[Rhodes22-list] Topic change... to Elle

elle watermusic38 at yahoo.com
Tue Oct 28 23:48:08 EDT 2008


Saroj.

11:50pm...nothing yet.


elle

We can't change the angle of the wind....but we can adjust our sails.

1992 Rhodes 22   Recyc '06  "WaterMusic"   (Lady in Red)


--- On Tue, 10/28/08, Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net> wrote:

> From: Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Topic change... to Elle
> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 11:21 PM
> I sent you an email back channel... let me know if it
> doesn't get to you.
> 
> Saroj
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "elle" <watermusic38 at yahoo.com>
> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 11:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair - cap
> sealant? reply to 
> Saroj
> 
> 
> > Saroj,
> >
> > We're neighbors, of sorts.....I'm just a bit
> up the road in the upper 
> > Northern Neck...I go to Newport News every two weeks
> on marina 
> > business.......and will go thru Hampton in two weeks
> on my way to the 
> > Outer Banks for a photo workshop.....
> >
> > elle
> >
> > We can't change the angle of the wind....but we
> can adjust our sails.
> >
> > 1992 Rhodes 22   Recyc '06  "WaterMusic"
>   (Lady in Red)
> >
> >
> > --- On Tue, 10/28/08, Saroj Gilbert
> <saroj at pathfind.net> wrote:
> >
> >> From: Saroj Gilbert <saroj at pathfind.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair -
> cap sealant? reply to 
> >> Saroj
> >> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 2:27 PM
> >> Hey, Ed, Ben, Rob, Rik, Rummy, Lou,
> >>
> >> Thanks all for the info.  Based on what I've
> read,
> >> I'm going to replace all
> >> the screws with bolts.
> >>
> >> Lou, are you the one who did the write-up with
> Roger in
> >> 2005-2006?  When you
> >> say "torque" are you implying you
> actually used a
> >> torque wrench or just as a
> >> euphemism for "tightened"?
> >>
> >> My centerboard lift line has a different
> configuration from
> >> that in the
> >> article I referenced above.  It starts from a
> small U
> >> bracket fore of the
> >> foremost block on the cap.  Since the blocks on
> the CB were
> >> broken I don't
> >> know how it was threaded below, but it seems to
> have gone
> >> from that loop
> >> thru the highest block on the CB, back up to the
> the
> >> foremost block on the
> >> cap (an inch aft of the loop), back down to the
> lower block
> >> on the CB (2-3
> >> inches below the other one) then up thru the aft
> block on
> >> the cap which acts
> >> as a fair lead, then thru the hole and nipple for
> the lift
> >> line.  It seems
> >> that there should be another block lower down on
> the CB to
> >> give an extra
> >> mechanical advantage and more pull on the extreme,
> but I
> >> never had any
> >> trouble raising or lowering the CB before the
> break.
> >>
> >> I'm still wondering what sealant/caulk to use.
>  The guy
> >> at West Marine
> >> recommended 3M 4200 but I think it is essentially
> an
> >> adhesive like 5200,
> >> just not as permanent.  Lou, what did you use? 
> Seems like
> >> an underwater
> >> silicone (like Silicone II) would work well. 
> I've
> >> never had any trouble
> >> with leaking, but I might as well do it right
> while its
> >> apart.  I would
> >> consider changing the gasket but it appears to be
> in very
> >> good condition.
> >>
> >> I've been renovating a 1937 house for the past
> 4 years,
> >> so Pathfinder has
> >> been on the hard in my back yard during that time.
>  It
> >> wasn't worth paying
> >> the slip fees when I didn't have time to use
> it.
> >> We're replacing the mast
> >> lights... the anchor light lens was cloudy and I
> lost the
> >> steaming/deck
> >> light when a branch fell on it.  I'm replacing
> the
> >> anchor light with an
> >> incandescent, but the steaming/deck light with
> LED.  Figure
> >> that will help
> >> the battery charging life, and will be installing
> a solar
> >> panel for trickle
> >> charge.
> >>
> >> All of the brightwork needs sanding &
> varnishing and
> >> have to clean up some
