[Rhodes22-list] Motor Lift Switch

[John Waldhausen]

Thanks Geoff. It appears mine isn't either. 

John Waldhausen

> On May 8, 2016, at 2:24 PM, Geoff Farrell <geoffreylfarrell at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> My 2011 Motor Winch is Chicago Electric Power Tools Model 95912 12 volt
> electric winch from Harbor Freight. Remote takes MN27 27A12V battery. Yours
> may be different. Mine isn't available anymore. Geoff
> 
>> On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 2:58 PM, John Waldhausen <waldjh1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone know who makes the remote winch on a 2012 Rhodes. Mine has no
>> manufacturer listed on it.
>> 
>> John
>> Bainbridge Island
>> 
>>>> On Nov 7, 2015, at 4:07 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> The one Bruce refers to, I believe, is the one Stan installs.  If not,
>> it is quite similar.
>>> 
>>> Bob in Stuart, FL
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>>> On Nov 7, 2015, at 4:15 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Ted,
>>>> 
>>>> That's not the one I used.  Here's mine:
>>>> http://www.gamainc.com/site/epage/130244_941.htm.
>>>> 
>>>> As for wiring, there's a red and a white wire from the boat battery to a
>>>> block (which is the receiver for the remote)  located on the port side
>> of
>>>> the lazarette near the winch and then wires from the block to the winch.
>>>> Remove the ones from the block/controller that lead to the winch.  Add
>> one
>>>> wire from the red side of the block to the connector in the middle of
>> the
>>>> switch on the side that has a label, and wire the white side of the
>> block to
>>>> the other center pole on the switch.  Then run wires from the remaining
>> two
>>>> poles on the switch to the terminals on the winch.  It doesn't make any
>>>> difference which of those wires to which terminal, but if after
>> installing
>>>> the switch in the lazarette bulkhead the motor goes down when you push
>> the
>>>> up side of the rocker, then simply swap those last two wires on the
>> back of
>>>> the switch.
>>>> 
>>>> Alternatively, I think you could disconnect the wires from the remote
>>>> controller, and connect them directly to the switch with some added
>> wire,
>>>> bypassing the remote controller entirely.
>>>> 
>>>> When cutting a square hole to insert the switch, err on the side of too
>>>> small and sand your way to the "right size."   The spec says the switch
>> is
>>>> .83" x 1.48" and I thought that was the size I cut.  Fortunately,
>> whatever I
>>>> cut was too small and I just kept enlarging it in increments until the
>>>> switch snapped into place.  If you cut too large, the switch won't mount
>>>> properly -- it's held in by tensioners on the side of the switch.
>>>> 
>>>> In the meantime, put a float on the remote.  At least you'll have a
>> chance
>>>> if you lose it overboard before you get the switch installed.
>>>> 
>>>> By the way, I don't know if you keep the remote controller hooked in the
>>>> circuit what would happen if you tried to use the remote.  Maybe both
>> the
>>>> switch and the remote would work at your option, but then maybe neither
>>>> would work.  Somebody who actually understands electricity might be
>> able to
>>>> advise on that.
>>>> 
>>>> Hope that helps.  Good luck.
>>>> 
>>>> Bruce
>>>> s/v Tuxedo
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> --
>>>> View this message in context:
>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Motor-Lift-Switch-tp51213p51218.html
>>>> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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