[Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question

[Bob Garrant]

Roger
I bought my Rhodes in 2017 and it stayed in the water for two seasons
before I got a trailer and hauled it out for the winter. Since then I’ve
hauled it out at the end of every season.
I wish I had asked the haul out question back then.
I’ve always been guessing about how to get it seated against the bow stop.
The explanation was exactly what I needed
Thanks very much

Bob
s/v Sail la Vie


On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 12:07 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
> 12” of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
> trailer.
>
> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>
> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
> trailer.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55 AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> > knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> > perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> > the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
> > charge.
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake, MN
>