[Rhodes22-list] Topic change... to Elle

Saroj Gilbert saroj at pathfind.net
Tue Oct 28 23:21:53 EDT 2008


I sent you an email back channel... let me know if it doesn't get to you.

Saroj

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "elle" <watermusic38 at yahoo.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to 
Saroj


> Saroj,
>
> We're neighbors, of sorts.....I'm just a bit up the road in the upper 
> Northern Neck...I go to Newport News every two weeks on marina 
> business.......and will go thru Hampton in two weeks on my way to the 
> Outer Banks for a photo workshop.....
>
> elle
>
> We can't change the angle of the wind....but we can adjust our sails.
>
> 1992 Rhodes 22   Recyc '06  "WaterMusic"   (Lady in Red)
>
>
> --- On Tue, 10/28/08, Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap sealant? reply to 
>> Saroj
>> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 2:27 PM
>> Hey, Ed, Ben, Rob, Rik, Rummy, Lou,
>>
>> Thanks all for the info.  Based on what I've read,
>> I'm going to replace all
>> the screws with bolts.
>>
>> Lou, are you the one who did the write-up with Roger in
>> 2005-2006?  When you
>> say "torque" are you implying you actually used a
>> torque wrench or just as a
>> euphemism for "tightened"?
>>
>> My centerboard lift line has a different configuration from
>> that in the
>> article I referenced above.  It starts from a small U
>> bracket fore of the
>> foremost block on the cap.  Since the blocks on the CB were
>> broken I don't
>> know how it was threaded below, but it seems to have gone
>> from that loop
>> thru the highest block on the CB, back up to the the
>> foremost block on the
>> cap (an inch aft of the loop), back down to the lower block
>> on the CB (2-3
>> inches below the other one) then up thru the aft block on
>> the cap which acts
>> as a fair lead, then thru the hole and nipple for the lift
>> line.  It seems
>> that there should be another block lower down on the CB to
>> give an extra
>> mechanical advantage and more pull on the extreme, but I
>> never had any
>> trouble raising or lowering the CB before the break.
>>
>> I'm still wondering what sealant/caulk to use.  The guy
>> at West Marine
>> recommended 3M 4200 but I think it is essentially an
>> adhesive like 5200,
>> just not as permanent.  Lou, what did you use?  Seems like
>> an underwater
>> silicone (like Silicone II) would work well.  I've
>> never had any trouble
>> with leaking, but I might as well do it right while its
>> apart.  I would
>> consider changing the gasket but it appears to be in very
>> good condition.
>>
>> I've been renovating a 1937 house for the past 4 years,
>> so Pathfinder has
>> been on the hard in my back yard during that time.  It
>> wasn't worth paying
>> the slip fees when I didn't have time to use it.
>> We're replacing the mast
>> lights... the anchor light lens was cloudy and I lost the
>> steaming/deck
>> light when a branch fell on it.  I'm replacing the
>> anchor light with an
>> incandescent, but the steaming/deck light with LED.  Figure
>> that will help
>> the battery charging life, and will be installing a solar
>> panel for trickle
>> charge.
>>
>> All of the brightwork needs sanding & varnishing and
>> have to clean up some
>> sap on the deck.  Washed all the lines and the sails and
>> she is just about
>> back to sailing condition.  She still looks great even at
>> her advanced age
>> of 24 years!
>>
>> I'll continue on with the cosmetic work (screens,
>> varnish, polishingetc.)
>> over the next year; but we're hoping to get a few sails
>> in before winter
>> "really" gets here, although the way things are
>> going that may be
>> optimisitc.  Monday afternoon it was delightful sailing
>> weather.  Today it
>> is windy and cold... unseasonably for this region.
>>
>> Ed, I met a fellow from Richmond a few years ago (Rob, was
>> that you?), but I
>> haven't run into any Rhodes owners in the Tidewater
>> region.  I'm living in
>> Hampton now.
>>
>> Thanks all for your well wishes and the great information
>> to help us get
>> this project completed.
>>
>> Saroj
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at nyu.edu>
>> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:32 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap
>> sealant? reply to
>> Saroj
>>
>>
>> Rik
>>
>> I use 10x24 ss bolts on my cap.  I prefer to tighten the
>> nut under
>> the cap using a closed end wrench with
>> my  electric driver and the correct wide phillips bit in
>> place.  Do a
>> criss cross pattern like lacing up boots
>> and torque the nut with a rachet wrench with the phillips
>> bit and
>> just hold the nut in place with the same closed end wrench
>> (7/16")
>> took me about 1hr to do 46 bolts.
>>
>> Ive overhauled my entire centerboard cap, trunk and board
>> including
>> the mechanical advantage
>>
>> Lou
>> sv Miracles
>>