> >> sap on the deck.  Washed all the lines and the
> sails and
> >> she is just about
> >> back to sailing condition.  She still looks great
> even at
> >> her advanced age
> >> of 24 years!
> >>
> >> I'll continue on with the cosmetic work
> (screens,
> >> varnish, polishingetc.)
> >> over the next year; but we're hoping to get a
> few sails
> >> in before winter
> >> "really" gets here, although the way
> things are
> >> going that may be
> >> optimisitc.  Monday afternoon it was delightful
> sailing
> >> weather.  Today it
> >> is windy and cold... unseasonably for this region.
> >>
> >> Ed, I met a fellow from Richmond a few years ago
> (Rob, was
> >> that you?), but I
> >> haven't run into any Rhodes owners in the
> Tidewater
> >> region.  I'm living in
> >> Hampton now.
> >>
> >> Thanks all for your well wishes and the great
> information
> >> to help us get
> >> this project completed.
> >>
> >> Saroj
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> From: "Lou Rosenberg"
> <lsr3 at nyu.edu>
> >> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
> >> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:32 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] centerboard repair -
> cap
> >> sealant? reply to
> >> Saroj
> >>
> >>
> >> Rik
> >>
> >> I use 10x24 ss bolts on my cap.  I prefer to
> tighten the
> >> nut under
> >> the cap using a closed end wrench with
> >> my  electric driver and the correct wide phillips
> bit in
> >> place.  Do a
> >> criss cross pattern like lacing up boots
> >> and torque the nut with a rachet wrench with the
> phillips
> >> bit and
> >> just hold the nut in place with the same closed
> end wrench
> >> (7/16")
> >> took me about 1hr to do 46 bolts.
> >>
> >> Ive overhauled my entire centerboard cap, trunk
> and board
> >> including
> >> the mechanical advantage
> >>
> >> Lou
> >> sv Miracles
> >>
> >>
> >> On Oct 28, 2008, at 11:43 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com
> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Rik,
> >> > It takes really small hands and a second
> person. I
> >> recommend using an
> >> > electric driver or you will be spending the
> better
> >> part of a day
> >> > installing all  of
> >> > them. I have never seen screws used on the
> trunk cap.
> >> >
> >> > Rummy
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > In a message dated 10/28/2008 11:21:39 A.M.
> Eastern
> >> Daylight Time,
> >> > sanderico1 at gmail.com writes:
> >> >
> >> > Ed,
> >> >
> >> > I have to ask, how would you use through
> bolts on the
> >> centerboard
> >> > cap of
> >> > an R22?? I can't imagine how you are
> going to hold
> >> the  nuts to
> >> > tighten them.
> >> >
> >> > Rik
> >> >
> >> > Will Rogers often said, "There's 
> nothing
> >> quite like money in the
> >> > bank." He
> >> > went on to say, "I'm not so 
> concerned about
> >> the return on my money
> >> > as I am
> >> > about the return of my  money."
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Tootle wrote:
> >> >> Saroj:
> >> >>
> >> >> As to  sealants, do not use 5200 like
> some boat
> >> builders.  It is
> >> >> called
> >> >>  sealant but it is permanent and prevents
> future
> >> repair,
> >> >> painting,  etc.
> >> >>
> >> >> I recommend a sealant that says for under
> water
> >> use.  3M 4000 or
> >> >> 4200 are
> >> >> numbers I can think of quickly.   Go to
> the 3M
> >> website and see
> >> >> which one is
> >> >> for underwater use.  (I  know the cap is
> not
> >> underwater, except at
> >> >> times)
> >> >>
> >> >> Another  popular product is Boat Life
> Sealant, not
> >> Boat Life Caulk.
> >> >>
> >> >> As  to silicone products, make sure it
> says for
> >> underwater use.
> >> >> Silicone
> >> > II
> >> >> is said to be the better formulation of
> silcone
> >> sealants.
> >> >>
> >> >> I would not go to Lowes.  Go to any
> dockside
> >> marine  store or if
> >> >> you have to
> >> >> the high dollar 'West Marine'. 
> It would
> >> be better to pay the few
> >> >> extra
> >> >> schekels at West to get a quality 
> product.
> >> >>
> >> >> As to screws and bolts, Stan uses a
> million bolts
> >> at  the shop.
