[Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to Saroj
elle
watermusic38 at yahoo.com
Tue Oct 28 23:08:13 EDT 2008
Saroj,
We're neighbors, of sorts.....I'm just a bit up the road in the upper Northern Neck...I go to Newport News every two weeks on marina business.......and will go thru Hampton in two weeks on my way to the Outer Banks for a photo workshop.....
elle
We can't change the angle of the wind....but we can adjust our sails.
1992 Rhodes 22 Recyc '06 "WaterMusic" (Lady in Red)
--- On Tue, 10/28/08, Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net> wrote:
> From: Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to Saroj
> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 2:27 PM
> Hey, Ed, Ben, Rob, Rik, Rummy, Lou,
>
> Thanks all for the info. Based on what I've read,
> I'm going to replace all
> the screws with bolts.
>
> Lou, are you the one who did the write-up with Roger in
> 2005-2006? When you
> say "torque" are you implying you actually used a
> torque wrench or just as a
> euphemism for "tightened"?
>
> My centerboard lift line has a different configuration from
> that in the
> article I referenced above. It starts from a small U
> bracket fore of the
> foremost block on the cap. Since the blocks on the CB were
> broken I don't
> know how it was threaded below, but it seems to have gone
> from that loop
> thru the highest block on the CB, back up to the the
> foremost block on the
> cap (an inch aft of the loop), back down to the lower block
> on the CB (2-3
> inches below the other one) then up thru the aft block on
> the cap which acts
> as a fair lead, then thru the hole and nipple for the lift
> line. It seems
> that there should be another block lower down on the CB to
> give an extra
> mechanical advantage and more pull on the extreme, but I
> never had any
> trouble raising or lowering the CB before the break.
>
> I'm still wondering what sealant/caulk to use. The guy
> at West Marine
> recommended 3M 4200 but I think it is essentially an
> adhesive like 5200,
> just not as permanent. Lou, what did you use? Seems like
> an underwater
> silicone (like Silicone II) would work well. I've
> never had any trouble
> with leaking, but I might as well do it right while its
> apart. I would
> consider changing the gasket but it appears to be in very
> good condition.
>
> I've been renovating a 1937 house for the past 4 years,
> so Pathfinder has
> been on the hard in my back yard during that time. It
> wasn't worth paying
> the slip fees when I didn't have time to use it.
> We're replacing the mast
> lights... the anchor light lens was cloudy and I lost the
> steaming/deck
> light when a branch fell on it. I'm replacing the
> anchor light with an
> incandescent, but the steaming/deck light with LED. Figure
> that will help
> the battery charging life, and will be installing a solar
> panel for trickle
> charge.
>
> All of the brightwork needs sanding & varnishing and
> have to clean up some
> sap on the deck. Washed all the lines and the sails and
> she is just about
> back to sailing condition. She still looks great even at
> her advanced age
> of 24 years!
>
> I'll continue on with the cosmetic work (screens,
> varnish, polishingetc.)
> over the next year; but we're hoping to get a few sails
> in before winter
> "really" gets here, although the way things are
> going that may be
> optimisitc. Monday afternoon it was delightful sailing
> weather. Today it
> is windy and cold... unseasonably for this region.
>
> Ed, I met a fellow from Richmond a few years ago (Rob, was
> that you?), but I
> haven't run into any Rhodes owners in the Tidewater
> region. I'm living in
> Hampton now.
>
> Thanks all for your well wishes and the great information
> to help us get
> this project completed.
>
> Saroj
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at nyu.edu>
> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap
> sealant? reply to
> Saroj
>
>
> Rik
>
> I use 10x24 ss bolts on my cap. I prefer to tighten the
> nut under
> the cap using a closed end wrench with
> my electric driver and the correct wide phillips bit in
> place. Do a
> criss cross pattern like lacing up boots
> and torque the nut with a rachet wrench with the phillips
> bit and
> just hold the nut in place with the same closed end wrench
> (7/16")
> took me about 1hr to do 46 bolts.
>
> Ive overhauled my entire centerboard cap, trunk and board
> including
> the mechanical advantage
>
> Lou
> sv Miracles
>
>
> On Oct 28, 2008, at 11:43 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
>
> > Rik,
> > It takes really small hands and a second person. I
> recommend using an
> > electric driver or you will be spending the better
> part of a day
> > installing all of
> > them. I have never seen screws used on the trunk cap.
