[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Hi Rummy,
   Thank for your thorough and clear explanations.  Over night I have reconsidered yours and Graham's comments and realize that the time and labor may be much more than I am anticipating.  Yep, cleaning the joint of the old gel coat may prove to be much more difficult than my own vision.  I have some time to re-think, reread the replies from my post and to reevaluate my best approach to sealing the leak.  One thing for sure, using a seal above and below is not one I will consider.  I do have time to do the job right.  

Thanks,
Chuy

---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: 
> Chuy,
>  
> I'm jumping back into this discussion one last time. I'm not a marine  
> engineer, but have built/rebuilt many boats over the past fifty years. Unless  
> you are building a hull out of steel or concrete, they are going to flex. I  
> would guess that even steel or concrete can flex under certain 
> circumstances.  The hull to deck joint of the R22 flexes because of the many  varied 
> forces  applied to it by the mast, rigging and wave action. Epoxy or fiber 
> glassing the  joint will remove the ability of the joint to flex. In fact, I 
> would be willing  to bet that over a very short period of time you will find 
> that it will crack  and pulverize due to the previously mentioned forces 
> working against it. It  would be a monumental chore to separate the joint enough 
> to thoroughly clean it  AND remove the gel coat for best adhesion. As I have 
> previously stated, it does  not bond well with gel coat. The process to 
> fiberglass the joint would be  incredibly labor intensive and in my opinion a 
> waste of time and resources. Why  would you want to do this when a very simple 
> and time tested solution has  already been put forth on the list. The 
> problems older hulls are experiencing  with the joint are due to improper use of 
> materials during original  construction. In short, adhesives/caulking have 
> come a long way in forty some  years. The one part polyethylene products have 
> a life expectancy of fifteen  years with direct exposure to UV rays from 
> the sun. I wonder how long they will  last in a covered joint application.
> Good luck with whatever you do, but remember, removing and repairing a  
> failed fiber glassed joint might be more than anyone would want to undertake,  
> even Mr. Casey.
>  
> Rummy
>  
>  
> In a message dated 2/6/2015 1:14:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
> 
> Hi ALL  ,
> I received my special anniversary issue of Sail Magazine  early in the week 
> but did not have time to read it., Volume 46 Number 2  February 2015.  
> Tonight I open it to the table of contents and guess what  one of the articles 
> was about?   Page 60, "Sealed up Tight When is  comes to securing the hull to 
> deck, which method is best?" by Don  Casey.
> 
> The author states "Boat builders are increasingly relying on  high-strength 
> methacrylate adhesives to fuse the hull to the deck into a  single, leak 
> proof component, in some cases omitting mechanical fasteners all  together".  
> Further he states that this process is expansive so some  builders use 
> flexible adhesives to bond the deck and hull, like 5200.  He  goes on and states 
> that repairs on the joint are not treated as two halves,  since there is no 
> reason to.  In most cases the deck to hull repair is  done without a joint 
> in the damaged area. 
> 
> The article is very well  written and easy to follow.  He explains the 
> different hull to deck  joints used.  Their strengths and weaknesses and the 
> reason to for their  use.  
> 
> After reading the article, I think that I most of my ideas  with a few 
> minor adjustments. 
> 
> Thanks for all your  input.
> 
> Chuy
> AfterMath   1987
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