[Rhodes22-list] Motor Lift Switch

[Geoff Farrell]

My 2011 Motor Winch is Chicago Electric Power Tools Model 95912 12 volt
electric winch from Harbor Freight. Remote takes MN27 27A12V battery. Yours
may be different. Mine isn't available anymore. Geoff

On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 2:58 PM, John Waldhausen <waldjh1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know who makes the remote winch on a 2012 Rhodes. Mine has no
> manufacturer listed on it.
>
> John
> Bainbridge Island
>
> > On Nov 7, 2015, at 4:07 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > The one Bruce refers to, I believe, is the one Stan installs.  If not,
> it is quite similar.
> >
> > Bob in Stuart, FL
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Nov 7, 2015, at 4:15 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Ted,
> >>
> >> That's not the one I used.  Here's mine:
> >> http://www.gamainc.com/site/epage/130244_941.htm.
> >>
> >> As for wiring, there's a red and a white wire from the boat battery to a
> >> block (which is the receiver for the remote)  located on the port side
> of
> >> the lazarette near the winch and then wires from the block to the winch.
> >> Remove the ones from the block/controller that lead to the winch.  Add
> one
> >> wire from the red side of the block to the connector in the middle of
> the
> >> switch on the side that has a label, and wire the white side of the
> block to
> >> the other center pole on the switch.  Then run wires from the remaining
> two
> >> poles on the switch to the terminals on the winch.  It doesn't make any
> >> difference which of those wires to which terminal, but if after
> installing
> >> the switch in the lazarette bulkhead the motor goes down when you push
> the
> >> up side of the rocker, then simply swap those last two wires on the
> back of
> >> the switch.
> >>
> >> Alternatively, I think you could disconnect the wires from the remote
> >> controller, and connect them directly to the switch with some added
> wire,
> >> bypassing the remote controller entirely.
> >>
> >> When cutting a square hole to insert the switch, err on the side of too
> >> small and sand your way to the "right size."   The spec says the switch
> is
> >> .83" x 1.48" and I thought that was the size I cut.  Fortunately,
> whatever I
> >> cut was too small and I just kept enlarging it in increments until the
> >> switch snapped into place.  If you cut too large, the switch won't mount
> >> properly -- it's held in by tensioners on the side of the switch.
> >>
> >> In the meantime, put a float on the remote.  At least you'll have a
> chance
> >> if you lose it overboard before you get the switch installed.
> >>
> >> By the way, I don't know if you keep the remote controller hooked in the
> >> circuit what would happen if you tried to use the remote.  Maybe both
> the
> >> switch and the remote would work at your option, but then maybe neither
> >> would work.  Somebody who actually understands electricity might be
> able to
> >> advise on that.
> >>
> >> Hope that helps.  Good luck.
> >>
> >> Bruce
> >> s/v Tuxedo
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Motor-Lift-Switch-tp51213p51218.html
> >> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> >> __________________________________________________
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