[Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck

[mweisner at ebsmed.com]

Graham & James,

I agree on removing the floatation foam in the bow.  At least you would have room to work.

After rebuilding my '81 R22 (replacing the cabin sole, interior structural members as well as the cockpit floor due to oil canning and delamination), I swore that I would NEVER do that much work on an old boat again ... until I purchased my '91 Rhodes.  The '91 had significant storm damage after being demasted and partially submerged in salt water for some time.  She had rolled to port and was held under by the dock lines.  Yes, I sold the '81 and started all over again on the new to me '91.  She sails beautifully and was worth the restoration effort.

The Rhodes 22 is virtually indestructible (with proper restoration) and we are totally bonkers.  The moral of the story is to buy a Rhodes 22 in relatively good condition and GO SAILING ... life is too short to repeat such mistakes.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 11:37 AM
To: 'James Nichols' <jfn302 at yahoo.com>; 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck

James:

Sounds like a good strategy that will have a number of advantages to my approach. With adequate core material properly bonded to the deck skin there should be no need for the liner. In fact, I found that with my boat the core and liner was not bonded anywhere making the liner of little structural use anyway. 

The hard part is finding a way to work in such a confined area. I had to do that to join and fair the liner at the seam and that was a pain even though it was where I had the most room. Because I had removed the main bulkhead I was able to place a strip of plywood to bridge the space between the V-birth and a chair in the main cabin and then use that as a bed to lay on. But that would not help you get into the bow. Just getting into the bow area to replace deck hardware nuts and to fiberglass the hull-deck joint was difficult. 

Turning the boat over would make it easier to work with but would not give you more headroom. Actually I did that for another boat restoration I did so flipping the boat is quite feasible. I built a big crate for the boat that held it steady while I then turned the boat using come along winches and foam blocks to cushion the fall once the boat passed the balance point. I have pictures if you are interested.

I wonder if it wouldn't be more feasible to remove (and later replace) the flotation in the bow of the boat? You might then use some plywood for a platform to work from. Even a few inches would make a big difference. I think this would be the approach I would take if I were to lose my mind and do it again.

Good luck. Let us  know how it works out.


Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario