[Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Mon Feb 22 08:47:22 EST 2016 

Alex:

Don't confuse epoxy resin with polyester resin. The latter is much cheaper
and has very different attributes. The application methods also differ.
Epoxy is much stronger, durable and water resistant and is far superior for
repairs such as you plan on your centreboard.
 
Your boat, like all boats, are made with polyester resin - because of its
cost and fast curing. Epoxy adheres to polyester but polyester does not
adhere well to epoxy so you would not use epoxy if for any reason you wanted
to cover it with polyester as might occur if you are also wanting to do some
gel coat repairs. Gel coat is polyester

For a repair such as the one you are considering I would not try to save by
using polyester.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: February 21, 2016 2:15 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard

Thanks for the epoxy advice.  I haven't done any fiberglass work
either...yet.  Are there less expensive alternatives to West Marine that
work well enough?  I see home depot has some 3m resin and some filler.

Alex,
I believe you are right about the trailer.  If the boat is further back the
centerboard will stay on a rubber roller and not swing down to hit the axle.
However, I do believe I need to get it forward to get the tongue weight
right.  I have some number on that from weighing boat and trailer.
I will publish those in a separate post after I locate them.


On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 10:21 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Or a turkey baster modified with a plunger.
>
> Larry
> Sarasota
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 8:29 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
>
> Patrick:
>
> I don't think a syringe that a veterinarian would use would be 
> sufficient unless he treats elephants. I also expect that a sterile 
> syringe would be a bit pricy. I got my syringes at an automotive 
> store. It is used for measuring and dispensing oil. They work great as 
> they are large enough to pack a reasonable amount of thickened epoxy 
> into the top where the plunger goes. The thickened epoxy is too 
> viscous to draw up into the cartridge with the plunger. The tip can be cut
to fit the hole snugly.
>
> If these aren't available I have also found "flavour injectors" in the 
> kitchen section of my  local dollar store but in that case they come 
> with a needle point which is too fine for thickened epoxy mix but work 
> ok for unthickened epoxy. However, you can take the needle off and 
> just use the cartridge. I have attached pictures of what I use.
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: February 19, 2016 5:00 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard
>
> Patrick
> Another consideration.   Do you have one of Stan's custom made drive on
> trailers?   When Tivo (Stan's man) delivered my boat he cautioned me not
to
> pull it too far forward on the trailer to avoid damaging the centerboard.
> The bow stop is adjustable, and got moved around while the trailer was 
> in storage.  Being cautious I didn't load far enough forward when I pulled
out
> for winter layup.     Woops.   Insufficient tongue weight.    When Tivo
> came
> back last fall to install a forgotten Bimini, he told me the back of the
> deck house and grab rail should be about even with a single axle.    The
> first photo was when the pros loaded it.   The second with the building in
> back was my bad reloading when the marina closed for the season.  
> Stan, can you back me up on this??
> I'll defer to Graham on the repair, but have filled hull / cockpit deck
> voids in the same manner on my old boat.   Your local veterinary clinic
can
> help you out with the big syringes.
> Alex Cole DVMUrbana OHSV Lark
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:32:14 -0700
> > From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> > To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Message-ID:
> >       <CAJGJx+Cr_0ERnqogO=
> aqOyTi3uk0YBNLWyNkqMjQyqMpVtsdDw at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Attached (hopefully) are a couple of pictures of the forward edge of 
> > my centerboard.  This damage has come from banging into the trailer 
> > axle I guess.  I would like to try to repair with Marine Tex, which 
> > I have never used.  Any advice?  Maybe after cleaning up the area I 
> > should drill a few holes and insert toothpicks or SS screws to give 
> > the Tex something to hold on to?
> >
> > --
> > Patrick Riley
> > Lakewood, CO
> > S/V Cleone
> > -------------- next part --------------
>
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:40:00 -0500
> > From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> > To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Message-ID: <00ba01d16a8c$8a16f0e0$9e44d2a0$@ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Patrick:
> >
> > >From the picture I suspect that the damage was caused by more than 
> > >just
> > hitting the trailer. I suspect that the board was structurally weak 
> > due to large voids inside which may have filled with water. If you 
> > have a cold climate where you are the water would do a lot of damage 
> > as it
> freezes.
> > Tapping the board with something hard should tell you if there are 
> > other voids and if so, I would definitely fix those first.
> >
> > I had this problem with my rudder and centreboard. The fix that I 
> > used for the voids was fairly simple. I drilled holes wherever I 
> > suspected there might be a void. It is best to have more than one 
> > hole in each void so that when you eject epoxy into one hole the air 
> > can escape from the other. If you see any sign of moisture I would 
> > wait some time to allow the moisture to evaporate from inside the 
> > board before filling it
> with epoxy.
> >
> > I used a big syringe with a plastic 1/4" tip to pump unthickened 
> > epoxy into each hole until it came out the neighbouring holes. It is 
> > best to drill holes that fit the tip of the syringe tightly so you 
> > can build a bit of pressure to push the epoxy in. You will need to 
> > top it up several times as the epoxy finds its way down into the 
> > board. Once it won't take any more, let the epoxy set until it is no 
> > longer fluid and then flip the board over and do the same on the 
> > other side. When I did mine I was really surprised how much epoxy I 
> > was able to pump into the core. I am sure I injected more than a 
> > quart. I did the same with my centreboard housing and it took 3 GALLONS
to fill the voids.
> >
> > As for the damaged cavity, I would clean out the cavity, make sure 
> > it is dry, coat the cavity with epoxy and then and fill it in with 
> > layers of epoxy thickened with high-strength adhesive filler. Epoxy 
> > can generate a lot of heat as it cures so build the cavity in layers 
> > (about 1") but addg each layer as soon as it starts to cool. At this 
> > point the previous layer will stop being tacky but still soft enough 
> > to
> scratch it with your fingernail.
> > If you wait until it cures completely, you should grind a coarse 
> > surface on the old to provide for a mechanical bond.
> >
> > Using pins is unnecessary. Toothpicks would be useless. Properly 
> > thickened epoxy will keep its form without support. Make the batch 
> > to the consistency of peanut butter.
> >
> > Use fairing filler for the final few layers as it is MUCH easier to
sand.
> > Try to make the two sides of the board as similar as you can.
> >
> > I would also be tempted to cover it all with fibreglass as there may 
> > be fine crals where water could migrate. Finally, I would coat the 
> > whole rudder with at least four  coats of regular epoxy. You can 
> > apply the coats as soon as the epoxy will hold properly to the 
> > previous coat
> > -
> about 20 minutes.
> >
> > This is a bit of a nuisance but not difficult to do.
> >
> > Grahame
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile. R22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario Canada
> >
> >
> >
>
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--
Patrick Riley
Lakewood, CO
S/V Cleone
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