> >
> > Rummy
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/28/2008 11:21:39 A.M. Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> > sanderico1 at gmail.com writes:
> >
> > Ed,
> >
> > I have to ask, how would you use through bolts on the
> centerboard
> > cap of
> > an R22?? I can't imagine how you are going to hold
> the nuts to
> > tighten them.
> >
> > Rik
> >
> > Will Rogers often said, "There's nothing
> quite like money in the
> > bank." He
> > went on to say, "I'm not so concerned about
> the return on my money
> > as I am
> > about the return of my money."
> >
> >
> >
> > Tootle wrote:
> >> Saroj:
> >>
> >> As to sealants, do not use 5200 like some boat
> builders. It is
> >> called
> >> sealant but it is permanent and prevents future
> repair,
> >> painting, etc.
> >>
> >> I recommend a sealant that says for under water
> use. 3M 4000 or
> >> 4200 are
> >> numbers I can think of quickly. Go to the 3M
> website and see
> >> which one is
> >> for underwater use. (I know the cap is not
> underwater, except at
> >> times)
> >>
> >> Another popular product is Boat Life Sealant, not
> Boat Life Caulk.
> >>
> >> As to silicone products, make sure it says for
> underwater use.
> >> Silicone
> > II
> >> is said to be the better formulation of silcone
> sealants.
> >>
> >> I would not go to Lowes. Go to any dockside
> marine store or if
> >> you have to
> >> the high dollar 'West Marine'. It would
> be better to pay the few
> >> extra
> >> schekels at West to get a quality product.
> >>
> >> As to screws and bolts, Stan uses a million bolts
> at the shop.
> >> Maybe older
> >> boats had a mix, but I would opt to go to thru
> bolts, all one
> >> million of
> >> them. Also, after you tighten all the first
> time, go around a
> >> second time
> >> and maybe a third. A small 1/4" rachet
> works for this job. If
> >> you do not
> >> have one, head for Sears and get a Craftsman set.
> >>
> >> It is good to see your post. Are in in contact
> with any other
> >> 'Tidewater'
> >> Rhodies?
> >>
> >> Ed K
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Saroj Gilbert wrote:
> >>
> >>> any chance I can ask a question about the
> Rhodes22? LOL...
> >>>
> >>> my centerboard would not raise or lower so
> friend and I took the
> >>> cap
> >>> apart; found that the blocks had broken off
> the CB; scraped,
> >>> sanded, and
> >>> painted the inside of the cap, the well and
> the CB (all
> >>> encrusted with
> >>> barnacles). We have it put back together
> except for the cap
> >>> which has the
> >>> gasket which was already there... appears in
> pretty good shape. We
> >>> modified some blocks which was challenging
> since the attachment
> >>> area is so
> >>> small. Also did some fiberglass repair on
> the CB and the keel.
> >>>
> >>> Two questions:
> >>>
> >>> - most of the holes had screws but some had
> bolts... I assume
> >>> that an
> >>> earlier owner had stripped out the screw
> holes. Is it likely
> >>> that reusing
> >>> the screws will provide sufficient pressure
> to prevent leaks or
> >>> should we
> >>> go to the trouble of replacing all with
> bolts... I'd prefer not
> >>> because
> >>> there are so many, but I don't want leaks
> obviously.
> >>>
> >>> - what sealant should we use? I took off the
> old sealant which
> >>> was a blue
> >>> colored rubbery substance that came off pretty
> easily from both
> >>> sides.
> >>> Roger's instructions said to use silicone.
> Is there a
> >>> particular type or
> >>> any old stuff from Lowes? If we use silicon,
> do we need to let
> >>> it cure a
> >>> little before clamping down 100% to give it a
> chance to cure?
> >>> (seems to me
> >>> it requires air to start the curing process).
> Has anyone used
> >>> RTV...
> >>> overkill for this application?
> >>>
> >>> I have searched and searched for the tech
> info material that was
> >>> created
> >>> and organized years ago with no luck. Can
> someone give me a URL
> >>> for it or
> >>> does it no longer exist?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks, Saroj
> >>>
> __________________________________________________
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> >>> go to
> >>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>>
> __________________________________________________
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> > __________________________________________________
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> >
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