[Rhodes22-list] Jbconnolly

[R Orkin]

A few coats of Epifanes 3 or 4 :-) with light sanding between.. Just let it
dry the full 24 hours between coats -- Works for me



David Bradley wrote:
> 
> Thanks Mary Lou.  Good ideas.
> 
> Dave
> 
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 9:49 AM, Mary Lou Troy<mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> Dave,
>> We don't have motor controls on the tiller but I
>> took a stock tiller cover, opened up the seams
>> and added enough length to it so that it would
>> cover the entire tiller including where the
>> tiller attaches to the rudder. I think if I had
>> the motor controls, I'd just buy some sunbrella
>> and make a long tube wide enough to go over the
>> controls and the cables if they are long enough
>> to exit at the base of the tiller. Put a
>> drawstring at the end and you are done. You'd
>> have to get fancier if you have to leave an
>> opening for the cables. I might consider grommets
>> and lacing if that's the case. Should be a fairly
>> simple project if you know someone with a sewing
>> machine. I can sew two layers of sunbrella easily
>> on my old Singer Featherweight. Sailrite has lots
>> of supplies and info about working with Sunbrella.
>> (http://www.sailrite.com/)
>>
>> Mary Lou
>> 1991 R22 Fretless
>> Rock Hall, MD
>>
>>
>> At 12:19 PM 6/8/2009, you wrote:
>>>I pulled my tiller out to refinish it this spring and found that there
>>>was quite a bit of dry rot in the area where the through bolt attaches
>>>the tiller to the rudder head.  I ordered a new tiller from Stan and
>>>after drilling sealed the interior surfaces with epoxy.  Adding
>>>several coats of varnish on top of the factory finish.
>>>
>>>My boat stays in the water all winter and it's a pretty rainy climate
>>>here so I've probably got a worst case scenario for water wicking into
>>>the tiller through the mast head.  I'm going to figure out a way to
>>>cover the rudder head and motor controls this time around.  The
>>>off-the-shelf tiller covers won't work - will require some creative
>>>trimming of Sunbrella.  Anybody done that?
>>>
>>>Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 8:06 AM, Mary Lou Troy<mtroy at atlanticbb.net>
wrote:
>>> > At 08:59 AM 6/8/2009, Jim wrote:
>>> >>  For the list: My tiller is a bit "chalky"
>>> >> looking after five years.  The coating on it
>>> >> seems very thick, more like an epoxy clear coat
>>> >> than a varnish.  Has anyone refinished
>>> theirs?  If so, with what product?
>>> >
>>> > We sanded ours down and varnished it probably 7
>>> > or 8 years ago. 5 or 6 coats of varnish. sanded
>>> > between coats. The full brightwork routine. Nice
>>> > winter project. Used real varnish vs Cetol or the
>>> > like. We keep it covered with a sunbrella cover
>>> > when not in use. Looked fabulous when first done
>>> > and for the first couple of years. Still looks
>>> > very good though it has a few scratches and dings
>>> > and probably ought to be redone.
>>> >
>>> >>The hinged cabin door is sun-bleached and
>>> >>blotchy on one side, also.  It is made of two
>>> >>pieces of ~3/8 plywood with a piano hinge and a
>>> >>wooden cleat (carpentry cleat, not nautical
>>> >>cleat) drilled for socket for the leg.  I would
>>> >>like the plastic door, but $350 is not in this
>>> >>year's budget.  I may just flip it over, but
>>> >>would like to refinish it.  Anyone done this,
>>> >>and with what? I have the black plastic tracks
>>> >>for the cabin door as well as the white plastic
>>> >>tracks for the sliding hatch, already.
>>> >
>>> > Our hinged door is Starboard. It's heavy but
>>> > requires no maintenance and looks almost brand
>>> > new in spite of being casually thrown under the
>>> > seats whenever we use the boat. The tracks are
>>> > wood. We have an old quart can of West Marine
>>> > Teak Treatment (similar to Cetol but  think it
>>> > was made for them by Armada) that we use on the
>>> > tracks and on the wood trim in the cockpit. The
>>> > can was last used two or three years ago (it was
>>> > used before that and is probably 7 or 8 years
>>> > old) and it's time to do a light sanding and add
>>> > another coat. It takes a while to dry (probably
>>> > because of its age) but it seemed to work ok.
>>> > We'll see if I can get another use out of it.  We
>>> > also made a mahogany kickplate for the forward
>>> > end of the cockpit (holds the centerboard line).
>>> > It gets the West Teak Treatment as well. We also
>>> > varnished  (real varnish) the plywood table (that
>>> > doubles as the cabin bunk filler). It has held up
>>> > very well and looks great. If anyone tries this
>>> > be aware that you have to clean it well and sand
>>> > VERY lightly or you go right through the fake teak pattern.
>>> >
>>> > Mary Lou
>>> > 1991 R22  Fretless
>>> > Rock Hall, MD
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > __________________________________________________
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>>> > __________________________________________________
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>David Bradley
>>>+1.206.234.3977
>>>dwbrad at gmail.com
>>>
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>>
>>
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> David Bradley
> +1.206.234.3977
> dwbrad at gmail.com
> 
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> 


-----
Rory Orkin
Tilghman, Md
2000 Recycled  Rhodes 22
Duet ll
-- 
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