make sure you protect the
> pennant from any sealant with a light plastic wrap from your
> kitchen. I also bought a new Neoprene gasket and punched holes .
> This fall I intend to re use the neoprene if possible by soaking the
> gasket in mineral spirits for a few days.
>
> As Ed said 5200 is for permanent things on the boat. Not the CB
> gasket or the cap as you should look at it every few years on a good
> boat.
> good luck
> Lou
>
>
>
> On Oct 28, 2008, at 2:27 PM, Saroj Gilbert wrote:
>
>> Hey, Ed, Ben, Rob, Rik, Rummy, Lou,
>>
>> Thanks all for the info. Based on what I've read, I'm going to
>> replace all
>> the screws with bolts.
>>
>> Lou, are you the one who did the write-up with Roger in 2005-2006?
>> When you
>> say "torque" are you implying you actually used a torque wrench or
>> just as a
>> euphemism for "tightened"?
>>
>> My centerboard lift line has a different configuration from that in
>> the
>> article I referenced above. It starts from a small U bracket fore
>> of the
>> foremost block on the cap. Since the blocks on the CB were broken
>> I don't
>> know how it was threaded below, but it seems to have gone from that
>> loop
>> thru the highest block on the CB, back up to the the foremost block
>> on the
>> cap (an inch aft of the loop), back down to the lower block on the
>> CB (2-3
>> inches below the other one) then up thru the aft block on the cap
>> which acts
>> as a fair lead, then thru the hole and nipple for the lift line.
>> It seems
>> that there should be another block lower down on the CB to give an
>> extra
>> mechanical advantage and more pull on the extreme, but I never had any
>> trouble raising or lowering the CB before the break.
>>
>> I'm still wondering what sealant/caulk to use. The guy at West Marine
>> recommended 3M 4200 but I think it is essentially an adhesive like
>> 5200,
>> just not as permanent. Lou, what did you use? Seems like an
>> underwater
>> silicone (like Silicone II) would work well. I've never had any
>> trouble
>> with leaking, but I might as well do it right while its apart. I
>> would
>> consider changing the gasket but it appears to be in very good
>> condition.
>>
>> I've been renovating a 1937 house for the past 4 years, so
>> Pathfinder has
>> been on the hard in my back yard during that time. It wasn't worth
>> paying
>> the slip fees when I didn't have time to use it. We're replacing
>> the mast
>> lights... the anchor light lens was cloudy and I lost the steaming/
>> deck
>> light when a branch fell on it. I'm replacing the anchor light
>> with an
>> incandescent, but the steaming/deck light with LED. Figure that
>> will help
>> the battery charging life, and will be installing a solar panel for
>> trickle
>> charge.
>>
>> All of the brightwork needs sanding & varnishing and have to clean
>> up some
>> sap on the deck. Washed all the lines and the sails and she is
>> just about
>> back to sailing condition. She still looks great even at her
>> advanced age
>> of 24 years!
>>
>> I'll continue on with the cosmetic work (screens, varnish,
>> polishingetc.)
>> over the next year; but we're hoping to get a few sails in before
>> winter
>> "really" gets here, although the way things are going that may be
>> optimisitc. Monday afternoon it was delightful sailing weather.
>> Today it
>> is windy and cold... unseasonably for this region.
>>
>> Ed, I met a fellow from Richmond a few years ago (Rob, was that
>> you?), but I
>> haven't run into any Rhodes owners in the Tidewater region. I'm
>> living in
>> Hampton now.
>>
>> Thanks all for your well wishes and the great information to help
>> us get
>> this project completed.
>>
>> Saroj
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at nyu.edu>
>> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:32 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant?
>> reply to
>> Saroj
>>
>>
>> Rik
>>
>> I use 10x24 ss bolts on my cap. I prefer to tighten the nut under
>> the cap using a closed end wrench with
>> my electric driver and the correct wide phillips bit in place. Do a
>> criss cross pattern like lacing up boots
>> and torque the nut with a rachet wrench with the phillips bit and
>> just hold the nut in place with the same closed end wrench (7/16")
>> took me about 1hr to do 46 bolts.
>>
>> Ive overhauled my entire centerboard cap, trunk and board including
>> the mechanical advantage
>>
>> Lou
>> sv Miracles
>>
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2008, at 11:43 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Rik,
>>> It takes really small hands and a second person. I recommend using an
>>> electric driver or you will be spending the better part of a day
>>> installing all of
>>> them. I have never seen screws used on the trunk cap.
