[Rhodes22-list] Floor Boards

cowie ccowie at cowieassociates.com
Sun Jan 8 14:18:33 EST 2012 

Bob:

Since I plan to coat the plywood with poly it makes sense to use a good
looking plywood veneer.  The labor will be the same for cheap or expensive
plywood and at one sheet even a 100% increase in cost isn't that much more
given the number of years I expect to get from it.  There are a number of
companies on line that make a variety of veneer products including teak. 
http://marine-plywood.us/teak.htm  The shipping expense is considerable so I
will look to see what is available at a local lumber yard.  I suppose I
could leave the existing 1/2" hardieboard in place and cover it with a new
1/2" material but am leaning to replacing the existing with new 1/2" marine
plywood to avoid adding too much weight.  I surveyed the existing board
layout and found nine existing boards.  I suppose the quantity of boards
facilitates access to the centerboard trunk without removing all the floor
boards.  If I am replacing with wood to be covered with carpet then nine
boards may make sense but If I want a better looking wood floor then fewer
boards would be a better choice.  Enclosed are two sketches, existing
pattern and a compromise proposed pattern that uses fewer pieces.
http://old.nabble.com/file/p33103529/IMG_1208.jpg IMG_1208.jpg 

Bob Keller wrote:
>  http://old.nabble.com/file/p33103529/IMG_1209.jpg IMG_1209.jpg 
> 
> Chris,
> Any thoughts on doing this project using teak as the flooring instead of
> plywood & carpet?  I was thinking about something like that because it
> would really look a lot better.  Would that make any sense?
> BK
>  
> 
>> Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 11:52:23 -0800
>> From: ccowie at cowieassociates.com
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Floor Boards
>> 
>> 
>> Lee: Marble might be a bit on the heavy side. I am on my boat, nice 60ish
>> degree weather, too bad it's not in the water. I took apart the floor
>> boards and sketched up the existing pattern to cut new 3/4" boards from
>> marrine plywood that I will coat with several thin layers of poly. I have
>> a
>> couple of questions. Why did Stan use 7 boards (see enclosed sketch A, B,
>> C, D, E, F, G). I think it's probably because the hardboard comes in
>> 3'x5'
>> sheets. The marine plywood will be a 4'x8' sheet and I think it would be
>> better to install five boards (see enclosed sketch A, B, C, D, E) but I
>> want
>> to make sure I am not missing anything. Another minor issue is that the
>> 1/2" hardboards are actually 3/8" and will be replaced with 3/4" wood
>> pushing the wood centerboard enclosure up slightly. I can either live
>> with
>> a slight slope or cut down the wood centerboard enclosure 1/4". Any
>> thoughts or input on the board pattern would be appreciated.
>> 
>> http://old.nabble.com/file/p33099750/Image%2B4.jpg Image+4.jpg 
>> 
>> http://old.nabble.com/file/p33099750/Image%2B1.jpg Image+1.jpg 
>> http://old.nabble.com/file/p33099750/Image.jpg Image.jpg 
>> http://old.nabble.com/file/p33099750/Image%2B3.jpg Image+3.jpg 
>> http://old.nabble.com/file/p33099750/Image%2B2.jpg Image+2.jpg 
>> 
>> 
>> Leland wrote:
>> > 
>> > Chris,
>> > 
>> > Even though you've gotten about 20 years worth of sailing in those 3
>> > seasons, with all the Rhodes you've sold for Stan at the boat shows
>> you'd
>> > think he'd give you a free marble floor if you'd ask for it.
>> > 
>> > Comments like this is what keeps Stan so young.
>> > 
>> > Lee
>> > 1986 Rhodes22 AT EASE
>> > Kent Island, MD
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > cowie wrote:
>> >> 
>> >> I agree that hardiebacker is not intended for horizontal floor type
>> >> applications. It sounds like I may want to consider replaceing them
>> with
>> >> marine plywood. My boat is only 3 seasons old, 2009 model so it seems
>> >> like the hardiboard may not have been the right material to use. I
>> will
>> >> let Stan know for future reference. I wonder if I can easily get all
>> of
>> >> the floor boards out and replaced without having to take apart other
>> >> parts of the interior?
>> >> 
>> >> 
>> >> rgesner wrote:
>> >>> 
>> >>> Hardiebacker, even the 1/2", is not intended to be used structually
>> >>> unsupported like that. When used for floors, it must be fully
>> supported.
>> >>> The only approved unsupported use in in walls, such as for a shower
>> tile
>> >>> backer board.
>> >>> - Rusty
>> >>> On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 12:35 PM, Geoff Farrell
>> >>> <geoffreylfarrell at gmail.com>wrote:
>> >>> 
>> >>>> The same thing happened to two of my boards, including the one over
>> the
>> >>>> center board trunk. Stan replaced them with plywood that was heavily
>> >>>> coated
>> >>>> with what I think is polyurethan. These boards feel much stronger
>> and
>> >>>> have
>> >>>> held up well. Geoff
>> >>>>
>> >>>> On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 2:13 PM, cowie <ccowie at cowieassociates.com>
>> >>>> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> >
>> >>>> > The floor boards in my boat are a bit spongy and the small center
>> >>>> panel
>> >>>> > that
>> >>>> > is located directly over the center board trunk has cracked. The
>> >>>> original
>> >>>> > material is 1/2" thick HardieBacker® 500 Board that is available
>> in
>> >>>> 3'x5'
>> >>>> > sheets.
>> >>>> >
>> >>>>
>> http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_backerboard_halfInch.shtml
>> >>>> <snip>
>> >>>>
>> >>> __________________________________________________
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>> >>> 
>> >> 
>> >> 
>> > 
>> > 
>> 
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