[Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak

[ROGER PIHLAJA]

Hi Peter,
I may be in the minority; but, I used Dow Corning clear RTV silicone aquarium sealant on the centerboard cap, on both sides of the gasket.  The job is done so infrequently that silicone removal is a mote point.  I’ve only done it once since 1987.   I like the ability of the silicone to conform to scratches or other irregularities plus it can flex with the hull and not leak.  My centerboard cap has thru bolts vs wood screws.  Use the biggest washers that will fit on top and bottom (fender washers if there is room) to spread the load.  I used Nyloc lock nuts.  Torque the bolts in criss cross pattern as if you were torqueing down a cylinder head.  Don’t over torque the the bolts.  When the Silicone RTV is evenly squeezed out all around the joint, that’s tight enough.  Let the silicone cure for 24 hours prior to launching.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 18, 2024, at 11:30 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>     I got my boat in the water today and am very happy to report that the 3/16" line I'm using is working fine and my centerboard now deploys properly.  I do not find the line hard to manage though I suspect that 1/4" might be better.   I am extremely unhappy to report the steady drip I'm getting from the centerboard cap.  I tried to torque the screws down, but that didn't solve (or help) the problem.  Therefore I took the boat out of the water and expect to remove the centerboard cap and do a better job cleaning the mating surfaces before reassembling.  Question for anyone who has removed the centerboard cap:  did you use any sort of caulking or sealant when reassembling the cap?Were the screws sufficient to create a tight seal?
> Thanks,     Peter