[Rhodes22-list] OB Motors ( for Rummy)

Joe Camp jjcampjr at yahoo.com
Tue Jun 22 08:08:38 EDT 2010


Rummy and Chris:
 
     There seems to be a Freudian undertone in all of this "nut" talk. Can we switch to something more directly phallic, like "raising the mast?"  Just a thought, but let's not hide our true natures...men.
 
Joe 

--- On Tue, 6/22/10, R22RumRunner at aol.com <R22RumRunner at aol.com> wrote:


From: R22RumRunner at aol.com <R22RumRunner at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] OB Motors ( for Rummy)
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2010, 7:57 AM


Wire nuts are not for marine use. I prefer soldered connections with shrink 
tubing and then a layer of liquid electrical tape. I'm glad we dug a 
little  deeper into this subject.

Rummy


In a message dated 6/21/2010 1:35:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ccowie at cowieassociates.com writes:

Thanks  for the advice.  The nuts I was referring to are not the wing nuts 
on the  battery rather control wires from the outboard lift switch have wire 
nuts that  seem to come a bit loose every now and then.  I plan to replace 
them with  a better quality crimp but joint.

Christopher P. Cowie   


4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW 
Suite 300 
Washington,  DC  20007 
202.342.2711 
202.342.2691 fax 
202.270.1470 mobile  

[ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
cowieassociates.com


-----Original  Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org  
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael D.  Weisner
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 8:42 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email  List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] OB Motors ( for Rummy)

Strictly  speaking, wire nuts are not a good choice in a marine environment 
since  they do not form a gas-tight joint.  You should use solder or 
crimped  
butt joints for more trouble free permanent wiring solutions.  If you  wish 
to use wire nuts, simply make them gas-tight by adding a dielectric  grease 
to block corrosion during assembly of the joint.  Loctite  makes a good 
quality grease which is available just about everywhere (MSC  Direct is a 
great source for this, stainless fasteners, tubing,  etc,):
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=3108381&PMT4NO=87953202

If  you are in a salt environment, stay away from the conductive 
"passivated"  
greases (zinc or copper added) as they have been thought to cause some  
galvanic activity that can degrade the wire joint.  They're also a  bit 
more 
costly.

If you want to try an old solution for the  corrosion that usually works, 
just paint some Vasoline around the joint to  block corrosive vapors.  It 
may 
not be hi-tech but it has worked well  for years.

Make sure that the wires are real clean before joining, use  a NEW wire nut 
and paint some grease on for protection and your joints  should last 
several 
seasons without trouble.

