[Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues

Thu Nov 9 21:30:25 EST 2023

I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the chainplate
was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really could
not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in from
the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin liner.
After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2" screw
which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
solid.

My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is to
go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so you
can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much less
destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from above.
By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the core
is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the liner
and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what the
deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.

I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was originally
installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen and
probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy mix
and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area of
solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders - I
can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows the
composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need the
upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with the
shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.

I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides but
decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there was no
place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of the
cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you all
this so you won't be too confused by the pictures

So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider this
use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.

Graham Stewart
Agile 76

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this pulls
> apart?  ;)
>
> Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the plates
> would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not sure
> how much I want to get into this kind of project.
>
> Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> to this kind of project.
>
> Matt W
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15 AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> repair,
> > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> >
> > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> >
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > adequate way.
> > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > rotted
> > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> the
> > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> > > backing plate inside.
> > >
> > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away
> > the
> > > cabintop.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > inside.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello everyone,
> > >>
> > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > made
> > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > going
> > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water
> > out
> > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > >>
> > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > >> Matt Wilson
> > >> Hornblower II
> > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
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