> >> >> Maybe older
> >> >> boats had a mix, but I would opt to go to
>  thru
> >> bolts, all one
> >> >> million of
> >> >> them.  Also, after you tighten all  the
> first
> >> time, go around a
> >> >> second time
> >> >> and maybe a third.  A  small 1/4"
> rachet
> >> works for this job.  If
> >> >> you do not
> >> >> have one,  head for Sears and get a
> Craftsman set.
> >> >>
> >> >> It is good to see your  post.  Are in in
> contact
> >> with any other
> >> >> 'Tidewater'
> >> >>  Rhodies?
> >> >>
> >> >> Ed K
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Saroj  Gilbert wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>> any chance I can ask a  question
> about the
> >> Rhodes22? LOL...
> >> >>>
> >> >>> my centerboard  would not raise or
> lower so
> >> friend and I took the
> >> >>> cap
> >> >>> apart; found  that the blocks had
> broken off
> >> the CB; scraped,
> >> >>> sanded, and
> >> >>>  painted the inside of the cap, the
> well and
> >> the CB (all
> >> >>> encrusted  with
> >> >>> barnacles).  We have it put back
> together
> >> except for the  cap
> >> >>> which has the
> >> >>> gasket which was already there...
> appears in
> >> pretty good shape.  We
> >> >>> modified some blocks which was 
> challenging
> >> since the attachment
> >> >>> area is so
> >> >>> small.  Also did  some fiberglass
> repair on
> >> the CB and the keel.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Two  questions:
> >> >>>
> >> >>> - most of the holes had screws but
> some had
> >> bolts... I assume
> >> >>> that an
> >> >>> earlier owner had stripped out the
> screw
> >> holes.  Is it likely
> >> >>> that reusing
> >> >>> the screws will provide  sufficient
> pressure
> >> to prevent leaks or
> >> >>> should we
> >> >>> go to the  trouble of replacing all
> with
> >> bolts... I'd prefer not
> >> >>> because
> >> >>>  there are so many, but I don't
> want leaks
> >> obviously.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> -  what sealant should we use? I took
> off the
> >> old sealant which
> >> >>> was a  blue
> >> >>> colored rubbery substance that came
> off pretty
> >> easily from  both
> >> >>> sides.
> >> >>> Roger's instructions said to use
> silicone.
> >>  Is  there a
> >> >>> particular type or
> >> >>> any old stuff from Lowes?  If we  use
> silicon,
> >> do we need to let
> >> >>> it cure a
> >> >>> little before clamping  down 100% to
> give it a
> >> chance to cure?
> >> >>> (seems to me
> >> >>> it requires  air to start the curing
> process).
> >>  Has anyone used
> >> >>> RTV...
> >> >>>  overkill for this application?
> >> >>>
> >> >>> I have searched and  searched for the
> tech
> >> info material that was
> >> >>> created
> >> >>> and organized  years ago with no
> luck.  Can
> >> someone give me a URL
> >> >>> for it or
> >> >>>  does it no longer exist?
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Thanks, Saroj
> >> >>>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> >>> To  subscribe/unsubscribe or for help
> with
> >> using the mailing list
> >> >>> go  to
> >> >>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> >>>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> __________________________________________________
> >> > To  subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with
> using the
> >> mailing list
> >> > go to
> >> > http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> >
> __________________________________________________
> >> >
> >> >
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> __________________________________________________
> >> > To subscribe/unsubscribe or for help with
> using the
> >> mailing list go
> >> > to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> >
> __________________________________________________
> >>
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________
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> >> list go to
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> >>
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> >
> >
> >
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