Mike
s/v Shanghai'd  Summer ('81)
Nissequogue River, NY


From:  <R22RumRunner at aol.com> Monday, June 21, 2010 7:07 AM
> The nuts  are fine. You probably need to clean the copper connectors on 
the
>  battery and the cable and tighten a little tighter than hand tight. Use  
a
> small  pair of pliers.
>
>  Rummy
>
>
> In a message dated 6/20/2010 8:34:51 P.M.  Eastern Daylight Time,
> ccowie at cowieassociates.com  writes:
>
> My 2009  has a long shaft and electric  lift.  Stays in the water during
> high seas on the Chesapeake bay  and doesn't drag when lifted.   Motor
> casing touches the  rail in the raised and tilted  position.  I have a
> yamaha 8  hp run the carberator dry and  flush the cooling system with
>  fresh water after each use.  Runs  great so far.  The only  trouble so
> far has been the electric  switch looses power every  now and then in
> the down position.   Solution is to grab the  wire nuts in the laz and
> give them a  sqeeze.  Kind of like  kicking a computer when it doesn't
> work.  I'm pretty sure wire  nut connections on a boat are not a  good
> idea and I should  replace them.
>
> Chris Cowie
> Cowie  Associates  PC
>
>
> On Jun 20, 2010, at 5:17 PM,  "R22RumRunner at aol.com<R22RumRunner at aol.com
>>  wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>> Again, it  depends on the  lift. If you are getting the standard
>> (non-motorized)  lift,  you will want the long shaft and deal with an
>>   occasional  drag.
>> (Maybe)You can tilt the motor once all the  way  up.  It's not a big
>> deal. But
>> you want  to  keep the prop in the water while the engine is   running.
>>
>>   Rummy
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 6/20/2010 4:00:55  P.M.  Eastern Daylight Time,
>> jjcampjr at yahoo.com  writes:
>>
>>  Rummy:
>> I'll have the 7:1  lift. I do not get the boat until July   28; I
>>  believe
>> it's manual, but I don't know for  sure.   Really, if the 20"  is
>> going to
>>  cavitate, I  have no control over that. It does what it does,
>> right?  What  length
>> shaft do most Rhodes owners  use?   Thaks.
>> Joe
>>
>>
>> --- On Sun,  6/20/10,  R22RumRunner at aol.com   <R22RumRunner at aol.com>
>>  wrote:
>>
>>  From: R22RumRunner at aol.com    <R22RumRunner at aol.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] OB   Motors
>> To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Date:  Sunday, June  20, 2010, 3:31  PM
>>
>>  Also,
>> Cavitation is not good  for an outboard motor. It is  hard on  the
>>  cooling
>> impeller (doesn't like  running dry) and has been known   to twist or
>>  snap
>> crank
>>  shafts.
>>
>>  Rummy
>>
>>
>> In a message  dated   6/20/2010 1:22:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>  jjcampjr at yahoo.com  writes:
>>
>> John:
>> The  cavitating is something I  can  live with. OTOH (to  borrow  a
>> wonderful
>> acronym  from you) the  added  drag when heeling to port would  be a
>> PITA (to
>>  borrow a  wonderful acronym from Stan).  I  hadn't  considered  that,
>> and
>> your
>>  advice  has made my decision far easier.
>>  Joe
>>
>> ---  On  Sun,  6/20/10, John Lock  <jlock at relevantarts.com>  wrote:
>>
>>  From:   John Lock  <jlock at relevantarts.com>
>>  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list]   OB  Motors
>> To: "The  Rhodes 22 Email List"     <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Date: Sunday, June 20,  2010,  12:00   PM
>>
>> Longer shaft will  cavitate less in rough  seas under  power.    OTOH,
>> longer shaft may drag the  prop in the  water when  heeled over  to port
>> under    sail.
>>
>> Cheers!
>> John   Lock
>>  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> s/v Pandion -  '79  Rhodes 22
>> Lake  Sinclair,  GA
>>  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>
>> On   Jun 20,  2010, at 10:45, Joe Camp  wrote:
>>> Hello; here's a   probably  easy question:  In the realm of  long   
shaft
>>> OB  motors, would a 25" shaft have any  advantage  over  a 20"  shaft?
>>>  Thanks.
>>> Joe Camp  (poem    included)
>>>
>>>
>>>      Old  Scar
>>>
>>>     JJ   Camp
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  You whisper to me  with   every
>>>
>>>  fleeting  glimpse:
>>>
>>> Accusation!   Guilt!   Reasons!
>>>
>>> you should not  be
>>>
>>>  like a  snake,   running
>>>
>>> up my arm on one  side,   down
>>>
>>> the other,    looking
>>>
>>> for a hole to    hide
>>>
>>> you from mongoose    eyes
>>>
>>> that know  your   genesis
>>>
>>> in my reckless     past.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  Twenty-plus years  have   faded
>>>
>>>  you, almost to the color of  flesh
>>>
>>>  you  used to be  before
>>>
>>> they laid me  down,
>>>
>>>  opened me  up to  bleed
>>>
>>> out the bad    medicine
>>>
>>> I    remember!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  So  I never use  that  hand
>>>
>>> to  lift my whiskey   anymore.
>>>
>>>  Some  lessons,
>>>
>>> I  refuse to  learn  through pain
>>>    2000
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>    __________________________________________________
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