>>>
>>> Rummy
>>>
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/28/2008 11:21:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>> sanderico1 at gmail.com writes:
>>>
>>> Ed,
>>>
>>> I have to ask, how would you use through bolts on the centerboard
>>> cap of
>>> an R22?? I can't imagine how you are going to hold the nuts to
>>> tighten them.
>>>
>>> Rik
>>>
>>> Will Rogers often said, "There's nothing quite like money in the
>>> bank." He
>>> went on to say, "I'm not so concerned about the return on my money
>>> as I am
>>> about the return of my money."
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tootle wrote:
>>>> Saroj:
>>>>
>>>> As to sealants, do not use 5200 like some boat builders. It is
>>>> called
>>>> sealant but it is permanent and prevents future repair,
>>>> painting, etc.
>>>>
>>>> I recommend a sealant that says for under water use. 3M 4000 or
>>>> 4200 are
>>>> numbers I can think of quickly. Go to the 3M website and see
>>>> which one is
>>>> for underwater use. (I know the cap is not underwater, except at
>>>> times)
>>>>
>>>> Another popular product is Boat Life Sealant, not Boat Life Caulk.
>>>>
>>>> As to silicone products, make sure it says for underwater use.
>>>> Silicone
>>> II
>>>> is said to be the better formulation of silcone sealants.
>>>>
>>>> I would not go to Lowes. Go to any dockside marine store or if
>>>> you have to
>>>> the high dollar 'West Marine'. It would be better to pay the few
>>>> extra
>>>> schekels at West to get a quality product.
>>>>
>>>> As to screws and bolts, Stan uses a million bolts at the shop.
>>>> Maybe older
>>>> boats had a mix, but I would opt to go to thru bolts, all one
>>>> million of
>>>> them. Also, after you tighten all the first time, go around a
>>>> second time
>>>> and maybe a third. A small 1/4" rachet works for this job. If
>>>> you do not
>>>> have one, head for Sears and get a Craftsman set.
>>>>
>>>> It is good to see your post. Are in in contact with any other
>>>> 'Tidewater'
>>>> Rhodies?
>>>>
>>>> Ed K
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Saroj Gilbert wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> any chance I can ask a question about the Rhodes22? LOL...
>>>>>
>>>>> my centerboard would not raise or lower so friend and I took the
>>>>> cap
>>>>> apart; found that the blocks had broken off the CB; scraped,
>>>>> sanded, and
>>>>> painted the inside of the cap, the well and the CB (all
>>>>> encrusted with
>>>>> barnacles). We have it put back together except for the cap
>>>>> which has the
>>>>> gasket which was already there... appears in pretty good
>>>>> shape. We
>>>>> modified some blocks which was challenging since the attachment
>>>>> area is so
>>>>> small. Also did some fiberglass repair on the CB and the keel.
>>>>>
>>>>> Two questions:
>>>>>
>>>>> - most of the holes had screws but some had bolts... I assume
>>>>> that an
>>>>> earlier owner had stripped out the screw holes. Is it likely
>>>>> that reusing
>>>>> the screws will provide sufficient pressure to prevent leaks or
>>>>> should we
>>>>> go to the trouble of replacing all with bolts... I'd prefer not
>>>>> because
>>>>> there are so many, but I don't want leaks obviously.
>>>>>
>>>>> - what sealant should we use? I took off the old sealant which
>>>>> was a blue
>>>>> colored rubbery substance that came off pretty easily from both
>>>>> sides.
>>>>> Roger's instructions said to use silicone. Is there a
>>>>> particular type or
>>>>> any old stuff from Lowes? If we use silicon, do we need to let
>>>>> it cure a
>>>>> little before clamping down 100% to give it a chance to cure?
>>>>> (seems to me
>>>>> it requires air to start the curing process). Has anyone used
>>>>> RTV...
>>>>> overkill for this application?
>>>>>
>>>>> I have searched and searched for the tech info material that was
>>>>> created
>>>>> and organized years ago with no luck. Can someone give me a URL
>>>>> for it or
>>>>> does it no longer exist?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Saroj
>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list
>>>>> go to
>>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list
>>> go to
>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>> **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your
>>> favorites,
>>> no registration required and great graphics – check it out!
>>> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?
>>> redir=
>>> http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001)
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list go
>>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list go to
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>>
>> __________ NOD32 2461 (20070815) Information __________
>>
>> This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list go
>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
> **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your
> favorites,
> no registration required and great graphics – check it out!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir=
> http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001)
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with using the mailing list go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
More information about the Rhodes22-list
mailing list