[Rhodes22-list] Jbconnolly

[David Bradley]

Thanks Mary Lou.  Good ideas.

Dave

On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 9:49 AM, Mary Lou Troy<mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> Dave,
> We don't have motor controls on the tiller but I
> took a stock tiller cover, opened up the seams
> and added enough length to it so that it would
> cover the entire tiller including where the
> tiller attaches to the rudder. I think if I had
> the motor controls, I'd just buy some sunbrella
> and make a long tube wide enough to go over the
> controls and the cables if they are long enough
> to exit at the base of the tiller. Put a
> drawstring at the end and you are done. You'd
> have to get fancier if you have to leave an
> opening for the cables. I might consider grommets
> and lacing if that's the case. Should be a fairly
> simple project if you know someone with a sewing
> machine. I can sew two layers of sunbrella easily
> on my old Singer Featherweight. Sailrite has lots
> of supplies and info about working with Sunbrella. (http://www.sailrite.com/)
>
> Mary Lou
> 1991 R22 Fretless
> Rock Hall, MD
>
>
> At 12:19 PM 6/8/2009, you wrote:
>>I pulled my tiller out to refinish it this spring and found that there
>>was quite a bit of dry rot in the area where the through bolt attaches
>>the tiller to the rudder head.  I ordered a new tiller from Stan and
>>after drilling sealed the interior surfaces with epoxy.  Adding
>>several coats of varnish on top of the factory finish.
>>
>>My boat stays in the water all winter and it's a pretty rainy climate
>>here so I've probably got a worst case scenario for water wicking into
>>the tiller through the mast head.  I'm going to figure out a way to
>>cover the rudder head and motor controls this time around.  The
>>off-the-shelf tiller covers won't work - will require some creative
>>trimming of Sunbrella.  Anybody done that?
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 8:06 AM, Mary Lou Troy<mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> > At 08:59 AM 6/8/2009, Jim wrote:
>> >>  For the list: My tiller is a bit "chalky"
>> >> looking after five years.  The coating on it
>> >> seems very thick, more like an epoxy clear coat
>> >> than a varnish.  Has anyone refinished
>> theirs?  If so, with what product?
>> >
>> > We sanded ours down and varnished it probably 7
>> > or 8 years ago. 5 or 6 coats of varnish. sanded
>> > between coats. The full brightwork routine. Nice
>> > winter project. Used real varnish vs Cetol or the
>> > like. We keep it covered with a sunbrella cover
>> > when not in use. Looked fabulous when first done
>> > and for the first couple of years. Still looks
>> > very good though it has a few scratches and dings
>> > and probably ought to be redone.
>> >
>> >>The hinged cabin door is sun-bleached and
>> >>blotchy on one side, also.  It is made of two
>> >>pieces of ~3/8 plywood with a piano hinge and a
>> >>wooden cleat (carpentry cleat, not nautical
>> >>cleat) drilled for socket for the leg.  I would
>> >>like the plastic door, but $350 is not in this
>> >>year's budget.  I may just flip it over, but
>> >>would like to refinish it.  Anyone done this,
>> >>and with what? I have the black plastic tracks
>> >>for the cabin door as well as the white plastic
>> >>tracks for the sliding hatch, already.
>> >
>> > Our hinged door is Starboard. It's heavy but
>> > requires no maintenance and looks almost brand
>> > new in spite of being casually thrown under the
>> > seats whenever we use the boat. The tracks are
>> > wood. We have an old quart can of West Marine
>> > Teak Treatment (similar to Cetol but  think it
>> > was made for them by Armada) that we use on the
>> > tracks and on the wood trim in the cockpit. The
>> > can was last used two or three years ago (it was
>> > used before that and is probably 7 or 8 years
>> > old) and it's time to do a light sanding and add
>> > another coat. It takes a while to dry (probably
>> > because of its age) but it seemed to work ok.
>> > We'll see if I can get another use out of it.  We
>> > also made a mahogany kickplate for the forward
>> > end of the cockpit (holds the centerboard line).
>> > It gets the West Teak Treatment as well. We also
>> > varnished  (real varnish) the plywood table (that
>> > doubles as the cabin bunk filler). It has held up
>> > very well and looks great. If anyone tries this
>> > be aware that you have to clean it well and sand
>> > VERY lightly or you go right through the fake teak pattern.
>> >
>> > Mary Lou
>> > 1991 R22  Fretless
>> > Rock Hall, MD
>> >
>> >
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>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>David Bradley
>>+1.206.234.3977
>>dwbrad at gmail.com
>>
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-- 
David Bradley
+1.206.234.3977
dwbrad at gmail.com