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2008, at 11:43 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> > Rik,
>> > It takes really small hands and a second person. I
>> recommend using an
>> > electric driver or you will be spending the better
>> part of a day
>> > installing all  of
>> > them. I have never seen screws used on the trunk cap.
>> >
>> > Rummy
>> >
>> >
>> > In a message dated 10/28/2008 11:21:39 A.M. Eastern
>> Daylight Time,
>> > sanderico1 at gmail.com writes:
>> >
>> > Ed,
>> >
>> > I have to ask, how would you use through bolts on the
>> centerboard
>> > cap of
>> > an R22?? I can't imagine how you are going to hold
>> the  nuts to
>> > tighten them.
>> >
>> > Rik
>> >
>> > Will Rogers often said, "There's  nothing
>> quite like money in the
>> > bank." He
>> > went on to say, "I'm not so  concerned about
>> the return on my money
>> > as I am
>> > about the return of my  money."
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Tootle wrote:
>> >> Saroj:
>> >>
>> >> As to  sealants, do not use 5200 like some boat
>> builders.  It is
>> >> called
>> >>  sealant but it is permanent and prevents future
>> repair,
>> >> painting,  etc.
>> >>
>> >> I recommend a sealant that says for under water
>> use.  3M 4000 or
>> >> 4200 are
>> >> numbers I can think of quickly.   Go to the 3M
>> website and see
>> >> which one is
>> >> for underwater use.  (I  know the cap is not
>> underwater, except at
>> >> times)
>> >>
>> >> Another  popular product is Boat Life Sealant, not
>> Boat Life Caulk.
>> >>
>> >> As  to silicone products, make sure it says for
>> underwater use.
>> >> Silicone
>> > II
>> >> is said to be the better formulation of silcone
>> sealants.
>> >>
>> >> I would not go to Lowes.  Go to any dockside
>> marine  store or if
>> >> you have to
>> >> the high dollar 'West Marine'.  It would
>> be better to pay the few
>> >> extra
>> >> schekels at West to get a quality  product.
>> >>
>> >> As to screws and bolts, Stan uses a million bolts
>> at  the shop.
>> >> Maybe older
>> >> boats had a mix, but I would opt to go to  thru
>> bolts, all one
>> >> million of
>> >> them.  Also, after you tighten all  the first
>> time, go around a
>> >> second time
>> >> and maybe a third.  A  small 1/4" rachet
>> works for this job.  If
>> >> you do not
>> >> have one,  head for Sears and get a Craftsman set.
>> >>
>> >> It is good to see your  post.  Are in in contact
>> with any other
>> >> 'Tidewater'
>> >>  Rhodies?
>> >>
>> >> Ed K
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Saroj  Gilbert wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> any chance I can ask a  question about the
>> Rhodes22? LOL...
>> >>>
>> >>> my centerboard  would not raise or lower so
>> friend and I took the
>> >>> cap
>> >>> apart; found  that the blocks had broken off
>> the CB; scraped,
>> >>> sanded, and
>> >>>  painted the inside of the cap, the well and
>> the CB (all
>> >>> encrusted  with
>> >>> barnacles).  We have it put back together
>> except for the  cap
>> >>> which has the
>> >>> gasket which was already there... appears in
>> pretty good shape.  We
>> >>> modified some blocks which was  challenging
>> since the attachment
>> >>> area is so
>> >>> small.  Also did  some fiberglass repair on
>> the CB and the keel.
>> >>>
>> >>> Two  questions:
>> >>>
>> >>> - most of the holes had screws but some had
>> bolts... I assume
>> >>> that an
>> >>> earlier owner had stripped out the screw
>> holes.  Is it likely
>> >>> that reusing
>> >>> the screws will provide  sufficient pressure
>> to prevent leaks or
>> >>> should we
>> >>> go to the  trouble of replacing all with
>> bolts... I'd prefer not
>> >>> because
>> >>>  there are so many, but I don't want leaks
>> obviously.
>> >>>
>> >>> -  what sealant should we use? I took off the
>> old sealant which
>> >>> was a  blue
>> >>> colored rubbery substance that came off pretty
>> easily from  both
>> >>> sides.
>> >>> Roger's instructions said to use silicone.
>>  Is  there a
>> >>> particular type or
>> >>> any old stuff from Lowes?  If we  use silicon,
>> do we need to let
>> >>> it cure a
>> >>> little before clamping  down 100% to give it a
>> chance to cure?
>> >>> (seems to me
>> >>> it requires  air to start the curing process).
>>  Has anyone used
>> >>> RTV...
>> >>>  overkill for this application?
>> >>>
>> >>> I have searched and  searched for the tech
>> info material that was
>> >>> created
>> >>> and organized  years ago with no luck.  Can
>> someone give me a URL
>> >>> for it or
>> >>>  does it no longer exist?
>> >>>
>> >>> Thanks, Saroj
>> >>>
>> __________________________________________________
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>> >>> go  to
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>> >>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
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