[Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard

Sun Feb 21 14:14:52 EST 2016

Thanks for the epoxy advice.  I haven't done any fiberglass work
either...yet.  Are there less expensive alternatives to West Marine that
work well enough?  I see home depot has some 3m resin and some filler.

Alex,
I believe you are right about the trailer.  If the boat is further back the
centerboard will stay on a rubber roller and not swing down to hit the
axle.  However, I do believe I need to get it forward to get the tongue
weight right.  I have some number on that from weighing boat and trailer.
I will publish those in a separate post after I locate them.

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 10:21 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Or a turkey baster modified with a plunger.
>
> Larry
> Sarasota
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 8:29 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
>
> Patrick:
>
> I don't think a syringe that a veterinarian would use would be sufficient
> unless he treats elephants. I also expect that a sterile syringe would be a
> bit pricy. I got my syringes at an automotive store. It is used for
> measuring and dispensing oil. They work great as they are large enough to
> pack a reasonable amount of thickened epoxy into the top where the plunger
> goes. The thickened epoxy is too viscous to draw up into the cartridge with
> the plunger. The tip can be cut to fit the hole snugly.
>
> If these aren't available I have also found "flavour injectors" in the
> kitchen section of my  local dollar store but in that case they come with a
> needle point which is too fine for thickened epoxy mix but work ok for
> unthickened epoxy. However, you can take the needle off and just use the
> cartridge. I have attached pictures of what I use.
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: February 19, 2016 5:00 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
>
> Patrick
> Another consideration.   Do you have one of Stan's custom made drive on
> trailers?   When Tivo (Stan's man) delivered my boat he cautioned me not to
> pull it too far forward on the trailer to avoid damaging the centerboard.
> The bow stop is adjustable, and got moved around while the trailer was in
> storage.  Being cautious I didn't load far enough forward when I pulled out
> for winter layup.     Woops.   Insufficient tongue weight.    When Tivo
> came
> back last fall to install a forgotten Bimini, he told me the back of the
> deck house and grab rail should be about even with a single axle.    The
> first photo was when the pros loaded it.   The second with the building in
> back was my bad reloading when the marina closed for the season.  Stan, can
> you back me up on this??
> I'll defer to Graham on the repair, but have filled hull / cockpit deck
> voids in the same manner on my old boat.   Your local veterinary clinic can
> help you out with the big syringes.
> Alex Cole DVMUrbana OHSV Lark
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:32:14 -0700
> > From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> > To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Message-ID:
> >       <CAJGJx+Cr_0ERnqogO=
> aqOyTi3uk0YBNLWyNkqMjQyqMpVtsdDw at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Attached (hopefully) are a couple of pictures of the forward edge of
> > my centerboard.  This damage has come from banging into the trailer
> > axle I guess.  I would like to try to repair with Marine Tex, which I
> > have never used.  Any advice?  Maybe after cleaning up the area I
> > should drill a few holes and insert toothpicks or SS screws to give
> > the Tex something to hold on to?
> >
> > --
> > Patrick Riley
> > Lakewood, CO
> > S/V Cleone
> > -------------- next part --------------
>
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:40:00 -0500
> > From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> > To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Message-ID: <00ba01d16a8c$8a16f0e0$9e44d2a0$@ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Patrick:
> >
> > >From the picture I suspect that the damage was caused by more than
> > >just
> > hitting the trailer. I suspect that the board was structurally weak
> > due to large voids inside which may have filled with water. If you
> > have a cold climate where you are the water would do a lot of damage
> > as it
> freezes.
> > Tapping the board with something hard should tell you if there are
> > other voids and if so, I would definitely fix those first.
> >
> > I had this problem with my rudder and centreboard. The fix that I used
> > for the voids was fairly simple. I drilled holes wherever I suspected
> > there might be a void. It is best to have more than one hole in each
> > void so that when you eject epoxy into one hole the air can escape
> > from the other. If you see any sign of moisture I would wait some time
> > to allow the moisture to evaporate from inside the board before
> > filling it
> with epoxy.
> >
> > I used a big syringe with a plastic 1/4" tip to pump unthickened epoxy
> > into each hole until it came out the neighbouring holes. It is best to
> > drill holes that fit the tip of the syringe tightly so you can build a
> > bit of pressure to push the epoxy in. You will need to top it up
> > several times as the epoxy finds its way down into the board. Once it
> > won't take any more, let the epoxy set until it is no longer fluid and
> > then flip the board over and do the same on the other side. When I did
> > mine I was really surprised how much epoxy I was able to pump into the
> > core. I am sure I injected more than a quart. I did the same with my
> > centreboard housing and it took 3 GALLONS to fill the voids.
> >
> > As for the damaged cavity, I would clean out the cavity, make sure it
> > is dry, coat the cavity with epoxy and then and fill it in with layers
> > of epoxy thickened with high-strength adhesive filler. Epoxy can
> > generate a lot of heat as it cures so build the cavity in layers
> > (about 1") but addg each layer as soon as it starts to cool. At this
> > point the previous layer will stop being tacky but still soft enough
> > to
> scratch it with your fingernail.
> > If you wait until it cures completely, you should grind a coarse
> > surface on the old to provide for a mechanical bond.
> >
> > Using pins is unnecessary. Toothpicks would be useless. Properly
> > thickened epoxy will keep its form without support. Make the batch to
> > the consistency of peanut butter.
> >
> > Use fairing filler for the final few layers as it is MUCH easier to sand.
> > Try to make the two sides of the board as similar as you can.
> >
> > I would also be tempted to cover it all with fibreglass as there may
> > be fine crals where water could migrate. Finally, I would coat the
> > whole rudder with at least four  coats of regular epoxy. You can apply
> > the coats as soon as the epoxy will hold properly to the previous coat
> > -
> about 20 minutes.
> >
> > This is a bit of a nuisance but not difficult to do.
> >
> > Grahame
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile. R22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario Canada
> >
> >
> >
>
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-- 
Patrick Riley
Lakewood, CO
S/V Cleone